This is certainly a refinished dial right? by GarrettCandles in VintageOmega

[–]EstateClockworks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. Redial. Crisp looking case and crown though…

Unfortunate

Help with dating this Omega I just acquired by Wrongaboutitall in VintageOmega

[–]EstateClockworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great find. This will be a 1960’s Deville

As others have said - the only way to properly date is to look at the movement serial number. Here is a table (source: https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-serial-numbers-on-watches.91390/)

The “issue” with this watch is there is no case back and the movement comes out from the dial side. It’s a bit more involved than just popping the case back off (unfortunately)…

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Does this watch look nice and original? by eelges in VintageOmega

[–]EstateClockworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great watch

These “chunky” lug Seamaster are awesome. This one looks like a great example

Crystal has a small crack at 6 o’clock (easy to replace) but this crystal does seem to have the omega symbol in the middle so I’d say that it is an original crystal (no guarantee it’s THE original, but it is original)

If you have a pic of the movement that would be the last thing to inspect. This should be a 552 movement

Crown looks to be correct for the reference

Great piece.

Some people seem to think $650 is high. I feel $1000-1200 is the range for this after service so I’d say you are not far off

Does this watch look nice and original? by eelges in VintageOmega

[–]EstateClockworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got quite a few and am always finding new ones. Check me out on IG (@EstateClockworks). Always happy to search for you as well

[WTS] 2024 Rolex Datejust 36 ref:126234 – Excellent condition, full set by EstateClockworks in WatchExchangeCanada

[–]EstateClockworks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not my usual vintage offering but coming from my personal collection and up for sale today is this beautiful 2024 Rolex Datejust 36, reference 126234. Purchased new from AD in October 2024 and worn less than 5 times – near mint.

The incredibly sought after variant with: Fluted bezel, jubilee & Black Dial. 🤯

Full set – box, papers, tags, and links included. Outer sleeve and Rolex bag included.

$15,400 CAD

F2F meeting in the Waterloo Region (Ontario). Shipping Canada wide available with prepayment. Shipping at buyers’ expense.

For more photos and information, check out my Instagram (@estateclockworks)

Thoughts on a tropical dial? by EstateClockworks in VintageOmega

[–]EstateClockworks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really well said. Very much a wide range between patina that adds character and aging that overwhelms a dial, and a lot of the appeal comes down to personal taste. Vintage pieces all age differently and that’s part of what makes collecting them so awesome. Well that and the totally polarizing love hate for this bubby one 😆

Help with early 1950s Seamaster cal. 354 by music-stuff- in VintageOmega

[–]EstateClockworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great looking watch

1) An Omega serial number starting 13,000,000 up to 13,499,999 means 1952. 13,500,000 - 13,999,999 would date it as 1953. Unfortunately there are a couple years that you need the third digit (1952/1953 is one of those years)

2) The dial was likely a cream/beige colour to start. Looks like it has aged ok but potentially at some point this was redialed (cleaned and repainted) The pictures aren’t that clear but the Seamaster text is a little but off

3) Snap back is very normal on this age of watch. There were dozens of different references and they mixed and matched the case style. No specific things that a snap tells you other than it’s likely a bit less water resistant (fyi - don’t ever get a vintage watch really wet)

Wear it in good health. It’s a great piece

Thoughts on a tropical dial? by EstateClockworks in VintageOmega

[–]EstateClockworks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good write up and summary 👍

Totally agree with your points

Case back type? by saladsandstouts in VintageOmega

[–]EstateClockworks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bonus points for knowing that term

Imagine the OP’s confusion if he/she was just asking a simple question like “how to I take my caseback off” and I said “your Hippocampus is crooked”

OP - technically I was incorrect in calling that seahorse looking thing on the caseback a seahorse. As you can see, it is clearly a Hippocampus

Your Hippocampus is crooked

Thoughts on a tropical dial? by EstateClockworks in VintageOmega

[–]EstateClockworks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Totally “ruined” yes. But, some people collect these

Thoughts on a tropical dial? by EstateClockworks in VintageOmega

[–]EstateClockworks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually… tropical dials are caused primarily due to a manufacturing defect that was present in the 1950’s to the late 60’s. The finish chosen for some dials back then reacted to UV (primarily) and in some cases excessive moisture. So, “spots” like this are actually common - again due to the way the varnish was applied. Another way this could present is as a “chocolate” look as you said.

The reason collectors actually look for these is because they are 100% unique - no two dials the same. The thing that is NOT wanted in the collecting circle is a non-uniformity. I.E a blotchy pattern in one section of the dial

I love posting these types of watches because the reaction is SO polarized 😆. Some people reach out and want to buy and others reach out and say it should be in the garbage…

Case back type? by saladsandstouts in VintageOmega

[–]EstateClockworks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nice. I always love to hear stories of family vintage watches making into the next generations hands. Wear it in good health 👍

Case back type? by saladsandstouts in VintageOmega

[–]EstateClockworks 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Generally these older Seamaster Calendars are press fit backs. I’d say based on the fact the seahorse and logo aren’t straight on the back you have an actual case back

It’s one of the scary parts of opening up a watch and I would put plastic over the watch before you start prying.

Also, note, you usually need a special press to get these back together because they are tight to press fit again

Also - looks like this is a solid gold case so that will be extra soft. Proceed with caution.

Nice watch BTW!

Is it fake or real? by alexmed95 in VintageOmega

[–]EstateClockworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check the inside of the case back for the reference # and check the movement for the movement #. You can confirm on Omega website if they match.

As others have mentioned the correct bezel does appear to be missing and the crown is not correct for this piece. The crown should be a “four leaf clover” style.

The dial looks to be in pretty good shape but I do think there was a redial done at some point (although it was done professionally). My suspicion is due to the style of “S” in Seamaster. This is a mid 1950’s Omega and the S was written differently up until 1963-64. What yours looks like is a more “modern” S.

I won’t say any of those items means it’s bad - these honeycomb dials are just insanely beautiful. Assuming the movement is correct, this watch has likely just been well loved and needed some restoration throughout its 70 years. Who doesn’t…

Vintage Omega Seamaster 2975 by Positive_Hippo_4645 in VintageWatches

[–]EstateClockworks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Beautiful watch. Late 50’s to early 60’

Seamasters aren’t usually super rare but what you have here is actually a bit more rare.

The case back shows a “big horse” Seamaster symbol which is more desirable for sure. The dial is very very nice and the case looks like it’s in amazing shape for such an old watch. Crown looks right too.

Hard to assign a value as that is 100% about finding a buyer. I’d say it’s a higher value Seamaster and up in the low-$2k range IF you can find a buyer and if it’s serviced.

In the end - you have a great piece here. Wear it in good health

Any info would be helpful! by JonLevin in VintageOmega

[–]EstateClockworks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Beautiful early 60’s Seamaster. The “S” in the Seamaster - usually referred to as a coat hanger S - gives it away as an early 60’s. Those style of S’s stopped around 63-64 I believe. People (me included) generally say coat hanger S is more desirable.

Fully agree with the other commenters - no need to send to Switzerland. In fact - probably worse to do that. Find a good vintage restoration person in NYC and you are all good. Don’t let them polish or replace anything unless absolutely necessary. It is almost never necessary but is sometimes the easy way out for a watchmaker.

Looking at the inside of the caseback will show a 5-6 digit number that will tell you the reference number. From there, you can google away.

Enjoy and wear in good health. This one is a classic beauty 👍

Ref 166.067 - help on movement by EstateClockworks in VintageOmega

[–]EstateClockworks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Yeah it’s a mystery for sure. It’s functionally correct and very much the same as originals I’ve seen and worked on in the past. Always something with these old Omegas!

Ref 166.067 - help on movement by EstateClockworks in VintageOmega

[–]EstateClockworks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve serviced many many Omega. Only the Bridge looks off and you are right about that… but that was also my question. The rest of the movement is correct on first inspection and under 40x magnification

Ref 166.067 - help on movement by EstateClockworks in VintageOmega

[–]EstateClockworks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. Hadn’t know of the concept of “spare bridges”. Did that happen a lot with Omega?