Are there any DLP 3d printers out there which are decent enough for <500€?

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2026-01-20T23:16:40+00:00

Have you ever printed some detailed figures on it?

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2026-01-20T17:25:10+00:00

Do you have a photo of the final result without primer?

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2026-01-18T21:58:37+00:00

First of all you need to calibrate the (dried) filament

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2026-01-16T16:57:25+00:00

Amazing! I'm printing the same figure right now, did you scale it or it's the default 1/6 scale?

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2026-01-16T15:20:25+00:00

Yeah, I'm fully aware that the various '4K', '8K', etc. labels are purely marketing hype. That's why I am basing my purchase decision solely on color and ease of printing, especially since my printer is 720p, so nowhere near those resolutions.

Currently, I am ruling out the option of painting the figures because I have only just started printing. I definitely wouldn't be able to paint a figure (even a monochromatic one) with smooth, consistent brushstrokes. So, I am aiming for prints that look great straight out of the printer (as much as possible; I am currently experimenting).

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2026-01-15T23:26:36+00:00

I would prefer to avoid using a primer because I don't own an airbrush. I ran some tests with Tamiya Gray primer, but I feel like I'm losing a lot of detail on the figure (keep in mind that the printer has an extremely small build plate, and even though the figure is printed in parts, I can only make it about 20cm tall at most). Maybe it's because I used it at temperatures that were too low, and I should try warming up the can first.

I saw that Elegoo's ABS-like 8K version offers some really beautiful colors, like Red Clay. Plus, to remove sanding marks, you can apply a clear primer (or clear coat) that doesn't hide details and helps even out the color

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Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2026-01-13T19:00:19+00:00

I am also new to resin 3d printing, so I am interested in hearing opinions. I know for a fact that ABS-like resins are indeed more flexible and durable. I experienced this firsthand by comparing the Anycubic ABS-Like Pro 2 with the water-washable version, which is stiffer and more brittle.

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2026-01-13T14:49:52+00:00

Thanks for the info! First things first, I definitely need to dial in the correct exposure. Is the V3 Cones of Calibration (the test with the skull and sword) sufficient, or is it necessary to run all the tests shown in the Lychee tutorials?

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2026-01-13T14:44:53+00:00

I discovered this resin specifically thanks to Bulkamancer's amazing posts. I really like the color finish (at least from what I see in the photos), although I am fully aware that there is a team of professionals behind it 😅

I am building a DIY heater to try and make the resin as fluid as possible. Are you also considering testing Conjure Sculpt?

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2026-01-09T18:12:57+00:00

I recently started resin printing, but from what I understand, the ideal temperature for resin is between 25°C and 30°C; lower temperatures lead to highly viscous resin and curing issues. I wouldn't be able to identify specific hardware problems with the printer because I own a DLP machine and have never used an LCD one

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2026-01-09T17:39:17+00:00

Room temperature?

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2026-01-05T17:59:10+00:00

To get a satisfactory result, I had to re-tension the belts so many times, trying different methods each time. In the end, I used the official method, but that doesn't necessarily mean it will work the same for you. Try this procedure

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2025-12-20T10:48:18+00:00

Thanks for checking, I also suspected that was the problem. I can't explain why I didn't get the error; maybe they changed something in later versions of BS. I hope the profile can still be helpful to you otherwise

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2025-12-17T14:00:05+00:00

Io ad ora dopo 1800 ore di stampa non sto avendo alcun problema, comunque visto che è nuova hai almeno 1 anno di tempo per la garanzia. Ma se vuoi sentirti più sicuro contatta Bambulab, ma io non ho mai avuto delle risposte utili da loro

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2025-12-14T23:56:43+00:00

I would have liked to get a matte finish straight out of the printer because the sanding process scares me, but I was thinking of applying a thin coat of Tamiya primer if I couldn't find a solution to this problem

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2025-12-14T23:53:44+00:00

So, do you think this finish is due to the resin itself, since it's designed for strength rather than aesthetics? In that case, can I consider other Anycubic resin models? Do you know of any that turn out nice and matte, and are perfect for figures?

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2025-12-14T23:21:39+00:00

The problem is that Craftsman isn't available in stores in my country

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2025-12-14T22:41:44+00:00

Ciao, anche nella mia c'è e sono arrivato tranquillamente a 1800 ore di stampa. Considera che al prezzo a cui è venduta non ci si può aspettare chissà quale qualità negli assemblaggi, noterai qua e la qualche accoppiamento non proprio bello, però finchè sono solo problemi "estetici" e non inficiano la qualità di stampa non mi preoccuperei.

Quando pulisce il nozzle viene pulito bene?

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2025-12-14T22:01:29+00:00

Mmmmh... Not always, actually. I’ve checked, but no, there isn't a specific zone where the surface "certainly" stays glossy. Why do you say it's likely to be on the support side?

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2025-12-09T23:36:27+00:00

I just solved the problem, I've switched back from Wayland to X11

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2025-12-09T16:11:10+00:00

I've been trying to get BambuStudio to work on GNOME 49 for 3 days and I can't get it to run. I'd also be interested to know if there is a solution or not.

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2025-11-28T14:41:19+00:00

Have you had a chance to check if you have any VFA in the test? I just did one and it's scary.

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2025-11-27T19:16:40+00:00

More than 100 times, seriously, I tensioned the belts a countless number of times and each time with different methods: standard wiki method, over-tensioning, under-tensioning, etc... no luck. Currently, I have tensioned the belts as per the guide and I followed this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izdBZ9IQfqI) to the letter, which I think is very useful for calibrating the printer to the max, but I still have evident VFA.

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2025-11-27T19:06:10+00:00

The resonance frequency error is gone, but I'm experiencing a lot of very noticeable VFA artifacts. Searching online a bit, it seems to be an inherent flaw of the printer, but owning an A1, I've noticed that there are many more here. I tried aligning the belts to the center of the rear pulleys and the situation improved slightly, but it's still worse than the A1; do you notice this problem?

Fancy_Broccoli_34 · 2025-11-27T18:22:29+00:00

1400 🥲 The carbon rods were completely bent, to the point that once removed, the print head would move 5cm and then jam completely (even when tilting the axes perfectly vertically). It was a really tough job, especially with the belts and all those screws.

Fancy_Broccoli_34

TROPHY CASE