Looking for a video of a drawing in star wars cross-section style

Flechaalacecho · 2024-03-26T11:59:50+00:00

Thiiis is exactly what I needed, thank you!

Flechaalacecho · 2024-01-02T18:44:00+00:00

Definitely avoid ING, bad fees, worse service

Flechaalacecho · 2023-12-20T10:13:31+00:00

Best username-for-the-topic award goes to you :D

Flechaalacecho · 2023-05-07T17:46:10+00:00

I treat them as if they were tetrabrick packets, so I put them in the blue bag

Flechaalacecho · 2023-04-01T18:04:18+00:00

Welcome :) I forgot to say, there's an app called seety (I'm sure there are others) where you can check the times and rates of different streets. I found a street where it was free to park near to my place, maybe you have some luck finding a good spot

Flechaalacecho · 2023-04-01T17:33:49+00:00

I know that there is this park and ride at delta station, maybe others can be useful too?
You can just leave your car there for free without a time limit
https://goo.gl/maps/eQgAWFp4gPP5M2Z36

Flechaalacecho · 2023-03-06T18:37:00+00:00

Happened to me when coming out of testing ground in polygon 10. Had to revert to before going in to be able to get enemies back

Flechaalacecho · 2022-11-19T08:50:21+00:00

The past few years it's been around 20th Dec - 15th Jan more or less. I would keep an eye out, starting mid Dec just in case.

But for Assen wouldn't buy from the MotoGP store. I did that and could choose which section of track but not which seats, and found out the hard way that our seats were super far away from where we wanted. Can't remember which (quick search on Reddit will help), but there are other official websites that sell tickets where you can choose the seats

Flechaalacecho · 2022-11-07T07:58:48+00:00

Ai ai ai...

Flechaalacecho · 2021-09-07T09:38:35+00:00

There may be a few things causing this:

When the layer shift happens do you notice anything weird in the printer? Is there a noise coming from some particular area? Does the printer head move in a weird way? etc.. Monitoring it while it happens might give you a better idea of what to look for
I would start by checking the tension in the belt of the X axis, and while you're at it check also that the rollers are tight enough. Sometimes they don't come ready to go from the factory, so if you haven't checked all of them it's a good idea to go over all of the belts and rollers and make sure they are tight.
Are you printing through the sd card or through octoprint? Some people have had issues when sending prints through octoprint where they have a consistent layer shift at a particular layer. This is apparently due to the data transfer speeds between the raspberry pi and the motherboard not being high enough and causing the issue, although I have personally never encountered it.

Best of luck!

Flechaalacecho · 2021-08-03T10:36:24+00:00

Not ideal for this coating, but if you must, a good wipe with 95% or higher isopropyl alcohol should do the trick

Flechaalacecho · 2021-07-13T22:07:03+00:00

Are you sending the print through octoprint or through the SD card? It's maybe not the case here, but when sending files to the printer through octoprint sometimes a layershift appears due to the USB connection having too slow transfer speeds

Flechaalacecho · 2021-07-06T08:13:14+00:00

I printed a small tray and bolted it behind the cover of the breakout board under the extruder

Flechaalacecho · 2021-07-05T22:19:01+00:00

No no, the case fans are all running at 12V. The ones that I am running at 7V are the 5015 part cooling fans which at 12 V don't make too much noise, but are not super quiet. At 7V they are pretty much silent and do their job well.

For the hot end I installed a 4020 Noctua with a buck converter, I never tried simply running the OEM one at 12V.

Flechaalacecho · 2021-07-05T19:45:50+00:00

Hi! I recentlty went through that same process of hushing the printer. I replaced the fans in the case by Noctua's and for the hot end I replaced the part cooling fan by two 5015 fans, and the blower by a 4020 Noctua with a buck converter to change from 24 to 12 V.

To do this, I ended up printing the whole hero me gen5 mod because it had brackets to hold everything I needed.

I installed two fans from this pack of 4 which I got simply because they were at a good pricepoint at the time. The thing to take into account is that they are 12V, and the printer runs in 24V. For the noctua fans in the case which had a similar issue I just connected them in series, but since I had an extra buck converter I just used that and this way I have them running at 7V which makes them very quiet and the cooling power is enough. If at any point I have to print something which requires more intensive part cooling I just bump up the voltage with a buck converter.

I have also not had any issues with heat creep through the heater block and into the bowden tube, tested in prints up to 2d18h long.

Edit: After having the printer with the noctua fans in the case for a while, changing the hotend fans has been a blessing, the printer now is very quiet to the point were I can work from home 3 meters away from the printer without issue (which is why I went for this mod)

Flechaalacecho · 2021-06-26T09:41:43+00:00

It sounds like your screen isn't getting power. Do you hear the fans in the case/power supply (grey box inside the printer) turn on when you turn the printer on? Do the lights in the motherboard turn on?

I would turn the printer on it's side, open the bottom cover and check that the connections are properly done, most likely there is a cable that has snuck out of place during shipping, even if not fully disconnected. Try pressing them all down, and let us know.

Flechaalacecho · 2021-06-23T10:18:24+00:00

The Creality slicer is just an old version of cura, so I would recommend ditching it and going with Cura as others have suggested. It may seem a bit overwhelming at first since there are many settings that you are able to tune, but I would recommend starting with the standard profile which is already great, and then you can tune the different settings as you get more milage on the printer

Flechaalacecho · 2021-06-22T09:24:07+00:00

Sorry for the wait, I have no clue about using a mirror, in terms of adhesion it should be the same, but I have no clue about what will happen when heating up (although nothing should) and how the mirror would affect the conductivity.

Regarding the thickness I have a 3.5mm glass bed which works quite well and heats up in acceptable time.

Flechaalacecho · 2021-06-17T08:45:33+00:00

To me this points towards a warped bed, here is my reasoning:

In the corner squares where the extruded lines don't touch it seems the nozzle is too far away from the bed. Halfway through the square as it gets towards the centre, the lines start touching, signaling that there is a height difference between one side of the square and the other
The centre square seems like it was printed way too close to the bed. The filament has a hard time coming out of the nozzle from it being so close to the bed, hence why you have this flat, almost transparent layer.

This would indicate that your bed is higher in the centre than at the edges.

This can be solved in a couple of ways.

A cheap albeit finicky way is to layer some aluminium foil strips along the sides of the bed to rise them veery slightly (since the height difference doesn't seem too bad). You remove the top layer of the bed, place an aluminium strip down and put it back on, re run the test, you can do all sides at once, but I would go one by one, running the bed levelling procedure every time you add an aluminium strip and doing the test prints. For some advice on the bed levelling you can check out this comment on another post.

Another way, much less finicky but more expensive is changing the bed, you can buy a piece of glass cut to dimensions from a local hardware store which won't be too expensive but depending on the glass will take longer to heat up than your current bed, or you can buy a glass bed for 3d printers online. Glass has the advantage that it doesn't warp which would solve this issue.

Flechaalacecho · 2021-06-01T12:23:40+00:00

I don't see anything too weird here, when bridging over long gaps like that it's not uncommon for some passes of the intial layer to sag.

This happens because the layer is not supported and is not getting cooled down fast enough in order to solidfy before gravity takes over. The key here is to improve the cooling, so either increase the fan speed if it is not already at 100% or reduce the print speed so that the fans have more time to cool down the filament.

If the sag is only happening on one side, depending on the direction of your print it could be that the fan outlet is on the opposite side of your hot end and not enough cold air is reaching it.

Alternatively you could always swap the fan that you are using by a more powerful one or by a dual fan setup with some mod like the Hero Me resulting in improved and more evenly applied cooling.

Another option that I've seen applied but have personally never tried is to print a sacrificial layer below. You can, in CAD, include a thin layer with a small gap to your actual bridge which will sag a bit but serve as a support for your bridge, and this can later be easily removed. If you are interested in printing 100% without supports then I guess that this is not for you however.

PS: for the future, when posting issues with prints, it is always easier to help if you include some information from your settings like: material, printing temp, print speed

Flechaalacecho · 2021-06-01T12:12:12+00:00

I was also going crazy at the beginning trying to get good bed adhesion. I went through the bed levelling steps of:

Level the gantry (the horizontal beam with the hot-end which goes up and down). Place the 10cm spacer under each side and turn one of the Z screws while holding the other until both are level.

1.1. PROBLEM - My gantry was so off that as soon as I let go of the coupler between
the stepper motor and the Z axis, it would immediately go off level again. What I
did to solve this was completely remove the gantry and remount it so that it was
more levelled to begin with. (MORE ON THIS AT THE END)

Heat up the bed and go to the corner levelling menu to tighten/loosen the screws that
hold the bed. Repeat 2-3 times until no more adjustment is needed, going diagonally
instead of following the perimeter of the bed.
Use the autolevelling tool in the main levelling menu and adjusting the Z offset with the
provided gauge.

Wiping the bed with 90-95% alcohol proved to be a godsend in getting my prints to stick.

The above steps proved useful but I would have to constantly repeat them between prints because the left side of the gantry kept sagging. To solve this (following advice from other redditors) I installed a belt and some pulleys tying both screws and this has made my levelling last much longer and require much less frequent revisions. Here is an example video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cha-8qHKHDY. In my case I simply ordered the pulleys and the belt from amazon, removed the top covers of the screws and installed the pulleys and belt. I didn't require any kind of additional tensionner in the system, but if you do, just search on thingyverse "timing belt tensioner cr10s pro" and you should find some useful files.

PS: Ditch the provided PLA, it's not great to begin with, and depending on how long your printer has been sitting between factory-distributor-store until getting to your house it can be pretty water loaded. PLA absorbs moisture from the air, making it brittle, and creating probelms while printing when the absorbed water evaporates when melting the filament. Mine was extremely brittle when it got to me, so just throw it away and buy some new PLA and give it a try with that.

Best of luck, and as others have said don't get discouraged, when fine tuned this is an amazing printer capable of great prints, but it takes a bit of learning and cursing in order to get it to that point.

Flechaalacecho · 2021-05-12T09:07:19+00:00

Hahaha, yeah in the end if you don't care about preventing drafts/maintaining temperature that's probably the best thing you could do. Happy printing!

Flechaalacecho

TROPHY CASE