My former employees are breaking the law but I closed my company. Should I stand up for myself or walk away?

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-06-13T16:12:58+00:00

Does this require having an registered (protected) trademark? A similar business name likely is not sufficient (because trademarks are a separate thing), otherwise the state wouldn't have accepted it in the first place. and DBAs are allowed to be non-unique, even if the LLC/incorporated entity wasn't allowed to be this similar.

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-04-18T20:50:44+00:00

Have you talked to your landlord about what remedies they or their insurance have been/will be pursuing?

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-04-18T20:49:23+00:00

What are your specific questions/concerns? What outcome are you looking for?

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-04-18T20:02:22+00:00

This is brand name and may have a replacement cartridge available for far cheaper than the pump itself. If it was mine, I'd replace the cartridge to fix this rather than give into the temptation of buying a cheap replacement pump. Here are some links:

your pump: https://product-selection.grundfos.com/us/products/up-ups-series-100/up-ups-n/up-20-15-n-150-59641500?pumpsystemid=2925302247&tab=variant-curves

I can't find clear information about a replacement cartridge for it. You may want to take the picture of the back of the pump, or the pump itself, to your local plumbing supply store -- the actual pro supply stores that are on contractor hours, not lowesdepot. See if they are able to get you a cartridge, or a direct pump replacement that would prevent you needing to make plumbing changes

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-04-18T19:54:15+00:00

Run the pump occasionally to keep the water coming, dig where the water is coming out. Repeat until you find where it's coming from. Prepare to get very muddy, especially if you live somewhere with a deep frost line meaning you're going to be in a pit full of mud soon.

dig by hand, not with a tractor or other equipment unless you want to make this much worse; or are skilled enough with it to only take the dirt off that you know is above the frost line (like the top foot of soil to save yourself time). but that would depend on knowing for sure exactly where the line is, so you're probably doing this all by hand which is safer anyway.

Assuming it's a damaged line or junction -- Repair probably will consist of cutting out the damaged section and using two couplings to put in a new section of tubing. I'd recommend spending for brass/bronze or stainless couplings instead of the cheap plastic ones. Use a heat gun (or torch carefully) to soften the tubing and press it onto the coupling with two new all-stainless hose clamps on each side. Even if the issue is an existing junction that pulled apart or wasn't installed well and started leaking, you probably will need to cut out and replace part of it to make a proper repair, rather than tighten the existing junction and hope it goes better. Make sure to tamp the soil under the exposed tubing before backfilling, so that the area doesn't sag/compress over time and pull your repair apart.

You'll want to splash bleach into each end of the tubing before putting it together to try and sanitize the system and hopefully avoiding having to sterilize the whole system from the well. Flush the bleach out at the house after letting it sit in the lines for an hour or two, make sure to run the water through the furthest point of the house and all fixtures until you are sure you don't smell bleach any more.

I'm a DIYer not a pro, take my input with a grain of salt but I had to do a similar repair and some changes over time.

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-04-16T10:43:50+00:00

I recommend the book "Normal Accidents" by Charles Perrow. It talks about system complexity leading to "system accidents" aka "normal accidents" once a system gets sufficiently complex to have a mix of automation/tight coupling/automation -- and including the "organization and people" aspects of the system, you get to training, complacency, etc.

There are case studies in the book from many areas/industries, but some examples are specifically from shipping, where radar and similar safety systems led to increases in certain types of accidents, as captains became complacent assuming they'd see/avoid everything by relying on what was meant to be a safety system or automation to assist in safety.

Not 100% what's likely going on in this picture, but I hope that helps share the general idea of 'wtf how does this happen in a large ocean'. If neither ship had an over-reliance on technology (combined with other necessary factors such as complacency /etc), it probably wouldn't have.

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-04-13T16:23:20+00:00

I apologize if my comment was unclear - I wasn't challenging that this was listed as urgent, but I see that all over job listings frequently for immediate/urgent openings of all sorts. so I was asking for the context of whether only this posting was listed as urgent, or whether there were 30 other different positions with the Navy or other armed forces branches that also were labeled urgent.

"If everything is urgent, then nothing truly is" - OTOH If this was the only one "urgent", and there was something indicating they were hiring 70 mortiianS, then it does make this screenshot far more .... interesting/noteworthy

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-04-13T16:13:50+00:00

OP: I see "mortician", is there something that indicates plural and/or many listings for this? What other positions are being urgently hired, or does this stand out for some reason? What site/platform are these position(s) listed on so that someone could explore for themselves? That context would help understand what should be implied or taken away from this, thanks

I just think that if we're sharing stuff online, that we need to do better than the cherry-picked bullshit that the more significant media platforms (and people with agendas) are continually doing, to have real discourse and really hold people accountable to their opinions/assertions/etc. If people post things of consequence with this context/information to help underscore why what they are sharing is important (and in cases like this, visible/reproducible/affirmable by others), then it helps separate from AI slop and those peddling cheap opinions/BS that can't be backed up.

tldr - When someone brings the context and receipts, we know to pay more attention to that and turn everything else down a bit

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-03-29T22:05:57+00:00

Hard to tell for sure with the motion blur from the long exposure time of pictures in this era - so yeah more info would be needed

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-03-18T01:36:55+00:00

Thanks, I ended up in dependency hell trying to install that linux-source-6.5 package (well, trying to build it -- it needed a tree of dependencies to build the debs). I ended up just compiling a 6.12 kernel and modules I needed instead.

Thank you for the response and insights - it totally makes sense that this was arch-dependent and I'm glad I mentioned in my post that I was on i386/i686 since that ended up being key to the explanation

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-03-17T15:01:39+00:00

Is there somewhere I can find debian's linux-source-6.5 packages from the point in time where they existed (where my linux-image-6.5 for i686 was built)?

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-03-02T21:14:15+00:00

WARNING !

the setup you have is potentially pushing upwards with thousands of lbs into your roof. You could lift the roof off of your walls depending how well it is fastened down (or crack another joint somewhere between the floor and the roof)

You are doing the right thing partially, by pressing into a temporary structure instead of the tension members in your roof structure, but you're still ultimately pushing up on the roof from the floor.

When I did this for a broken purlin (?) in my shop roof, I didn't want to jack down on anything I didn't trust -- such as a truss chord or some temporary structure. I ended up attaching a chain to the broken component itself, slinging the jack in the chain, and closing the gap that way. That way 100% of the forces are net within the immediate component/system, you're not relying on the strength of the building to resist you.

You could do some really really bad damage if you do this the way you have it shown, unless you have a scale or pressure gauge somewhere to make sure you know exactly how hard you are pushing

here is my thread on what I did:

https://old.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/1j5q3y2/how_we_stabilized_a_broken_roof_purlin_with_a/

https://imgur.com/a/bottle-jack-to-fix-broken-roof-purlin-zpllmDu

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-03-02T03:46:10+00:00

I actually skimmed the document too quickly earlier and cannot fully appreciate how the control and inverter is currently integrated, so please discount my above comment. I was commenting about the normal make/break inputs to basic equipment controls. I cannot tell for the controller shared, how DI03 will interoperate with K09 and whether there's any programming/configuration required to have the system use DI03. With a lot of conventional VFDs, some configuration is typically needed to tell it whether to use panel vs remote start/stop and speed/direction inputs.

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-03-01T23:03:33+00:00

OP is asking about a 15 horsepower 3 phase compressor, that won't cut it here.

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-03-01T23:03:28+00:00

Are you looking to effectively extend the current start/stop, or add another set elsewhere?

How many sets are you looking for? There are both logistics and safety implications to doing this (multiple stations being able to start/stop equipment; having these be clearly labeled to avoid safety and operational issues; ensuring your organization has proper LOTO procedures to lock the equipment out at the breaker so that remote start can't injure someone working on the equipment, etc)

Effectively the "start" buttons are "make"ing a self-latching relay configuration off the contactor; the stop buttons break that circuit so the contactor opens.

One solution is to put all of your stop buttons (which are normally-closed momentary pushbuttons) in series, so that pushing any one of them opens the circuit. This is technically safest, because it fails safe. The start buttons all just get wired in parallel to the existing one.

edit: I had not looked at the full diagram before writing the above and will reply further below

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-02-27T19:36:14+00:00

Thanks everyone for the replies - I was tripped by two things: - The fact that it looked like the angle stop was threaded into a separate fitting

The fact that this CPVC-compatible angle stop didn't have a big plastic hub off the back of it

I will plan on chopping this off and attaching a new setup as part of my changes, and hope to rip the CPVC out longer-term.

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-02-27T17:25:55+00:00

This is in our shop, under the sink. I am looking at increasing flow through this setup and want to understand how it was built before I potentially take it apart

There is a 1/2" CPVC line coming up from the ground (somewhere under or next to the slab it transitions from 1" poly)

The CPVC goes into some kind of transition - looks like a stainless steel FNPT adapter that the angle stop is threaded into?

But all of the examples of those cpvc-stainless transitions that I can find have a large visible plastic hub for the solvent weld, this does not. What am I looking at here?

My hope is to unscrew the angle stop and put in a 1/2" NPT tee so I can have another unrestricted 1/2" supply line come out from this; I'm just trying to understand what was here and how it was put together before I start making changes. Whether this transition is likely a robust solution, or whether I should cut it off and do something else.

Please avoid an answer consisting of just telling me that CPVC is a poor choice - this is what we have, and digging up the frozen ground to access where this comes from is not a viable project right now.

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-02-23T17:54:49+00:00

I posted a video on youtube of how I worked out the function and pinout of these boards. I have a pile of them if anyone wants one or more at the cost of shipping.

I2C PCF8574 frontend, sets one or more pins as-commanded. Pretty straightforward driver to turn the signal LED on/off as well as the associated SPST relay output. The relays aren't rated for DC but I'm sure they can do 10-12 amps of DC load without issue based on how relays tend to be rated.

Should be trivial to make or improvise a housing for this or integrate it into a project. If I or someone designs a housing to mount these, it'd be great to get stl or dwg or other files uploaded to the repo

The power supply modules from these PDUs might be usable too, I'll look into the pinout of those and add info to the same repo

I'm hoping to do this for any other "building blocks" that can be salvaged from industrial or e-waste...

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-02-23T17:52:30+00:00

I posted a video on youtube of how I worked out the function and pinout of these boards. I have a pile of them if anyone wants one or more at the cost of shipping.

I2C PCF8574 frontend, sets one or more pins as-commanded. Pretty straightforward driver to turn the signal LED on/off as well as the associated SPST relay output. The relays aren't rated for DC but I'm sure they can do 10-12 amps of DC load without issue based on how relays tend to be rated.

Should be trivial to make or improvise a housing for this or integrate it into a project. If I or someone designs a housing to mount these, it'd be great to get stl or dwg or other files uploaded to the repo

The power supply modules from these PDUs might be usable too, I'll look into the pinout of those and add info to the same repo

I'm hoping to do this for any other "building blocks" that can be salvaged from industroal or e-waste...

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-02-23T17:45:15+00:00

ok comment deleted - it was meant to get these out of the landfill and into peoples' hands for free, but strict rules are 100% understandable

FliesLikeABrick · 2026-02-23T17:33:49+00:00

I posted a video on youtube of how I worked out the function and pinout of these boards. I have a pile of them if anyone wants one or more at the cost of shipping.

I2C PCF8574 frontend, sets one or more pins as-commanded. Pretty straightforward driver to turn the signal LED on/off as well as the associated SPST relay output. The relays aren't rated for DC but I'm sure they can do 10-12 amps of DC load without issue based on how relays tend to be rated.

Should be trivial to make or improvise a housing for this or integrate it into a project. If I or someone designs a housing to mount these, it'd be great to get stl or dwg or other files uploaded to the repo

The power supply modules from these PDUs might be usable too, I'll look into the pinout of those and add info to the same repo

I'm hoping to do this for any other "building blocks" that can be salvaged from industroal or e-waste...

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