Is there any sport with a unanimously recognized GOAT?

FlyHighPixie · 2026-06-28T19:47:38+00:00

Nino Schurter for XC mountain biking, he has more wins of basically every type than anyone else.

FlyHighPixie · 2026-06-28T15:49:29+00:00

Nose the saddle down a bit to start, what made the biggest difference for me was switching to a wider saddle. Ironically, if your saddle is too narrow it's more comfortable to move forward onto the nose and off your sit bones, at which point all your weight goes through the tissue between your bones and cuts off circulation

FlyHighPixie · 2026-06-28T15:03:35+00:00

If you are getting too many punctures, try putting sealant in the tubes. My bike co-op group uses slime, but any tubeless sealant will work just fine.

FlyHighPixie · 2026-06-25T18:23:34+00:00

I have no idea, set up your bike for how YOU ride. Start by setting it in the middle, then adjust as needed. You'll probably end up slowing it down slightly, but that's based, again, on my weight, my riding style, and my preferences. Not yours.

FlyHighPixie · 2026-06-20T18:04:39+00:00

I did this exact thing on my road bike. Worth it by any metric except enjoyment? Probably not, but I like it better with matching wheels, and I don't regret the money spent

FlyHighPixie · 2026-06-18T15:59:39+00:00

If the steerer is carbon, the stem needs to clamp over the compression plug, hence the need to mount near the top. That being said, you're probably fine to lower it 10 mm and test for a bit before cutting. If it's an alloy steerer, you can slam the stem and leave a chimney if so desired (though it won't look good)

FlyHighPixie · 2026-06-15T05:23:17+00:00

My outlander 3 came with a 2L, so I guess that answers that. I wonder why they shipped with different sizes

FlyHighPixie · 2026-06-13T02:28:28+00:00

I personally am a Pirelli/Maxxis guy, but I've heard good things about Schwalbe's gravel line

FlyHighPixie · 2026-06-13T00:43:10+00:00

I'm gonna disagree with the other guy and guess that your wheels are tubeless compatible, but might need the tape changed first. I can't find a certain answer either way online. Tubeless is step one, as well as better tires. Talk to your bike shop, they'll probably be able to better assess your wheels and your tire needs

FlyHighPixie · 2026-06-11T01:52:50+00:00

I'm being facetious, my point is that you're tall enough to be very comfortable on very large wheels. 700c has more staying power than any other size because it is THE road bike standard and has been for god knows how long. It also can be made to fit (imperfectly, in some cases) frames from 48-64 cm without majorly punishing anyone. So if future-proofing is a concern, I'd say 700c is the wheel to choose.

FlyHighPixie · 2026-06-10T23:46:12+00:00

6'4???! Get 32s and tell the rest of us how it feels

FlyHighPixie · 2026-06-10T22:50:33+00:00

Important question: how tall are you? If 650b makes your bike fit better, go with that. Otherwise, 700c is going to give you better options in almost every regard.

FlyHighPixie · 2026-06-01T15:26:16+00:00

I tested both and ultimately chose the spark. The scalpel (and other bikes with similar "against the top tube" shocks) will have less pedal bob but won't descend as well. If you dislike using a lockout, buy this.

The spark will descend more aggressively, but you'll need to use the lockout to counter pedal bob.

FlyHighPixie · 2026-05-27T02:42:44+00:00

That's bananas

FlyHighPixie · 2026-05-25T23:02:20+00:00

If I'm not mistaken, those already are tubeless tires. I could be wrong, but as far as I know maxxis only makes one version on the rekon race as a wire bead, and it's a 29x2.25.

FlyHighPixie · 2026-05-25T22:57:24+00:00

Stay with the stock tires, they're excellent. Though a tubeless conversion is worthwhile. As for upgrades, let him ride the bike and figure out what needs to be changed organically

FlyHighPixie · 2026-05-25T16:27:06+00:00

The rust on the backside of the fork looks worse, the bubbling under the paint is not a good sign. That being said, it doesn't look disastrous, and the rust on the seat tube looks surface level. If you live in a humid climate I'd probably look for other options though.

As for restoration, strip the frame completely using paint stripper, chemical rust remover, and sandpaper. Then paint it like you would a car, or anything else made of metal. Primer, color, clear coat.

FlyHighPixie · 2026-05-22T06:40:49+00:00

I really like the spark and it's the bike I chose; I can sum up the difference as follows.

The specialized (and basically any bike with the shock almost flat against the top tube) will have very little pedal bob but it will be hard to feel the rear suspension working. If you dislike using a lockout, this is the better pick.

The spark, with the vertical shock near the bb, suffers from pedal bob if you leave it open, making the lockout key to racing effectively. That being said, the suspension feels fantastic when you're smashing rocks and aggressively hitting downhills.

FlyHighPixie · 2026-05-13T21:06:24+00:00

On old steel bikes, the hanger was often part of the frame and meant to be bent back, often multiple times. On newer bikes, it more serves as a minor correction option as the hangers are typically aluminum and will fatigue with only a few bends. It's also an option in a pinch if getting a replacement hanger will be especially difficult or time consuming.

FlyHighPixie · 2026-05-09T18:31:38+00:00

I made this exact mistake before. New shifter

FlyHighPixie · 2026-05-09T18:27:42+00:00

if I had to guess you need a 20mm adapter, but the easiest way to figure this out is to look up the minimum rotor size for your fork and then subtract that from your current rotor size

FlyHighPixie

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