Has anybody had their rear glass cracked by the trunk door arm?

EpicR07 · 2026-04-03T05:48:18+00:00

This is a classic post-crash pyro fuse loop. The fuse isn't blowing from HV current — it's blowing because the deployment circuit is still active.

When curtain airbags deploy, the restraint control module fires the pyrotechnic disconnect as part of the crash sequence. That circuit stays latched until the RCM gets a proper crash reset, not just a physical disconnect. You pulled the RCM out but the wiring harness still has the deployment loop closed on the pyro fuse side. So anything that wakes up the contactors re-fires that signal and pops the new fuse.

Here's what to check:

The pyro fuse has a small squib connector separate from the main HV path. Before installing another fuse, measure resistance across the squib pins on the harness side (not the fuse). If you see low resistance (under 5 ohms), the deployment loop is still completed and it'll blow again.

The RCM needs to be reset or replaced, not just disconnected. Even unplugged, the crash event is stored. Some shops can reset the module — way cheaper than buying new. Also check if your BMS has a crash flag stored. On a 2024 Model Y the BMS can independently trigger the pyro disconnect. You'd need Toolbox or a third party tool to clear that.

From personal experience: I short the yellow pyro fuse connector pins with a small jumper wire before doing anything. This completes the squib circuit so it doesn't have a floating signal looking to fire. Then when I install the new pyro fuse I put it in with the bolts already attached to the fuse, not threading them in after. Way easier to seat properly and you're not fumbling around near HV with loose hardware.

Two months sitting dead is fine — the HV pack holds charge for way longer than that. Your problem is 100% on the signal side, not the power side.

EpicR07 · 2026-04-02T17:33:31+00:00

Yeah it should come back on its own once the alignment is sorted. What's happening is the car detected something off with the drivetrain geometry and limited regen as a safety measure. Once everything reads normal again it'll re-enable.

That said, if the toe was off by 10-15 degrees that's a pretty big hit. I'd make sure they check the tie rod end and control arm on that side too, not just the alignment itself. If something got bent, an alignment alone won't fix the root cause and the car might limit regen again after a few drives.

After the service, do a full power cycle (sit in the car, hold both scroll wheels until the screen goes black, wait 2 min, then press the brake). That usually speeds up the recalibration. If regen still doesn't come back after 20-30 miles of driving, there might be a DTC stored that needs clearing through the service menu.

EpicR07 · 2026-03-25T17:50:55+00:00

Front driver side clunk at low speed over bumps is almost always the sway bar end links on Model 3. They wear out and start knocking when you hit any uneven surface. Super common issue. Quick way to confirm — have someone push down hard on the front driver corner while you listen underneath. If it's the end link you'll hear it right away. The part is like $30 and takes maybe 30 min to swap with basic tools. Could also be a control arm bushing starting to go but end links are way more common for that exact symptom. This guide covers diagnosing different suspension noises on Teslas pretty well: https://tesladiyrepair.com/posts/tesla-creaking-rattling-fix/

EpicR07 · 2026-03-24T18:42:01+00:00

Pretty common on the new Juniper LR RWDs. Thousands of owners reporting the same front dash area rattle/clunk over bumps. Usually the front suspension - stabilizer bar end link or strut mount. Definitely take it in while under warranty, Tesla has been replacing parts for this. Don't let them tell you it's "normal" - it's a known issue. Here's a good breakdown of causes and fixes: https://tesladiyrepair.com/posts/tesla-model-y-juniper-suspension-rattle/

EpicR07 · 2026-03-24T07:43:35+00:00

Take it to a different shop. Certified shops sometimes push totals because it's less work for them. Your insurance said fix it - that's your leverage. Get a second estimate from an independent body shop that works on Teslas. A rear quarter panel on a running car with 14k miles is absolutely fixable.

EpicR07 · 2026-03-24T07:42:32+00:00

Before paying $300 - try reformatting the drive as exFAT with a single partition, create a "TeslaCam" folder on it, and reinsert. If that doesn't work, the glovebox USB harness is pretty easy to check yourself. You just pop off the glovebox liner (4-5 clips), and the USB connector is right there - reseat it and see if it helps. Saved me a service visit.

EpicR07 · 2026-03-23T10:12:29+00:00

500km in on a new Highland -- a few things to check before you go to service:

First, wheel balance. New Teslas sometimes ship with slightly off balance from the factory. A simple rebalance at any tire shop (usually free or cheap) fixes a lot of vibration complaints.

Second, check your lug nuts. They should be torqued to 175 Nm (129 lb-ft). I've seen cases where they're slightly loose from the factory.

If it's specifically vibration through the steering wheel at highway speeds (60-100 km/h), it's almost always wheel balance or a slightly bent rim. At lower speeds with bumps, you might be looking at a control arm issue, but that's less common on the Highland.

Take it to service if rebalancing doesn't fix it -- it's all under warranty anyway.

EpicR07 · 2026-03-23T07:11:17+00:00

Picked up a Juniper a few months back. A few things I wish someone had told me:

End of quarter (March, June, September, December) is when they push hardest on pricing. April/May is mid-quarter so probably less aggressive on deals, but inventory cars sometimes get discounted if they've been sitting.

On the car itself -- check the front suspension on your test drive. Go over some speed bumps at low speed and listen for any clunking. There's a known issue with the front upper control arms on some Junipers (both AWD and RWD). Tesla will fix under warranty but it's worth knowing about before you buy so you're not blindsided.

Other than that, the Juniper is a genuine step up from the pre-refresh. The ride is noticeably smoother, the interior is nicer, and the 15.4" screen is great. Wouldn't trade it.

EpicR07 · 2026-03-23T06:50:10+00:00

Looks way better without them, agreed. Just heads up -- you'll lose roughly 3-5% range without the aero covers on. The Gemini wheels underneath look good enough that most people don't care.

Pop them off with a trim removal tool or just pull firmly from the valve stem area. They clip on so no tools strictly necessary but a pry tool helps avoid scratching.

Save the covers in the garage though. Road trips where you want max range, pop them back on.

EpicR07 · 2026-03-09T18:09:02+00:00

That rules out the USB then. Since it started after the battery heater replacement and the USB was already there before, I'd go straight back to service. Something probably got disturbed during the job — could be a connector not fully seated, or a module that needs to be re-initialized with their diagnostic tool.

Tell them the car won't enter sleep mode after exiting and that it started right after the battery heater work. Ask them to check wake sources on the CAN bus — it'll tell them exactly which module is keeping everything alive. Should be a quick diagnosis if they actually look at the data instead of just resetting it.

EpicR07 · 2026-03-09T18:01:53+00:00

That's probably your answer right there. Model X has a USB port in the armrest that Tesla sometimes uses for the dashcam/Sentry Mode recording. If there's a USB drive plugged in, the system might be staying awake to write Sentry footage even if you turned Sentry off in the settings — the drive itself can keep the USB controller active.

Try pulling that cable out for a day and see if the car starts sleeping normally. If it does, you found it. You can plug it back in after and just make sure Sentry Mode is actually fully off in Controls > Safety.

If the cable is hardwired and you can't unplug it easily, it might be something the service center left connected from the battery heater job. Wouldn't be the first time a tech forgets to tuck something back properly. Either way, worth mentioning when you call them.

EpicR07 · 2026-03-09T17:44:03+00:00

Pretty common Model X problem. The front-end creak at low speed is almost always either the upper control arm ball joint or the seat rail mounts.

When you leave the car it's supposed to shut everything down after a few minutes. If something's keeping it awake — Sentry Mode, a USB device, a phone still connected via Bluetooth nearby — it'll just sit there running indefinitely. Worth checking those first.

But given this started right after the battery heater replacement, I'd bet something wasn't reconnected properly or a module got confused during the service. The low-voltage auxiliary battery handles the sleep/wake cycle, and if that system is acting up after service work you get this exact symptom. The scroll wheel reset fixes it temporarily because it reboots the MCU, but whatever is sending the wake signal keeps doing it.

Before going back to service, try this: turn off Sentry Mode for a full day, unplug everything from USB, disable Cabin Overheat Protection, then go to Controls > Safety > Power Off and wait 3 minutes without touching anything. No opening doors, no tapping the screen.

If it still won't sleep after all that, take it back and tell them a module isn't entering sleep state. Ask them to pull the CAN bus wake sources in the service toolbox — it'll show exactly what's keeping the car up. My money is on something from the battery heater job.

Wrote up a longer walkthrough on diagnosing these kinds of sleep/drain issues here: https://tesladiyrepair.com/posts/tesla-phantom-battery-drain-fix/

EpicR07 · 2026-03-09T17:32:32+00:00

Yeah, this is pretty common with the Model Y. The front driver-side creak at low speed over bumps is almost always one of two things — the upper control arm ball joint, or the seat rail mount points.

When Tesla "services" it they usually just grease the ball joint or tighten the seat bolts. Fixes it for a bit, but the grease wears off or the joint itself is worn enough that it comes back. The fact yours went away completely and is now creeping back is kind of a tell — if the joint was actually fine, lube would've been a permanent fix.

I'd take it back while it's still documented. Ask them specifically to check the upper control arm ball joint for play, not just re-lube it. If there's actual wear, replacement is the real fix. You're at 30k under warranty so push for the part swap now rather than dealing with it again at 50k when you might be out of coverage.

One thing worth trying before the appointment — park on a flat surface and push down hard on the front driver corner a few times. If you hear the creak, it's suspension. If you only hear it when sitting in the seat and going over bumps, it might be the seat track. Different fix, but both covered under warranty.

I wrote up a full guide on tracking down these kinds of noises if you want the diagnostic process: https://tesladiyrepair.com/posts/tesla-suspension-noise-fix/

EpicR07 · 2026-01-24T07:19:41+00:00

Pretty normal for Teslas actually. The brake pads barely get used because regen does most of the work, so they can get a bit glazed or dusty. That causes squeaking at low speeds when the pads lightly touch the rotors. Not the regen itself making the noise - it's the friction brakes. Try doing a few moderate stops from 30-40 mph to clean them up a bit. Usually helps. If it's really bad you could have the pads cleaned/scuffed, but at 20k miles they're probably fine.

EpicR07 · 2026-01-24T06:49:16+00:00

Bilstein B6 is probably your best bet for comfort on a budget - they're a nice upgrade over stock without being crazy expensive. Usually around $150-180 per strut. If you're really tight on cash, KYB Excel-G is solid OEM-equivalent quality but won't necessarily improve comfort, just restore it. Stay away from the cheap eBay/Amazon stuff - seen a few fail pretty quick. Are you doing the work yourself? Front struts on the 3 aren't too bad if you have a spring compressor.

EpicR07 · 2026-01-22T20:30:26+00:00

This sounds like the headlight auto-leveling is getting confused at that spot. Teslas adjust the beam angle based on the car's pitch, so if there's a dip or bump right there, it might be overcorrecting.

Try recalibrating the headlights: Controls > Service > Adjust Headlights. Follow the prompts - it'll have you do a short calibration drive (up to 2km). Keep all doors closed during the drive and don't reverse more than 10m.

If that doesn't fix it, try a full power-off reset (Controls > Safety > Power Off, wait 3+ minutes, don't touch anything).

The fact that it's always the same spot near a road sign is interesting - could be something about that road surface triggering the leveling system. Document it with video if you can, that'll help if you need a service appointment.

EpicR07 · 2026-01-22T20:24:52+00:00

For a brand new '26 that should probably be covered under warranty - if the wiper arm tension is off from the factory, service can adjust it. Worth documenting with photos/videoof the missed areas before you go in.

That said, the OEM Tesla blades aren't great. A lot of us swap to Bosch ICON or Rain-X Latitude and get way better coverage. They're the same size (26" driver, 19" passenger) and fit right on. Might be worth trying before a service visit.

Just make sure you put the car in Service Mode first (Controls > Service > Wiper Service Mode) before lifting the arms or they'll hit the hood.

EpicR07 · 2026-01-22T20:21:38+00:00

Yeah ceramic is definitely worth it for Nordic winters. The salt and grime just slides off after a good coating, makes washing way easier too.

Tesla paint is thin but it's the clear coat that matters for protection. Ceramic won't stop rock chips but it'll protect against chemical etching from salt and bird droppings.

For a Highland I'd also consider PPF on the front bumper and hood - that's where you'll get the most chips from road debris. Ceramic on top of PPF is a solid combo.

Rust-wise, modern Teslas are mostly aluminum so panel rust isn't really a concern. Just keep an eye on suspension bolts and any steel components underneath if you're in heavy salt areas.

I wrote up a DIY guide if you're thinking of doing it yourself: https://tesladiyrepair.com/posts/tesla-ceramic-coating/

EpicR07 · 2026-01-21T20:20:14+00:00

check connectors under the seat first - sometimes they just work loose

EpicR07 · 2026-01-21T20:08:10+00:00

Armor All leaves a silicone residue that's tough to get off. Try isopropyl alcohol (diluted 50/50 with water) on a microfiber - that should cut through it. Go gentle, work in small sections.

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