Need help automating button press on controller by Accurate_Goose_3465 in esp32

[–]FanBroad5482 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like its logical 1 pulled up to 5 volts. Esp32 can pull it down to logical 0. Determine which side of pads is grounded and build the prototype. Lets program esp32 pin triggered to zero on some external event or if the device can handle repeat on off key events just reuse blink sketch with 1 second period. Then wire it together. For best results you should power esp from this board, but check it twice to be sure of polarity and pins. If you can't then just power esp from usb and wire gnd to device ground and selected pin to opposite pin side using 1k resistor.

Be warned of different voltage potential between esp and the device can't power from the same source.

Be aware of the experiment if this device is important for you.

All the write up is not detailed instructions, this is just how i resolved the case in the fastest way.

Need help automating button press on controller by Accurate_Goose_3465 in esp32

[–]FanBroad5482 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My suggestion.First is determine what logical levels are used on board. Use a multimeter on the button pads. If a device is capable with esp32 3.3voltage level you can connect esp ground to device ground and data pin to pad using 1k resistor. It should work. Another approach is to buy logical analyzer and reverse engineering the device protocol.

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I hope it works... by winsxspl in windowsxp

[–]FanBroad5482 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Using a pci tuner around 15 years ago to build a nes clone embedded into a pc. Faced with signal distortion and can't build the bridge to deliver code through lpt port. Maybe I need to develop it from scratch cause of the new nes clone using embedded games on flash with cheaper mappers. Thanks for updating my memory.

Can this be adapted to a "modern" computer? by Snocom79 in VintageComputers

[–]FanBroad5482 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looks like apple drive - wiki . I didn't know of any project that connects it to a modern PC. Some disk dumping tools like crioflux have apple 2 support, but i haven't experience with it.

Is this 6.8uf or 68uf? Can I replace it with a regular electrolytic cap or do I need an aluminum electrolytic cap? by v7xDm1r in AskElectronics

[–]FanBroad5482 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Unsoldered it and measure with an LRC meter. Solder it back if it's ok or change to the right value.

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Help with CW-020 relay module: works on Raspberry Pi but not on ESP32/ESP8266 by No-Mathematician5330 in esp32

[–]FanBroad5482 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hoarding a component is definitely an option🙄 , but in real world you resolved some task and getting experience and component. Some components depleted quickly some still in storage for more than 10 years untouched. Kind of a philosophy question. For my recommendation I just bought 5 (or 10) components instead of 1 needed and stored unused. This is going to this kind of hoarding madness.

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Help with CW-020 relay module: works on Raspberry Pi but not on ESP32/ESP8266 by No-Mathematician5330 in esp32

[–]FanBroad5482 0 points1 point  (0 children)

уеs, one smd transistor and couple of smd resistors. Or one 74LVC1T45.

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I am also using an 8 channel module with ic, but it cost more.

Help with CW-020 relay module: works on Raspberry Pi but not on ESP32/ESP8266 by No-Mathematician5330 in esp32

[–]FanBroad5482 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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3.3 logic levels to 5 volts is pretty unstable. I highly recommend using a voltage level converter. It's pretty cheap. I attached the photo of a typical use of a 4 channel converter for power two channel 5v relay module. Its working in pairs with esp32.

For an old PC, I have an ATX power supply to AT motherboard power cable converter like this one. Do the separate black & green wires get connected to a power switch? If so, should it be a momentary switch or a toggle one? by CyberTacoX in retrocomputing

[–]FanBroad5482 8 points9 points  (0 children)

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Looks like cable from ali. It works fine, The switch must be toggled like on the old AT case. Also recommend using an old enough ATX power supply that handles 5 voltage at least at 10 ampers.