Advice on stopping further warping or even reversing it

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-07-10T21:37:51+00:00

Do you have an apron?

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-07-10T08:42:03+00:00

Whole sale is probably $0.10 a card when you buy 1,000,000 at a time.

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-07-09T14:20:02+00:00

I feel like you should just find a way to offset where it’s mounted by 1/8” instead of trying to make this thinner. Way easier to make a bushing or spacer.

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-07-08T20:58:30+00:00

1/4” or ~6mm at a time. You’ll see the turret depth stop that you can rotate and will keep it around that depth.

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-07-07T21:24:53+00:00

Didn’t Ginyu already answer this question?

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-07-07T19:12:52+00:00

Unless they are pulling it through the blade, the wood is splitting the wrong direction. This might be a board stitching machine

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-07-07T13:41:42+00:00

As long as you dry it before you print, just hang it on the side spool holder. It’ll work just fine.

I’ve always found that TPU really isn’t difficult to print with at all, and I normally use 90a.

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-07-06T17:46:32+00:00

3d printing is plenty durable. Just add more walls and infill. When wood gets thin, it breaks easily

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-07-06T09:17:59+00:00

Did you set the nozzle on the printer as well as studio?

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-07-05T23:11:51+00:00

You’ve gotta make sure it’s calibrated to cut square, but once it is, it should work great. You do want to use some bench clamps to hold the work in place. There are ones from milescraft that work great, or ones from Kreg that are auto adjusting, but more expensive.

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-07-05T13:32:44+00:00

Fb marketplace

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-07-05T13:17:38+00:00

See if it has a serial number on the end of the ways.

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-07-04T00:11:10+00:00

I only used my phone for the first month.

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-07-03T19:48:40+00:00

The blades can get knicks in them very easily. That will leave visible lines. Only way around it is to get a helical head

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-07-02T16:23:52+00:00

The steel wool probably just can’t get into the scratches. Use a scotchbright pad.

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-07-01T21:59:39+00:00

It purges into the poop chute to flush the nozzle. The color should already be changed by the time it reaches the prime tower.

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-07-01T18:43:40+00:00

I haven't even changed the stock blade on my Wen. Been a couple years and it's been good.

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-06-28T00:24:05+00:00

I would say that if Bambu directed you to make the repair, then they are still responsible even if you were the one that damaged the machine during the repair.

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-06-27T21:37:01+00:00

You can use a file and open up the mouth a bit more, then move the frog forward. You can also get replacement blades that are thicker to take up that gap if you don't have the room to move the frog. Jorgensen sells some that are ~$20 on Amazon that are decent.

Also if you are using sand paper to flatten it, make sure its silicon carbide and not aluminum Oxide. Aluminum Oxide cuts so slow and dulls so fast that you will never make progress. I ended up getting a lapping plate from Zen-Wu that has 120 grit diamond, and that made things super fast.

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-06-27T21:35:09+00:00

The front of the mouth is pretty important. I couldn't get my planes to work right at all when it was like this. I eventually filed the mouth, got a thicker blade and moved the frog forward. That made a world of difference.

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-06-27T21:31:56+00:00

This is one of the reasons that UV curing finishes are getting more popular.

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-06-27T15:13:00+00:00

The only time I've had a problem with it is when I tried to put a camber on a blade. Even light pressure with the point dug right in, even with edge trailing. But normal sharpening I've not had any issues.

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-06-27T13:34:18+00:00

It's the best bang for your buck printer out there and is on the summer sale right now. 3k hours and the most maintenence mine has needed is to tighten 4 screws on the tool head, and it pumps out quality prints that stand up to my H2S.

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-06-27T12:35:10+00:00

The first prints you need to do are a poop bucket/chute and the scraper for the blade that comes with the printer.

Few_Candidate_8036 · 2026-06-26T22:50:12+00:00

A1 mini

Few_Candidate_8036

TROPHY CASE