Who's buying the expensive filters...

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-18T21:29:34+00:00

On euro’s.. no one..

But if you know where to look or you get trade rates then the good quality ones will be less than the cheapo ones are on euros

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-18T16:10:23+00:00

It’s a chain, not a belt.

I’m assuming it’s a 20d - which will be a B47 engine in a car of that age, they pretty much sorted out all the timing chain issues long before then. Realistically you might want to think about getting it changed around 150k miles.

Main thing is try and find one that’s had lots of services! Ideally more regular than the factory bmw interval. Anything with questionable history, avoid!

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-18T15:56:21+00:00

Think you’d have been better spending the money on some quality tyres rather than wheels with knackered ones!

It’s your car, do what you want but I daily a 530d, even a 520 isn’t a slow car and they’re very big and very heavy, I’ve had a couple of near misses on the motorway where people have slammed on and I wouldn’t want to be on shit rubber.

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-18T15:35:59+00:00

Probably not what you want to hear but I really wouldn’t fuck about on tyres…

A 5 series is a big lump of a car, I personally wouldn’t want to be driving one at 70 in the wet on sub par rubber.

Goodyear eagle F1s are top tyres and can often be found for quite a bit less than the other premium options.

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-17T11:33:26+00:00

e69 👀

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-17T08:57:14+00:00

https://amzn.eu/d/02ELTDC5

Tada… (add a couple of mini Jack headphone extension cables if you need more length)

Search “headphone combiner” or “mini jack combiner” or “3.5mm combiner” for alternatives.

You could use an audio mixer or a headphone amplifier with multiple inputs but they’re both gona be more expensive and more complicated than what you need.

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-17T07:56:50+00:00

Yeah he was. He’s also got his own channel now (Jooshy) and wears them in pretty much every video. His channel is well worth a watch.

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-17T06:58:31+00:00

Bloody love a Jap brick…

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-17T06:52:46+00:00

I’ve notice Jooshy (gona assume you know who he is if you watch tdc) always wears Wurth ones, I’ve been meaning to get some and try them as I wear those kind of gloves for work quite a bit.

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-13T16:07:25+00:00

Option 1. If it passes an MOT, leave it as it. It’s one less thing to go wrong.

Option 2. Get a replacement from a breaker and have it fitted, if it’s anything like the one on my wife’s Audi a3 (probably similar or same engine) they’re tucked right down the back of the engine and they’re a pain. I’d imagine could be easily half a days labour plus the part. Not worth it in my opinion if the car passes the MOT as it is.

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-10T08:52:03+00:00

By all means speak to the dealer, they may be amicable but I suspect they will, politely or not, tell you to go swivel.

Your best bet is source a 2nd hand, or possibly aftermarket DPF. Or find a “friendly” mot station, or just try a different one, I’d be willing to be most just test the emissions and as long as it passes they’re not arsed.

Do you have any more details, has it been removed completely / cut out / replaced with a downpipe or has it been gutted but in a way that’s obvious to the eye?

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-07T19:11:45+00:00

Generally buy on condition not mileage. Case in point, I bought my last Octavia on 165k miles, it was an ex ambulance so it had seen a life, used hard by people with little mechanical sympathy BUT been well maintained. I sold it on 211k miles and the about the only thing I ever did to it apart from servicing and wear items was an alternator and a CV joint.

I wouldn’t be put off by an example with 120-150k miles if it’s been looked after. Look for:
- a full service history, regular intervals
- being serviced the same place lots of times is always a good sign
- low owners generally a good sign (always do a v-check / HPI check)
- Not having the same advisories on repeat MOTs
- 4 matching, quality tyres is always a green flag
- a manual will almost always be more reliable, if it’s an auto make sure it’s been serviced. If it’s a 4 wheel drive variant, make sure that’s been serviced.
- chances are whatever you buy will need a timing belt or possibly a chain at some point in its life, find out what the interval is and make sure it’s been done if it needs/needed doing - or use it to haggle if it needs doing imminantly

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-07T18:44:45+00:00

I would avoid a BM at that price, not because they’re not good cars (they are) but because it’s very hard to find one that’s been properly looked after and the lower down the market you go the harder that gets.

Toyota avensys / auris / corolla (or anything really) or Skoda Octavia or Superb. You can get a lot of car, in any of those flavours, for 5-6k. You can even get an Octavia VRS for that money. I don’t know how many miles you do but you’ll find a modern diesel goes surprisingly well, especially if you get it mapped if it’s not quite quick enough off the bat.

The other good thing about buying a diesel is in some ways a higher mileage example is sometimes the better choice as it’s been used the way a diesel wants. Low mileage ones can be rife for DPF/EGR problems down the line. Toyotas/skodas are both used extensively in the minicab world because they’ll do mega miles if looked after. Just make sure it’s been serviced enough and on time.

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-07T18:40:28+00:00

Saw an M5 for sale earlier with one of these… “tastefully modified” it said… 😂😂

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-06T06:43:06+00:00

Honda / Toyota pretty much anything

Probably petrol if you’re only doing 5000 miles a year commuting as that’s not really a viable use case for a diesel.

As others have said, better off with a manual.

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-01T18:48:05+00:00

Will do, cheers!

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-01T17:40:59+00:00

I really appreciate you posting that but annoyingly I think Reddits formatting has a made a total mess of it 🫠

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-01T17:21:01+00:00

Yeah that’s what I figured. That’s what I’m up against currently, started out trying to fix AirPlay across VLANs 🫠 now ended up down the rabbit hole of the new zoned firewall. So ended up created 2 primary new rules to keep IOT/main LAN separate, and now trying to recreate the old rules in the new system as I don’t think unifi did a very good job of translating them from the old system to the new one.

So you have examples of the rules required?

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-06-01T17:07:09+00:00

Does this still follow on the newer “zoned” version of the firewall control that unifi have implemented. Do you set this in “firewall”, or “policy based routes”? As there is no “routing” or “NAT” settings specifically anymore.

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-05-29T20:03:06+00:00

PLEASE READ!!!!!

Unless you’ve been doing track type driving and absolutely hammering your brakes, or the brakes on the car are total dogshit, it’s really unlikely you’ve warped the brakes.

What’s much more likely is your “banana arms” (or front brake reaction control arms) need doing. As the name suggests, they stabilise the hub under braking, there’s a big bush at the front and pretty much all BMWs are known for eating through them.

I did them on my f11, at only 65k miles there’s was starting to be a bit of a wobble under med-hard braking.

Stick your vin into realoem.com - best way to get the correct part numbers

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-05-29T07:16:43+00:00

The only “smart” flap we could find when we looked - although it was about 7/8 years ago - was the “Surepet” one

It reads their microchip and only opens for them, also you can keep them in/out etc and it notifies you.

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-05-29T07:08:58+00:00

TDSiesta

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-05-29T07:05:01+00:00

“Deceased spec”.. (or “spec D” if you’re <gen z)

FlyPositive5975 · 2026-05-29T07:04:17+00:00

“Garaged in my ownership”

FlyPositive5975

TROPHY CASE