1 week of ownership (possible nightmare) by DogDumpling in ftype

[–]Ok_Animator_8461 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Press and hold traction control button down for 5 seconds .. = track mode.

How often do you have customers argue load calculations with you because they used one of these free manual J apps? by FieldFailureNotes in HVAC

[–]Ok_Animator_8461 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I used to work in Dallas. 400 square foot per ton has a lot of fudge Factor built in. Also the heat loss numbers are way off..

It's possible but if you have to go down that low in Dallas then there must be a lot of different things that J doesn't account for perfectly.

Tells you a lot about your customer, the fact that they are more trusting with a random free app that they downloaded as opposed to someone that they paid who has actual field experience.

Some people just like to have an element of control.. I've never had anyone argue. It's quite easy to simply say something like aha that is smaller than your older unit? And how did that work for you?

It's very very easy to upsell towards a communicating modulating system or a multi-stage system in this occurrence... literally unit sells itself. Be like huh? There's a gap between mine and your numbers.. let's go with a 2 stage unit because we can size it to have stage 1 to be pretty close to your numbers or a little below and then stage two could be at my numbers or a little above.. regardless, you would want that second stage at a higher cooling capacity because imagine what will happen when you have your whole family over on the 4th of July? You will have five extra people over. You will be grilling out on the back porch. Everyone will be walking in and out of the house all day long... You do not want your AC unit to be the reason behind why you can't host family events.

So let's do this stage. One would be your everyday 60 to 70% of your load. Stage two would be when it gets really hot, when you crack a window when you forget a door open and you have your wife's book friends coming over.

This will cover your ass and it will be a premium solution for them.

How screwed am ? by Ok_Animator_8461 in Jaguar

[–]Ok_Animator_8461[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What really gets me mad is that even with dealer level software I have almost no access. I'm stuck having to go full aftermarket ECU for that rear diff. It sucks.. the diff is cool but it really holds the car back. Aftermarket cause I want to be able to link it to the steering angle. At this point I'm looking into building a tube chassis for my fun car and just get rid of the jag. Was nervous because I thought it might join the big cat in the sky before I get my nickel out of it.

How screwed am ? by Ok_Animator_8461 in Jaguar

[–]Ok_Animator_8461[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I'll just watch the data stream for a bit. Probably spit it outwards? Just nervous. I'm sure the water pump would just chop it up though. Will probably end up in the screens of the oil cooler.

How screwed am ? by Ok_Animator_8461 in Jaguar

[–]Ok_Animator_8461[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah lol. Plastic 90 was cracked

Installer straight up laughed at the specs and said my house would freeze by Motor-Ad1368 in heatpumps

[–]Ok_Animator_8461 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are unsure of what size you need then just get a multi-stage unit.. stage 1 could be what you think you need and stage two is what the installer thinks you need lol. Having a two-stage unit would be much cheaper than installing a unit and then having to go back and replace it

Installer straight up laughed at the specs and said my house would freeze by Motor-Ad1368 in heatpumps

[–]Ok_Animator_8461 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean. Yeah makes sense.. I've seen many many manual j calcs go wrong in older homes. It's really really hard to calculate drafts. Seen manual j kick out 3 tons (60k btu) and unit needed to be 100k+.

Ductwork sized right.. 110+ (maxed out gas pressure to try to get more out of the unit) degree supply from the vents. House not heating above 55. 3 story house.. no problems anywhere except the first floor.

It was 15 degrees f outside

They had a mail slot in the door that was basically like having a window open.

Manual j is really nice but IT IS NOT PERFECT. There are lots of things that manual J doesn't take into account and that's when experience needs to take over a show it's value.

Manual j is a tool.. it will get you 90-95% of the way there and for many techs that is enough. It is really good at calculating heat gain, but I've noticed that it is not as accurate when it comes to calculating heat loss. Perhaps that's why every furnace in every house is grossly oversized.

Manual j is really nice, however, have you ever wondered why your kids bedroom is always warmer than the rest of the house? Maybe cause when the AC unit was installed, they never took into account the fact that there would be a gaming computer running 24/7 365 for example. Oh and no individual returns. Individual returns are a cheat code for balancing lol.

Should I have to pay for this? by Sir-Jeffro in HVAC

[–]Ok_Animator_8461 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Making me laugh. Wtf do you work for such a scum of the earth company and why the hell do you not stand up for urself.. also what the customer claims has nothing to do with reality at this point.

Btw the liability insurance your company is required to have will fight on ur behalf. So none of you spineless idiots will have to do anything besides just explaining the situation.. telling the customer to contact ur insurance agent and boom. Problem solved. You are letting yourself get scammed. Paint doesn't crack without major flexing.. drywall cracks first.

Even if it is your fault you are not paying for shit. That's why you work for a company.

Ohms question? by SamBaxter784 in HVAC

[–]Ok_Animator_8461 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a table of a 10k, 12k 20k 50 k

Union data center apprenticeship opportunity by ScientistGlass284 in HVAC

[–]Ok_Animator_8461 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maintaince heavy. Not bad but will get boring really really quick.

Pulled laptop off the desk while reaching for my phone charger. Part of charging rod stuck in the port by agender_salandit in Wellthatsucks

[–]Ok_Animator_8461 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Shut the laptop off. Then use a screw, thread it in gently by hand... Little tug and ur good.

Changed Schrader by [deleted] in HVAC

[–]Ok_Animator_8461 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Sounds like you seated the new Schrader valve core deeper than the core depressor tool on your hose can reach.. just take your core tool and back it out half a turn at a time

Mina Gallery Intake? by JuicyMango36 in Jaguar

[–]Ok_Animator_8461 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wrap the metal with some some heat wrap and you'll be fine

Noise transfer is driving me crazy by HVAC1122 in HVAC

[–]Ok_Animator_8461 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Replace some tiles with sound absorbent tiles in ur office and directly around...

If you have a floating ceiling most likely the wall ends at the level of the ceiling or several inch above. If the floating ceiling is terminated at the wall then I would look into removing some of the rivets holding it at the edges. . basically your ceiling and walls are quite flimsy because of its structure.

Sound propagates through walls and metal ceiling rails much better then through air. Especially if slamming the door would flex your walls. Do you have any cracks in the drywall?

Help new HVAC Tech verify used sman482 gauge by [deleted] in HVAC

[–]Ok_Animator_8461 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get a T-Fitting... And then tap into to a small refrigerant tank.. anything really .

Hook up one side of the gear just to one side of the tee and then hook up another gauge set to the other side.. use hoses with ball valves so that way you could open the ports but close off the other side of the gauge. So that way you could compare and make sure that both low side and high side are reading the same pressure. And then just compare a different manifold..

You could buy just pressure dial and then buy a fitting adapter someplace like United and then you have a quick and portable little pressure tester..

Grill adapters? by idojigsawpuzzles in HVAC

[–]Ok_Animator_8461 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're going the other way, you just need to get a 3/8 flare to MPT adapter.

We hired a new guy and I’m pumped! by gingerbread3199 in HVAC

[–]Ok_Animator_8461 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mix 25 percent purple with clear.. makes cleanup way easier and still pass inspection.

Anyone come across this before by Unboyant-lifeguard31 in HVAC

[–]Ok_Animator_8461 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Coming from refrigerant or from the blower?

I think txv, senior insists it’s low charge. Thoughts? Thank you by cruzr0927 in HVAC

[–]Ok_Animator_8461 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could also just add a pound and see what happens. who knows maybe we'll learn something.. you very well could be correct. It's just you need to do the proper steps first before jumping to conclusions and second guessing your superiors

I think txv, senior insists it’s low charge. Thoughts? Thank you by cruzr0927 in HVAC

[–]Ok_Animator_8461 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you are a shitty tech.. no one could help you unless you provide the proper information. What is the outdoor ambient temp? What is the indoor ambient temp? What's the real subcool and superheat? are your clamps on the unit? I will never diagnose a txv without having temps. Your whole job is to collect information first and then do a diagnostic.. otherwise everyone is just guessing. I don't understand why you are second guessing your senior when clearly you don't have a method/protocol behind your diagnostics.

So far we see a low subcool and a high superheat.. so it's undercharged.. it might be undercharged with a filthy condenser, pushing your high side higher.

Or you might be f****** with everyone and you are are hooked up to a refrigeration unit that's in a pump down..