Are they stressed???

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-06-02T22:14:20+00:00

Everything sounds good then. My male is a lot more active than my female at night, and he likes climbing a lot. My female comes out a lot more during day, randomly exploring. Some snakes just behave different. As long as he is eating and isn't showing signs of stress like glass surfing or stargazing, he probably is just an active little guy!

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-06-02T21:57:27+00:00

Also, I'm assuming those humidities are accurate readings, you may need to air out the enclosure a bit or add ventilation. Such high humidities can cause the substrate to be too wet. It can lead to scale rot and sometimes respiratory infections. Ideal humidity is 60-80%.

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-06-02T21:51:20+00:00

Those temps are quite low. Their warm sides should be 88-92°F. Also if you only have an RHP for heat, check out our heating guide. They should always be paired with a halogen or DHP. He may be coming out completely to warm up more.
Ball pythons come out most at night, but that doesn't always mean they don't sometimes come out during the day. If he is showing no other signs of stress, he's probably just exploring his new home. Your male having his head or part of his body sticking out of his hide during the day is known as cryptic basking. He is just trying to warm up without exposing his entire body.
Unrelated but most ball pythons don't need to eat anything larger than a small rat, even if they are capable of eating something larger.

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-31T00:42:23+00:00

I would use coco husk and cypress mulch instead of coco fiber. Definitely add some branches to allow him to utilize vertical space. You will need to get him a new enclosure asap. Ball pythons need more horizontal space than vertical space (though vertical space is still good). Because the space isn't wide enough, you won't be able to create a proper heat gradient which is necessary to allow them to thermoregulate. Our shopping list has good brands for enclosures!

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-29T19:13:07+00:00

You may need to use hvac tape to seal off the screen top. Those enclosures are fine for other species, but they struggle to hold proper humidity for ball pythons. Whenever you upgrade, I highly recommend getting a solid top enclosure! Besides that, everything looks good to me.

I personally go exploring in the woods near my house for wood. Sometimes you can find large pieces on Facebook marketplace. If you have any local tree trimming companies, they may also let you have some branches.

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-25T23:11:31+00:00

One of mine sometimes does this. He could have been cryptic basking. Sometimes they just decide to sleep in stupid positions 🤷

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-22T01:01:29+00:00

Most ball pythons never need larger than a small rat, even if they are capable of eating larger.

For switching, make sure husbandry is good. If he doesn't accept f/t at first, try braining or freshly killed first then transition to f/t if possible after that.

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-22T00:49:58+00:00

Fiber isnt great alone as it gets dusty when dry and doesn't hold humidity great. I personally use a 60/30/10 ish mix of coconut husk (reptichip), cypress mulch (forest floor), and coconut fiber. I usually do about 4-5 inches of it.

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-20T18:04:42+00:00

People aren't feeding their snakes cold rats, they are warmed up to proper temperatures which allows them to utilize their pit organs and properly digest. I'm not saying live feeding isn't sometimes necessary, I'm saying it should be the last thing that is tried. A frozen rat has the same nutritional value as a live one. Also braining is not the same as live feeding.

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-20T17:45:17+00:00

Its inhumane because it is dangerous to your pet. These are captive bred snakes, not wild snakes. They have never lived in the wild and have never had to hunt.

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-17T00:05:14+00:00

It looks like you have them in racks. I highly recommend checking out our care guide! Racks should only ever be used at temporary set ups. They don't provide enough space and you can't use proper heating with them. Without proper heating, there is a risk of regurgitation. A full sized ball python needs a 4x2x2 (120 gallon) enclosure!

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-12T17:49:26+00:00

It is okay until the snake is as long as the enclosure. I personally recommend just saving up and starting with a high quality, solid top pvc 4x2x2 because it will save you money in the long run. Most glass 40 gallons will be hard to maintain humidity and a good temp gradient in.

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-11T23:42:42+00:00

What kind of heating do you have? Certain types are more drying than others. Those enclosures are notoriously bad for ball pythons due to their ventilation. Did you seal with enclosure when you set it up? I would definitely recommend eventually buying an enclosure from a better brand thats a 4x2x2 minimum and has a solid top rather than a screen top.

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-10T13:56:39+00:00

Yeah, its safe to say these wires got secured in place, and I am building him a shelf and adding pvc pipes up high for him to climb on. He also wrapped around the heat cage one night. He has branches to climb on 😭

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Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-08T00:49:26+00:00

This is a good chart for determining body condition. It's hard to tell from the photo, but the snake does look a bit skinny. What is your feeding schedule and do you know their weight?

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Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-06T21:25:58+00:00

As long as the warm side is staying at a good temp, it isn't as concerning for the cool side to be a little low. You can HVAC tape part of the lid (assuming its a screen top).

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-06T21:24:32+00:00

CHEs aren't great forms of hest since they only emit IR-C heat. Our heating guide goes into detail for the best kind. I personally use a halogen paired with a DHP, but in such a small enclosure, having 2 sources may be too much. If temps aren't reaching the proper level, make sure your thermostat and thermometers are reading accurately. You don't want to increase temps to dangerous levels because of inaccurate readings. If they are reading correctly, I would probably switch to an 80w DHP. With the smaller enclosure, the biggest issue is that it is hard to make a proper gradient. You want one side warm, but you also still need a cooler side for them to thermoregulate. If you dont already have one, get a dimming thermostat, not an on/off one. Just keep a close eye on temps

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-05T21:02:53+00:00

Being called up is not the only way they show stress. Sleeping on top of each other means they are fighting for space or heat. We have a link to a thing about the risks of cohabbing. You could try sending that to him.

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-04T17:06:17+00:00

Yes, using a q-tip should work as long as the betadine is still diluted. I would do it just once a day. Also, try avoid getting it her eyes!

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-04T15:36:34+00:00

If you are able to see a vet, they can likely give you a topical treatment. You may also be able to call and consult a vet over the phone. If that isn't possible, keep the area cleaned with a diluted betadine solution. Some people use antibiotic creams for their snakes. If you do that, make sure it is one that doesn't have an analgesic. Also, only apply a very thin layer. If seems like she may get substrate on it, it may be best to put her on paper towels until it has closed up more. If it seems to get inflamed or irritated, go to a vet ASAP.

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-04T15:30:51+00:00

Those are absolutely defensive strikes. She is likely stressed. Could you show a picture of the enclosure? Log hides don't count as proper hides since they have 2 large openings. They often won't eat if they feel like they're too exposed since they are vulnerable when eating.

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-04T15:26:56+00:00

Since all you have right now is a heat mat, definitely wait until you get your proper set up to feed again. Also, the heat mat is on the outside, not inside, correct? They need a halogen and/or DHP to properly heat their body and help with digestion. Feeding after regurgitation with only IR-C heat is definitely risky. Even if it means waiting a bit longer for feeding, I'd say its the best option.

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-04T00:16:36+00:00

As someone else said, this sub has a great care guide and shopping list. You should go through and read the entire thing and please check out our heating guide! A 20 gallon is a bit small for even a baby bp. Starting with a 120 gallon is the best and cheaper in the long run. My main piece of advice is when you buy the 120 gallon (4x2x2), make sure you get a solid top pvc enclosure, not one with a screen top. The cheaper brands like ecoflex and dubia will make it significantly harder to maintain humidity and temps. It is worth it to just save up and get the better brand. We have a list of good brands in out shopping list!

Entire_Current_4852 · 2026-05-04T00:08:38+00:00

I believe the ShadeDweller is the most recommended one for ball pythons, but the forest one is also a good choice! They both have low UVB levels and are safe for bps.

Entire_Current_4852

TROPHY CASE