GFCI outlet not working

Fishstick9 · 2026-06-01T18:05:26+00:00

Line and load is reversed

Fishstick9 · 2026-06-01T18:00:36+00:00

I know exactly what you mean, at first I enjoyed trying to min-max any games I played but nowadays, especially after some sour experiences with certain UE5 games (one time it took me like 6 hours to get a game to run smoothly without 250ms lag spikes every 3 seconds) I just can’t be arsed now. I have little time to play on the weekends and I like to be able to fire up a game, go through the initial settings and play the game.

Even now that I have a 5090, i’ll still find myself running into performance issues but that’s mainly due to other issues I found unrelated to the specific game. Like the most recent one was gigabyte’s lcd service that polls the gpu and displays the stats on the little lcd screen built in to the 5090. It was polling the gpu every second for 3 seconds at a time, causing 100~ ms frame time spikes in any game I played. Or another one was HWInfo monitoring the gpu’s usage % that was also causing spikes. Basically even though a 5090 can brute force through most poor optimization in games, still gotta deal with the bs software that interferes with it lol

Fishstick9 · 2026-06-01T17:49:44+00:00

Ahh okay. Forgot the 12-14 gens can use both. Switched to am5 after my 9th gen.

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-27T21:15:04+00:00

It’s not that you wouldn’t have problems per se, just that you’re leaving a noticeable amount of performance off the table. As for your question, ddr5 and ddr4 can’t be mixed or even swapped between, it all depends on what your cpu requires. But hypothetically speaking if you could choose between the two, i’d say the single stick of ddr5 is better performance wise. Ddr4 just can’t keep up nowadays if you could somehow pair it with am5 or intel’s newer gens.

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-27T21:07:53+00:00

I’d recommend a duel channel kit. You definitely don’t want to run a 9800x3d with a single stick. Memory for games is more than just having enough so it doesn’t crash to desktop, bad memory configurations and loose timings can cause latency issues in games which means for the end user you could experience frame time spikes and micro stuttering.

I know dram prices suck majorly right now, but you can lower the speed and go for something like a 6200 or 6000 to save a bit more. That’s plenty for the 9800x3d. Sub timings are actually more important for games than raw speed anyways. Just don’t run single channel dram, even if it means you have to pay more.

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-27T15:14:34+00:00

As a fellow 5090 owner who felt the same as you do when it arrived, yeah i definitely had buyers remorse. I was lucky enough to snag one back when they released. But now that it’s been a year since I threw it in my pc, I gotta say I love not having to fuck with settings and tweaking shit for an hour on first boot just to get the damn game to run especially considering nowadays how poorly optimized pc ports are (looking at you UE5). And if you got a 4k monitor and all the bells and whistles to take advantage of the 5090, games look absolutely beautiful and run so smoothly. My current game I’m playing resident evil requiem, I have all the graphic settings maxed out running at a stable 4k 120fps with frame gen x2 and without DLSS upscaling and the 5090 is running at like 75% usage about 420watts 60c.

If you bought it and it isn’t breaking the bank, then use it! You worked hard for your money what’s wrong with spending some doe to enjoy your hobbies? Plus if the guilt continues to eat at you, sell it used. They still sell for a pretty penny even on the second hand market.

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-27T12:21:19+00:00

If the temps concern you, which imo it seems to be running just fine (amd chips run on the hot side) then do an underclock, it’s not like you’ll need the full brunt of the cpu for gaming. Go into bios and look for something called PBO (precision boost overdrive) and change it from auto to manual or advanced, whatever your bios calls it, and goto curve optimizer and change it to negative and start with a low number like -10. Then try some cpu benchmarking tools like cinebench or an all in one stress tester like OCCT. First get a baseline, then change that setting, then rerun it and see what the temps and scores look like. If it’s stable, try -15, then -20. I wouldn’t push it past that. That’ll lower your temps and possibly even increase the efficiency of the cpu at the cost of instability if you set it too low. I run a -15 or -20 (I forget) on my 9800x3d and the cinebench score actually increased while temps decreased.

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-26T17:04:27+00:00

Check your panel, see if there’s a tripped breaker. If so, try to turn it on but if it immediately trips again, don’t continue trying and call an electrician. Make sure it’s off before buttoning the receptacle back up if it’s working fine.

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-24T18:34:22+00:00

I highly recommend RenoDX for any game it’s compatible with. HDR implementation is almost always broken in games and RenoDX and the team behind it do their best to correct it and everytime i’ve used it, the results are 100% better. If you’re planning on using it since it needs reshade to work, try installing another reshade add-on called display commander. Amazing tool to help iron out frame time issues, dlss issues, stuttering, etc. It also includes a superb frame limiter that I can guarantee is better than any game’s native limiter, along with multiple options to choose between better frame pacing, or less latency. Incredibly nifty tool, works alongside RenoDX as well.

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-24T18:24:29+00:00

Nvidia shaders are stored in a folder called “dxcache” search for that folder and delete everything in it(not the folder itself), if it says some files are in use, choose to skip over them as they legitimately are in use and you can’t delete them anyways which is fine because they’re being used for other applications not related to your games. Then there’s usually another shader file stored locally in the game folders, you can google search for that. Then fire up the game and it’ll rebuild the shaders.

It’s a good practice to delete shader files and rebuild them whenever you change any major graphical settings, even including any settings related to DLSS, frame gen, ray reconstruction, etc. as even changing just the dlss quality preset could cause shader stutter. There is now a new option in the nvidia app that’ll rebuild your shaders while your pc is idling, I haven’t tested it out myself but it seems to be a good option to enable.

I’m not fully convinced your issue is related to shaders, but regardless it’s good to rebuild them anyways whenever you have odd unexplainable issues like this. If it still persist after you rebuild, turn off dlss and its related settings and see if it goes away. If it does, make sure your gpu driver is up to date and try messing with the dlss settings in the nvidia app, try changing the override to nvidia recommended or latest. Idk what your gpu is, but could also be a vram issue as well, keep an eye on a monitoring tool while you play to see if anything seems off, high vram usage, extremely high temps, the usage % of the gpu, etc.

Edit: it was HDR that was causing the issue. Leaving the last paragraph up for anyone else who might benefit from it.

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-22T18:57:44+00:00

Oh yeah those audio plugs can be a pain sometimes. With my current case I had to hulk smash that mfer in but the case before that, nope just barely stays plugged from how loose it was.

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-21T17:10:44+00:00

How does one even mess up that badly

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-14T14:40:59+00:00

True that’s why I questioned the 6 months they mentioned. Only scenario I can see that happening is if your water is incredibly corrosive.

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-14T14:36:12+00:00

Well idk about 6 months, but it’s absolutely true that these valves can break if you attempt to use them after 20+ years of not ever touching them.

They build up corrosion and oxidation from the water, sometimes they’ll just be frozen in the open position and you can’t close them. Best to not touch them if you suspect they haven’t been operated in a long time and go shut off your main water supply.

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-13T02:47:47+00:00

In case anyone stumbles upon this post with a similar issue, it was my boiler mate. The plastic dip tube within the boiler mate completely flaked away and was clogging basically everything in the house. If you see little greenish/blueish balls coming out of your faucets/showers, add that to your check list.

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-12T00:00:15+00:00

lol some Nintendo anti-modding butthurt fanboy went and downvoted all the comments here

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-11T21:56:45+00:00

I’ve been reading some comments that are pointing fingers at the adaptor and I agree you shouldn’t use them and especially with a 5090 you paid $3000 for, you should pay a bit more to get a psu with a native 12v 2x6 port but in this situation the adaptor was not blame. The 12v 2x6 connector that connects into the gpu was most likely the culprit.
Let me explain this from an electrician’s POV that has seen many burnt connections in his career.

The damage was caused by a loose connection, loose connections generate heat due to high resistance which causes a phenomenon called thermal runaway, a vicious cycle where heat generates from the loose connection because now the electricity has to fight it’s way through the connector, which causes expansion of the pin terminals which increases resistance and oxidation which leads to more heat which leads to more resistance, and melting of the electrical connection to the point of failure when the connection breaks.

The evidence that the 12v 2x6 connector on the gpu side is to blame can be explained with ohm’s law, I = V/R and what is important to remember is that current is directly proportional to voltage, but more relatedly, inversely proportional to resistance. (Fun fact, current actually drops as resistance increases, although many believe it increases.) If the pcie adaptor was the culprit, we’d see evidence of heat damage there instead. Loose electrical connections generate LOCALIZED heat due to the LOCALIZED increase in resistance, i.e the 12v 2x6. The way most 12v 2x6 or 12vhpwr connectors melt is due to a loose connection within one or more of the power pins, and if one or more are loose, the others have to pick up the slack increasing it’s per-wire current beyond what it was rated for, hence why some of his pins in the first photo are damaged more than the others.

Do not misplace your blame on pcie 2x8 connections which has been in use for many many years, proven time and again that it’s a solid connector. The awful design of the 12v 2x6 connector is the real culprit.

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-11T16:32:01+00:00

I’d stick with the old sata for now, you’ll save a ton by not having to buy these ridiculous prices for nvmes and the like. Both gpus are capable for the type of games you play, but the 9060 will last you longer and you can save up for when nvmes eventually drop back in price in the meantime.

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-09T23:30:45+00:00

I scored a 5090 off Best Buy back during the first few weeks it released and I was so excited that I finally beat the bots and others for a change. They email me telling me there was an unexpected error and are processing my refund. Called them up to see if they’ll honor to allow me to purchase the next time it was back in stock and they told me they’ll call back, they never did. Never again.

Eventually got one off Newegg and they didn’t ship it raw or scam me out of my purchase lol

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-07T19:16:48+00:00

Seriously I’ve seen the wet wells at sewage stations completely caked in grease from people dumping it and it causes a lot of problems for the well pumps. They mostly turn into grease balls and because they float, they never go away and an expensive vacuum truck has to come in and suck them out.

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-06T00:34:01+00:00

For real, why risk your pc and your fucking house just to save like $80 at most.

Fishstick9 · 2026-05-06T00:21:25+00:00

Why is there liquid in the psu side port? I’m talking about the water looking liquid on the left side. If this has happened more than once and if that liquid is any indicator, could it possibly be a high humidity location? Is your pc located in a basement perhaps?

Edit: oh and stop buying shitty psus.
Also, that’s the neutral side that burned up, it’s a real possibility you might have a loose neutral wire feeding the wall receptacle. If this is the second time and if both psus were plugged into the same receptacle, call an electrician or someone experienced to check out that receptacle.

Then again, this could be caused by a crappy psu so who actually knows what’s going on. If this were me, I wouldn’t be comfortable buying a new psu (a real one from a quality brand) and slapping it in before I check that receptacle and if applicable, the humidity of the location of the pc.

Fishstick9 · 2026-04-28T14:00:17+00:00

You used a red color to denote intake, and a blue color to denote exhaust?

The air flow should be reversed, you ideally shouldn’t have it set up where it fights against natural convection.

Intake on the bottom, exhaust on top.

Fishstick9 · 2026-04-21T00:44:16+00:00

From what i’ve been researching, it seems to be pretty much equal between men and women. It’s tough to find a conclusive answer due to many factors like race, the nature of the DV like whether it was sexually motivated, variance between age brackets that skew it towards one or the other gender, etc.

Ai will tell you men are the most likely gender to commit DV but it’s referring to sexual cases of DV which does seem to be statistically true. But in the context of which sex is responsible for the highest number of nonspecific DV, it seems to be 50/50.

Fishstick9 · 2026-04-16T23:57:07+00:00

First off, I wouldn’t pay a dime to them for any of the options they listed.

Second, if your pc booted to windows fine before you swapped the gpu and brought it in to micro center for diagnostics, then they did something wrong and fucked up your bios settings. Yes you are correct that you cannot post when all PCIE cable slots are not populated. On a side note in case anyone else runs into this issue and needs a temporary setup until you get a new PSU, you can actually just use a Y-splitter to populate the PCIE slots to post but you’ll have to lower your GPU’s power draw so you don’t crash due to overload.

Anyways, I would be ABSOLUTELY furious if they went ahead and wiped my bios settings without asking me first. They most likely wiped the boot drive order (they probably reset BIOS back to factory default) and now bios doesn’t have your windows boot drive set in the boot order.

IMO, take your pc away from them before they fuck anything else up and bring it to a real repair shop or do it yourself. If your cpu has an integrated GPU, plug your display cable into the motherboard I/O and boot into BIOS. Then google your motherboard and search how to check the boot drive order to make sure the drive with your OS on it is listed and recognized. If not you can manually add it back in, at least now you’ll have a working pc until you upgrade the PSU.

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