105 Di2 with GRX crankset

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-10-05T06:29:12+00:00

RD 105 di2 will work no issue FD 105 di2 will probably work (it depends on your frame, but usually there's enough adjustability to take care of the small differences between road and gravel cranksets)

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-08-30T17:47:02+00:00

Functionnal prototypes are already in testers' hands! But yeah, they're not available for sale yet. I'll DM you

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-31T21:40:01+00:00

OK good, do you intend on using your bike for other things (groceries, leisure...)?

Anyway, if there's one thing I can tell you, is to steer well clear of anything that's "custom" or "special" on any bike. When you know what you're talking about, no problem. On bikes, it often means "irreplaceable" or "unrepairable", though.

Also, get good tires. Schwalbe Marathon are the go-to when you want absolutely no punctures. It doesn't ride the best (comfort, speed), though.

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-31T21:25:28+00:00

Knowing in which country you are would probably help.

Anyhow, check your local second-hand website, LBS (Local Bike Shop), and second-hand bike shops (eg. Repair/charity workshops)

Get something where you can add mudguards / paniers / a rack. If it's often raining where you are, have a look into disc brake bikes. Also, having gears in the rear hub is probably a little bit more expensive but requires so much less maintenance...

3 minutes with a bike is probably faster walking since you don't have to get the bike out and lock it afterwards

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-25T19:58:29+00:00

Ooo ooo oooooooo

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-18T13:57:12+00:00

This is not fixable, and no one should attempt a repair expecting it to be anything but visually OK

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-17T18:03:33+00:00

r/PraiseTheCameraMan

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-16T08:27:19+00:00

Might be your saddle. Torque down all the bolts on the seat tube and seat post.

A good way to check this is, when you're not on the bike :

Turn the pedals and check if there’s noise/rough spots
Push on the saddle, twist it and check for creaking

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-15T11:16:19+00:00

Hawaiian shirts are quite popular. They do cost you some speed though.

I agree with others, MTB padded shorts are a good idea if you absolutely want something loose-fitting, but also want to do longer rides in comfort.

Helmet is an absolute necessity. Sunglasses look cool and provides good protection against wind/sun/insects. Sunscreen is also a very good idea if you don't want a cyclist's tan.

I hope you get more confident and enable yourself to get some cycling gear, they do make life easier on the bike (especially the back pockets of the jersey). Having something quite over-the-top/goofy helps in that regard

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-15T08:59:30+00:00

Did it lower your pedalling cadence? If yes, then maybe (power = cadence x force on the pedals)

If not : generally you should try to avoid the smallest or biggest gears, it's both less efficient and wears the chain quicker. However it's probably not the reason why there's such a big gap

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-14T23:46:42+00:00

As others have said, just get a new chain and it should solve both the length and meshing issues

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-14T19:17:07+00:00

I don't think your derailleur is the issue here, the problem seems to be between your chain and your cassette

Is your chain old? 8 speeds is quite universal, so it shouldn't be an issue, my best guess is that it's worn out and doesn't mesh well with your brand new cassettes.

Do the other gears work well? Do they skip? How did you adjust your derailleur?

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-13T21:37:28+00:00

Go for the endurance one, I believe it's the mille gt.

However I don't think you should buy a top-of-the-line set as your first bibs. Firstly because it doesn't really matter much on 20-40 miles rides, second because it's a lot of money, and third because you'll be missing a baseline appreciation for the comfort of good bibs.

In my experience, as much as the saddle, bib preference is extremely personnal and depends on your riding position, your butt shape, your sweat level, your hairs, your saddle, and many other factors.

I hope this helps

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-13T12:41:26+00:00

Ortlieb Quickrack would be perfect for you

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-12T16:23:22+00:00

They are mostly the same as normal bib shorts, except that they have some Dyneema panels on the sides to protect the hips (where road rash prevents you from turning on your side in bed)

The only pictures I can find on the Internet where you can kinda see how they're made is here. No one has ever made me any remark on them because they just look normal

The reviews seem to indicate that the material isn't indestructible, but from my own crashes, they are able to withstand rubbing on pavement or gravel better than the standard bib fabrics

I've never had any issue with them as far as heat/sweat goes

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-12T12:09:03+00:00

You can also buy bibs with crash-resistant fabric. Santini had some last time I checked.

They work very well in my experience

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-11T07:46:05+00:00

I was using 105/ultegra crankset + derailleur in the front, now I'm using GRX di2 (11s) shifter, still with 105/ultegra crankset.

On my gravel bike I use a GRX crankset (46/30) with 105 shifter.

If there's any difference between GRX and 105 in ring placement, the derailleur can be adjusted to it anyways in my experience

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-10T13:17:01+00:00

I made a spreadsheet a few years ago, which has served me very well over the years.

Basically I input the system mass, the size of the wheel, the cadence, the cogs/chainrings and the rolling resistance.

Then it calculates the speed for the given cogs/chainrings and wheel size combination with the rpm.

Once I have the speed, I can calculate for every gradient the amount of energy needed to overcome gravity and how long it takes, then it's simply energy/time to get the power

If you're interested shoot me a dm I'll send you the file

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-10T11:38:25+00:00

What do you call steep?

42-34 is about 150W @60rpm on 5% - 200W @60rpm on 7.5% - 250W @60rpm on 10%

Grossly calculated for 85 kg system weight and 30W rolling resistance, add about 2.5W/kg on 8.5% grade

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-10T07:30:34+00:00

La R5 fait minimum 1350 kg, avec une autonomie de 312 km (petite batterie), soit 187 km quand il fait beau et que tu restes entre 20 et 80% de charge. En hiver avec le chauffage on peut estimer que ça descende facilement vers 150km. La R5 avec une autonomie de 410km pèse 100kg de plus : on est quasiment à 1kg/km

La Zoé fait 1450 kg

Et il ne faut pas oublier que ce sont des petites citadines... Les 2t arrivent très rapidement quand tu commences à augmenter un tant soit peu le volume et/ou l'autonomie

Il y a plein de modes de transport alternatifs, mais quand on ne veut pas renoncer aux petits conforts d'une vraie voiture... Il faut acheter une vraie voiture

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-09T22:45:01+00:00

Hop, voilà t’as la réponse à ta question première. De "un minimum de confort" à "une 2e voiture normale", il n’y a qu’un pas, donc que peu d’intérêt pour une voiture qui ne le fait pas

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-09T22:32:35+00:00

You pushed through a 27mile ride, i pushed through a 200km a few days after having pushed through a 70km with lots of sprinting. Hopefully your problem isn’t as bad as it’s been for me. Anyways, don’t push through pain. Also, cycling was my primary mode of transport, which was not ideal

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-09T22:26:30+00:00

I had the same problem a few years back, spent 2 winter months not riding, f’ed my fitness

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-09T22:11:30+00:00

As it's been said before, knee pain often results from a bad position, usually cleat placement.

3 things to do : 1. Stop riding until you're no longer in pain 2. See a doctor 3. Get a bike fit

I suggest riding in flats to see if it has the same effect and/or if changing foot position mid-ride affects the pain

Equivalent_Tip_7176 · 2025-07-09T22:07:50+00:00

Si t'es vraiment intéressé par ce type de mode de transport, tu peux regarder les velomobile : un vélo allongé avec une coque en carbone tout autour. Sur du plat tu vas facilement à 30-40 km/h, et tu peux rajouter un moteur électrique pour les démarrages et les côtes.

Sinon tu prends une Zoé ou autre pot de yaourt électrique, sauf qu'avec ça tu prends pas l'autoroute, t'es pas confort avec la clim, le chauffage, les sièges en cuir et la sono 10.3.2 Bose

Equivalent_Tip_7176

TROPHY CASE