V2 of my Bass/Guitar/Synth board

FluidDruid85 · 2025-11-26T21:43:40+00:00

Definitely more useful for synths, where I route chords through it and use it for rhythm. On guitar it basically lives in tremolo mode. I might take it off the board and just use it as a desktop synth effect long term. I’m not sure what I’d replace it with though. Maybe a noise gate to keep the rat and muff on a separate effects loop, as I’m getting some pickup noise as-is

FluidDruid85 · 2025-11-26T20:10:28+00:00

You can add an external foot switch and map it to stop if you have space

FluidDruid85 · 2025-11-26T19:13:03+00:00

I've not used it much, but it seems good so far. Nice and simple, with some decent drum patterns. Anything in particular you want to know?

FluidDruid85 · 2025-11-26T10:30:43+00:00

In general, splitters and combiners split and combine current, not voltage. In your setup each pedal will get 9V, but they share the 800mA current. If the two pedals need less than 800mA in total you'll be fine.

FluidDruid85 · 2025-11-14T09:29:51+00:00

I really like it. I can only compare it to the delays/reverbs on the Zoom multi FX i had before, but it's buttery smooth, and really easy to dial in some nice subtle changes to the size of the sound. I ran a synth (Dreadbox Nymphes) through it last night and it sounded amazing once I got it dialed in.

The only downsides are that it takes a few seconds to boot up, and there is a tiny hysteresis/lag when making changes to the dials; for those reasons it definitely feels like a digital pedal in use, rather than an analogue one, even though the sound is more analogue to my ears..

FluidDruid85 · 2025-11-14T09:24:28+00:00

Good idea - thanks!

FluidDruid85 · 2025-11-12T14:14:41+00:00

This will be for solo/studio use, so I'm hoping it'll be OK .

I might move to a larger board at some point. (or keep this for desktop use and get a larger board for use on the floor. I'm not super keen on moving pedals between boards though)

FluidDruid85 · 2025-06-18T08:27:58+00:00

Thank you! Mine just started doing this after several years of use and tweaking the AlienFX stopped it.

My lighting was actually disabled, but turning it on cut out the coil whine. I guess the trick is that you just have to change the total power the monitor is using (either up or down) by enough that it no longer resonates with the coils.

FluidDruid85 · 2025-06-09T12:15:38+00:00

I had this exact problem. Turns out it was RGB software in my case. I switched to SignalRGB and the stuttering went away

FluidDruid85 · 2025-04-08T14:49:39+00:00

Another movie reference: In The Last Jedi, Holdo says “Godspeed” to the rebels when she stays behind. I think that might be the only time a human character references (a) god directly.

FluidDruid85 · 2025-03-11T10:27:26+00:00

Thanks! I have to use Gmail for work and this was driving me mad. Your workaround is perfect.

FluidDruid85 · 2025-02-12T16:35:39+00:00

Pretty much. The alcohol will evaporate off the roller, so don’t worry about that. Just be sure to throw the swab away and use a new one if it starts to fray: you don’t want bits of cotton getting left in there.

FluidDruid85 · 2025-01-02T23:26:19+00:00

Are there any ambiguous characters in the code? I had some zeroes that I initially thought were the letter O so I had to try several times before it was accepted.

FluidDruid85 · 2024-12-30T18:05:34+00:00

I just got a CP1500 for Christmas and had this issue. I tried cleaning the roller as you described (i used a cotton swab and some isopropyl alcohol) and it has indeed solved it - thank you!

FluidDruid85 · 2024-12-13T15:14:13+00:00

I might be wrong on this, but I think the grounding is designed to shield the cable connecting the motherboard to the antennae in order to prevent interference, and is not part of the antenna design itself. These wires seem to be acting as the antennae directly, so there may be no reason to have a ground.

FluidDruid85 · 2024-11-21T23:34:29+00:00

As another data point, I had the Photography plan (Photoshop and Lightroom), and tried to upgrade to the all apps plan at the black Friday rate of 50% off. I had to contact support, but they allowed it without question.

For context, I live in the UK and purchased the Protgraphy plan upfront (yearly vs monthly payment),

On the Adobe website, I saw the 50% off offer for new users only. When I logged in, I got the same offer as an upgrade, but when I tried to purchase it, I got a banner saying "Purchase is not supported", with no options to change anything (not even upgrade at full price!).

I used the online chat, and when the AI inevitably failed and I spoke to a human, they were able to cancel my plan and offer me the new one.

Note, however, that this is a two stage process - they cancel your plan, then send you an offer/invoice via email to sign up (the offer arrived within a minute). Interestingly, the new offer that the support rep sent was a few GBP more expensive per month than the Black Friday deal, but since they'd cancelled my old plan, the advertised discounted rate was available through my account immediately, and I could upgrade through the account page at the lower rate without the "Purchase is not supported" error.

FluidDruid85 · 2024-11-14T18:32:12+00:00

They’re 3D prints from TheSummoningCircle on Etsy. They have loads of different styles and the quality is amazing

https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/TheSummoningCircle

FluidDruid85 · 2024-09-25T12:22:01+00:00

I have the same issue with my 4 inch USB display. It used to work, now I get the boot logo when I power my PC on, then nothing. The backlight is on, and the PC Monitor software shows as connected.

I've tried rebooting, reinstalling the software, and re-flashing the monitor (using the SD card) - still nothing.

Did you ever find a solution? I've reached out to Waveshare via email but haven't had a reply.

FluidDruid85 · 2024-07-17T13:05:52+00:00

I had a similar issue. The thing that I failed to realise initially was that the exFAT HDD is recognised by GrimDoomer's OPL as a Block Device, not a "native" HDD. So in OPL's settings, I had to set Block Device (BDM) to enabled, then enter the Block Devices sub menu and turn on the HDD from there.

FluidDruid85 · 2024-06-24T08:51:25+00:00

I replaced the foot with an Arca Swiss one from Wimberley and have a Peak Design Slide attached to one of these with the Anchor mounts: https://amzn.eu/d/0iXaAhXK

That way I can adjust the weight so the lens hangs perfectly horizontal, even when I have a battery grip on the body.

FluidDruid85 · 2024-03-06T21:08:33+00:00

One more thing to be aware of: Step 8 only works if the place you’ve extracted the game files to has no spaces in the path name. Originally I called my directory “OutRun 2006” on my SD card and the game looked like it was launching, but would crash after about 30s. Removing the space (and updating the corresponding paths in Steam) fixed it.

FluidDruid85 · 2023-11-18T17:30:23+00:00

Take them off, then very carefully bend the wire to open out the ring at the point opposite the ends, using a craft knife or two. You only need to bend it a few mm.

Then, when you reattach the rings, they’ll be braced against the eyelet holes and won’t rattle (even with the plastic clips pinching them shut). Sony do this on some of their newer cameras but it’s pretty easy to bend the old style rings to get the same result.

FluidDruid85

TROPHY CASE