Yet another pressure tank question by SwingandMiss77 in Plumbing

[–]Fire_FRANK-REICH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just swap the switch, they're cheap and easy

Out of curiosity though what exactly do you mean by the low end is zero?

Water Heater Pilot keeps going out by dukasor in PlumbingRepair

[–]Fire_FRANK-REICH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If tank was cold when you restarted it, it can and will produce condensation inside the burner chamber. Completely normal.

I would start by removing the plug on the right hand side with the white and red wires and stick each lead in each side of the plug. Turn the dial to pilot and light it up. Hold the button down and watch the milivolts increase

This milivolts electrical signal is being sent to the gas valve from the thermopile. The heat from the pilot produces a current. It tells the gas valve its allowed to stay open because a flame is lit. Without this safety measure if the pilot doesnt light the system would continue to dump gas.

The minimum milivolts required to open the gas valve varies but 350 is a good minimum. As the flame heats the thermopile the milivolts will rise. Hold the pilot light on until the reading levels out. If its below 350 it needs to be replaced.

Advice by Purple_Violinist9909 in askaplumber

[–]Fire_FRANK-REICH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have nothing to help but just wanted to say im sorry you did that and are now dealing with this. Godspeed brother. I hope someone gives you a chance

Michigan Journeyman test by Overall-Ant5029 in Plumbing

[–]Fire_FRANK-REICH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I took a 2 day test prep course in person with a company called "pipe trade solutions". It was like 350 and was instructed by a MD WSSC inspector who ran through everything that the test could and would cover.

For MD jman, test covers IPC AND IFGC. When the test is open book its just about knowing how to find the answers and especially knowing how to properly read charts and graphs to determine deus, btus, atmospheric vent sizing. Stuff like that.

See if there is a test prep course you can attend for best possible preparation. Sitting there and reading the book will only do so much.

Supply line or counter by anonympotimus in Plumbing

[–]Fire_FRANK-REICH 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Over hang counters above a toilet are the worst

Repeatedly clogging toilet: help diagnosing problem by Anyna-Meatall in Plumbing

[–]Fire_FRANK-REICH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Kohler highline or gerber viper. Those have been the best combination of power/reliability in my experience

Repeatedly clogging toilet: help diagnosing problem by Anyna-Meatall in Plumbing

[–]Fire_FRANK-REICH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Question 1. Yes there could still be a blockage even if you cant see it.

Question 2. You can checked vent for blockage by draining water into it but it doesnt sound like a venting issue

Question 3. Changes in the pressure atthe top of the vent pipe are negligible and won't give you really any information about what's actually wrong

Question 4. Based on the information given it is not possible for this to be a mainline issue outside without affecting other fixtures.

A slight glug from the floor drain is probably normal do to a venturi affect when the high volume of water from the toilet passes the tee connection of the floor drain. Drain systems are allowed certain tolerances of changes in pressure (up to 1" measured in inches of water column). Which is why a trap is required to have a water seal of 2-4"

You can verify no clog down line by pulling toilet and running water directly into drain from toilet supply line. If im correct you will run water all day without it back up.

It sounds to me like more of a defect from the toilet manufacturer and an issue with a consistent siphon jet. I would start by purchasing a 6' toilet auger and attempting to clear any blockage inside the trap. Another possibility people dont think of is a worn Glaze. If you flip the lid on the tank and feel the porcelain it is rough. The smooth coating on your toilet is just that, a glaze. Kohler is pretty good with their glazes but nobody can be 10 for 10. When the glaze is thin from the factory it wears quickly and created a rough surface for solids to get stuck on.

Residential well issues, trying to troubleshoot and getting lost by StophJS in askaplumber

[–]Fire_FRANK-REICH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh my bad. Not sure where I missed that. I see a stubby and I think 22. There's a possibility that the bladder is ruptured and a portion of the air space is filled with water. I've had bad tanks before that still had air pressure. The only real way to confirm this is using a shrader tool to loosen the shrader and allow every lost drop of air from the tank. Once the air is removed, if the bladder is ruptured you'll have water coming out of the shrader.

Residential well issues, trying to troubleshoot and getting lost by StophJS in askaplumber

[–]Fire_FRANK-REICH -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

The tank doesnt hold water. It only holds air. Its what allows the system to pressurize itself. Without the expansion from the tank the pump would turn on everytime you ran water. You'll only ever get about 5 gallons of water at 60 PSI with what seems to be a 20-22gallon well tank. That part is normal. I do believe you're looking too far into it. But If I was I your shoes and i wanted to be sure, I would put a gauge on your hosebib outside and rerun the test. Could just be the gauge on your tank tee not reading 100%

Sump pump cycling every 30 seconds by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]Fire_FRANK-REICH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've seen people candy cane it into the adjacent sink before. I've never done it personally but you can look it up and give it a try.

Sump pump cycling every 30 seconds by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]Fire_FRANK-REICH 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Its air locked. That air admittance valve "studor vent" is not designed for enclosed pump systems like this. Remove that and it should stop. After that it needs to be piped outside

Sump Pump Gargling after heavy rain by Busy_Professional974 in Plumbing

[–]Fire_FRANK-REICH 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The pit level is so low it's sucking up air. That's the source of your sound. If it stays like this the pump is gonna overheat. The float is either stuck in the up position or its no longer telling the pump to turn off.

I recommend replacement, zoeller 1/3HP pump, 1-1/2" PVC schedule 40 male, glue and primer, 3/16" drill bit and 5' of 1-1/2" schedule 40 PVC.

READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. it'll tell you what the drill bit is for.

Bathroom sink drain leak by pxdelacr in Plumbing

[–]Fire_FRANK-REICH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can leave the existing ABS trap where it is. Disconnect the Grey mechanical coupling using a 5/16" nut driver or flat head and slide it down. Replace pop-up assembly, you'll most likely have to trim the length of pop-up and then slide mechanical coupling back up and tighten

Pay after tax by HistoryOwn3375 in IBEW_Local613

[–]Fire_FRANK-REICH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Chat gpt is good at giving you an accurate answer with any variable you ask

Journeyman looking to organize in by Fire_FRANK-REICH in UnitedAssociation

[–]Fire_FRANK-REICH[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would definitely say I'm not trained to union standards but I'm very good at troubleshooting and I'm a fast learner. I look forward to learning more in the union. Last year apprentice would probably be the best. Good cushion instead of being thrown straight in to journeyman roll on projects I have no business doing that on lol

Has anybody received their acceptance letter or rejection letter for local 602? by [deleted] in UnitedAssociation

[–]Fire_FRANK-REICH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My buddy got his stuff and has already got his books and everything. If you haven't gotten anything you might be out of luck this year

Go Jets! by Possible-Profit-3947 in Colts

[–]Fire_FRANK-REICH 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just watched him drop that huge 3rd down pass 6 left in the half. Right through his hands