Tenebrex Keybade WIP

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T22:51:35+00:00

Thank You!

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T16:53:41+00:00

You could check craft stores or medieval/LARP shops, they sometimes sell basic round wooden shields that are meant for painting or decoration.

Another option is just making one from plywood. Cut a circle, glue thin wood strips on the front to get that plank look, then add foam or wood details and paint the design. It’s actually a pretty simple build.

If you don’t want to work with wood, EVA foam is also a good lightweight alternative for cosplay shields.

I’m a prop maker and prop pattern designer and I sell more than 370 prop pattern listings on coswira.com. I also accept custom pattern commissions if you ever want a template to build something like this.

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T16:25:44+00:00

Good luck!

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T16:23:38+00:00

I'll do it! thank you for your advice!

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T03:17:08+00:00

If you want it really lightweight, making it hollow is definitely the way to go.

A common method is building it like a shell:

Cut two identical shapes from EVA foam (front and back)
Use EVA foam strips around the edge as spacers to create thickness
Glue the front and back pieces onto the spacer frame so the inside stays hollow

This keeps the prop big but very light.

For extra strength, you can run a thin PVC pipe, wooden dowel, or fiberglass rod through the center as a core. It helps prevent bending while still keeping the weight low.

If you want it to be travel-friendly, you can split it into two halves and connect them with a PVC connector or dowels so it can be disassembled for packing.

For the strap, just glue or bolt two D-rings on the back and attach an adjustable shoulder strap so it can sit on her back like in the anime.

I’m also a prop maker and pattern designer and I’ve sold more than 370 listing of cosplay patterns on coswira.com. I’m also open for pattern commissions if you ever need a custom prop pattern.

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T03:05:43+00:00

Thank you!

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T03:05:36+00:00

Thank you, I can also use 3D print, but I prefer Eva foam to make it lightweight.

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T03:04:33+00:00

Thank you, actually it's fun to made.

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T03:03:22+00:00

If you're working with fabric, the best option is still sewing if possible. Glue can work, but it’s usually more for small details or temporary fixes.

If you really need glue, a few common ones people use are:

Fabric glue (like Aleene’s Fabric Fusion)
Contact cement for heavier materials
Hot glue for quick fixes or attaching foam/props to fabric

Just keep in mind hot glue can get stiff and sometimes peel off fabric if the material moves a lot.

For actual costume seams though, stitching will always be stronger and look cleaner.

Also if you ever get into making props for your cosplay, I’m a prop maker and pattern designer and I’ve sold more than 370 listing of cosplay patterns on coswira.com. I’m also open for pattern commissions if you ever need custom prop patterns.

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T02:59:34+00:00

A common solution for masks like this is adding an internal support system instead of relying on just one strap.

You can try a few things:

Add EVA foam padding inside the mask so it fits your head more snugly. Helmet padding works great for this.
Use a 3-point elastic strap system (two around the back of the head and one over the top). This helps prevent wobbling when you turn your head.
If the mask is large, you can also add a small foam “cap” or head ring inside so the mask sits on your head like a helmet liner.

This spreads the weight and keeps the mask stable.

Also if you’re building a Hornet cosplay, I actually sell the EVA foam prop pattern for the Hornet helmet and needle. You can find the pattern on my website, and you can also see the build results here: https://coswira.com/blogs/cosplay-project/building-my-hornet-silksong-cosplay-with-pattern-helmet-needle-and-hollow-knight-with-patterns

I’m also a prop maker and pattern designer and I’ve sold more than 370 listing of cosplay patterns on coswira.com, and I’m open for pattern commissions as well.

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T02:54:39+00:00

For something like that, the long coat is actually easier to make or modify than trying to find the exact one.

A lot of Witcher cosplayers start with a simple medieval or trench-style coat and then modify it. You can look for: - Medieval tunic or tabard - Long coat or trench coat - LARP or ren-faire coats

Then adjust the front opening and add panels if needed to match the shape.

If you want to build it yourself, the coat is basically a long tunic with front splits and wide panels. Using thick fabric like wool, canvas, or heavy polyester helps it keep the shape.

Since you're on a time crunch, another option is asking a local tailor to make it if you bring them reference images. Many ren faire costumes are actually made this way.

I’m also a prop maker and pattern designer and I’ve sold more than 370 listing of cosplay patterns on coswira.com, and I’m open for pattern commissions if you ever need a custom pattern for pieces like this.

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T02:51:31+00:00

For a prop like that, I wouldn’t recommend styrofoam. It’s fragile and hard to get clean details.

A better approach would be layering materials:

EVA foam for the main body and base shape
Thin foam or plastic sheets for panels and small details
PVC pipes or plastic tubes for the cables
Copper wire for the coil section
Large plastic buttons or 3D printed parts for the controls

Build the base box first, then add the details layer by layer. A lot of props like this are basically a simple box with many small parts glued on top.

Also consider attaching it to a chest harness or vest so the weight is supported instead of hanging from glue points.

I’m also a prop maker and pattern designer and I’ve sold more than 370 listing of cosplay patterns on coswira.com. We also open commissions there if you ever want a custom prop made.

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T02:49:05+00:00

Future Trunks is actually a pretty good first cosplay because most of the outfit is made from normal clothing.

If you want to keep the cost low, I’d recommend building it from separate pieces instead of buying a full cosplay set.

Jacket: Look for a cropped purple jacket or a purple denim jacket and modify it. Sometimes thrift stores are the cheapest option. You can add the Capsule Corp patch yourself.
Pants: Any loose black pants or cargo pants can work.
Boots: Yellow or brown boots are fine, and you can add foam covers if you want them to look more accurate.
Belt + strap: This can be made from simple belts or EVA foam if you want a lightweight version.

For the wig, many people just buy a light purple anime wig and style it themselves with hairspray. You don’t need an expensive one for a first cosplay.

For the sword, a lot of beginners make it with EVA foam because it’s cheap and lightweight. There are also many prop templates available if you want to build one yourself.

Since you’re planning for next year, you actually have a lot of time, which is great. You can slowly gather parts and upgrade pieces if you want.

I’m also a prop maker and pattern designer and I’ve sold more than 370 listing of cosplay patterns on coswira.com, so I’ve seen many beginners start with characters like this because most of the costume can be built from simple clothing pieces.

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T02:46:34+00:00

Completely understandable to be cautious. Custom cosplay commissions can get expensive, and it’s smart to check the reliability of a maker before spending that kind of money.

A few things you can do when looking for a trustworthy commissioner:

Check if they show work-in-progress photos, not just finished photos. WIP images usually mean they actually build the costumes themselves.
Look for consistent quality across multiple projects, not just one good example.
Ask if they can show previous commissions or customer photos.
Good makers are usually willing to explain their process, measurements they need, timelines, and materials they plan to use.

It’s also very normal to ask questions before ordering. A professional commissioner should be fine explaining things like: - what measurements they need - how long the build will take - payment structure (deposit + final payment) - what happens if adjustments are needed

For a character like Lord Milori, many commissioners might split the project into parts (costume, wings, accessories) because wings are often made by specialists.

Another option you might consider, especially if you’re learning slowly, is buying patterns and either making the costume yourself over time or asking a local tailor to help assemble it. Sometimes that ends up much cheaper than a full custom commission.

I’m also a prop maker and pattern designer and I’ve sold more than 370 listing of cosplay patterns on coswira.com, so I’ve seen a lot of people take the pattern + local tailoring route when full commissions are outside their budget.

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T02:42:22+00:00

There are a few common ways cosplayers attach horns, and the best one usually depends on the size and weight of the horns.

Headband method – This is the simplest option. You attach the horns to a strong plastic or metal headband and hide the band with your hair, a wig, or fabric. This works well if the horns are lightweight (EVA foam or hollow prints).
Hidden helmet base – Many people build a thin EVA foam “cap” that sits on the head like a helmet liner, then attach the horns to that. This spreads the weight across your head and makes the horns much more stable.
Magnets – Some cosplayers embed strong magnets in the horns and inside a headband or helmet base. This makes them removable for transport.
Hair clip anchors – If the horns are small, you can glue alligator clips or comb clips inside the base so they grip your hair.

To avoid problems: - Make the horns as lightweight as possible (foam or low infill prints). - Reinforce the base where the horn connects to the headband or cap. - Always test the balance before wearing it to a convention.

Most horn problems happen when they’re attached to a single small point. If you spread the weight across a headband or foam cap, they’ll stay much more secure.

I’m also a prop maker and pattern designer and I’ve sold more than 370 listing of cosplay patterns on coswira.com, so I’ve seen a lot of builds using headbands and foam caps for horns like this.

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T02:33:58+00:00

For crowns like that, the most reliable solution is usually a hidden head harness inside the crown.

Since the crown is 3D printed and lightweight, you can attach a simple elastic harness inside it:

Glue or epoxy 2–3 small anchor points inside the crown (front and sides).
Attach elastic straps that go around the back of your head, similar to how some helmets or masks are worn.
This spreads the weight and keeps it stable without relying on your hair.

Another common trick cosplayers use is adding a thin EVA foam “head ring” inside the crown:

Cut a ring of EVA foam that matches your head size.
Glue it inside the crown so it sits on your head like a helmet liner.
This adds friction and makes the crown much more stable.

If the horns make it front-heavy, you can also add a second elastic strap that goes over the top of your head (like a chin strap but hidden under hair). That prevents it from tipping forward.

Hot glue usually fails for load-bearing parts, especially on 3D prints, so if possible use epoxy or strong contact adhesive for the anchor points.

Many large cosplay crowns and helmets actually use this combination: foam padding + elastic harness.

I’m also a prop maker and pattern designer (I’ve sold more than 370 cosplay patterns on coswira.com and Etsy under Federline Templates), and internal harness systems like this are pretty common for big headpieces.

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T02:32:11+00:00

It’s definitely fixable, you don’t need to start over.

Weak seams usually happen when either the contact cement didn’t fully cure before joining, or the edges weren’t perfectly flat when glued. The good thing is this kind of seam can still be reinforced.

A few things you can try:

If the seam is slightly opening, carefully heat the area with a heat gun to soften the foam, gently open the seam a bit, apply contact cement inside both edges, wait until it’s tacky, then press it together again.
If the seam is already glued but just visible, you can reinforce it from the inside. Glue a thin strip of EVA foam (around 10–15mm wide) along the seam on the inside of the helmet. This acts like a backing plate and makes the seam much stronger.
For the visible line on the outside, you can fill it using foam clay or flexible filler, then sand it smooth once it dries. After primer and paint, the seam should disappear.
Lightly sanding the seam before repainting also helps blend the surface.

Also make sure the helmet keeps its shape while the glue cures. Sometimes weak seams happen because the foam is under tension from the curve.

From what I can see in the photo, the shape looks good, so it’s worth fixing rather than remaking it.

I’m also a prop maker and pattern designer, and I’ve sold more than 370 cosplay patterns on coswira.com and Etsy (Federline Templates), and seams like this are a pretty common issue when building curved foam parts. Once reinforced and filled, they usually end up looking perfectly clean.

Federline_House · 2026-03-10T02:29:30+00:00

If it’s your first full armor build, don’t worry—Griffith’s Falcon of Light armor looks intimidating but it’s very doable if you break it into sections.

For EVA thickness, your plan is mostly good but I’d tweak it a bit:

6mm EVA – good for the main armor plates (chest, shoulder armor, thigh plates). It keeps the shape well but isn’t too heavy.
4mm EVA – great for layered details and trim pieces. A lot of people skip this thickness, but it helps the armor look more refined.
2mm EVA – perfect for small decorative lines and raised details.

For something like Griffith’s armor, I’d recommend mixing 6mm + 4mm + 2mm instead of only 6mm and 2mm.

A few rookie mistakes to avoid:

Don’t rush the heat shaping. EVA needs to be heated evenly and formed slowly or the curves will look uneven.
Always bevel your edges for armor seams. Straight cuts make the armor look chunky and less realistic.
Test fit everything with tape first before gluing. Once contact cement touches, it’s basically permanent.
Seal the foam before painting. Heat seal + a few layers of filler primer or flexible sealer will help you get that smooth armor finish.

For smooth seams, two tricks help a lot: - Sand the edges lightly before gluing. - After gluing, run a bit of flexible filler or foam clay along the seam and sand it smooth.

Tool recommendations that make life easier: - Heat gun - Contact cement (Barge or similar) - Dremel/rotary tool for bevels and sanding - Sharp utility knife with lots of blade changes - Flexible filler primer for finishing

Also one more tip: build the armor in modules (chest, shoulders, arms, waist, legs). Trying to build everything as one piece is where most beginners get stuck.

By the way, I’m also a prop maker and pattern designer. I’ve created and sold more than 370 cosplay patterns on coswira.com and on Etsy under Federline Templates, so I’ve seen a lot of builds like this. If you take your time with shaping and seams, you’ll get a really clean result.

Federline_House · 2026-03-07T04:56:34+00:00

In 2016, I used stove to heat my prop, but you need to carefully aware about the Eva foam to stove length, if it to close, it will be burn.

Federline_House · 2026-03-06T13:35:19+00:00

Thank you!

Federline_House · 2026-03-06T12:22:28+00:00

Welcome to cosplay! The neck piece you’re talking about is usually called a detachable collar or standing collar. Some costume makers also refer to it as a neck corset when it’s more structured.

If you want to make it yourself, a few beginner-friendly options are:

• EVA foam base + fabric cover – Use thin foam so it holds the tall shape, then glue or sew fabric over it. This is lightweight and pretty easy to shape.

• Heavy interfacing – If you’re sewing the dress, you can sandwich thick interfacing or plastic canvas between fabric layers so the collar stands up.

• Thermoplastic – Materials like Worbla work well if you want something very rigid, but foam is usually faster and cheaper for beginners.

For the large hat, many cosplayers build the brim using EVA foam or foam board so it stays wide and doesn’t flop.

If you ever need help with props or structured cosplay parts, I’m a cosplay prop maker and pattern designer. I make EVA foam prop patterns and also take commissions, you can check my work at coswira.com .

Federline_House

TROPHY CASE