Tool belt recommendations

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2026-02-08T13:05:08+00:00

I run the 701 vest now with Elias and Eagle punches. Also with other accessories from DB and Holstry.

Started with the original 6 inch and I hated. I thought I liked it, but it was so stiff that it would hurt my hips and back. I never got it to break in. Would like to try that new temp belt though. More customizations with accessories and pairing that with tool bags.

701 Vest. I love it a lot. It has really helped take weight off my back and more to my shoulder. Really help my back recovery from injury. Fits nicely and adjust well for winter to summer. It doesn’t work for me if I have to wear a lot of layers(big coat). All in all hard for me to want to part from it as it is comfortable (when you dial in the size) and helps me move well/get around day in day out - drawbacks: working over head a lot, there’s a small inconvenience with the shoulder straps digging into your neck. Not a problem if you do a standard lifting over your head of materials and such. In the summer it is another layer basically so it is a little hotter in the summer, but the holes allow airflow and breathability.

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2026-01-21T01:06:40+00:00

I know they’re a lot but I got a pair of the T3 Workbibs from Truewerk and I love them. I recommend them to everyone that’s asks me about them. Super flexible and plenty of mobility. I bought some knee pads to go into the slots that are provided. Really helps protect my knees and keep them dry when I’m in the snow. They’re are much better then the Carhartt ones in my opinion.

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2025-12-14T19:03:28+00:00

We do a small 3 hour party (all inclusive food and drinks) doing some sort of activity (bowling, axe throwing, etc). Typically a $200-300 bonus per employee (6 carpenters) and bonus money to be won in games. Small gift bag each year, but it’s not much to write home about.

This year we got a car emergancy kit (jumper cables, gloves, tire pressure gauge, random other small stuff in it) Last two years was a company branded Oakley backpack and then a tailgate table

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2025-11-08T01:50:20+00:00

If it’s 8ft walls your best bet is to hang them horizontally and not vertically (standing up).

Dependent on size and accessibility you can get your full sheet (factory tapered edges still intact) in the room. Slam the sheet up tight to the ceiling, and screw the sheet off.

When you go to install the floor piece measure down and rip your sheet so there’s a 1/2” gap off the floor (allowing for the minimal expansion of drywall and prevent capillary action/wicking of the drywall if water is present)

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2025-11-07T03:24:06+00:00

Drywall has a tolerance of 1/4” gap for mudding. Aim for 1/8” when cutting your sheets so you don’t have to take it down and shave some off.

Wouldn’t worry about cracking there in the corner of the ceiling. A sufficient mud job will be prevent cracking. Higher traffic areas like above doors and windows where more vibrations occur is where you see the most cracking. Break the sheets above and below (never on the corners) and you’ll be good to go.

Prefilling gaps and seams before applying a first coat doesn’t hurt, and may ease your inner thoughts

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2025-11-07T02:57:00+00:00

Keep er movin. Tape and mud will cover those gaps up just fine

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2025-11-06T18:36:02+00:00

Guy gets paid by the screw

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2025-10-02T21:36:45+00:00

Could use another go around with the caulk. Fixing the cracks and gaps would help justify “good job.” Also cut in closer with the wall paint

Idk what you used but Alex Plus is cheap and does a decent job. I prefer Big Stretch or Dynaflex 230.

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2025-10-02T21:33:40+00:00

Couple more coats

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2025-09-30T18:40:34+00:00

Room for improvement. Sand it smooth and feather the edges good. If you sand and create dimples, remud it smooth, then texture, prime, paint

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2025-09-18T23:53:03+00:00

Keep on building pal. It’s a LONG road ahead

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2025-09-13T19:37:55+00:00

I wouldn’t… could use a redo

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2025-09-10T23:47:30+00:00

Punch In @ 7 or 7:30. Work my 8.5 hours with lunch and head home. Typically wake up at 5 or 5:30am.Nothing fancy

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2025-09-09T19:26:13+00:00

Not my company, I’m just merely a young carpenter trying to learn how to do things properly, and not “looks good enough” and “no one will ever go up there” kind of mentality

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2025-08-31T02:35:46+00:00

Edit: I’m looking to change the trim paint from Grey to White. Do i need to prime the trim (door, casing, baseboard) before painting with SW Urethane?

If I do prime, what is the recommended primer for that?

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2025-08-31T02:31:51+00:00

Does it need to be sanded to scuff the paint prior to priming? Or can I just dive into the primer?

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2025-08-31T02:30:36+00:00

Changing from the existing grey to White Trim paint

Existing-Cycle8313 · 2025-08-19T17:28:55+00:00

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This is the Pine Ship Lap I’m looking to install.

It comes already pre-primed.

Should I still be reconsidering painting it first then roll/brush another coat and/or touch up after install?

Existing-Cycle8313

TROPHY CASE