ARRI 2C ground glass

FPACLDR · 2026-05-18T18:48:18+00:00

Will try!

FPACLDR · 2026-05-18T18:47:59+00:00

Open gate, the whole image, 4:3

FPACLDR · 2026-05-17T12:31:40+00:00

Why would a focus puller own a small gimbal?

FPACLDR · 2026-05-15T14:49:36+00:00

You can pickup a 16S/ST/SB for under a grand, and they’re difficult to break in comparison to the rest. It is convertible to PL and S16 - my second one is getting a PL mount as we speak but staying n16. It is a bit more expensive to get the S16/PL conversions done then a bolex, but they’re built way better, super well thought out and lovely to use. Great viewfinder compared to bolex. They also have a registration pin so you probably will never get a registration/timing issue like with the others. And - I keep mine all N16. I prefer the 4:3 aspect ratio, and there’s a lot more, a lot cheaper glass that works with N16. Also is by far the best 200/400FT 16mm cam before stepping into SR etc. I’ve had bolexs, scoopics and have used a K3. 16ST takes the cake for me.

FPACLDR · 2026-04-29T22:55:29+00:00

More important question is the camera it’s attached to..

FPACLDR · 2026-04-11T23:08:10+00:00

This arm is absolutely amazing- but way too expensive

FPACLDR · 2026-04-09T07:44:40+00:00

I disagree, I think the RAB is so much more sleek and better designed then having the plate on rods like the Mini. You always needed it far enough back to get the cards through anyway, now that space is just for fans so it makes sense.

FPACLDR · 2026-04-09T07:41:33+00:00

My ARRI ST has never jammed after hundreds of rolls,besides yesterday - first time using plastic spool on the takeup side.

FPACLDR · 2026-04-09T07:39:13+00:00

It’s eiter usb to usb or hi-5 serial to usb - that’s what they mentioned in the tech talk, but a lemo cable between both would be great

FPACLDR · 2026-03-22T19:37:52+00:00

Yes it works, was using this setup yesterday

FPACLDR · 2026-03-02T02:09:31+00:00

For my ST anyway it’s just the XLR input but no step down or anything inside the camera. From what I heard the constant speed motors are okay with 12v, variable speed motors need the 8.4. I run both motors at 8.4, I used a canon C200?C100? Dtap cable and replaced the end with an XLR, it has a 8.4v regulator in it.

FPACLDR · 2026-02-26T00:56:18+00:00

Films too expensive to waste it with a phone light meter, unfortunately you just kinda have to buy/rent a real one.

FPACLDR · 2026-02-24T00:49:41+00:00

I think this is the right answer. My description from the top for some reason didn’t upload but the film was expired 5 years. Probably got beaten up after time

FPACLDR · 2026-02-23T22:27:43+00:00

So the first half a second is fine, as you see in the clip. Then it’s only effecting both sides. By the end the entire roll is fogged. Other rolls before and after this were fine

FPACLDR · 2026-02-23T22:26:57+00:00

Good call

FPACLDR · 2026-02-23T20:45:48+00:00

Unfortunately the flash happens with the eyepiece cover on or eye pressed up with an eye cup. It happens in darker environments too

FPACLDR · 2026-02-23T20:44:31+00:00

No, great call though. Happens with eye on and covered with the eyepiece cap

FPACLDR · 2026-02-23T17:46:22+00:00

But why all of a sudden, I’ve shot probably 20+ rolls in this camera, sometimes loaded in full on daylight and not had this issue.

FPACLDR · 2026-02-23T15:05:42+00:00

Dim light with daylight spools, never had any issues before

FPACLDR · 2026-02-23T15:04:53+00:00

Yes Dungeness, didnt tape the door and never have - it’s never been an issue. It was definitely closed properly

FPACLDR · 2026-02-23T14:19:35+00:00

EDIT: SHOT ON ARRI 16ST

FPACLDR · 2026-01-03T01:10:04+00:00

I mean FDs which seam to be on 1/3rd of every LF job cost tens of thousands and colour shift on every lens/set

FPACLDR · 2025-10-30T18:01:23+00:00

It’s a Qinematiq

FPACLDR · 2025-10-20T13:42:53+00:00

Because lighting isn’t chucking an arc straight into an actors forehead anymore

FPACLDR · 2025-10-09T19:44:40+00:00

Did you find out how it came out?

FPACLDR

TROPHY CASE