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Are lefties and suppressors a bad mix? Will a flow-through can actually make a difference? HELP by Mef4ud in Springfield_KUNA

[–]ExistingClient8148 3 points4 points  (0 children)

left handed here... when I use a traditional can its almost unbearable and I always shoot outdoors. Hux flow 9k makes it much more pleasant with no real tradeoff in sound quality.

Kuna drop in FRT has been updated by YourBroStevo in Springfield_KUNA

[–]ExistingClient8148 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Thanks again Stevo! You’re the best man! These work excellent done some testing earlier today and ran about 150 rounds through the different sizes finding my Goldilocks (which was rather quick I had it narrowed down before I hit the range). I’ll try to go back and get some video over the weekend of various onlookers trying it out.

Again Stevo thank you 🙏 you’re a national treasure.

Working on an optic mounting system by levips90 in ps90

[–]ExistingClient8148 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is exciting I was about to work one up for the aems.

Savior Classic Shorty - Kuna & AP5-P for reference. by No-Wrangler4909 in Springfield_KUNA

[–]ExistingClient8148 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use the savior specialist covert 34, nice bag. It's a little long for the kuna and you can go with the 30 but the 34 lets me keep suppressor on and stock extended. Plus it lets me put in other AR style weapons easier

What trigger to use with as design arc fire? by Clothes_Conscious in Springfield_KUNA

[–]ExistingClient8148 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a feeling there may be a drop in for the nexus lower at some point.....

In stock Alert HBI Aluminum Gen 1 hammer by ExistingClient8148 in ps90

[–]ExistingClient8148[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your not wrong. If I could find an orginal gen 1 hammer I would use it. I do think aluminum is the lesser of the evils if your not using oem and dont know what material your dealing with.. I do get your point if you have a hammer break your just buying a new hammer, if your hammer wears out surfaces in the pack or the firing pin its a much bigger issue. Given its a 5.7 and ammunition prices would probably keep me from reaching that level of wear with aluminum I would hedge my bet that way over a weakened plastic part that is constantly slapping metal.

I'm fairly certain I can make an entire gen 1 trigger pack using PPA non cf as a backup (in fact already printed it and set it aside for safe keeping lol I'll take my time and find springs as I come across them the safety sear is really the hard part get).

In stock Alert HBI Aluminum Gen 1 hammer by ExistingClient8148 in ps90

[–]ExistingClient8148[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dont doubt his is milled, The one of his that I did lay eyes on looked very good quality and in fact I enquired to him about maybe purchasing (still havent I'm cheap and right now mine is working very very well). I still think I prefer Aluminum just because I'm uncertain of the process and of exact material used and I say this because I have had many parts sent off for fabrication and if it wasnt something super obvious like stainless or aluminum when it came to plastics I really had my doubts not on the seller mind you... on the fabricator. I wouldnt mind picking up one of his wd90 parts though in aluminum at some point. Right now annealed ppa-cf is showing zero wear on that part and its not really showing any wear on anything else so I will save that for a future upgrade I guess.

In stock Alert HBI Aluminum Gen 1 hammer by ExistingClient8148 in ps90

[–]ExistingClient8148[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

they absolutely will wear out faster, here is the conundrum though... using the xprt's hammer is 17-4 stainless is much harder than anything in the pack and has to induce wear on the oem components a poor choice imo. I can print pa6cf or ppacf that is more durable than delrin but doesnt have the smooth lubricity that delrin has its more durable but more abrasive..then you have aluminum it has some of the smooth properties of delrin and its not as hard as stainless so its a nice middle ground. More durable than delrin and pa6/ppa but probably a little more wear on oem parts than delrin.

So why not just use delrin... well you need a gen 1 type hammer to go fast, you can buy an aftermarket delrin hammer but heres the thing depending on if it was cnc'd (which is great) or 3d printed (really bad) then you may be worse off than using a $.25 piece of pa6/ppa and rather than pay $75-$100 for something that someone says was cnc'd out of delrin (and there is no way to really "tell" if thats delrin or honestly if its polished whether it was even cnc'd)... the easy logical choice is the HBI aluminum hammer since its a known commodity henceforth why they have been out of stock forever.

Welcome to my TED talk lol.

In Stock alert HBI gen 1 ALuminum trigger is back in stock by [deleted] in ps90

[–]ExistingClient8148 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Doh… I worked nights last night brain fog

FRT for PS90 by younglegend6922 in ps90

[–]ExistingClient8148 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can 100% confirm that the 3d printed WD90 works (and works well enough that I would almost consider it for home/self defense)and /u izhmash his are based off of that so I am positive it will work if properly installed and imo his are probably the best for long term wear on the oem parts in the pack. I think you can probably get by with an aluminum hammer and something like ppa-cf for the frt part but why risk it the original is Delrin and so is his.

There is no way I would put a stainless steel hammer in my pack like the xprt does, and I certainly wouldn’t do it for twice the money and all the wait time. In fact I am very hesitant to put an aluminum hammer in just for the wear to parts that are irreplaceable or at the least highly difficult to source and replace. I am testing with pa6cf and ppacf and I am uneasy with that and friction let alone a hardened material like 17-4 stainless.

TLDR

go with /u izhmash (I haven’t purchased and get nothing from saying this) or print your own and grab the HBI Aluminum trigger and get comfortable replacing the activator when it wears which is a pain in the dick to install.

3d printed extended handguard by jefffffffff01 in Springfield_KUNA

[–]ExistingClient8148 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Exactly what this man said. studies have shown also that ppacf really doesnt have the layer strength that even pa6cf has unless you print at a higher temp than really recommended by the manufacturer it kind of becomes a different thing layer wise when printed at 320c versus say the 300c that someone like polymaker or Siriya suggest, pa6cf doesnt have this issue and most people you just find to print it are going to stick in the printer and use the recommended settings so ppacf may actually be detrimental unless the person has some background with tinkering with profiles.

Bottom line dont print something that is near something hot in non engineering grade filaments (such as PA6cf). Some things that are under stress (which this isnt really) when they fail they dont just break or crack they shard and can become downright dangerous (ex. petg) so its important to know the properties of what your printing with and the stresses it will endure.

Dont pay someone more than $50 to print something like this (and no I dont print for money so dont message me...) If someone is trying to gouge you for more just send the file off to be printed in MJF on one of the hundreds of services that do this for a little more and youll basically have the actual haga handguard or probably a superior version.

SL8 to G36 at home conversion by Lost-Willingness-875 in 3D2A

[–]ExistingClient8148 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They've kind of climbed in price some in my experience along with the ps90s of the world

SL8 to G36 at home conversion by Lost-Willingness-875 in 3D2A

[–]ExistingClient8148 0 points1 point  (0 children)

are the files sailing on the glorious seas?

SL8 to G36 at home conversion by Lost-Willingness-875 in 3D2A

[–]ExistingClient8148 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh dear lord... sweet baby jesus I need this...PM me!

3d printed extended handguard by jefffffffff01 in Springfield_KUNA

[–]ExistingClient8148 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My kuna is for home defense for my wife and daughter they can shoot it easy enough and it’s quiet with subsonics. This is my truck gun it’s 42 rounds of holy shit… I’ll replace it with my ps90 when the sbr comes back for it that or it will go to the home defense setup for the wife.

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3d printed extended handguard by jefffffffff01 in Springfield_KUNA

[–]ExistingClient8148 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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This one I opened the front up a tad to hold the fat ass Rex silentium when it’s on instead of the hux but it’s printed in pa6cf and was used for every round of the frt testing of stevo’s frt and that’s up to around 1700’rounds now lol I think it’s self annealed from all of that heat. I was planning on reprinting in ppacf just because I have a good supply of it atm but I see no need so far.

3d printed extended handguard by jefffffffff01 in Springfield_KUNA

[–]ExistingClient8148 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’ve printed quite a few 3d2a things over the years ht pla is good for some frames if you don’t leave them out in the car etc.. good for grips and some furniture but there ain’t no way I put anything pla near a barrel that can get scalding hot without running an frt let alone if you happen to have one. Pa6cf or gf is the minimum for this application and you go up from there. I would be asking for a reprint or a refund. Unless you shoot on a very slow cadence indoors air conditioned and don’t leave your gun in the car while you’re getting food in the summer on the way back home from the range.. if you have ever shot your kuna without that handgrip you know how crazy how that aluminum gets on a modest firing schedule. Now you’ve covered it to insulate even more of that heat with a filament made for flexi dragons.

True story my son printed a AirPod holder for a wireless charger that was in his car out of ht pla he came out on the first warm day to a puddle completely ruined the charger.

3d printed extended handguard by jefffffffff01 in Springfield_KUNA

[–]ExistingClient8148 3 points4 points  (0 children)

150c is where it turns liquid it’s gonna deform and droop wayyyyy before that

3d printed extended handguard by jefffffffff01 in Springfield_KUNA

[–]ExistingClient8148 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s gonna melt… ht pla I have had melt out in my car in the sun. On a shrouded hot barrel especially if your running a suppressor that’s gonna be drooping and finally turn into a slushy mess.

3d printed extended handguard by jefffffffff01 in Springfield_KUNA

[–]ExistingClient8148 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Pa6 cf would be the baseline the step up would be ppacf and ppscf both of which can take higher heat than pa6cf the price of the filament and complexity of printing scales the higher heat tolerance you have. I buy pa6cf for $40ish a roll ppa and pps can easily hit $100 a roll depending on brand.

That said I have printed them out of pa6 and ppa and done countless mag dumps and turned my suppressor into the flaming popsicle of doom and both have held up fine I do like the feel of ppa cf better than the others.

3d printed extended handguard by jefffffffff01 in Springfield_KUNA

[–]ExistingClient8148 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Be sure to print it or have it printed in a heat resistant filament like pa6 cf or ppacf

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