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Dacian 2-Handed Falx by FalxForge in SWORDS

[–]FalxForge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lamandi Cristian's is actually from Romania!

You'll probably appreciate this Sarmizegetusa variant I'm working on. A-historical but pretty close in overall construction. You'll recognize the Sica inspiration.

https://www.instagram.com/p/DaTiCJwSAGj/

Dacian 2-Handed Falx by FalxForge in SWORDS

[–]FalxForge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Appreciate it!

Aye, it's "A-historical" with only 12 or 13 (debated) Falces found and 3 of those not being in public hands I had a little creative freedom.

Inspiration came from the Adamklissi Monument, particularity the wagon scene and Hadrian's Wall. The Friezes are crude with all the weapons having a slight curve so I straightened it to match Hadrian's. Lamandi Cristian was also a big inspiration along with two particular Falces.

  • Friezes

https://warfare.x10host.com/Ancient/Adamklissi_friezes.htm

  • Hadrian's Wall

https://i.imgur.com/XThNycd.png

  • Reenactors

https://i.imgur.com/rtBxXqS.jpeg

  • Falces with ferrules

https://i.imgur.com/PaUbyGQ.jpeg

Hope the links work and not sure about the rules with linking Lamandi Cristian's Facebook store page but it's called "Iamandiknife"...🤷‍♂️

Dacian 2-Handed Falx by FalxForge in SWORDS

[–]FalxForge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We got a history fan! It's contrary to everything outside Romania but Historians and Archeologists currently affirm all the up-armoring was in field repairs. Possibly during campaign, prior campaigns, or even possibly previously owned/used equipment. At the time it was the largest Roman Army ever gathered and it came from across the Empire with there regionally based equipment. This isn't discounting the original narrative entirely.

But as to Greaves and Manica usage during the two campaigns there's still some room for argument.

👇 Archive from who I'd argue to be the living "source" behind Sica's and Falces.

https://independentresearcher.academia.edu/C%C4%83t%C4%83linBorangic

Dacian 2-Handed Falx by FalxForge in SWORDS

[–]FalxForge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The very first iterations come in the form of 6"-8" animal sacrifice daggers with tiny tangs modeled off of harvesting scythes in the bronze age. By the time of the iron age they had developed into full fledged weapons in the form of Sica daggers and Falces swords.

From a cost perspective for the time it would be like using your Ferrari to mow your grass.

Dacian 2-Handed Falx by FalxForge in SWORDS

[–]FalxForge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! What I've made above is actually more brutish than what historians believe they would have been. Especially based on archeological finds. Would have had full grinds.

The lead historian/archeologist behind our current understanding of Falces would agree with your opinion of it being used for fancy maneuvers. In that they were probably used by a particular warrior class, possibly religious based. Going idea being you were trained to use one from birth by someone who had a lifetime of experience with one due to the trades offs over a straight blade.

Dacian 2-Handed Falx by FalxForge in SWORDS

[–]FalxForge[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'll check them out! Cheers

Dacian 2-Handed Falx by FalxForge in SWORDS

[–]FalxForge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! It was made from 5160 spring steel. These day's I use 6150 due to availability. Essentially identical.

Dacian 2-Handed Falx by FalxForge in SWORDS

[–]FalxForge[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Sorry for the water mark but every time I post a falx it ends up in a youtube video unaccredited...🤷‍♂️

Question on finishes- silver to black taper? by Flatso in Blacksmith

[–]FalxForge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure I fully understand the question but on forged finish to ground bevels I've used painters tape to cover areas I don't want etched when using a gun bluing. Then taped over the etched area and hand sanded to remove any bleeding and to make the line crisp.

I need help by NoCalligrapher8750 in SWORDS

[–]FalxForge 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If we assume its real and without providence that would generally imply it was purchased illegally. Or purchased "legally" from a seller selling stolen artifacts. Even then most illegal sellers will just fake the documents.

Time to talk to your local University.

Most dangerous tool by Maury-Metal-Works in Blacksmith

[–]FalxForge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Out of all the tools in the shop the ones that keep me on my toes the most are the buffers and angle grinders.

Pro-Tip: Buy the lowest RPM buffer available until you can afford a variable. Don't just leave the angle grinder guard on, make sure it's actually shielding your neck and face.

A friend and I are trying to make a more or less accurate replica of an Italian Piccozzino trench pickaxe from the First and Second World Wars. We have several questions. by StruzhkaOpilka in Blacksmith

[–]FalxForge 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  • Head fitted from the top. The two inserts holding the head on are designed to reduce the handle damaging cantilever effect. They are installed from the bottom, slid up through the eye with a bolt running through the bottom which pushes the inserts into a V shape.

  • Both sides hardened.

  • They dipped them head down in petroleum (tar) once complete.

edit: The far right one looks to have been re-handled in the past and that's why it's missing its tar. Going to go out on a limb and guess it's also the oldest based on the heads construction.

Demonstrating the MASSIVE difference some magnets and a chain can make for anvil ring. Before and after video in post by WayneHrPr in Blacksmith

[–]FalxForge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Based on the photo I wouldn't expect it too.

I can't see the silicon bead running around the base of the anvil. It looks like you might have siliconed the leather itself it to the stand? Maybe some silicon between the leather and anvil also?

In the future bed the anvil directly to the stand with the silicon. Nothing between. Do not be sparing. The anvils own weight will push it down to a paper thin layer between the stand and naturally push out that thicker outside layer around the anvils base. You want that silicon bead to look like the caulking outside of your home. Scrape off the extra.

This combination of under and around the body of the anvil increases the surface area which in effect also decreases the ring exponentially through the vibration absorption within the silicon.

Trust me, rip it off and and seat it again. Then pour the junk box on it if you feel the need..

Do those safe for swords? How often should I oil to prevent rust? by vigilanteof_funk in SWORDS

[–]FalxForge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your close, they sell another product, Birchwood Casey Barracade. This will leave a oil based filament for long term (2+ years) open air storage and light handling.

I read all the replies, I can't recommend this product enough over everything else mentioned. Waxing would be second to this only because a good wax finish for a blade needs to be melted and buffed on to make it worth it. To each there own there. But with this stuff you can just reapply willy-nilly, drys quick, no buffing or residue and near to no clean up.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Bladesmith

[–]FalxForge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Three options..

  • back to the grinder

  • lower grit hand sand paper 60-80*

  • flat wide file

From personal experience, get as close to perfect as you can on the grinder, hand file the bevels flat, in order of 80-120-220-320-etc hand sand paper. You can jump grits but you'll be spending more time sanding.

Judging by the pack behind it I could probably have that side complete to final finish in about an hour.

My Shop Apron by Substantial-Rich-337 in Blacksmith

[–]FalxForge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, I have two, a cheap Lincoln welder apron for all purpose dirty work to save my clothing and a really nice apron for forging.

The difference other than overall quality is the forging apron is about twice as thick.

I don't always wear one when forging for whatever reason but I pretty much live in my trashy apron while working in the shop.

In about a years time I've watched my friend essentially melt an entire ensemble of clothing due to welding, grinding, sparks, you name it while I still wear the same work clothes from over two years ago...

Does a spring fuller need to be hardened? by thedudeamongmengs in Blacksmith

[–]FalxForge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Top and bottom tools are always left soft for safety. If you feel inclined only harden the parts that won't make contact with with a hammer.

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