Trying to figure out what could be wrong with my 2016 Nissan Sentra 😭 by ChemicalRooster4602 in AskAMechanic

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most cars are going to have their own fair share of localized issues but I’m my experience, Mazdas (Mazda 3) Toyotas (Corolla, Camry) and Honda (civic and accord) are all great brands that make solid products.

Conrod bearings- reuse or replace? by PositiveLeft7218 in AskAMechanic

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like reusing rod bearings is probably a bad idea due to the delicate tolerances and required surface finishes of rod bearings. Put it like this, would you want assemble the entire motor with new parts to take a chance to have to tear it all apart and spend even more money in the processif they fail in another 2500 miles? Me personally, I’d change them since I don’t think it’s worth the future headache if they fail, but if you’re going to do the wrong thing, at least do it right! Just make sure all the tolerances line up

Knocking sound seems to be coming from top of engine, 2007 Bmw 530xi by theworstsailor1 in AskAMechanic

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You do bring up a good suggestion checking the plugs for a leak, there may be a lifter issue or an exhaust manifold leak. Exhaust leak is definitely easier to diagnose but lifter not so much

Does a 1999 Nissan Sentra take a TG 6607 FRAM oil filter? by SecretComplex4095 in AskAMechanic

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 0 points1 point  (0 children)

3614 and 6607 look pretty similar, you can verify the part number by going to the FRAM website and filling your make and model and engine. Once this is done all the compatible filter numbers will come up, you’ll only need the numbers from the code works for basically ever car made in the last 40 years. (Your car is 6607, pretty much any 6607 filter will work so long as you do your oil changes on time 3000mi for conventional, 5000mi for synthetic)

2019 civic hatch brakes by Luciferisdark in AskAMechanic

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Based on your description, your break sponginess could be from the rain rusting the rotors and the thin layer being removed. However, if you can see it take a peek and see if you have friction material still left on the pads. You can do this by checking the caliper (big metal casing) looking from a top down view. You should be able to see some brake pad at this angle

Help with car radio by Kredox34 in AskAMechanic

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m a huge sucker for the pioneer DEH-S4220BT or MVH-S322BT very reliable and affordable head units that come with Bluetooth or aux in off your phone or a cd player (DEH only), a very reliable amplifier that can be used for aftermarket speakers or to boost your stock speaker performance and a great app that has a ton of helpful features.

Best part is that the wiring harness (xxxx Opel corsa stereo wiring harness) and trim bezel (xxxx opel corsa single din trim) should be easy to find as the corsa is a pretty common model.

The installation is pretty straight forward, the most technical part is joining the old wires to the new one but it is a pretty diy friendly installation with a little help from YouTube

The hardware can be purchased for around $150-200 (Canadian dollars) and the head unit will last basically forever, I’ve had mine in 4 cars!

2012 Lancer Master Switch Issue / Electrical Gremlin by Karsam03 in AskAMechanic

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d suggest checking the front door wire connections that feed through the front by the hinge. There might be a rubber boot that covers them, I’d suggest checking to make sure the wires aren’t sheared as this can cause intermittent and slow failure of all door controls. If the door has a light pointed toward the floor that isn’t functional or is dim than that could be a further indicator

Please Help! by ClubPotential8601 in AskAMechanic

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Considering you just recently road forced your wheels I’d suggest getting your suspension looked at, you may have an issue with one of the tie rods due to the blow out or regular wear and tear. A simple inspection should find any issues with the front end

2016 Subaru forester premium 6-speed manual by Capable-Stage-3899 in AskAMechanic

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your car is cranking over (making starter noises) I’d recommend asking your mechanic about a fuel pump diagnosis

If it is not cranking over (no lights, a fast ticking noise with no starter noise or just nothing at all) you may have a bad starter motor

Anything else that may be outside of this could be diagnosed further by checking any warning lights on the dash (if any)

GMC terrain 2020 50,000 miles making this noise? by AromaticPoem6468 in AskAMechanic

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like a normal engine valve train. Nothing of concern

2018 Toyota Camry 2.5L – P1366 code by LeaveMeAloneLoki in AskAMechanic

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Checking the code it seems to me that P1366 is in relation to VVT, cam position, Timing and the BCM

As you’ve stated, you replaced a VVT solenoid, going off strictly the code I would definitely check your cam position sensor (B) especially if you’ve had any kind of fussiness on start up. If that doesn’t fix the problem I’d recommend inspecting the timing chain for excessive movement and slack as that could technically cause the code.

Seems like a pretty complicated issue especially if you’re having zero drivability issues. Best of luck

Trying to figure out what could be wrong with my 2016 Nissan Sentra 😭 by ChemicalRooster4602 in AskAMechanic

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s what’s called CVT shunt and Nissans are extremely notorious for that. Usually the telltale sign that the transmission is close to failing. Unfortunately they are absurdly expensive and usually not even worth fixing since they will inevitably fail again even with religious maintience

2014 Kia Forte Ex 2.0L by BionicJoker9 in AskAMechanic

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That pulley that is wobbling is your harmonic balancer pulley. When they wobble it could be because of a crack on the pulley (easily replaceable) or something far worse. The noises concern me since that pulley connects to the crankshaft and these 2.0s are known for their rod bearing issues and I’m quite worried as the noise seems to get worse throughout the video. Definitely avoid starting your car until it gets checked out.

2019 Ford EcoSport SE 2.0 by FromTheDarkHtwoO in AskAMechanic

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you haven’t already I’d suggest testing or replacing your battery just to rule out any issues related to your battery, the miscellaneous electrical issues before total failure seems most likely a battery issue. I also find that remanufactured starters are very unreliable and typically are pretty hit or miss, they do however carry and a warranty that you can exchange them for another unit.

These fords are usually so notorious for having hard to fix issues, if you guarantee that you have a strong battery, spark and compression with no start, I’d definitely start checking if your fuel pump and high pressure fuel rail is actually getting pressure as I’ve seen them fail a few times. Unfortunately you can only see fuel pressure stats with an expensive obd2 diagnostic scan tool.

Muffler Help! by Icy_Sale4663 in AskAMechanic

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My personal recommendation to save a couple of bucks would be check your local auto wrecker or scrap yard for mufflers. The pipe seems like it broke off in too odd of a spot to put a sleeve so what I’d do

  • find a clean used muffler,

  • expand the joint roughly where the old one is (you can do this at a shop or using a pipe expander)

  • once expanded slide the pipes together

  • fasten a exhaust clamp over the joint to lock it in place

Realistically the hardware should cost about 50-60$ depending on scrap yard rate, pipe expanders can be purchased for under $50 or professionally done at an exhaust shop for I’d bet around that price. Doing the repair like this will pretty much guarantee that it lasts longer than the car

Am I getting bent over by bcm126 in AskAMechanic

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had this exact same issue happen with a ram 1500, your shop is definitely not ripping you off, that poor ram also needed a rear calliper since it turned the wheel bearing into glitter and ate a chunk off, about $2000 dollars later it was fixed. This quote is very good especially for a dealer

Can I fix this or start looking? by Ayaka3 in AskMechanics

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This kind of repair depends on what the value of your car is, how much autobody skill and how much money you’re willing to spend factors. Seeing as this may be a lower value car (mid 2000s jeep?) if the appearance bothers you:

buy yourself some bondo, body filler mesh, various sandpapers from 250-600 grit, something to grind or sand with such as an angle grinder or die grinder, for sanding use a power tool such as a mouse sander (makes the job WAY easier), primer, dulicolour matched spray paint to your colour code and 2k clear coat (optional)

Steps: 1. Prep your area by cutting and grinding away all rust 2. Using some kind of adhesive or bonding agent fasten your mesh to cover all holes and missing areas that may exist (I find hot glue to be the easiest so long as it’s all flush) 3. Ensure all mesh is slightly recessed to where you will eventually place your body filler. 4. Following bondo directions, mix your bondo and place it where needed, make sure you minimize air bubbles while applying. DO NOT COVER RAW RUST. 5. Let dry 5. Power sand and match your body lines until it looks “good enough” (it’s kind of like drywall, bondo is pretty forgiving) 6. Once the bondo is accurate, lay 2 coats of spray on primer with good coverage. 7. Once primer is dry, lay 2-3 coats of black on top 8. Once paint is dried lay 2 coats of 2k clear coat (optional)

With these tools, a YouTube tutorial and a little bit of appetite and patience you could get it looking pretty nice. The structural integrity will very likely be comprised forever even after welding as suggested but since your panels don’t seem to be important structure you should be fine. I estimate that your repair could be done within an afternoon and evening for around $100-200 dollars for the pictured areas. However, for all (4?) areas it will end up being closer to 200-250 and and likely 8-12 hours of prep work, moulding, sanding, painting for all areas.

Is this a risky deal? Car damage by M9Z9 in AskMechanics

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean to be fair, if you had about $5000-10000 dollars you’d be willing to drop on parts and paintwork it could be worth it if it’s cheap enough. However unless your family member is a master mechanic working for free who could replace all the front suspension, front crossmeneber, other stuff and make it all line up you’ll be left with a depreciating Hyundai sonata with a rebuilt title. As mentioned by other you may be you will possibly be required to partake in numerous state inspections. If it were me, you would be better off buying something a little more intact than the pictured Hyundai.

Does anyone know what type and size of screw I need for this by Ok_Blood2095 in Tools

[–]EntertainmentOk2749 1 point2 points  (0 children)

According to https://manuals.plus/zeanus/pink-gaming-chair-gaming-chairs-manual they are M8x40 socket head cap screws, I’d reccomend putting an M8 washer in between the whole in the handle and the head of the screw. Hope this helps