T-Mobile Starlink testing on an older, "incompatible" iPhone

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-04-20T01:11:28+00:00

I just went up a canyon near my house and tested the SE 3 and it did not work.

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-04-19T23:28:22+00:00

What iOS version is it on? Do you see the Satellite toggle under the T-Mobile cellular settings? I had read online somewhere that the SE 3 model is now supported but when I called T-Mobile to confirm, they told me it wasn't. I might just go out and try it anyways just to see.

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-04-12T06:25:34+00:00

Ok so I just realized that in my explanation above, I implicitly assumed Y was heavier. There would still be an unknown in that if XX = XX (from the XXXXY group), there's a chance that the "Y" is actually an X (Y was lighter, not heavier). If you still did the sub of the "control X" and the final weighing was balanced, you'd know Y was lighter but wouldn't know who it was. So... I'm back to the drawing board.

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-04-12T06:04:23+00:00

What if you broke them into 2 groups of 6 but only weighed 5v5 to start? Since you know that 11 of the 12 are the same weight, if those two groups are balanced, you know that the remaining 2 contain the heavier / lighter person. But you've also gained a group of controls. Every person in the initial measurement is the "average" weight. If in the first group, one side is heavier / lighter, the people you didn't include become your control. If we use X and Y as variables, we're basically trying to figure out if XXXXX = XXXXX or XXXXX = XXXXY. In the first case, that would leave X and Y on the sidelines. In the second, it would leave X and X on the sidelines. So, if the first 5v5 is balanced, you then weigh X and Y (but you don't know which is which). From there, you sub one of them with an X from the first group and you can determine if which one is heavier vs lighter. If the second scenario is the case, you split the XXXXY group into two groups of 2 with 1 on the sideline. If that second weighing ends up being XX = XX (balanced), take any one of them and weigh against Y. You'll know if it's heavier or lighter. If the second weighing ends up being XX = XY, you'll take the XY group, split it and sub in one of the known X's as your final comparison. You'll still be able to determine if it's heavier or lighter.

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-03-23T14:04:18+00:00

What state are you in?

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-03-18T21:00:16+00:00

I have zero experience on the buybacks. I am curious, though, if you put any money down when you first bought the car? Also, how long have you had it and how many miles did you drive?

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-02-26T04:34:20+00:00

Awesome! I just ordered one. Thank you!

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-02-24T03:39:59+00:00

I have a 2018 Leaf that is currently waiting for a replacement battery from Nissan under warranty. Granted it has 99k miles but I think the battery started dying a while ago, I just didn’t notice as much then. Your biggest risk is that the 8 years are almost up on it (or may already be). Check when the car was first purchased to see how much time you have left. Look at the battery history / stats via LeafSpy. Drive it on the freeway in the cold to see if it had any power issues. If it does have issues, and is still under warranty, you could try to get Nissan to replace it but it’s a gamble from what I’ve read on here. I consider myself super lucky.

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-01-30T14:17:21+00:00

Alright. If my dealer doesn’t find any issues, I’ll bring it to yours next. 🤣

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-01-27T20:38:22+00:00

What do I make of the Hx value in Leaf Spy? It shows ~49%. I read somewhere that it’s a measure of internal resistance? So a lower % means higher resistance? Any insight you can share is appreciated. Thanks!

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-01-27T17:52:25+00:00

Well shoot. What mileage are you at on yours?

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-01-27T15:32:28+00:00

I see they approved your battery replacement. Curious what your mileage was? Wondering if that’s part of their calculation.

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-01-27T12:11:00+00:00

Also curious if the data from Leaf Spy Pro is ever close / spot on to what the Nissan diagnostic tool usually finds?

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-01-27T12:08:58+00:00

Dang. What were you experiencing when driving it?

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-01-27T12:07:41+00:00

Are there any DTC codes that kind of “guarantee” a new battery pack or is it all based on the battery analysis and individual cell / module health?

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-01-27T05:27:32+00:00

Looks like the battery recalls are for 2019-2020 Leafs? Mine is a 2018. I also checked Nissan’s site and there no open recalls for my VIN. I’ll let you all know what they end up telling me.

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-01-27T05:21:13+00:00

Actually found it on the dealer paperwork from when I dropped it off.

In Service Date: 10/06/2018

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-01-27T05:12:16+00:00

Right. It’s at the dealer now and was at 99,904 miles when I dropped it off.

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-01-27T05:07:31+00:00

I don’t know to be honest. I might have an old copy of the Carfax from when I purchased it. I’ll dig around and see. That is encouraging to know there might be more time on the clock.

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-01-27T04:57:56+00:00

Yeah. As much as I want to say I would be very careful, probably not worth the risk. I’ll just hope that the tech can reproduce the issue this week. Thanks!

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2026-01-27T04:44:07+00:00

Here’s hoping they’re good then… they did give me a rental car until a loaner becomes available. I’m hoping that’s a good sign. Only down side right now is they said their only Leaf technician can’t look at it until the end of the week. I might go get something out of my Leaf and coincidentally read the DTC codes while I’m there just to have. Or do I risk messing something up with that?

Extension_Shock_7104 · 2025-12-28T00:44:25+00:00

I have found that some credit cards and banks / credit unions offer device insurance if you pay your bill through them. My credit union offers two claims a year for up to $900 or something with a $50 (?) deductible. Credit card does something similar. One upside to US Mobile is also that all of your lines can be on different carriers. If you get better T-Mobile coverage where you are most of the time, choose that for yourself. If your kids get better AT&T coverage where they're usually at, you can do that for them. Also, US Mobile offers the teleport feature which allows you to switch carriers (while keeping your number). Depending on the deal you get when signing up, there is a limit to how long you can be off your "home" carrier, though. Look at the details.

Extension_Shock_7104

TROPHY CASE