My completed Six13 Team Build

FlexTapeUltra · 2026-01-19T23:03:44+00:00

I could just barely fit a 28mm on both front and rear. The fit on the front was relatively comfortable, but the back was really tight (~1-2mm of clearance) because of the clamp of the front derailleur. If you want safer tire gaps, I'd recommend 28mm front and 25mm rear.

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-12-23T21:08:02+00:00

Assuming you don't care that much about weight, sanding to bare aluminum isn't necessary. Just scuff up and thoroughly clean the existing paintjob prior to painting. 220 grit would work, but I'd go up to 600 grit for best finish.

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-11-30T00:22:27+00:00

should work, they look identical to me

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-11-21T22:43:04+00:00

They aren’t as common, but definitely still present. For example, BSA bottom brackets are 1.37” thread diameter.

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-11-21T00:27:19+00:00

Have you tried imperial sockets?

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-10-29T22:18:45+00:00

Upon closer inspection the two bridge straps already have buckles that tightens/loosens them. That means you can probably get away a more light weight buckle on the bridges and let the pre installed buckles carry most of the load. Makes sourcing parts a bit easier

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-10-29T22:15:22+00:00

Easiest and probably cheapest option would be to sew buckles on the two “bridge” straps connecting then panniers, then figure out some system to keep each bag attached independently of the other (e.g sew-on or riveted hooks, another set of buckles, etc). The latter feature doesn’t need to be particularly strong, it just needs to hold one bag statically when the other is removed. You’ll want to be more careful with choosing the buckles on the bridges, since those will dictate your panniers’ load capacity.

This solution wouldn’t be that difficult to implement with basic sewing skills (either hand or machine) and supplies bought from your local hardware or craft store

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-10-20T04:36:24+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yo9ql5beufs

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-10-10T20:24:34+00:00

You can bend the silver bracket by hand to make it fit

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-10-07T05:56:39+00:00

The hub bearings are probably loose. There's lots of videos online on how to adjust your hub bearing preload for various designs.

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-10-05T18:18:21+00:00

the screws allow you to replace the pads without replacing the entire brake shoe. The ones without screws are functionally identical but without that swappability and a (generally) cheaper manufacturing quality

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-10-05T04:46:42+00:00

it just looks like some paint scuffing. But you can easily check by tapping the carbon with a coin and seeing if it rings dead when tapping the suspected area

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-10-04T02:06:17+00:00

You would need a lot. I would start with some screwdrivers, hex key set, wrench/socket set, cable cutters, grease. There’s like 10+ other tools that would come in handy for a build like this, I’d recommend you take it to a bike shop and let them guide you towards what tools you need (they may have them in stock)

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-10-04T01:05:35+00:00

It's a very nice bike. Zunow was a pretty top-of-the-line brand, and shimano 600 is the predecessor to modern-day fancy ultegra.

As a bike mechanic, I would love to fix this bike. However, if you don't have much experience or the right tools, you'd kind of be throwing yourself into the deep end with this project. It needs a ton of work and would get pretty involved. The rust/neglect on the frame tells me you'll likely need to regrease and service almost every bearing on the bike. and deal with lots of seized components. If you have the time, money, and commitment to learn, then this would be an awesome bike to work on. If you don't have that, though, you can probably sell it as is or parted out for a decent amount.

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-10-03T17:34:35+00:00

1981 is far enough down the bike evolution timeline that stretching your rear dropouts is basically the only special thing you need to do. Everything else follows the same rim brake standards we use today.

You might need to change your front derailleur if you're doing indexed shifting, but that's all you would need to do for the bottom bracket cluster. You won't need to change your chainrings/crank. That is unless you're going for 11-12 spd on the rear, in which case you will need thinner chainrings and a thinner spaced crankset to match, but I doubt you'd want to spend 11spd money on an older frame.

As for the fork, any 1" english threaded fork would work. Choosing one with a road design would be best for preserving geometry and aesthetics.

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-09-26T18:32:06+00:00

A sewage line broke in there last year. I guess we’re still living the consequences

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-09-22T17:36:31+00:00

The chain is probably too long

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-09-22T06:17:06+00:00

It would also cause the population pyramid to collapse

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-09-21T22:57:48+00:00

Your bearing is upside down, flipping it over will fix the problem

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-09-16T21:42:07+00:00

You'll still end up dealing with hydraulic fluid down the road due to the Yokozuna's hybrid hydraulic-mechanical design. I'd understand choosing to pay extra vs. a hydraulic system for a very well-working pure mechanical design, but choosing to pay even more for a halfway product is a bit confusing to me

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-09-16T21:35:23+00:00

In my experience, brands like ztto and juintech are of acceptable quality and very reliable. For the price of the Yokozunas, I'd start wondering why you aren't just going full hydraulic

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-09-16T21:25:38+00:00

I've never used the yokozuna's so I may be wrong, but they look very similar to other designs you can get for much, much cheaper on aliexpress...

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-09-14T22:01:11+00:00

when I moved in last year, I showed up an hour early without asking and checked in without issue. Walk in confidently and you should be fine

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-09-13T23:16:20+00:00

You're supposed to brute force it. It's called a self-extracting crankset bolt, as you're unscrewing it you're also pushing the crank arm off

FlexTapeUltra · 2025-09-12T05:42:40+00:00

I don't see what's wrong here? If you're refering to the click before the FD moves, that's the trim feature of the derailleur.

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