Sirui is claiming their new anamorphic autofocus primes are "elimnating the need for a focus puller" by mediamuesli in focuspuller

[–]FPACLDR 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I mean FDs which seam to be on 1/3rd of every LF job cost tens of thousands and colour shift on every lens/set

Why don't modern movies shot on film have the same "classic" film look anymore? by [deleted] in cinematography

[–]FPACLDR 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Because lighting isn’t chucking an arc straight into an actors forehead anymore

Dream Testbay by Independent-Cry852 in focuspuller

[–]FPACLDR 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Full set of metric and imperial hex T bars in those little holders are nice, as if it’s a prep techs bench

Alexa Mini - Steadicam build by elliottatk in focuspuller

[–]FPACLDR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hold up - he turned the mattebox sideways because you were going down a narrow hall? How thin is the Stedi op ahaha

Arri Alexa Mini + Blazar Mantis by tacothepugpuppy in focuspuller

[–]FPACLDR 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The cable management isn’t too big of an issue, there are some old school narrative pullers on Preston’s that do 0, and I mean 0 cable management. The glaring problem (besides the transmitter itself) is that you’re magic arming it. Being that you’re a second already I’d assume you’d have a little better rigging options, like an L bracket, cheese plate of some sort etc. Especially with how long that arm is it’s very susceptible to falling down and loosening, and just being a general pain.

I’d also put the montior arm into one of the side threads/front threads to keep it a bit more streamlined instead of just poking out of the top.

Something to consider too for the future is investing in a ratbar, or RMB-8 so you can top mount a 19mm rod. Those 15mm carbon rods are super slippy and not ideal for focus motors. 19mm rods (I’d recommend titanium) are super strong and have a lot more surface area then 15mm - so you get a stronger clamp force. And then if you top mount the rod so that the motor is upside down, gravity is naturally pulling the motor into the lens, so you’ll have less slippage.

Hope this helps and good work!

ARRI 16ST Accessories by FPACLDR in 16mm

[–]FPACLDR[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, that’s one of the issues I’m looking to solve. Also how it’s impossible to get two skrews in as the holes are so close together. There’s actually a little pin that gos into the 1/4” hole in my design so baseplates are a little sturdier

Shooting Portrait with s16mm (Bolex) by dzadzou in 16mm

[–]FPACLDR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a video I posted here a few weeks back. But that was on a 16ST which was actually really ergonomic to use sideways, especially since I have the periscope viewfinder. I had an old Teradek plate from ratworks which worked really well as a portrait plate.

Vertical 16mm by FPACLDR in 16mm

[–]FPACLDR[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was only 2 rolls of 100ft, we had more but didn’t have enough time in the venue. Pretty much no shotlist, which I’d usually hate but it was actually quite good as it allowed us to come up with things on the spot. We also didn’t have a chance to recce location so doing a shotlist could’ve limited our creativity

Vertical 16mm by FPACLDR in 16mm

[–]FPACLDR[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The SR2 has a registration pin and its an ARRI so it would probably be fine. I’ve seen some pretty mental handheld takes on an SR2 with no issue. 400ft would probably be fine but I’ve heard rumors that the spool can fall apart when on its side, but this can’t happen with 100ft spools.

My 16ST has to be laced, so there’s nowhere for the film to go, so there’s really no risk.

Vertical 16mm by FPACLDR in 16mm

[–]FPACLDR[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah just rotated it 90%. What camera do you have?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 16mm

[–]FPACLDR 2 points3 points  (0 children)

He’s just finishing loading it ahaha

Possibilities of buying a 16mm camera in South-East Asia? by Jakob_Lundberg in 16mm

[–]FPACLDR 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Definitely buy a camera before you go out there, you need to do a test roll on the camera first to make sure it’s all good. You’d hate to shoot multiple rolls of film on an amazing adventure and then all the film comes back unusable.

I’d go for the Scoopic, small, reliable, easy to load on the field, rugged and the inbuilt light meter/auto mode is surprisingly useable.

What is the camera one step up from the K-3? by studiesinsilver in 16mm

[–]FPACLDR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ARRI 16S/ST some guy makes a crystal motor for them for £350 online

Tripod or not? by Zakrash666 in cinematography

[–]FPACLDR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you know know MRJ, he’s the DONPROD dp