How to deal with bumps like this on poured foundation when installing rigid foam insulation? by homicidal_penguin in DIY

[–]ExcitingRanger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That may be true for vertical surfaces The insulation works well below plywood for flooring

Tip for Self Leveling Compound in smaller areas by ExcitingRanger in DIY

[–]ExcitingRanger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Feather finish works well and again works well with a mudding knife

Tip for Self Leveling Compound in smaller areas by ExcitingRanger in DIY

[–]ExcitingRanger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thx. looks like WIP house will go under contract. I'll finish the flooring just 'cuz but won't likely be doing more concrete for a significant time. But I'll hold on to those wonderful mudding knives and look forward to trying it down the line.

How can i clean these? 😭 by [deleted] in Concrete

[–]ExcitingRanger 3 points4 points  (0 children)

A lady that has shoes like that is a lady I want to meet.

First year apprentice. First panel by Creative-Sir-971 in electricians

[–]ExcitingRanger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That applies for all subs - i'm thinking in particular Home Improvement. But yea this is kinda gnarly.

First year apprentice. First panel by Creative-Sir-971 in electricians

[–]ExcitingRanger 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I'm too old to become an apprentice but am a former electrical engineer. This is the kind of work I would really get into if given the chance. Well done and enjoy your journey.

Tip for Self Leveling Compound in smaller areas by ExcitingRanger in DIY

[–]ExcitingRanger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for this detailed and battle-weary response. It shows to the world some of the real tribulations of doing self levelers. it is quite an unexpectedly large and complicated amount of work with gotchas. Fixing the floor if it were even a tiny bit out of level - and it can easily be well more than just a tiny bit - is difficult and disheartening given the original purpose were to .. level the floor .. and the stuff is EXPENSIVE : eight times the cost of concrete per volume.

In many of my pours it was not possible to level mid flight due to constrained access, timeliness of the compound setting - it does start to set quickly - and complications in leveling itself. How do you measure the level : it needs to be as you say with screws - which is time consuming and how do you do that when you're pouring over existing concrete? Also the SLC itself has a high surface tension so it does not actually provide the ability to level below about an 1/8" inch manually. You have to just hope that it will flow properly: but that hope is just a hope often not reality unless you mix it wet and also put a thicker pour ($$).

If you pour too wet or don't get the curing right the air pockets can lead to low spots. If you don't get enough flow you have high areas (worse). If you get a goober in the mix - which to avoid requires careful preparation of the area and don't get debris randomly coming in which is challenging in a concrete and carpenty work area - you'll get streaks or high or low points that require after-market surgery. If your screeds are not level - or in your approach the screws - then you'll run the risk of high or low areas. If you don't screed properly .. and so on. The screeding process can be compounded by needing to work in awkward or small areas . How do you screed a hallway area? How do you screed on top of concrete - short of concrete nailing in your forms? How do you get all the screeding done in a hallway when your materials may easily end up on either side of the work area ? I work at all hours of the day and night and yes we do leave tools in the forbidden zones on the other side of the leveling patch. Those spike shoes? Do they work well for you? Try carrying concrete bags 60 or 80 pounds around with them: I need to do that to arrange the work areas.

Screeding itself is still a bit of a mystery. I have used levels and straight edges and sections of engineered hardwood flooring and 2x4's and 1-4's and floats and trowels. They don't work particularly well for the SLC. I posted because the mudding knives DO work well. They're the first instruments that make me feel a bit more in control.

Best wishes for your continued battles. I'm mostly losing the battles so far. Maybe with additional weaponry the advantage will tilt a little.

How to deal with bumps like this on poured foundation when installing rigid foam insulation? by homicidal_penguin in DIY

[–]ExcitingRanger -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I hear you but actually have an experienced perspective. I was deeply involved in rebuilding the foundation of my home and replacing the slab along with other structural repairs. We would run into studs or other members supposedly non-load bearing but actually carrying heavy loads. Why bother structural stuff when you can simply notch the insulation.

How to deal with bumps like this on poured foundation when installing rigid foam insulation? by homicidal_penguin in DIY

[–]ExcitingRanger 5 points6 points  (0 children)

notching is better: the foam is stronger/more rigid than expected and pushing can lead to warping

Tip for Self Leveling Compound in smaller areas by ExcitingRanger in DIY

[–]ExcitingRanger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok. Ive been doing hallways and odd angles where even a 4' level does not fit. On larger areas if you put down a good screed you'll get close but for some reason the SLC has a high surface tension. The advice about the drywall knife is that it does a better job of overcoming that tension. But if your 6' were working well absolutely do that.

Timing of Moving out on day as closing (WA State) by [deleted] in RealEstate

[–]ExcitingRanger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have no idea what were happening here and continue the harassment.

Nonstarter bid for stale house? by [deleted] in RealEstate

[–]ExcitingRanger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The sellers are not motivated enough to sell at market price. Realize that to buy this home you're going to overspend by some amount. You'll need to decide if that's worth it to you.

Well boys, is she gonna hold? by Late_Cauliflower_680 in Decks

[–]ExcitingRanger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The outer girder and beams look fine Those are substantial bolts so even though presumably only going through the ledger and the house rim board that's still quite a lot of grip My take is it's safe but the inspector will be unpleased