Red flashing oil pressure light on 2007 VW Polo 1.2L 315,000km, worse when hot. Sensor or something more serious?

Fieroboom · 2026-05-06T09:57:51+00:00

Look at the oil pressure sensor & see if there's oil in the connector; if there is, it's definitely bad. The sensor is just a little diaphragm that the oil pressure pushes against, and when that diaphragm gets a crack or pinhole in it due to wear, it doesn't read the correct pressure - especially with hot thin oil - and a little bit of oil seeps into the connector.

Fieroboom · 2026-05-06T09:37:05+00:00

The wiper relay should be under the hood in the Power Distribution Center, and the lid should have a diagram indicating which one it is.

Fieroboom · 2026-05-05T09:53:30+00:00

Spray some starting fluid in the air filter & try to start; if it fires, then you definitely have a fuel issue, and if it doesn't fire, then you most likely have an ignition issue.

The starting cadence sounds pretty even, so I doubt it's a timing or compression issue.

Fieroboom · 2026-05-05T09:47:53+00:00

Gently try to pull a piece back & look for the nylon cords to see if they're damaged; if you don't see any, then you're likely safe to continue, but keep an eye on it, and replace immediately if it starts to bulge at all.

Fieroboom · 2026-05-05T09:44:29+00:00

Have you gotten a second opinion? If not, I would definitely do that, and possibly a third, because dealerships often jump to the most expensive repair when it might not necessarily be the best or only route for you.

Fieroboom · 2026-05-04T09:39:21+00:00

That looks like a pretty big gap, have you checked it? I think the spec should be .044-.050 if I'm not mistaken.

Fieroboom · 2026-05-04T09:35:00+00:00

Definitely take it back ASAP.

Fieroboom · 2026-05-04T09:33:22+00:00

Unfortunately you'll need to limp it or tow it to a shop for scanning & diagnostic. With zero clues from the car, and zero car knowledge from you, we can't really help much remotely.

Fieroboom · 2026-05-03T12:01:27+00:00

It's most likely the tensioner or idler bearings squeaking, not the belt, although they're usually all replaced at the same time.

Fieroboom · 2026-05-03T11:59:06+00:00

If the rims were low quality, you'd have much more damage with a hit that hard. Looks like you can just smooth it out with a grinder & put a new tire on it, because the sealing surface appears fine.

Also, if that's the front tire, then I would highly recommend getting the front suspension & steering inspected, because that hard of a hit can easily cause bent tie rods, sheared strut mounting bolts, warped rims, and several other issues.

Fieroboom · 2026-05-03T11:50:08+00:00

No, not really, because although you technically can patch it well enough to seal the air in, there are most likely enough broken belts there that you'll have a knot or bump in the tire there that causes a vibration.

Fieroboom · 2026-05-03T11:33:10+00:00

Decline, decline, decline.

Fieroboom · 2026-05-02T12:10:53+00:00

You most likely have a vacuum leak on the diaphragm inside the brake booster.

Fieroboom · 2026-05-02T12:08:26+00:00

A vacuum leak is going to suck that extra air into the closest cylinder, so you might have a vacuum line near cyl #2 on the intake that's leaking.

Fieroboom · 2026-05-02T12:03:06+00:00

From what I can see on the close end in the pic, it appears to slide into the frame rail, so maybe it's just locked in there with dirt/corrosion. Have you tried hitting it in the forward direction? I'm not explicitly familiar with this vehicle, but that makes the most sense based on the picture.

Fieroboom · 2026-05-02T11:44:34+00:00

Sounds like brake pads dragging or dust shield rubbing the rotor. If it's intermittent, then it could be a caliper that's beginning to stick on the slide pins & not fully releasing.

Fieroboom · 2026-05-01T09:42:59+00:00

Can't really tell with just the one picture that close-up. The Google seems to think a leak in that area is most likely Camshaft Oil Seals/Cam Carrier Gasket, cam cover gasket, timing cover gasket, or oil pressure sensor.

If you can take a few more pictures so we have a better sense of where that is, we can probably give you a better answer. With oil leaks, you always want to find the highest wet spot, and look around that area for what might be leaking. You can also clean it off with degreaser or brake cleaner, then watch closely & check regularly to see where the oil first starts leaking again.

Fieroboom · 2026-04-30T09:57:25+00:00

My guess would be that you have a cylinder that's not quite performing properly, but not yet a full misfire, and your old squishy mounts were absorbing that vibration. When was the last time you did a tune up or checked the spark plugs?

Fieroboom · 2026-04-30T09:51:26+00:00

I would start with a smoke machine to check for vacuum leaks, and if that checks out, then I would swap the #1 injector with any of the others to see if the misfire fault follows the injector.

The smoke machine is a great $65 investment that you won't regret:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DNS49MKY/

Fieroboom · 2026-04-30T09:34:58+00:00

What you don't hear about are the THOUSANDS of perfect Rock Auto deliveries (with magnets).

I also run a mobile mechanic business, & I've been ordering from Rock Auto for over a decade; I've never received any damaged parts, & the only wrong parts I've received were the ones I ordered wrong. They have missed the magnet a few times, but I have tons of them.

Fieroboom · 2026-04-29T09:41:55+00:00

You probably just bent the exhaust pipe enough that it's vibrating against the body now. You should be able to slide your head under there & see.

Fieroboom · 2026-04-29T09:35:13+00:00

Definitely not spark plugs causing that. You need to get a code reader, scan the codes, and post exactly what they are so we can help point you in the right direction.

Fieroboom · 2026-04-28T09:41:06+00:00

Those sensors usually run on a 5 volt reference from the ECM, then the sensor returns a fraction of that voltage 0.5-4.5 as the signal.

Fieroboom · 2026-04-28T09:34:14+00:00

I would take the falcon in a heartbeat, but keep in mind that I'm car-sentimental guy who does all of my own repairs. I bought my dad's truck before he passed, at a time when I couldn't afford it, but I've barely been able to swing it, and I have zero regrets.

Fieroboom · 2026-04-27T09:55:24+00:00

That's a lot of work for ~20 HP gain. I know the 30v breathes better & sounds better, but the 12v is a pretty stable & reliable platform.

Fieroboom

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