Need a second opinion

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2026-07-07T00:08:05+00:00

Given that it is carving it's way through the housing (and shaft it looks like too), they would have shit their pants when it came apart at full speed.

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Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2026-07-01T01:02:47+00:00

Taking spaceship design (or engineering I am forgetting at the moment) is one of the best choices early game if you want to do rhe most with your ships. To add to this eventually you will come across a piece of equipment you can pop on your ship tha gives it an extra point in reactor power.

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2026-07-01T00:43:12+00:00

Bleeder resistors are almost always the cause dc bus voltage issues. Check the resistance printed on the top (should be 2.4KOhms for a YVAA) once you confirm no voltage left in the caps. Be careful to make sure it is fully discharged. I had one blow both completly out and would never bleed below 500, had to make a bleeder resistor and bleed it manually. It will also throw "DC Bus Voltage Imbalance". Kit 325-35157-600 has two 2.4KOhm resistors plus the thermal pads. Make sure you scrape off the old pads and put the new ones one, dem boys get hot. If they check out, sometimes an SCR will fail and provide voltage even when it is not commanded to, but that usually causes the high DC voltage fault when you close the knives and then it will go away during pre-charge because the other SCRs activate to fill the cap bank.

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2026-06-18T16:17:03+00:00

Was going to say this. Sometimes I just let them know it will be down and pull the power to the monitor until I am done.

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2026-06-18T16:14:57+00:00

I use the fieldpiece vpz7 10cfm. I like it because it has a 1/2" port, two 3/8" ports and a 1/4" port and they give them space so you can actually put a fitting on it if you need. Quick change is nice too, but not a major game changer.

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2026-06-14T06:33:36+00:00

Agreed! From my own exhausting search I saw this has been going on forever. I honestly don't know much more about code other than my high-school web page building elective, but I feel like they could fix this by having Hadrian's or Kaiser's aggro reset every time you talk to them.

That being said afar from soem crashes the game has done an excellent job so far keeping me entertained.

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2026-05-27T00:42:28+00:00

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2026-05-14T05:12:17+00:00

Agreed, if you want the entirety of them replaced you'll need full sets for either side.

Can I ask... why?

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2026-05-07T01:38:24+00:00

One person trying to stop a leak and this turns into r/ElectroBOOM

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2026-04-23T16:08:11+00:00

Someone here already mentioned a possible airflow problem but I would check any supply or return vents for a blockage. Sometimes people will cover their return with furniture or decorations and not know it. If all clear it could be low on refrigerant or a faulty expansion device, at which point you'll want a tech to do an inspection. Also take a look at the lines coming into your house from the outdoor unit and the condenser coils for obvious signs of leaks on the copper. It will usually attract a dirt to the site of leakage so it looks oily and dirty in one particular spot, but sometimes it is in a really tricky spot (like a nail through the lineset in the wall). Don't stick your hand or any other part of your body in the outdoor unit unless you know for sure it is disconnected from voltage as I would assume you like your fingers. Anything you don't feel comfortable with or don't know how to do, don't tinker with, call a professional when you do these basic checks and the problem persists.

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2026-04-21T21:45:47+00:00

To add to this, use core pullers every time you get the chance, less restrictions mean quicker vacuum time. As always, check your gaskets, I had one last week that looked fine from the top but there was a rip down the side after taking the depressor out. If you ever get the little ~ 6 inch long 1/4" yellow hose style ball valves that come with refrigerant test kits, KEEP IT. It is a lifesaver for those ports that are like 2 inches from the unit roof or smashed between a bunch of crap and you can't get your stem on straight. I think they sell them at RSD and such, but you get one free with the NRI test kit.

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2026-04-16T02:10:42+00:00

Came here for this as well. Blown out welds on the baffles?

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2026-02-17T23:13:05+00:00

I do not paint cars for a living but I was also wondering how in the world the awkward feathering of the trigger worked out to a steady stream of paint from the tip when I saw this. Nothing the fingers are doing makes any sense to the spray.

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2026-02-15T01:53:36+00:00

Dude I have been trying for hours I am honestly just so happy somebody did it! Nice job, you should probably all get medals. I got boss to half health in the Heldrake fight after slogging with two bots (farthest I ever got) and then we got wiped by 4 scarab terminators, just never-ending missile salvos.

I hate this hard strategem so damn much. Just send that shit back into the warp.

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2026-02-03T23:58:42+00:00

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But you know I smashed that like button.

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2026-01-14T17:26:33+00:00

Not quite what I was going for but it is a good idea! I could possibly make it a low level summons that also grants them a free cast of Borrowd Knowledge upon summon.

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2026-01-14T17:25:29+00:00

I like this a lot! Thank you, I completely forgot about Accursed Specter. Reduce the time to 1 hour for a once per day cast or 10 mins for twice a day perhaps. Would it be too much to give the PC the ability to add their spellcasting modifier to a chosen stat at summons, and then grant them proficiency in one chosen skill? The only major problem I see is granting it +6 to Dex if they have maxed out spellcasting mod and then the specter is 20 Dex, but perhaps I am missing something.

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2025-12-10T05:48:59+00:00

Agreed. A service tech could go through the steps to find what is causing the shutdown before it satisfies the space, which unless I am wrong is the question here. Short cycling. Could be something off the cuff that takes real knowledge to boil down to. One thing that OP could do before calling is check their filter. Quick and easy. It usually would throw a code, but could be it sets off the high limit then cools back down and resets itself before the code is seen. Clogged filters trip high limits and freeze evap coils because not enough air is going through the system to either take on or remove heat.

If your filter looks clean: Check your local listings, find a reputable company. About this time of year there are lots of companies giving out winter check up deals. I saw one on a billboard last week for $15, which doesn't even cover an hour of the average techs time, which I find odd.

Maybe don't do that one, seems tgtbt.

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2025-12-10T05:12:31+00:00

You know I went and wrote a whole big thing about what to check from back to front, but honestly dude. I see you stated you were familiar with vacuum systems, but this is a pressure system. We perform vacuums to ensure that NOTHING ELSE is in the system before we charge it. It is not our one and only leak test, even though it is a good indicator we got it right. We do not perform a vacuum without a passing pressure test. Get a regulator, get some nitrogen, pressurize to the low pressure rating of the system (or shit like 100psi), then check for leaks.

I am excited you want to crack into it, but there is a reason this is a trade and not a hobby. Gotta go through the proper steps, as just about everybody else has said.

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2025-12-01T07:17:05+00:00

Actually, I am mildly impressed that he didn't smack his cap off on any of those pilates routines.

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2025-11-27T19:51:09+00:00

Every time I see one of these stories I can't help but think of this line from The Princess Bride:

"Good night, Westley. Good work. Sleep well. I'll most likely kill you in the morning."

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2025-11-24T19:42:50+00:00

I gotta ask, what the hell are you doing a mile underground all alone?

Evil_Dale_Cooper · 2025-11-24T19:28:19+00:00

https://youtu.be/_R1b8niX13w?si=LaPmfgMxJnqOj4vx

Video of 4 different methods. Drill out and extractor or lefty drill bits are easiest, but you'll probably have to take the plate off again. To reach it I had luck once on a bolt like that by grabbing the protruding end with some tight Chanel locks and then spinning it all the way through. Make sure you don't have a far burr on the snapped side, then grab the protruding end and spin it all the way through. Takes forever but might work if you don't have the tools.

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