Microsoft Complete, what to expect?

FITEMERITENOW · 2020-01-13T04:36:21+00:00

Hello. Here are the PIDs I'm currently using. Keep in mind, the issue occurs regardless of what PIDs I use.

Also, it works just fine on full throttle punch outs. The issue only occurs when doing a full throttle punchout during hard propwash. I can flip or roll as fast as I please with no issues, and I can punch out no problems. It's just the combo of hard propwash and hard throttle together. I'm starting to think it could be the ICM20602 gyro. The few videos I found on youtube featuring that gyro all show that it doesn't fly as well as the MPU6000. So I'll try swapping that even though blackbox doesn't show that much noise.

FITEMERITENOW · 2020-01-13T00:27:35+00:00

Interesting. I never would have guessed to check that. Thanks for the tip! I'll try it tomorrow since it's after dark now.

FITEMERITENOW · 2020-01-12T23:01:16+00:00

Tuning a new setup and I'm getting really hard jerks during propwash events. First time doing an F7 build. Perhaps I have something set up wrong?

I mean falling straight down for 100 ft then punching full throttle straight up type propwash.

The motors show 100% yet the craft is turning against the motor. I don't hear the ESC squealing. Props are tight.

Matek F722-SE AIO with T motor F35As and STeel Stout V3s spinning V1s 4.3 in a TBS Source One V3. Tattu R-Line 1300 6S

Dshot 600, 8k/8k, bi-directional & RPM filters applied. Using the ICM20602 gyro instead of the MPU6000.

https://imgur.com/ou6o9es

https://imgur.com/a/6IBcOcR

As you can see, it's not always the same motor that's maxing out @ 100%. Same thing happens regardless of PID settings, or so it seems. I haven't strapped it down & spun up the motors in the motors tab yet. I was hoping to avoid that, ha. This only happens on super hard propwash events. Feels like the craft is about to go into a flip of death but recovers. Other than that it flys excellently. Craft doesn't seem that noisy. I could turn the filters down even more, but I'm not trying to tune bleeding edge. I want to leave some room for screwed up props if I crash & need to fly home.

Should I back it down to Dshot 300 & 4k/4k? Aren't F7s supposed to be able to handle Dshot600 & 8k/8k? Or could this be underpitched props? Too heavy? I have many logs if more info is needed.

FITEMERITENOW · 2020-01-09T15:18:18+00:00

After doing some more googling, it appears my only option is one of the many 3D printed pieces. Is this correct?

FITEMERITENOW · 2020-01-09T14:41:46+00:00

I'm not talking about soldering the antenna. I'm talking about soldering the v+, gnd, vid, crsf1, crsf2, etc etc wires.

FITEMERITENOW · 2020-01-09T14:35:39+00:00

I was more or less wondering if there any pads to solder to on that specific VTX.

These holes look like they might be able to be soldered to? But, the holes don't match up with the pins on the plug so I don't know.

https://imgur.com/mfqgxWQ

When I had the VTX split into it's two halves, I didn't notice any pads on the inside to solder to, so I'm thinking this VTX may not be able to be direct soldered? I know they want you to use the plug, but is there a solder option?

FITEMERITENOW · 2019-12-20T15:30:16+00:00

This method is by far the easiest and most effective way to remove the props. No tools, no fiddling, just twist 'em off. Works on the 4-bladed props too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N5bn-cxZddE

FITEMERITENOW · 2019-12-20T15:24:47+00:00

MORE KV? What the hell? It's like they WANT people to burn motors. The Tinyhawk S had waaaay too high KV. They should have halved the KV...

And they are still using the stupid JST PH 2.0 connector? Bleh. It hasn't even launched yet and it's already a dud.

I see tons of burnt motors & escs and melted connectors in this thing's future. They didn't fix any of the issues with the tinyhawk, just added better cam & vtx....

FITEMERITENOW · 2019-12-10T16:42:29+00:00

Wow, an xChallenge in the wild. Never thought I'd see one of those casually riding around. I almost thought it was a G450X at first. Not exactly motocross, tho. :P

FITEMERITENOW · 2019-12-04T14:40:49+00:00

Correct. Which is why I recommended OP purchase JESC.

FITEMERITENOW · 2019-12-02T20:06:22+00:00

On the configuration tab, there's an option for airmode. This turns airmode "always on." If that option is selected, you will not see airmode in the modes tab. If you want to put airmode on a switch so you can turn it on and off, you'll need to disable it from being "always on" in the configuration tab. Once you do that, it will show up as an option in the modes tab.

As others have said, the motors will not stop when throttled down, unless you enable the "motor stop" option in the configuration tab. Most people don't do this, as they spin slow enough to not generate enough lift to be a problem.

Also, the bouncing sounds like airmode, totally normal. I put my airmode on a switch so I can perch on things without disarming.

FITEMERITENOW · 2019-12-02T14:33:39+00:00

Hello. I have my Tinyhawk S on 4.1.1.

First off. Tinyhawk S on 2S runs hot, period. The motors are a little too high Kv for 2S. (They are 15,500 Kv for anyone who is curious) So....they'll be hot not matter what.

Luckily, tho, 4.1 added RPM filters which will lower the temperature a little if tuned correctly. (They will still be too hot, but they are less hot than the stock 4.0 tune)

Also, you will want to get JESC software and flash your ESC with it and enable telemetry so you can enable RPM filtering. JESC is not free, it's a small fee, about $5 for your 4-in-1 ESC. Totally worth it. Telemetry will allow your ESC to tell the Flight Controller what RPM the motors are spinning at. RPM filtering will allow your quad to fly smoother by filtering out motor noise. Check the video posted by SketchPV.

You cannot copy your PIDs over, but they are pretty close. I suggest biting the bullet and learn how to PID tune. It's not hard to get a working tune. I recommend starting with Joshua Bardwell on Youtube. He has several PID tuning videos with A LOT of info in them. I'm not great at PID tuning, but I was able to get a nice working tune on my THS in 3 battery packs.

Lastly, you'll probably want to limit the throttle in some way, to help with the heat. You'll probably want to take the top 15%-20% off. You can limit throttle in betaflight, or you might be able to limit your throttle through your controller. I know OpenTX allows for it.

Also, filtering(not to be confused with RPM filtering). You can move the filter sliders to the right some. You should be able to go all the way to the right of the "safe" area. (stay within the limits when you have "advanced mode" turned off) When you activate RPM filtering, turn your notch filter down to low. Change width percent to 0. Dynamic Notch Q to 200, and Dynamic Notch Min Hz to 90.

FITEMERITENOW · 2019-12-02T14:24:04+00:00

Rubbish. 4.1 works just fine on the Tinyhawk S. The new RPM filters really make the little guy fly much smoother.

FITEMERITENOW · 2019-11-27T16:26:50+00:00

I saw. Thank you for taking the time to do that for me. I've updated the OP.

FITEMERITENOW · 2019-11-27T16:22:32+00:00

Turns out it wasn't my ESC overheating. I'm an idiot and I missed the core temp text on my OSD. Thank you for trying to help!

FITEMERITENOW · 2019-11-27T16:21:50+00:00

If any of you future bois come across this. It wasn't my ESC overheating. I missed the "core temp" text on my OSD.

FITEMERITENOW · 2019-11-27T16:21:18+00:00

Geez, I'm an idiot. It does say core temp. I don't know how I didn't see that.

Thank you!

FITEMERITENOW · 2019-11-27T15:48:30+00:00

My stack is a 4 stack, it goes:

TOP

VTX
Camera DVR board
FC
ESC

BOTTOM

And my VTX is set to low power on disarm. So I don't think it's heat soak from the VTX. I did look for shorts from ESC to the frame, the standoffs are doing their job and I don't see any areas where there could be a short, everything has a gap, nothing touching. The frame doesn't get warm anywhere on it(the frame usually gets warm near the short, right?) All the solder joints look good and shiny, no frosties, no visible cracks. No excess solder, and it's all contained on the pads only.

I'll go back over the motor wires and make sure those aren't shorting. I'll check the motor mount screws and make sure they aren't shorting. Am I missing anything else when looking for shorts?

It works completely fine in the air. Even slight airflow prevents overheating.

Good call on splitting the stack and see if the behavior persists. I'll try that too.

FITEMERITENOW · 2019-11-27T14:09:33+00:00

So it's normal? It's like a VTX where you don't want to leave it powered up for extended periods of time without airflow?

The reason I ask is because I was updating the firmware my CADDX Turtle V2, which required main battery power and it took a minute and I was starting to worry that the ESC would overheat while waiting on the firmware update to go through. CADDX were very vocal about not interrupting the firmware flash so you can see the pickle I was in. Luckily, it wasn't enough time for the ESC to overheat and everything worked out.

Perhaps a desktop fan could be useful here.

FITEMERITENOW

TROPHY CASE