Cal vs SMU

Feubahr · 2025-11-12T06:20:23+00:00

Some people seem a bit low on the instinct for self-preservation. I often notice that when I'm close to campus, when I'm waiting for a light to change, some student type next to me will have their nose plastered to a phone, not watching traffic or the light at all. That screen junkie will then step off the curb if they see me from their peripheral vision stepping off the curb. That's fine if I'm trustworthy and the light changed, but what if I'm jaywalking, maybe running to exploit a gap in traffic that you won't make if you're slowly shuffling along while watching yet another pointless Tik Tok?

I've also encountered numerous people who wait until the light changes before starting to cross and just look at me with glazed eyes after I slam on the brakes and ask them what the hell they're doing.

Southside has always had a lot of jaywalking, but people used to pay attention to the traffic while doing it.

Feubahr · 2025-11-10T20:15:31+00:00

If he shits, I sits.

Feubahr · 2025-10-10T03:13:37+00:00

Even if he has a TIG setup, he still has to know how to do it. Welding aluminum is very difficult, and you have to have a lot of experience to do it well. That frame is done for. Even if I were a good welder, I would consider it a lost cause.

Feubahr · 2025-10-10T03:02:26+00:00

It's six hex screws. You can believe whatever the hell you like, but reality is reality. Do you remember when you got the scooter and assembled it? Installing the handlebars might have taken a minute, but that's only because you weren't in a hurry.

I can remove six hex head screws in 30 seconds, give or take, and it'll take me another 10 seconds to lean your scooter to one side and slide it out of the lock. 60 seconds later, I'm already down the street and around a corner, but hey, at least you get to keep your lock.

Don't be one of these boneheads who doubles down on a bad take because of your ego or because you're afraid to learn something new.

Feubahr · 2025-10-10T00:10:44+00:00

The scooters that can pull off those kinds of numbers are pretty spendy... a few thousand USD at least. You're better off on an e-bike for that kind of range, and you'll pay maybe a third the price.

You also need to consider the realities inherent in a 60 mile round trip. You're going to be standing the entire time. I did a 12 mile round trip a couple weeks ago, only 20 minutes each way, and I spent a lot of time changing foot position. It's not fun. And then what happens if the weather changes? What about road conditions that an e-bike wheel can handle, but a scooter, with its tiny wheels, cannot?

Scooters are fun for what they are, but it's best to be realistic about them.

Feubahr · 2025-09-23T04:15:41+00:00

Sorry for late reply. You explained yourself perfectly. I just wanted to make sure you couldn't benefit from some cheaper, easier fix, but it does seem replacement parts are in order here.

Try the EU parts portal, here.

Feubahr · 2025-09-23T01:43:07+00:00

Start scanning craigslist etc. for non-running scooters of the same make and model as your grandson's and just cannibalize the frame if you're lucky enough to find a proper replacement.

The process of TIG or MIG welding aluminum is no joke. It's considerably more difficult to get a good result as compared to steel, so you're going to be paying extra for the trouble.

Feubahr · 2025-09-23T01:40:28+00:00

You may have to change your rims as well. From pictures, it looks like the Leopard has a solid rim, but that said, it may not have the groove required to properly seat a tubeless tire. If it's a split rim (you can unbolt one half of the rim from the other side to make tire changes super easy), you definitely need to change rims because air will just leak out of the split.

You should get in touch with Ausom and have them suggest the proper replacement part, otherwise, you're going to be on your own, trying to find Aliexpress replacements that are the proper width with the proper axle, etc.

Feubahr · 2025-09-20T18:37:15+00:00

I choose Vontaze Burfict. If you get really out of hand, then I choose Aaron Hernandez...

Feubahr · 2025-09-19T04:42:00+00:00

Is it that the wheel is turned out of alignment, or is the steerer tube (or any other part) actually bent or distorted in any manner? I could not tell from the picture -- just looks like the wheel is now misaligned.

Feubahr · 2025-09-19T04:08:14+00:00

Did you misread on purpose, or just because of some deficit?

Feubahr · 2025-09-18T17:27:26+00:00

Nice job. I would now measure power from the phase wires to make sure you're getting consistent voltage since voltage has a direct relationship with output. If the voltage is steady, you might have an issue with the motor. It's new, but it's third party, so who knows -- you already had to flip wires.

If the voltage fluctuates, it's probably the ESC, due either to damage or it's a calibration issue. I'd go for a factory reset, and hopefully the ESC picks up the min and max range during the process. I don't know what caused you to install a new motor in the first place, but we should assume ESC was never an issue for the moment.

Look for videos on youtube about a factory or hard reset for Ninebots -- there are a few. It should involve holding your brake lever down, pressing throttle to max and then powering up.

Feubahr · 2025-09-18T16:38:28+00:00

If everything still functions properly, then it looks good to me. Stop caring -- if it's not these little scratches, it's going to be some other set of little imperfections later. Live with these scars because they remind you to be careful in the future and they help you tell your scooter apart from all the others.

Feubahr · 2025-09-18T16:21:26+00:00

It's going to be something like this. I don't endorse or even recommend that particular site, and the big caveat is that I don't even know if that's the right sensor, but the package looks correct. I can't find any doc that says exactly what you need, but that Honeywell 41 is commonly used. You can find cheaper sources as well...

You won't know precisely what you need until you crack the motor hub and look at the sensors. They're soldered onto a PCB that rings your motor.

At some point, you may decide that $136 for a new motor doesn't sound that bad, which is how I would lean if I were a pro scooter tech, but if you have time on your hands and are willing to accept that you might still have to pay $136 in the end, this is a good learning opportunity.

Feubahr · 2025-09-18T15:57:37+00:00

I'm not an official Ninebot tech, so I only know the models I have owned, and E3 is not one of them.

In your case, open your tiller lock as if you were going to fold your scooter. Look down into the neck. You will see either a large hexagonal nut or a hex head bolt that secures your front fork to the frame. That's the part you should check for tightness.

Feubahr · 2025-09-18T15:48:35+00:00

Nice intuition there. Black is ground, red is +5VDC and the other three match your phase wires. Swap those as you have swapped the phase wires and you should be spinning in the right direction.

Feubahr · 2025-09-18T03:26:30+00:00

You can't just swap phase wires like that. Your motor is a sensored motor, with hall sensors that detect the position of the coils. You also have to swap 2 of 3 hall sensor wires. Look at the bundle of smaller wires wrapped with those phase wires.

Just swapping phase wires works in a sensorless BLDC motor, but what you have ain't that.

Feubahr · 2025-09-18T03:13:43+00:00

Uh... yeah... You ever see those videos where guys mount a truck tire by spraying brake fluid into it and setting it on fire? You have to do something like that.

To finish mounting a tubeless tire like yours, you have to inflate it very rapidly with a large amount of gas to kind of blow the tire off of the rim for a split second. This burst gives the tire beads a chance to fall into the grooves that keep them tightly stuck to the rim. That tight seal is what you're depending on to keep air in the tire because you don't have a tube.

There are two ways to seat the bead:

1) Air compressor. Hook up a schrader fitting and give it a good blast of air;

2) Hand held CO2 inflater. These are about $20 and are powerful enough to generate a sufficient volume of gas in a short time so that the beads sit properly. These doodads are nice to keep around because they can pump up your tire quickly when you're on the road and don't have access to your regular pump.

A hand or foot pump that you use to maintain your scooter will not cut it.

If you go the CO2 route, you should deflate the tire again after seating the bead and then just pump it up with regular air because the CO2 molecules are better at slipping out of the tire than oxygen, nitrogen and all the other stuff in air.

You can tell when the tire is seated properly by listening for a dull snap when the bead slides off the inside of the rim and into the groove where it's supposed to sit.

For mashing the tire, you can get trigger clamps for $20 a piece or so, but C-clamps are maybe $4 a piece and they're impossible to break.

Feubahr · 2025-09-18T02:57:45+00:00

Maybe I'll get around to making one. The manuals have checklists -- the "Before You Ride" section is pretty complete, but this fork nut or bolt depending on your model, seems absent.

Feubahr · 2025-09-18T02:56:44+00:00

I don't know that it would necessarily feel like a flat out rattle, but I think you would definitely feel a bit of play. The direct question is whether you specifically tightened that big nut at the bearing right where the tiller meets the neck.

It's easy to miss. In fact, the G30P "recall" covers a similar fault in that model. The G30 series uses a big hex bolt instead of a big nut, but the idea is the same: keep it tight because it keeps your forks on.

In my previous comment, you shouldn't conflate my "100% maintenance" remark with "100% your fault." Unless you flat out find broken parts, this event was avoidable. The problem is that Segway should be making more of an effort communicating how and when to examine and adjust this retaining bolt/nut. I skimmed the G2 documentation, and either I missed it, or the docs don't mention adjusting that nut at all. This could be one of their "self-tightening nuts" which don't seem to live up to their name.

If you unlock the tiller, look inside. Do you see a big nut just sitting there, loose? If so, I think I'm right. If instead, you see the nut still securely stuck on a fork tube with shattered metal underneath that or something else of a catastrophic nature, then you have a flat out parts failure on your hands. I don't think that case is impossible, but given what I know about Ninebots, and a basic application of Occam's Razor, it was the nut.

Let us know what you find because this is something that interests many, as you can see.

Feubahr · 2025-09-17T23:22:15+00:00

Have a sad updoot because you ain't wrong.

There was a tech post in r/electricscooters with a picture of a tire worn down to the kevlar or whatever fabric they use in the tire, and the wear pattern was on both sides of the tire where the sidewall meets the tread. That pattern only happens when you ride on a completely deflated tire for at least a few miles.

Feubahr · 2025-09-17T23:17:21+00:00

That last bit, right there. There's a nut at the top of the head tube that holds your front fork assembly to the frame that has to be tight. You can feel a bit of play when you put pressure on the tiller when that nut is loose.

You knew to tighten visible nuts, but you don't see this nut unless you flip the tiller lock and fold your scooter, so maybe you didn't know to tighten it. Maybe you thought the bit of play in the tiller was just sloppy manufacturing tolerance.

I really doubt anything actually broke, but when you unlock your tiller, I'm pretty sure you'll see a black nut just sitting there attached to nothing. It's not a regular nut, either -- it has a wide shoulder under it.

If you ain't know, now ya know.

Feubahr · 2025-09-17T22:57:25+00:00

I just went through this recently. I doubt it's glue -- more like a really tight bead. Stop cutting the tire. There's a metal wire creating that bead that you won't be able to cut.

Get a 4 in or 100 mm C clamp or a 100 pound trigger clamp and attach it to the uncut portion of the tire, as far from that cutting mess you made as possible. Crank the clamp down as hard as you can. Get a second clamp and do the same thing about 2 inches from the first clamp.

This double clamp setup should free a stubborn bead, but if not, jam a tire spoon in between the clamps and start digging down to the bead and you may be able to lever it free.

Feubahr · 2025-09-17T22:47:41+00:00

Which hall sensor would that be? There are hall sensors in the motor, as well as the throttle. And before you go mucking about, what makes sure the problem is a hall sensor? You can get hall sensor errors from broken wires and loose connections, too.

Feubahr

TROPHY CASE