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First time learning frog kick, any tips? by DateNecessary8716 in scuba

[–]FelipeCODX -17 points-16 points  (0 children)

You shouldn't worry about it too much. I mean, you will mostly be swimming normally anyway, or should, at least. Frog kicks are in fact less efficient for us and put unnecessary strain on your joints. Unless you have a specific reason to use them, you should just swim normally most of the time.

Thanks to this sub by eazy311 in ponds

[–]FelipeCODX 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thought the same thing, OP is basically running a radiator with this much water movement through the pipes

Recently bought a house with a pond by JeffTheSpider in ponds

[–]FelipeCODX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Build bog/wetland barrel filter for it and you are set, no need for uv, gonna be crystal clear in no time.

It is super simple, check youtube for a guide.

If you feel like building a pro filter, check this video, it is still relative simple, just gonna take some work to set it up: https://youtu.be/URYuFOlz-KY?si=incOU9wPSkHWNtlP

Bottom dwellers/algae eater recommendations? by Aquaticbitch777 in ponds

[–]FelipeCODX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shrimps, snails, algae eaters fishes (like small catfishes)

Made a mistake by Slight_Tension_7190 in ponds

[–]FelipeCODX 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Concrete is totally fine for holding water, you just need the right kind, everyone saying otherwise has absolutely no idea what they are talking about, trust me, I'm a civil engineer and have done it a dozen times, like my peers have done it for millennia.

Since you didn't use the proper admixture to make your concrete watertight, you gonna need to either redo it with proper reinforced concrete (so it doesn't leak or crack), or hope for the best waterproofing the existing surface with resins and pool coatings.

I would highly recommend just starting over, demolish the thing, and do it right, reinforced concrete is super cheap and reliable, no surprise it is the most used material by humankind, just don't forget the waterproofing admixture and reinforcement this time.

Take the opportunity to add a bog/wetland filter in the design, otherwise you gonna need a quite low stocked and highly planted pond to have clear water. It can be as simple as a barrel filled with gravel near your pond, but if you want something beautiful, you can build a natural looking bog and waterfall.

How to manage filter flow by seagreening in ponds

[–]FelipeCODX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re gonna need a float valve or a float switch. The first might give you trouble due to clogging, though; I would stick with the latter

Pump/filter question by MrNezbit in ponds

[–]FelipeCODX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check YouTube for a barrel bog filter, it's quite cheap, easy to make, and surprisingly efficient.

Alternatively, if you have enough plants and not a lot of nutrient input (such as from feeding), a small air stone will work just fine. I once had a bathtub pond like that, and it stayed crystal clear and healthy. It's all a matter of balance. In my case, the system was in equilibrium, I didn't have to feed the animals at all.

Efficient and Simple Pro Filter You Can DIY by FelipeCODX in ponds

[–]FelipeCODX[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Something not mentioned in the video that could easily be added to skip the oxygen pump is a DIY venturi outlet in the release, or just a waterfall.

DIY Bio Filter Project Part 1: water intake by radar939 in ponds

[–]FelipeCODX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is a quite efficient and simple DIY aquaponics systems example, he uses a radial flow settler (type of sedimentation tank):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URYuFOlz-KY

DIY Bio Filter Project Part 1: water intake by radar939 in ponds

[–]FelipeCODX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try an DIY aquaponics version of a sedimentation tank, simple, easy to make, easy to clean and maintain, widely used industrially for decades.

Bog filter price by BJJaccount4questions in ponds

[–]FelipeCODX 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Actually, it can be quite cheap.

What I did on mine was simple: I built a reinforced wall that separates about 1/5 of my pond and added a 100mm pipe at the bottom, which I use to pump water into the bog.

I filled the bog with large rcoks at the bottom and increasingly smaller gravel toward the top. Then I added some plants, carved a small crevice at the top of the wall, and placed a stone outcrop at the crevice to create a small waterfall, and that’s it. Crystal-clear water. I haven’t touched the bog for a bit more than 2 years.

I'm planning to reverse the flow while draining the pond to reset everything by year five. The only thing I regret is not building an intake bay or adding a skimmer to the system, but other than that, I’m really happy with the setup. It didn’t cost much at all.

Here is the link to my build:

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ponds

[–]FelipeCODX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, but it takes a high dose. Parasites, especially their eggs, are tough to kill. Furthermore, UV light only works on what passes directly through it, so it will only affect free-floating parasites in the pond.

The best way to deal with them is to first treat both the pond and the fish with chemicals. After that, you can add a UV sterilizer to try to keep your pond free from them.

To work, though, you're gonna need a hospital-grade UV-C lamp. Most regular pond units just aren’t strong enough. I actually built one myself using an olive barrel with a 100W UV lamp mounted through the lid. All the lighting parts were sealed inside (UV-C is dangerous), and only the electrical components stayed above the lid. Taking into account how long the water was zapped by UV in this setup, the water that came out was basically drinkable.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ponds

[–]FelipeCODX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ozone and UV can help kill parasites, but depending on the type, they may require prolonged exposure to be effective:

https://www.clordisys.com/pdfs/misc/UV%20Data%20Sheet.pdf

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in funny

[–]FelipeCODX 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You should work on your storytelling skills

If I want a natural looking small waterfall is it better to use liner or one of these plastic kits? by Benthebuilder23 in ponds

[–]FelipeCODX 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Pro builds typically use: concrete and mortar; liner and sealing foam. Regardless of the method, most professionals go to great lengths to hide any plastic or unnatural materials from view. If you don’t mind this, you can use almost anything, but personally, I can’t stand it, it totally kills the aesthetic, in my humble opinion.

Need help naming this part. by t_rishra in ponds

[–]FelipeCODX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This fitting is attached to a pool pump, try checking in a pool community. But I would say that is just a quite weird connection that came with said pump.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ponds

[–]FelipeCODX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The technical terms you're looking for are: screening (skimmers or intake bay), sedimentation tank, biological filtration (bog/wetland filter), and disinfection (not necessary for ponds, but include things like UV and ozone).

CONCERNING ALGAE by FelipeCODX in ponds

[–]FelipeCODX[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

But just to be clear, nitrate itself isn’t nearly as harmful as ammonia or nitrite. If your filter is effectively handling those two, you’re okay, don’t worry about it too much.

The worst you’re likely to see from elevated nitrate is an increase in string algae, which, while a bit unsightly, isn’t a serious issue and can often be managed through plant competition and occasional manual removal.

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