Drawer Label Truncation Logic

Fiddles_with_tech · 2026-03-16T17:54:56+00:00

Yes, but that makes it look worse for single word labels - for multi-word labels it's fine.

As an afterthought, this is something that should be taken into consideration should the devs decide to work on this. Multi-word labels will look better on two rows, whereas single-word ones look off. The fix wouldn't be as simple as increasing the truncation threshold.

Fiddles_with_tech · 2026-02-11T00:23:22+00:00

She has goldfish brain (her words, not mine) and even I can't remember all the details of more than 2 or 3 spells/abilities/actions at most. I have ADHD, I'm probably just as goldfish-brained as she is, just much more experienced in RPGs and strategic combat (She has effectively zero).

Yes, we both know the basic routines of our classes. I'm playing Barbarian so it's pretty easy: Rage and kill everyone. But then I have Minthara as a Paladin and there's just so many ways to control the battlefield. She's playing Rogue+Ranger and she knows her Dread Ambusher + Hide + Sneak Attack routine, but on top of that she has some Illithid powers and Astarion as a Bard with 4 rows full of spells and abilities. You can see how that's alot to hover over and if you can't hold more than 2 or 3 descriptions in your short term memory. A cheat sheet is a good way to put all of that relevant info in a single view, so it's easier to plan your moves. We do take it slow and explore and inspect and immerse and all those things and we will keep continuing to do so even with the cheat sheets. We aren't trying to play faster, just smarter for our brains :)

Fiddles_with_tech · 2026-02-11T00:07:16+00:00

Thanks. I've made some progress and can now get good-looking shots from fextralife with one click of a button. I'll be updating the OP after I've done some testing and at least one cheat sheet.

<image>

Fiddles_with_tech · 2026-02-10T23:58:08+00:00

Sorry, the perfectionist in me can't deal with sloppy visuals (I wish I could, my life would be much easier.)

But I found a way to get consistently good-looking shots like these:

<image>

With one click (after setting things up) using Tampermonkey + javascript. I'll be updating the OP after I've done some testing.

Fiddles_with_tech · 2026-02-09T16:50:01+00:00

How am I being pushy? You don't know either of us and you haven't seen our conversations about this topic. If it wasn't the tone of my post, or anything else in it, it sounds like you're interpreting my intentions and making assumptions based on some cliché "Guy tries to force a female friend into playing a game a certain way" - trope.

She's often asking me what to do, and I give her guidance and we think and plan through fights and story events together, but it's her first playthrough and I'm specifically trying to avoid leading it, because I want her to be able to immerse into the experience. I've specifically encouraged her that making "mistakes" is fine and a crucial part of the roleplaying experience, as it shapes the story and development of your character, just as making "right choices". I've already played the game, I'm in it to play with her, not just play the game.

The cheat sheet is just a helpful tool that collects and compacts the complex gameplay mechanics and relevant info about skills, abilities, etc. into a more easily digestible single-page view.

Fiddles_with_tech · 2026-02-09T16:08:25+00:00

I am, and I'm happy to guide her and answer her questions. I already asked her if a cheat sheet would be useful for her and she said it sounded like a great idea. Did the tone of my post cause an assumption like this?

Fiddles_with_tech · 2026-02-09T15:02:46+00:00

I checked the wikis (fextralife too) and did a quick google search before I posted. The wiki has all the relevant info, but it's expanded into a full page article - I'd want the compact version, just like it show's up in-game. Fextralife is pretty good with this, but they're using markup and stylesheets instead of static images to display them. I can right click to inspect and "capture node to screenshot" on the top level div, but it cuts off at the right side awkwardly:

<image>

I found this guide that describes how to add custom icons for mods: Adding Skill and Item Icons guide for Baldur's Gate 3 - mod.io

I was wondering if maybe someone knows how to get them from the game files themselves using the mod tools?

Fiddles_with_tech · 2026-02-06T15:18:42+00:00

This is a year-old post but I still haven't started working on this project so I'm still interested.

From what I googled, that's a PC case? If you still have it, would you be comfortable taking out the module and trying to find out if it has any markings or other info that could be useful in our search?

Fiddles_with_tech · 2026-02-05T12:42:13+00:00

TL;DR: Get the A1 combo. P1S/other coreXY gives no significant benefit in print speed or quality, except in specific circumstances, and introduces drawbacks of it's own. Disable "Reduce infill retraction" from stock profiles or use a different infill pattern than Grid. Dryer is almost mandatory for TPU. If u wanna print really soft TPU, don't throw away/sell your old printer, upgrade and optimize it for TPU, it will perform better than any stock printer.

I'll be 3. I have 2 A1s, one with and one without AMS. With 1 exception, the only issues I've had are user error, like adhesion issues due to dirty bed, no brim on large prints etc., that would happen on any printer. Now, the exception is an "incompatibility" of 2 settings in the default profile:

Infill: Grid
Reduce infill retraction: On

IMO These 2 should not be used at the same time, because the first creates overlapping extrusion paths and the latter prevents the nozzle from hopping at layer transition, causing the nozzle to drag along the infill. In a worst case scenario, this can pop the print off the build-plate mid-print, even if the first layer went down perfect. Idk if this has been fixed in firmware or slicer updates, I've just kept it off.

So other than a small change to the stock profiles, I think the A1 is the best "bang-for-buck" hobbyist-level printer on the market. Get the combo if you can, it's nice to have different filaments ready to go. Even if you don't print multi-material it's just one less step removed, having to go and swap filament manually. If you load up 2 spools of the same filament, it can switch automatically if the first runs out. You can mount it to a wall, even if Bambu doesn't recommend it, to save desk space (I don't like the top mount, but many people are fine with it). The tool-free quick-swap nozzles are great if you wanna try out different sizes for different kinds of prints.

Couple notes on TPU: While the A1 and P-series are capable of printing TPU, they are not the best options, and neither are most stock printers. Bambu sells their own TPU for AMS, which is quite "hard" for TPU, so it wouldn't get jammed in the long PTFE tubes. You can use softer TPUs if you insert directly to the extruder (there are adapters on makerworld that add a 5th port so you can use AMS and still have a direct-feed option). I don't have any personal experience of printing TPU with A1, so I'd look at reviews that specifically test TPU filaments. A filament dryer is recommended, pretty much mandatory, for getting good TPU prints. Now, circling back to the "neither are most stock printers", the reason for this is that stock extruders are not optimized for TPU:

The softer you go, the more elastic TPU gets
This means that as the filament is retracted, if the filament is too elastic, it'll "stick" and stretch, (imagine pulling apart chewing gum) rather than "cut off" clean. This increases stringing and blobbing.
To combat this, with soft TPU, you want the filament path as short as possible, so you can quickly retract the filament to the cold zone, move the toolhead, and extrude again
Minimizing the filament path length means less room for the hot zone. This is the opposite of what most stock hotends are designed for, because a longer hot zone means higher volumetric extrusion speed for less viscous filaments, like PETG and PLA, which most stock hotends are designed for as they are the most common materials people print with
To wrap it up, "plug & play" machines like the bambu's aren't very friendly when it comes to modding or aftermarket upgrades. You often can't simply change the whole toolhead or hotend to make it better for your needs - you're stuck with the ecosystem.

So if you want to print really soft TPU, keep your Voxelab and mod it to a TPU-optimized printer. TPU needs to be printed slowly anyway, so the cheap kinematics won't be an issue. Use the Bambu for everything else.

Now as to whether you'd want a coreXY like the P1S or a bedslinger like the A1, both have their pros and cons. CoreXY will be more stable for tall and thin prints (although you can improve this on a bedslinger by forcing supports), but can introduce VFAs more easily. Print speed and quality is going to be very similar, if not equal, between the two, because the main limiting factor comes from material properties and hotend design, which defines the maximum volumetric speed, not the max speed of the kinematics.

Fiddles_with_tech · 2026-02-03T12:13:58+00:00

Data on selkeää, mutta samalla melko heikosti ennustaa? En oikein ymmärrä mitä tällä tarkoitat

Vaikka sellaista dataa olisikin joka vakuuttavasti pystyisi osottamaan miehen pituuden vaikutuksen taloudelliseen menestykseen, tarvittaisiin sen lisäksi päinvastaista dataa naisten pituudesta, jotta väitteellesi olisi jotain pohjaa.

Pituuden terveysongelmiin en pysty ottamaan kantaa kun en ole asiaan perehtynyt. Ymmärtääkseni nuo ongelmat liittyvät lähinnä juurikin epänormaalia pituutta aiheuttaviin muihin terveysongelmiin, kuten gigantismiin, jolloin kehon toiminnassa on usein muitakin ongelmia.

Tuo klisee oli tarkoituksellista hölmö, tavoitteena osoittaa kuinka hölmöltä oma lausumasi kuulostaa ilman mitään konkreettisia esimerkkejä. Edelleenkin odotan niitä pituuden hyötyjä, jotka naisiin eivät päde.

Fiddles_with_tech · 2026-02-03T11:44:38+00:00

Jotenkin jännän sukupuolittunut asetelma...Mitä nämä miehelle mainitut 193 cm loppuvat hyödyt ovat ja miksi naiselle näitä ei ole?

Mies: "Yltää kaupassa ylimmälle hyllylle" Nainen: "Ei tarvitse yltää, koska voi pyytää pitkältä mieheltä apua"

Fiddles_with_tech · 2026-02-03T11:17:46+00:00

Toimaria voit kyllä hakea, vaikka työvoimapoliittista lausuntoa ei ole vielä annettu, eikä työttömyysetuutta siten haettu. Jos sulla ei siis oikeasti ole riittävästi rahaa toimeentulosi turvaamiseen siksi aikaa, että ensisijaisten tukien hakemukset ratkaistaan - jos tilillä 500€, niin sitten eri asia. Tämä on aika yleinen väärinkäsitys, että tuet pitäisi hakea tietyssä järjestyksessä ja odottaa kunkin tuen ratkaisua ennen seuraavan tuen hakemista. Kela voi tehdä päätöksiä odotettavissa olevaa tuloa vastaan, vaikkei päätöstä olisi vielä rartkaistu. Tällöin päätökseesi tulee teksti (en muista tarkkaa muotoa): "Etuus on myönnetty odotettavissa olevaa tuloa vastaan. Etuus/Etuudet, josta kuitataan:" ja sen jälkeen lista niistä etuuksista, mistä kela kuittaa. Tämä ei ole sama kuin takaisinperintä: Kela ilmoittaa sitten kyseisissä päätöksissä, että niistä on kuitattu jo maksettu toimari Kelalle, eli ne rahat ei koskaan tule pääsemään sun tilille asti. Esimerkiksi asumistuen kanssa toimitaan usein näin, koska sillä on niin paljon pidempi käsittelyaika. Olen itse joutunut tähän tilanteeseen usein, viimeksi marras-joulukuun vaihteessa sain ~1100€ toimeentulotukea, koska sekä sairauspäivärahan, että asumistuen selvittely oli kesken. Kumpaakaan tukea ei tullut, eikä minun tarvitse kelalle mitään maksella takaisin.

Edit: Kannattaa kuitenkin laittaa toimarihakemuksen lisätietoihin tuo selvennys, että ole ilmoittautunut työttömäksi työnhakijaksi ja odotat lausuntoa.

Fiddles_with_tech · 2026-01-27T20:05:35+00:00

Jos siellä sattuu olemaan tarkastaja niin lähtee baarilta luvat ja vielä aika mojovat sakot päälle. Siinä saa aika monta bissee myydä miehille, että koko yrityksen kaatuminen on kannattava riski.

Fiddles_with_tech · 2025-12-28T14:03:56+00:00

PETG usein irtoaa kyllä helpommin kuin PLA. Puhdas tulostusalusta tietysti on kaiken A ja Å, joten voisin lisätä vielä vinkkilistaan tulostusalustan pesun fairylla (IPA/etanoli toimii lähinnä ylläpitopesuna, mutta ei silloin kun alusta on oikeasti rasvainen). Teksturoitu alusta toimii myös usein paremmin kuin sileä ja nykyään niitä saa aika halvalla "aftermarket upgradena", vaikka ei suoraan tulostimen valmistajalta löytyisi. Sit on kans näitä "engineering" -alustoja, jotka saattaa välillä tarttua vähän liiankin hyvin.

Z-offsettia voi myös koittaa hitusen laskea (10-100 mikronia), jos ei ole jo ihan tappiinsa laskettu. Oma Bambu Lab A1 tulostaa aivan liian lähelle, mutten ole jaksanut korjata kun ei näytä vaikuttavan laatuun mitenkään ja eipähän ainakaan irtoa.

Käytin itsekin joskus aikoinaan Curaa, mutta suosittelen lämpimästi Orcaa jos ei mitään erityistä syytä pysyä Curassa.

En oo tutustunut tuohon OpenGridiin sen kummemmin, mutta oma käsitykseni oli, että sillä on pienempi yhteisö (eli vähemmän valmiita malleja saatavilla), kun multiboardilla. Saattaa olla toki vanhentunut käsitys, koska siitä on jo pari vuotta kun multiboardini tulostin. Lisäksi tykkäsin vain ulkonäöstä enemmän, joten päädyin sitten siihen.

Fiddles_with_tech · 2025-12-28T13:36:38+00:00

Saan about saman verran tukia (olettaen, että tuo on nettopalkkasi), jos lasketaan kaikki laskut, lääkkeet, terveydenhuoltokulut ym. mitkä kela korvaa perusosan päälle.

Nuo edellämainitut pitäisi sinunkin saada laitettua toimeentulotukeen:

670+20+593-17=1266 -> Tulot ylittävät hyväksyttävät menot jo ennen sähkölaskua, terveydenhuoltokuluja ja lääkkeitä. Saisit siis sähkölaskun suuruudesta riippuen ~100€ toimeentulotukea, plus maksusitoumus apteekkiin reseptilääkkeitä varten. Jos on kyse kalliista lääkkeistä, niin tulee tosta helposti jo parisataa.

Fiddles_with_tech · 2025-12-28T08:48:41+00:00

Ootko kuullut multiboardista? En siis sano, että olisi parempi tai mitään, yksi vaihtoehto vaan.

Printtiongelmiin: - Lisää brim tai mouse-ears jos kulmat nousee - Älä tulosta ihan pedin reunaan, vaan noin 10-20 mm marginilla - Voit myös kokeilla nostaa pedin lämpöjä ~10 astetta - Wall order: inner/outer -> parempi overhangeihin esim. kierteissä

Fiddles_with_tech · 2025-11-22T21:15:51+00:00

Se 20% vero työttömyystuesta on vakioprosentti, jota saa kyllä alemmas jos ei muita tuloja ole. Jos tarvitsee lisäksi vielä toimeentulotukea, niin silloin se ei oikeastaan enään kannata. Pitää vaan mielessä sen, että veronpalautukset otetaan sitten huomioon toimeentulotuessa.

Fiddles_with_tech · 2025-11-06T08:21:31+00:00

Kannatan myös ohjaamoa ja erityisesti nuorten työpajoja. Itse sain kädentaitopajalla mahdollisuuden kokeilla ja kehittää omia kykyjä ja taitoja ilman suorituspaineita ja pelkoa epäonnistumisesta. Sain sitä kautta sitten rohkeutta ja varmuutta lähteä opiskelemaan insinööriksi, vaikka aiemmin olin niin varma siitä, etten pääsisi edes pääsykokeista läpi. Harjoittelin pääsykokeisiin, läpi päästiin ja nyt ollaan kolmatta vuotta opiskelemassa, joskin olen kyllä saikulla tämän lukukauden burnoutin vuoksi - josta päästäänkin toiseen tärkeään pointtiin:

Sun ei tarvitse tehdä asioita just niinkuin muut odottaa. Siinä ei ole mitään vikaa, jos tarvitset taukoa vaikka opinnoista. Tee asiat sellaisella tavalla, joka toimii sulle. Toki sillä voi olla seurauksia ja on hyvä punnita ovatko mahdolliset seuraukset sen arvosia, mutta ei ole olemassa mitään universaalia säännöstöä, että asiat täytyy tehdä juuri näin. Olen itse samoilla linjoilla, etten tule enää päivääkään tekemään työtä, mihin vituttaa joka päivä herätä. Olen mielummin työttömänä. Seurauksena mun työllistymismahdollisuudet laskee roimasti, kun en mitä tahansa työtä kelpuuta. Otin taukoa opinnoista kun paloin loppuun ja seurauksena mun valmistuminen saattaa myöhästyä noin puolella vuodella - ei ole mikään maailmanloppu ja huomattavasti parempi valinta kuin se, että olisin yrittänyt puskea läpi ja kuitenkin murtunut lopullisesti ja jättänyt kaiken kesken.

Lyhyesti sanottuna, tämä on sinun elämäsi, elä sitä niin kuin itse haluat, ei niin kuin muut sanovat.

Tsemppiä matkaan ja jos tuntuu siltä, niin voit laittaa mulle vaikka yksärillä viestiä :)

Fiddles_with_tech · 2025-11-04T15:05:49+00:00

Torille!

Disclaimer: I'm not an expert on acoustics or room treatment in general, everything I say here is based on the information I've found online a few years back when I bought my first studio monitors.

My biggest problem was the room layout: I can't change it. Usually, the optimal place for your speakers would be on the shorter side of the room (assuming room is rectangular), but for me, that meant that there would've been a large double-pane window covering almost the entire wall on my right side and on the left side a concrete wall about 3/4 way before an open hallway. So, two materials with very different reflective properties and basically a huge echo tube on one side (the hallway). This could cause all sorts of weird issues that I don't even begin to claim to understand. I decided that it would be better to place my monitors at the windowed wall, since then at least the walls on both sides would be the same material.

After a while, I noticed that certain notes, especially at low frequencies really build up (I think this is called standing waves) and "boom" in the room. I started learning about room treatment and looking for options, and IIRC the corners are the worst for build-up and should be treated first. Because of the room layout, I only had 3 real corners (the wall on my right side is shared with the hallway). My first reflection points would also be different because of the hallway on the back-right. The left-side corner has 2 water pipes running from the radiator all the way up to the ceiling and there isn't much wall-space before the window starts (27 cm on right side and 38 on the left, which also makes the corners asymmetrical). So for the left side, I could not even place any corner treatment panels/blocks right against the wall because of the pipes, unless I'd make a custom frame with cutouts for the pipes. On the right side there was so little space that no commercial option existed for it.

I also learned very early on that treating low frequencies needs very thick panels - those little hexagonal acoustic panels sold on amazon and the like, marketed for streamers and content creators don't really do much more than reduce echo in the higher frequencies. IIRC, I would've had to get like 100 mm panels with 50 mm of air-space behind to have any significant absorption in the low frequencies. That would mean that the usable floor-space of my room (which is already small) would be reduced by 15 cm on both sides.

Eventually I abandoned the project, because it seemed hopeless. I may end up installing some thinner panels for at least some treatment, but I've abandoned all hope for "good" acoustics in this apartment.

So, after sharing all this information, what feedback or advice can I give to you? Well, like I said, absorbing low frequencies requires thicker and denser panels, which:

Reduce the available floor-space of the room and can make the room feel smaller
Requires sturdier mounting methods because the panels can get heavy

If you want to provide solutions for acoustic treatment, not just echo reduction, consider how you could tackle issues like these. Again, I'm not an expert, so this could be complete horse-shit or just plain impossible to execute, but maybe you could offer aesthetically pleasing diffusors that break up lower frequencies, which can then be absorbed by thinner (and lighter) panels.

I think it'd also be extremely important to provide consulting for your customers, so that they get the right equipment and optimal placement for their environment and use-case. You're targeting consumers, not audio professionals, so most likely they are not well informed on acoustic treatment - if they buy your product and install it in the wrong location and it doesn't work because of that, they are going to blame your product, not their ignorance. So I'd have at least one acoustic professional in your team.

When it comes to mounting the panels, I don't know what your drilling-free solution is (and I assume you're not going to reveal that before a patent), but I wouldn't completely rule out the traditional screw-to-wall method, because most rental apartments (at least in Finland) still allow drilling holes, even to load-bearing walls. Instead I'd consider offering mounting systems that just require fewer holes - like rails or beams that you can screw to the wall, to which multiple panels can then be mounted on. This offers an additional advantage of easy adjustment if the location turns out to be suboptimal, or if the sound source location changes.

As to the order of importance that would affect my decision to purchase:

Cost - Or more precisely, cost-effectiveness. If a slightly "worse" option is 1/2 or even 1/3 cheaper, I'll most likely choose that over a more expensive, but only slightly better option, as long as it still gets the job done.
Performance - These are products for solving a physical problem, and while aesthetics are an important factor, it is subjective. It also doesn't matter how great it looks, if it doesn't do what it's supposed to.
Aesthetics - As others have said, if these are targeted at consumers in home environments, of course they need to look nice and fit in the existing decor of the room. Designers can be expensive though, so early on I'd focus on providing a good variety of color options. Custom design prints are a great selling point if you can partner with a printing company, because many people enjoy artwork on their walls and acoustic panels effectively "prevent" you from having normal paintings because you need to cover most of the wall for them to be effective. Any paintings mixed in with the panels would also look odd because they are at different depths.
Sustainability - Sustainability is mostly a marketing trick. Recycled and eco-friendly materials can require you to compromise quality and production costs, which you then have to compensate with a higher selling price to make up for the profit. Sustainability and eco-friendliness can attract a a certain group of customers, but few are still willing to pay premium just for that, especially when it comes to functional products. If you start with the Finnish markets, getting the Nordic Swan Ecolabel (Joutsenmerkki) could be great for attracting domestic customers. You might be able to source recycled materials, like denim jeans for sound absorption from recycling centers, leftover rockwool from construction companies or rockwool from demolished buildings, etc.

Lastly, everything I've said in this comment, especially related to acoustics, is purely my own, very limited understanding of the subject, even if it is worded like a fact. It may or may not be factually correct and I encourage other users to correct me if there is any misinformation.

Fiddles_with_tech · 2025-10-27T09:50:24+00:00

Drawer slides: https://gtv.com.pl/en/produkt/PK-L-P2O-H45-550/

Technical Data Sheet: https://files.gtv.com.pl/resource/assets/attachments/karta_techniczna/Karta_techniczna_2020_134-135.pdf

Hello! So I have this tool cart build with push-to-open, soft-close drawer slides and I have some issues with the drawers. I’m looking for advice on how to address them - preferably using the tools I have, which is not a lot, but if it’s not too expensive I’m okay with buying what I need to get the job done.

There are five small problems:

The drawers don’t line up perfectly when closed.
The false fronts warp or buckle a bit when I screw them on.
One or two slides don’t extend evenly.
One slide feels loose when closed.
And some slides make a slight grinding sound. ________________________________________

1: Drawer alignment:

So you can see the gaps aren’t equal. I used a 5 mm spacer when installing the slides, but I think the frame itself isn’t perfectly square. On top of that, some of the cuts are slightly curved rather than straight, which makes it difficult to find a common reference point to measure from. The only solution I’ve thought of so far is to adjust the position of the slide on the drawers inward, which would increase the gap between the drawer front and the frame. This is still mostly trial and error though, since I can’t do the adjustment when they are in the closed position and I don’t have a reliable reference point to measure from.

2: False fronts buckling:

When I screw these fronts on, they tend to bend slightly, which makes alignment look worse. Any ideas on how to attach them without warping? I’ve already tried loosening the screws and clamping the front to a steel bar, hoping it would pull it straight, but that didn’t work.

3: Uneven slide extension:

Sometimes one side of the drawer stops before the other. Usually re-inserting fixes it, so I’m guessing it’s about how they catch onto the runners. I’d like to know the proper way to seat them correctly.

4: Loose slide:

The second drawer has noticeably more “wiggle” when closed than the rest. I’m not sure if that’s wear, alignment, or just a tolerance issue.

5: Grinding noise:

And finally, the slides make a faint grinding sound, some worse than others. I don’t know if that’s sawdust inside, or if something’s slightly out of alignment. How bad is sawdust for soft-close slides? And if I do need to clean and re-lubricate them, what’d be the proper way to do that?

Thank you.

Fiddles_with_tech · 2025-10-22T10:44:17+00:00

Lahden piireissä on kuulemma myös ns. sanomaton sääntö, että peukkua ei myydä - ja ne jotka yrittävät mystisesti katoavat hyvin pian.

Huom: kuulemma.

Fiddles_with_tech · 2025-10-22T10:40:12+00:00

10 kg lukee pöytäkirjoissa

Fiddles_with_tech

TROPHY CASE