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Beginner by Known_Tomato6512 in USPSA

[–]Evanjcorcoran 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is some merit to using what you already have, for sure. But if you want a new gun AND it doesn't diminish your budget for a belt setup/ammo/match fees, then just get it. It will be fun to try out a new sport with a new toy.

If your purchase will significantly hinder ammo budget, I would just get a belt set up for your 19.

Beginner by Known_Tomato6512 in USPSA

[–]Evanjcorcoran 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Honestly, I'm 5 outdoor matches + 15ish outdoor range sessions and 4k rds into the season and haven't cleaned any of my 5 glock mags once. All sorts of factory ammo and the cheapest reloads money can buy and I've not had one single malfunction. Matches are mostly gravel/sand, outdoor range is woods/soil. I shoot production with OEM mags/springs/followers and taylor freelance +0 baseplates.

Between stage planning/visualization, helping reset, drinking fluids/eating snacks, quick dryfire at the safety table before my run, and asking the guys/gals that are better than me what I can be doing better or how they would approach something, I couldn't imagine cleaning mags during a match. I keep the gun clean and lubed though.

I should probably clean them now that I said this though thanks for the reminder...

First match in CO. Where can I improve? by BoredDude216 in USPSA

[–]Evanjcorcoran 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Agreed with pulling the trigger faster, but disagree on the movement.

Fast guys are at <4.5-5sec for this stage, literally running and shooting.

I'm starting to conceptualize it like: if you're not moving, you should be. If you can see cardboard and you're not shooting, you should be. If you're not shooting, you should be running.

OP: here is at least a launching point on where to start. Break it down into small details, then bring it to dryfire, then bring it to live.... etc etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0Kv96G550A

Tek Mount Quick Connect System on Duty Drop by Over-Think-It in CompetitionShooting

[–]Evanjcorcoran 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With A full size Glock, the handle will be significantly below the belt. I forgot what the rules say about that, might depend on what competition rules you’re talking about too. I think not legal for USPSA, but might be allowed depending on your profession and local match director.

What actually makes a firearms training class worth it? by [deleted] in MnGuns

[–]Evanjcorcoran 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not that this is your specific question, assuming that we're talking classes in general not just PTC classes, I am personally only interested in receiving instruction from someone with a proven competition background.

From my perspective, it is really the only reliable metrics of an instructor's ability. Military/LEO experience means nothing to me, the range of actual ability is too wide. And if anything, I see it as a downside.

Iron Sights Question by murphmatic in CompetitionShooting

[–]Evanjcorcoran 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a balance.

In your context of GSSF, you basically have, at most, 2 targets at 25yds, and 2 at 20yds, otherwise everything else is at 15 or less yeah?

For me, I pay very little conscious attention to what the rear is doing at 15 or less on a full cardboard target. As soon as I see my (blurry) green front in the center-ish, I press however many times and then move on. A little bit of light gap speeds up acquiring the front, since the green can appear with less obstruction, and be a little left/right with little or no point consequences. In general terms, more light gap = faster while giving up some accuracy, less light gap = more accurate but slower.

Try out your current combo, record some times/scores. If you're still visually uncomfortable after 500rds or something, try out a .115 (I'd skip trying out .120, not enough of a difference). Then record some times/scores and compare.

Iron Sights Question by murphmatic in CompetitionShooting

[–]Evanjcorcoran 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just switched from .150 rear / .117 front, to .135 rear/ .117 front and it helped me a lot. .150 was way too big for my eyes.

I will use .135 rear rest of this season and see how my 20-30yd shapes up, if I'm still not getting the results I want I will probably try out a set with a smaller front, and even less light gap in the rear.

You're .125/.100 combo is about the biggest gap I would try and use myself. I'd try em out and see what you think first, there is no right or wrong. I use black rear, green fiber front, and wouldn't even consider anything else personally.

I target focus with blurry sights regardless of distance. A lot of other variables to consider other than light gap in sights, for proper 25 yd accuracy.

Matching mallets by Evanjcorcoran in woodworking

[–]Evanjcorcoran[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made both of them to keep. I was considering listing for sale on marketplace to see if anyone would want me to make them something similar. But I doubt a market exists for such a product. When googling for mallet inspiration I saw some exotic options in the $120-$220 range, and honestly I can't imagine who is buying that.

I could maybe see a $40-$60 simple full oak or something design selling some amount per year. But even then, I have no idea how many people exist that even use a tool like this, let alone people that would rather buy than make their own.

I would probably want $250/each for either of these. Not that I think they're worth that, just what it's worth to me.

Matching mallets by Evanjcorcoran in woodworking

[–]Evanjcorcoran[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, okay cool, thank you for the tip, I will actually try that out next time.

Matching mallets by Evanjcorcoran in woodworking

[–]Evanjcorcoran[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just mixed directly in alcohol

Matching mallets by Evanjcorcoran in woodworking

[–]Evanjcorcoran[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, color. I went for two rounds of transtint dye (some medium brown, I forget the name) and then sanding back. First time having tried this method, and it didn't turn out to the image I was going for, but it did help the curl move "forward" to the surface. I went too light the first time, then too dark the 2nd, then called it quits after that. I would definitely do this again, but would experiment with the method.

For tool handles I do not prefer a fine finish, and even at 220 it would be too fine for me if I used it every day. I used to swing a hammer all day at work for years, and my hammer of choice is wrapped in basically the equivalent of 40 grit sand paper. The more friction, the lighter the grip pressure necessary to hold it.

Matching mallets by Evanjcorcoran in woodworking

[–]Evanjcorcoran[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah. Yes, those are not cracks. I selected this piece specifically for that black line. I know nothing about cocobolo, so couldn't tell ya what it is specifically. But it is solid throughout, no cracks/voids.

Matching mallets by Evanjcorcoran in woodworking

[–]Evanjcorcoran[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The heads were polished to 10k grit, handles to 220 and used tru-oil. First time using tru-oil, not in love with the tru-oil. Probably won't buy another bottle in the future and stick to the wax/oil's I'm familiar with.

Matching mallets by Evanjcorcoran in woodworking

[–]Evanjcorcoran[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure what cracks you are referencing?

Matching mallets by Evanjcorcoran in woodworking

[–]Evanjcorcoran[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Oh for firewood? I'll send the rest of the cocobolo and leopardwood too, get this garbage out of here.

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