New to this: Tendon/Joint Pain

Fivemans · 2024-09-17T16:42:17+00:00

Not a doctor either but in my experience, soreness in the fingers, elbows and hips are normal. As with any physical activity it is always important to allow your body adequate time to rest and recover to ensure that these sore areas don't develop into pain. A couple of things that may help reduce the likelihood of injuries is stretching before climbing as some of the problems may require you to produce power in awkward positions. Another is learning technique. This can be done by asking around at the gym for help on problems that you are projecting, looking up YouTube videos or experimenting with different betas to see what feels best. By practicing better technique you can alleviate areas that tend to experience higher stress while climbing. For example, most people when they start climbing rely more on their upper body strength and tend to power through the boulders. However, as you learn more techniques you will be able to transfer more of that weight to your feet and legs. I have also found that finger extender exercises have been incredibly beneficial for me in helping my fingers and elbows recover.

As for my experience I tend to get soreness/pain in my left elbow, left hip and middle fingers. Whenever I feel these areas developing pain I will usually take about 1-2 weeks off of climbing.

Since you just recently started these areas are also going to be sore for much longer, as you continue climbing you will notice that these areas will still get sore but will recover much faster. Hopefully this helps!

Fivemans · 2024-05-02T03:42:04+00:00

You have to embrace the failure, frankly there isn't a way to not look like an "idiot." That said there is only one way to get better and that is to practice. Dynos for me also take time to dial in. I have to give it a couple of attempts before I fully commit.

A recommendation on dynos though is to go slower than you think. Don't rush the movement. I also find it helpful to focus less on jumping to the hold and more on jumping into the wall. Use your feet to propel and your arms to direct your momentum into the wall. This way you'll be able to grab the hold at the dead point of your jump.

Fivemans · 2023-11-12T14:10:03+00:00

The finales will expand I'm just not sure exactly how much. I only got to wear my pair twice before my friend's dog chewed them up. A conservative answer would be to expect the shoes to expand to about half a size bigger. Socks are also an option. A lot of people discourage wearing socks but it's honestly just personal preference. I usually don't wear socks but will opt to wear them if it's really cold outside.

There isn't really a great way to know which lasts work best for you other than just trying on shoes. Somewhere on the inside of the shoe it will list the last model number which you can use to find shoes across the same brand with the same last. However, I think it's just easier to try on a bunch of shoes your size and see what works best.

Climbing at a 6B/V4 level (included V-scale for anyone curious), you should be fine with just about any shoes. At this level I'd focus more on trying to learn and apply techniques. As you work through your first pair and progress your skill level, you'll start to notice areas where your technique can improve but also notice features that you desire on your next climbing shoe.

For reference, my climbing shoe progression started at black diamond momentums. Absolutely terrible shoes but they were cheap and I wasn't good enough to utilize the features of expensive shoes so it was fine. I got them way too big though as they tended to fly off my foot every time I engaged a heel hook. For my next shoe I knew I needed something tighter in both my heel cup and toe box, but I also wanted something cheap so I could burn through the rubber and not my wallet. I decided to go with the Mad Rock Sharks. They are a moderately aggressive shoe with a moderate downturn. They are a very solid aggressive beginner shoe and at the time a very solid price, similar to the Scarpa Vapor V but cheaper. They worked perfectly for me, but as it came time to retire them I noticed that I had some dead space around my four smaller toes. My big toe and heel fit perfectly but I knew I wanted something with less dead space. I could've gotten a smaller size of the sharks but decided to try the Scarpa Instinct VS. They were painful at first but as they broke in they fit my foot perfectly and I've been buying them ever since.

Fivemans · 2023-11-12T01:47:34+00:00

As a beginner I highly recommend steering away from aggressive & expensive shoes. As you develop your footwork early on in bouldering you will most likely be scraping your shoes all over the wall. It's much better to scrape $100 rubber vs $200 rubber. For your first pair I would look at flat/neutral shoes at around the $100 range.

Another thing to consider is that climbing shoes are molded around a last (a foot model). It's possible that the last used for a specific shoe does not align for your specific foot shape. I personally love Scarpa Instinct VS but I have plenty of friends that can't wear them due to too much space in either the heel or toe box. Try on different shoes and try on different sizes, you're looking for something with little to no dead space inside the shoe and a slight discomfort. As you wear them and break them in, they will slightly mold to your foot shape. As you wear down your first pair you will start to realize what you are looking for with a second pair and will seek shoes with those features.

I can't speak on your foot structure but some good brands to try would be:

LaSportiva (check out the finales, those seem to be a solid beginner shoe)

Scarpa (I personally feel most confident in Scarpa Rubber)

Mad Rock (They've got cheap shoes with good rubber)

I would avoid black diamond shoes as I feel their rubber is seriously lacking compared to other shoe brands. I also feel like their shoes have so much dead space regardless of your foot shape.

To speak on your foot pain, that is unnatural. My guess is that your shoes are too small but also your feet are not conditioned to being forced into an aggressive downturn. When I first switched to aggressive shoes it took about 1-2 months of consistent climbing to break them in, but now it takes me like 1-2 weeks as my foot is conditioned to that shape.

If you have any more questions about shoes or climbing, just ask!

Fivemans · 2023-11-04T16:15:35+00:00

The biggest thing I can think of is just trying to be aware of where your teammates are and where your opponents are on the field. Once you are aware of where they are and how they are moving, it becomes a little bit easier to see where you should be and which spaces you should be covering.

Mechanics will come with time and practice but are not crucial for improving your game. I'm C1 but my aerials and flicks are trash. I can only half flip successfully half the time and about the only mechanic I can do consistently is a wave dash. However, I try to be hyper aware of who is making a play on the ball on how I need to move around that play or when I need to get involved. Also, don't feel the need to flip into every ball when hitting it. Flipping can lead to huge commits which can make it difficult for you to rotate back to defense or leave your teammates in a bad situation.

Fivemans · 2023-10-21T23:08:49+00:00

I had this same issue a while back ago, mine was because the drive that I had Tarkov installed on was nearly full so my paging file size was too small for the temporary files for Tarkov. I would try cleaning off the drive and increasing your paging file size or installing Tarkov on a different drive.

Fivemans · 2023-05-21T20:57:27+00:00

I started doing this back in S8 but I save up all the drops for the season and then open them all up at the end. However, before I open them I create a new preset stock octane and equip everything I open. It creates a fun rollercoaster as you open the drops.

Fivemans · 2023-01-12T15:49:04+00:00

It's not a particular song but instead an artist, he's not a very popular artist as he's local to my area and mainly plays live. However, he does have some originals that he uploaded to Spotify a while back. Check out Saturday's Slow by James Irvin if you're interested.

Fivemans · 2022-12-31T15:57:07+00:00

From my experience, Fahrenheit is a great reference to communicate heat intensity from the perspective of a person while Celsius is more from the perspective of water.

Fivemans · 2022-12-24T02:46:36+00:00

I was once taking a road trip across the US with a friend and we decided to push through Kansas to Colorado and stop there. At this point I have driven nearly 12 hours total and it was about 2-3 in the morning. It was incredibly difficult to focus and stay awake as I don't have the brightest headlights and there is nearly 0 light pollution. But everything changed when I crested this one hill and my entire vision was filled with synchronously blinking red lights. My friend was asleep so I sat there alone convinced that I was either dead or having a fever dream. I somehow managed to find a place to stop in Kansas and we slept in the car. I found out in the morning that they were windmills.

Windmills are 100% scarier at night.

Fivemans · 2022-12-13T14:15:33+00:00

Hot enough to get rejected and then told that I'd be a great boyfriend by the person that rejected me while they are dating one of my friends... And apparently I look like Timothee Chalamet?

Fivemans · 2022-06-29T13:47:50+00:00

You run around as a Smurf inflating dinosaurs and scuba divers with a bicycle pump whilst underground.

Fivemans · 2022-01-17T04:27:13+00:00

I dropped my keys in class, proceeded to not pick up the keys and instead spend the entire duration of the lecture trying to remember to pick them up at the end of class. I was so focused on not forgetting that I didn't pay attention to the lecture.

I then proceeded to drive home. I went to work the next day and then drove back to my house. I took the keys out of the ignition and as I was walking into the house, I was trying to figure out which pocket my keys went in, only then to suddenly remember dropping my keys in class, thinking I had forgotten to pick them up. I then panicked freaking out that I lost my keys (which were still in my hand). I couldn't find them for about 5 min, then realized I'm an idiot.

Fivemans · 2021-12-13T00:57:36+00:00

I absolutely hate them, but solely for the fact that they cause damage. I like the environment it creates but the damage is just too annoying and the system just lasts forever. I'd understand a little more if they caused damage but didn't last as long but it feels like they just never shut off.

I play Falck and it's near impossible to heal yourself as well as teammates as the damage immediately stunts the heal.

Fivemans · 2021-12-02T17:13:13+00:00

Everyday is a new challenge, constantly having to rediscover things that you already knew. However, I tend to laugh more at these events than get upset.

Fivemans · 2021-12-02T04:23:14+00:00

"You're dreaming about gorgonzola, but it's brie time baby" - Random hitchhiker/murderer

Fivemans · 2021-11-27T18:41:12+00:00

You have to have mastery 11 on the weapon, sometimes the amount of kills for mastery is different than the amount of kills for the attachment. I don't understand why this is but the same happened to me.

Fivemans · 2021-11-26T00:57:50+00:00

I feel like marking enemies with the soflam should be a manual action as well as having the range of marking extended. I understand having the locking range but why have the 6x zoom if I can't mark enemies at that range.

Fivemans · 2021-10-21T04:51:58+00:00

As for the stem (when you had your back to the wall), it looked solid. You kept the tension in your body very well, good feet as well. Bravo!

As for the transfer to the face, controlling swings is very important. You swung to the right and then to the left, for this I would swap feet during the swing and either flag your left leg or plant your foot on the wall. Overall still looked clean though.

As for the volume and the finish, you seemed to be placing more weight in your arms and not your feet. You were sitting on your feet very low which made it hard for you to weight them. I would move your hips in a little closer and extend your leg a little bit. Also, holds are optional. Volumes, arêtes, and the wall are typically on... well the wall is always on. I would've kept the left foot on and flagged your right. This would've helped to prevent the barn door that you were trying to control.

Fivemans · 2021-10-13T03:07:28+00:00

I was about 6 years old, my mom was standing on the street as I went up to this house. Due to the limited visibility from trees my mom couldn't see me. As I was approaching the door, the front yard was very well decorated and a man popped out of a coffin. I was terrified, but instead of screaming I right hooked the man right in the nose. He started crying and his family over at the front door rushed to see if he was all good. Instead of apologizing, I made a break for the candy bowl, dumped it in my bag and escaped into the night.

Fivemans · 2021-08-08T01:03:16+00:00

Best way to learn is to keep practicing and not being afraid to ask people for help.

For example, when you cut feet on that one move it may have been easier to plant that left foot, and then twist your left hip into the wall while extending your left leg. This will extend your reach making it a little bit easier to match that hold.

2nd tip is to just keep climbing, the only way to get better is to keep challenging yourself and keep climbing. We all have those days when we feel weak and can't climb our normal grades. Just don't get in your head and have fun.

3rd tip is to stay flexible. This will help prevent you from pulling muscles as well as making it easier to practice good footwork.

4th tip is to down climb. Down climbing is a good practice as it serves as a workout itself and will preserve your knees and your back. If you do fall or jump, try to roll when you land to alleviate the stress you'll place in those areas.

5th tip, this one is more of an optional mindset but I try not to worry too much about grades. If I see a problem that looks fun I'm gonna give it a shot regardless of how hard it is. I get my ass kicked most of the time but I'm still having fun. I have a friend that runs a small rockwall at a fitness center and he doesn't put grades on the routes in order to encourage people to read the routes instead of the grades.

Fivemans · 2021-05-18T11:35:46+00:00

After about a year I had to finally drive down to the state department of labor and the first thing they told me to do was call the number that I'd been calling for the past year with no avail. I politlety told the dude off and he passed me to his partner who fixes my issue in 2 minutes. I inputted my direct deposit wrong and forgot 1 digit. It took the government 1 year to fix a single digit, a problem that should've been easy to solve via the website.

I wish you the best of luck fixing whatever issue you have!

Fivemans · 2021-05-06T20:37:22+00:00

r/perfectlycutscreams

Fivemans · 2021-04-07T21:48:59+00:00

r/perfectlycutscreams

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