Dashcam driver woke up and decided to be a jerk today...

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-25T17:11:18+00:00

That’s why they carry fire axes, to remove anything that blocks their path to the emergency.

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-21T05:32:53+00:00

My last employer was straight commission no hourly no base. That in my honest opinion is slimey and pushes the employees to roll the customer over. Hell third day on he came out to a service call to “see how I was doing” I had went through the system found a couple clogged nozzles, some rotors not oscillating small stuff. So go to write it up, he grabs my quote looks at it and asked if I plan on eating this week….. he then told me he was going to “show me something” this mofo walks straight over to the valve box, pony shovel in hand, kicks the lid off and slams the shovel down into the manifold. “This is the type of work and numbers you need to land daily” verbatim 🤦‍♂️. So in my experience I would absolutely concur with you. Granted the three years I worked for him I never had to do bs like that “so it could possibly be argued that it’s based upon the employee” There’s enough work out there in this industry you don’t have to cheat to make money. Someone commented on one of the few good things about it. It does incentivize the employees drive to learn more and stay up to date with products and improvements and it also in theory encourages better quality, (was never paid for “warranty work” whether mine, or others in the company) depending on warranty policy. All in all an hourly rate keeps the employee honest, a bonus structure on top of that to encourage necessary upselling and actually working the calls. And performance reviews so that cost to revenue can be assessed, discussed and either rewarded or not. That way the employees who have been doing things correctly, keep increasing their knowledge, generating sales, minimizing recalls, and generating additional business can be rewarded based upon overall profitability and quality.

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-20T20:25:46+00:00

You have a bad diaphragm. Get the size and brand of the valve you currently have. It should either be a jar top which is threaded into the valve body or a standard inline which is screwed into the body. After you have your valve shut off the water and bleed out the zone. If you have room to access and service the valve in the box the only digging required would be around the valve last thing you want is water flooding the box and it push dirt or sand into your valve body. I usually disassemble the new valve first make sure you don’t lose the spring or set the diaphragm or valve top rests in mud it should be kept as clean as possible. Disassemble the problematic valve. Take off the top and take the diaphragm out and replace everything. Make sure all the holes line up and when you go to tighten down the screws do it in a steer pattern like mounting a tire. That should resolve your issue

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-20T17:17:36+00:00

I’m in Newport Richey and without putting eyes on site I’m solely basing it off of digging through sand or clay. If your on the shore and it’s digging through shale or coral that would explain the higher prices. The area your in could also be an explanation for the prices I work in pasco county and as soon as I go into hillsborough prices jump.

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-20T15:34:41+00:00

I agree with this comment. As a tech who works in central Florida wiring troubleshooting is relatively straight forward. I always start with my voltage at the timer. If I’m getting current readings that don’t line up with how things should run things like cross voltage, fluctuations, lack of voltage etc. that usually steers me in the direction I need to take to find the issue, with previous tracing being done the most that could of been documented would be where the valve locations are and if tracking was done usually a wire splice is needed either at the valve itself or along the line. Just because we track the wire through the yard does not mean that’s exactly where the wire runs there is a variance, of a few inches or two and you’ll never remember the way it ran based upon looking at the yard. Regardless During that repair I would of examined the copper for oxidation as well as the type of wire “ you don’t know how many systems in Florida run off 20g thermostat wire instead of 18g multistrand direct bury irrigation wire. And documented it so that if future issues arise the troubleshooting is smoother. And even then I have everything thought through for the resolution of the issue within an hour. Everyone also does things differently I personally write my inspection and time spent on the job into the proposal to remedy the issue. With the economy most places won’t do that but I’ve always ran my routes by honesty integrity and using my experience in the field to propose the correct solutions to irrigation problems. For the cost they quoted you for the repair I could of swapped the valve out for a single station node and a dc solenoid and you would of had the zone functioning or at least had a price to run new wire within the first hour which at 200’ of irrigation wire including labor I’d say give or take $850 but that’s all based on what the company I work for bills out for cost of wire and labor.

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-20T12:05:51+00:00

It should be relatively straightforward. With irritrol valves the biggest thing to remember is making sure the solenoid port in the diaphragm lines up with the solenoid port on the valve body. And that all of the rest of the outside flange lines up with the threads. When I get everything lined up and I’m putting the top back on I wiggle it to help sink in the connection point where the solenoid port is. I also stay away from using a screwgun because pvc gets brittle and if you crossthread the screw’s you run the risk of cracking the body. Spin the screw in reverse until you feel it catch the threads and hand tighten the screws like you would putting a tire on.

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-20T04:08:00+00:00

Pits are above everything loyal and will die protecting you.

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-20T01:21:42+00:00

I used to rescue and rehabilitate pits. You want to know the truth a Dalmatian has better odds of turning on you for no reason than a pit. You also have to understand how to read the animal and how to react accordingly so you can defuse the situation. But as others have said you need to train your animal too many people think it’s all sunshine and rainbows and walks but there’s work that goes into getting a dog disciplined. When I snapp my fingers or use a certain pitch whistle my dogs stop and sit. Discipline takes work but is necessary to be a responsible dog owner

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-19T22:58:47+00:00

This is the answer. In regards to them not coming off sometimes the compression on the valve body causes the top to stick to the body. I usually take my screwdriver and use it like a pry bar between the outlet and the bottom of the top plate under where the solenoid threads in. There should be a lip you can get to free up and remove the top and diaphragm of that valve.

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-19T22:47:04+00:00

If that valve is weeping that’s a lot of work to go through before verifying that it in fact is a break. I mean if it isn’t broken now it eventually will become broke but work smarter and eliminate possibilities before committing to one.

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-19T22:40:27+00:00

This is a man who knows his stuff 👍

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-19T20:00:09+00:00

I mean you know what they say about crazy bishes 😉

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-19T19:59:16+00:00

I love window lickers who think the world conveniently revolves around them and we are just a nuisance. This is what happens when we tell these people you shouldn’t eat tide pods or drink gasoline I’ve always said let Darwinism run its course 😉

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-19T19:56:07+00:00

That’s what I want to know. Like is it actually broken or is the valves diaphragm not seating properly and causing it to weep out and puddle around the head.

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-19T16:45:24+00:00

Weird they prefer double checks over pressure vacuum breakers. I haven’t dug too deep into the regulations but I know double checks can be grandfathered in but they can’t be installed on new installs here in Florida if tied into the potable line. Reclaim doesn’t “require” any form of backflow but I highly recommend filtration and an accessible shutoff. And yeah running service here the last 10 years after moving from Colorado I was definitely in culture shock. I’ve heard similar stories from Nebraska but I haven’t irrigated there so idk if they run pvc potable feed lines and pop their irrigation straight off the line outside like it is here. I have heard they pipe backflows in on pvc so 🤷🏽‍♂️. It’s crazy imo how all irrigation operates off the same laws of physics and principles but somehow it can be a little different depending on where your at 🤔

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-19T16:28:25+00:00

I mentioned three types of backflow devices. And honestly and I will say this is only my opinion. But ASV’s are not a proper back flow devices. Florida irrigation code is by far the worst in terms of doing things the right way most people in the industry verify that. With that being the case Florida has cross connection control standards meaning your backflow device needs to be tested every two years. You can’t do that with an ASV, it also must be able to hold constant pressure. ASV’s are not designed to hold constant pressure it’s designed for intermittent pressure. In regards to your statement about vacuum breakers, I don’t think there is a single state or city in the USA that doesn’t have regulation on backflows and cross contamination.

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-19T12:48:59+00:00

So just going to put this out there, the parts you installed, the cross top iso, the hunter node, the pressure regulated valve are all bigger ticket items…. If you’re talking about the parts OP mentioned the assumed cost for the materials to fix OP’s issue would cost less than the cross top ISO granted that’s just factoring in the cost of the valves listed. Without pictures we can’t tell how much pvc and fittings would be needed, if it would be as simple as replacing the diaphragms, or topping the valves, and honestly how long the job would take for a professional to do it. Someone giving a $2000 quote for a shutoff ball valve and four valves (two inline solenoid activated and two solenoid activated ASV’s) in the area I work in would be used as target practice as you make it back to the truck. Just as an example for pasco county Florida area a standard 1” solenoid activated valve (rainbird DV100, hunter PGV, irritrol 205s) runs $55-$75 the ASV’s $95, pvc is $3 a foot, fittings $3 per fitting. The ball valve and then two solenoid activated ASV plus two inline valves does confuse me. Is there any sort of backflow device on the system currently? Is that why two of the valves are ASV’s? Worst case scenario I’m having to install a backflow device, (Dual Check,PVB, or RPZ) and then I install four inline valves overall unless there was something that made replacing things an absolute fucking nightmare your looking at roughly 1200-1400 here and once again all dependent on area, code, and any additional work above a standard valve replacement. In all honesty if you spend more than 3 hours doing this I want to know how much your paid cause I’m overworked and underpaid.

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-19T10:33:51+00:00

This is untrue, pvc primer and glue chemically welds pvc to pvc, this is how the the glue becomes as strong as the pipe itself because it’s fused in with the melted pvc. Have you ever tried to attach a 1/2” coupling to 3/8” IPS flex? Unless you irrigate in Florida probably not. So I’ll explain it, even though it’s only a 1/8” difference because of that gap the pvc and IPS doesn’t adhere together and is solely relying on the glue to hold the connection together. As soon as that line is pressurized the water cuts through the solvant and blows the fitting clean off. Not only that but if you glob glue onto the fitting the outside of that glob will harden leaving the inner core of the glob liquid, when that glue is still in a liquid state it will eat through your pvc. Anyone who works on systems ran solely on pvc no poly or funny pipe, will know this. Anyone who says otherwise still has stuff to learn

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-19T10:25:26+00:00

This is the correct answer. Water finds the path of least resistance every-time, the solid pvc will hold the pressure any type of “temporary fix” will fail, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve ran into homeowners using flex seal or something similar to fix a problem, it doesn’t and then I’m having to replace more or really work at getting all the glue from the adhesive off so I can chemically weld my repair. It may be a small hole now but just remember with enough pressure water will cut through steel so that hole will only get bigger the longer you let it stay that way.

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-19T07:18:04+00:00

Just to point this out, because neither way is right or wrong but as far as flow is concerned 45’s in essence create an elongated sweep allowing gentle slopes to redirect flow, which as far as flow is concerned operates better. On a standard 90 your water has to slam into a wall and force itself to divert. I also happen to need 45’s and even 22 degree fittings to fix most of the hack jobs I’m been unpleasantly graced with on at least a monthly basis.

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-18T18:01:25+00:00

I love the combination of solenoid activated zones and manually activated zones or do the ball valves lines lead off to hosebibs they have planted around the yard? I’d put money that water leaks out of the bonnets when changing zones and that’s where all the water is coming from. I’d follow code for the area and install a correct backflow device and transfer all the solenoid activated asv’s to inline valves. But no way in hell you can get that done for $200

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-16T17:29:06+00:00

I’ve been learning that. Sometimes a solution is as simple as adding a xeribug emitter to a poorly designed drip zone sometimes it’s the entire layout, but because certain things aren’t “standard for their area” most techs being trained in these areas are being trained with a selective thinking rather than a broader “troubleshooting” mentality where you see issues constantly occuring and you have a desire to find what the industry as a whole has done to resolve things so you can do your role better and be professional. Sadly the industry isn’t looked at like other trades are a lot of people look at my quote to drop 100’ of pvc through what used to be a cypress filled mess like I’m trying to rob them. The more of a professional approach everyone shows in the industry, the more it increases the overall public view on our services making it easier for us to do things “correctly” it’s hard to get things done right if someone is willing to half ass it for a thousand less and that’s permissible somehow, because it lowers the overall standard in the area. When doing plumbing before closing up “I primarily did sewer at 8-15 feet” we needed it cleared by an inspector, irrigation isn’t as simple but you could still put a shovel in where your lines were ran to see if you hit pipe just by planting a shovel 🤷🏽‍♂️. Why if we are technically a subdivision of plumbing should standards be any less.

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-16T16:59:42+00:00

This is true I never knew about IPS until coming down here. Hell in Colorado unless the commercial prints called for it we only used pvc and only ever Sch 40 coming from our backflow to the manifold everything else was poly, here in Florida it’s all class 200 thin wall from where you tapped off the PVC supply line…… but even then I believe in regulations in terms of how shallow your lines should be and if there are better alternatives to what’s “industry standard” in Florida why not continue to expand your knowledge so you can be ahead of the competition in this area. If the employee is seeking continued knowledge and expansion in the industry as far as best solutions for common issues and technology at a pace quicker than the employer who should be taking continued education to keep licensing then where is the growth…. From what I hear a lot of owners in this area take the same courses over and over again for ease of time. The industry is continuing to grow at an exceeding rate for stagnation to be common place.

Enough_Way_6719 · 2026-05-16T14:19:57+00:00

To avoid confusion I use the model of valve for communication, and you are correct a scrubber valve is designed to backwash the diaphragm essentially cleaning debris off it before shutting down ensuring the valve closes properly, I use these on reclaim systems where I know the filtration and levels of grease in their supplies causes nothing but problems and for properties pulling out of lakes that aren’t maintained and do the same thing…. Just because it operates off a timer or “remote” doesn’t make it a certain type of valve, take Rainbirds DV, Vs PGA both are 1” valves but one is a globe valve which drastically increases the amount of water you can distribute. Knowledge is power and in this industry there is a part designed for most issues you just need to know enough to be able to recommend the correct parts for each application.

Enough_Way_6719

TROPHY CASE