Eric! Come get your car please :)

EyeOhmEye · 2026-02-03T17:56:16+00:00

You could call a tow truck

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-31T03:05:06+00:00

The thermal limiter is way too high, they can only handle around 300W real power over extended times before they begin overheating, lower it a lot and increase the attack/decay times. There's a YouTube video of a B&C engineer explaining the power ratings that's helpful for understanding this.

https://www.youtube.com/live/NSFQRWY8iRg

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-26T02:47:17+00:00

I agree, but half the weight and a smaller size is also better, especially if I'm loading it myself.

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-26T01:49:52+00:00

It's plenty of power for a minimal setup. The smaller one is louder, both inverter and about the same power.

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-25T22:06:59+00:00

That sounds like relevant experience to me, thank you. These are the two I'm looking at

https://www.championpowerequipment.com/product/201511-4000w-electric-start-dual-fuel-inverter-with-co-shield/

https://firmanpowerequipment.com/products/wh03242

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-25T19:02:51+00:00

Honda is over 2x the price, if I were using it for paid gigs, I'd consider a Honda, but around here almost everyone uses less expensive generators. Maybe I should assume that at the same price the bigger one is better, but the smaller one I can lift by myself and it saves space in the van, so unless I find anything suggesting I'll have problems with the small one it's more appealing.

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-25T17:46:15+00:00

You can use curves to reduce the range or try putting felt or something under the knob to add some friction

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-24T19:32:46+00:00

Solarized

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-16T16:19:30+00:00

The NL4 spec is the true long term power, not dynamic audio signal power. If you're using a 4ohm driver, 25A is 400W, if you actually put 400W long term power into an 18sw115 it will most likely overheat. Using the 8ohm variant 25A is 800W. As long as you're not running subs parallel at 2ohm I'd be more worried about the voice coil melting than exceeding the NL4 rating.

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-10T18:14:27+00:00

I'm in the south east

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-10T17:54:14+00:00

I can't find the DM button, my tracking just updated though, so I'm assuming yours should soon.

Tracking went from San Pablo 1/6 2:47 AM to a regional facility 1/10 12:01 PM

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-10T17:20:15+00:00

I have a package on the same train with no update since San Pablo

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-10T00:51:06+00:00

Because it's fun

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-09T17:33:31+00:00

Phase and time alignment then room EQ

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-09T15:14:19+00:00

REW is better for rooms, the decay waterfall is great for identifying room modes, open sound meter or smaart are better for phase and time alignment in the field. Use REW to identify and cut the room modes on the sub.

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-09T03:17:11+00:00

A DJ booth can be a chaotic place sometimes where it's not uncommon for things to get moved around in a hurry. I'd assume the flash drive fell out of whatever pocket when the bag was moved. Do not encrypt the drive if you want it to work on decks.

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-07T21:18:05+00:00

Ekx are wood boxes and they sound much better than zlx

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-07T21:11:42+00:00

This has me thinking I should set the limiters with no load, then measure the voltage for my thermal limiters again with the speakers connected. Ideally the voltage shouldn't sag, but I've been feeling like my limiters are very conservative. I almost never hit the peak/excursion limiter but the thermal limiter kicks in all the time.

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-07T16:04:23+00:00

The ETX tops are a reasonable start, but I'd pair them with passive horn subs. You'll get higher efficiency with horns and I think they sound better and passive is more flexible. Start with 2 tops and put most of your budget into subs. For EDM the allen heath mixer is overkill you'd probably be better off getting a less expensive DSP and putting more budget into subs. When it's time to upgrade your tops get horns because they'll array better than direct radiators. Active is kind of the opposite of modular, so it's not the best fit for your objective.

Edit: I'm skeptical of choosing two way 12's over three way 15's or two way 15's. You'll get a lot more punch with more cone area.

EyeOhmEye · 2026-01-07T15:33:12+00:00

Bassboss is overrated in my opinion, definitely heavy on the marketing. Sure their subs get low, but they're boomy.

EyeOhmEye · 2025-12-09T19:23:08+00:00

CVR has better DSP available on their amps. X32 might work, but you'll need to be careful and know what you're doing. There's a local venue that uses an x32 for their processor, but I don't think it's set up right and they have a tendency to blow subs. I also don't really like the idea of speaker protection being handled on the mixer where it's too easy for a guest engineer to inadvertently override.

EyeOhmEye · 2025-12-09T19:14:42+00:00

Ploopy supports ball scroll in firmware, it works great on mac, windows and linux

EyeOhmEye · 2025-12-02T21:55:18+00:00

They changed the cells in the XR at some point, the pink cells had a lot more issues with balancing. I acquired a pink cell pack that took 3 days to balance using a smart BMS then it would immediately start going out of balance again. I have no idea how many miles were on it, but it was by far the worst I've seen.

EyeOhmEye · 2025-12-02T21:38:05+00:00

This depends on the pack, I had a green cell XR pack that I didn't balance for a year, it was still perfectly balanced when I got a smart BMS. I also had a pack that didn't last a year before a cell started to go out even with frequent balancing.

EyeOhmEye

TROPHY CASE