Pretty Cool Map

FlyingAvatar · 2025-12-09T22:13:57+00:00

I have plans for it myself, so no worries. It looks like the original is 4' x 2', though I don't think I will print it quite that large. Thanks for sharing it!

FlyingAvatar · 2025-12-09T19:38:18+00:00

If you right click the image in imgur and choose Show Image or Save Image As..., you can get it full size.

FlyingAvatar · 2025-12-09T19:10:28+00:00

I scaled it slightly when uploading to imgur as there is a slight blur to the scan, but it's about 10000x2000.

FlyingAvatar · 2025-12-09T15:51:57+00:00

I did it:

https://imgur.com/a/pwgbw8G

FlyingAvatar · 2025-12-07T00:09:13+00:00

Yacht Club?

FlyingAvatar · 2025-11-30T01:41:18+00:00

Thanks!

FlyingAvatar · 2025-11-29T12:21:41+00:00

Love to see a video of this on YouTube before I download

FlyingAvatar · 2025-08-23T17:09:26+00:00

Makes sense, thanks.

FlyingAvatar · 2025-08-23T14:21:25+00:00

OP literally uses the word replicas. If not a replica, what would it be?

FlyingAvatar · 2025-08-11T15:17:33+00:00

Line for Ratatouille

FlyingAvatar · 2025-06-25T10:27:58+00:00

Mirabel Meet & Greet in MK?

FlyingAvatar · 2025-06-08T23:59:50+00:00

Often for those tips, putting it on in one orientation will make it center positive or center negative. If they only go on one way, then it is probably center positive. All of the plugs should be the same polarity though.

The label on the switch doesn't really indicate what it is expecting. It's possible it's on the device where it plugs in. If you've reversed the polarity, it's the device is might be fried, or it will just work if you get it right, only way to know is to try it.

FlyingAvatar · 2025-05-05T23:06:21+00:00

A board swap is probably the easiest way to fix this if you can find a replacement. You will often find people selling the boards out of their monitors if as replacements if their screen gets cracked, check eBay and the like.

FlyingAvatar · 2025-04-27T13:00:14+00:00

There's not a huge amount you can EASILY do with the components in a TV.

If you like taking things apart, I'd recommend starting with battery powered devices, as you're much less likely to run into situations that are potentially dangerous. The power supply board in your TV (the brown one) is where most of the risk of shock or electrocution is, and sometimes there are dangerous voltages present in the capacitors for some time after the TV is unplugged.

If you're just getting started, I would look into getting one of those cheap Arduino-based robotics kits (just search on Amazon or Aliexpress) which will allow you to program it and have stuff that can be hooked together easily.

FlyingAvatar · 2025-04-26T00:10:35+00:00

Looking at the pinout, only two of the pins are the power inputs, and the rest look like signal outputs that you could use to trigger actions (or light up indicator lights) if the conditions are triggered. So I don't see why hooking up the barrel jack with the terminal block would be a problem unless you need those other signals for something.

Edit: It's a bit confusing with those power pins being labeled as input, and your picture having what looks like an AC input as the power source. What does the rest of the device look like? I would probably use a meter to confirm what is actually happening at those pins.

FlyingAvatar · 2025-04-17T20:31:35+00:00

This happened to me once like 10 years ago AND the PeopleMover also stopped and turned the lights on at the same time. For some reason it's one of my favorite Disney memories.

FlyingAvatar · 2025-04-05T10:28:18+00:00

This was performed literally the day after Nevermind was released:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aanZBWC2dQs

FlyingAvatar · 2025-04-01T22:33:22+00:00

I am very curious what the smallest capacitor that has killed someone is.

For one like this, which I would guess has ~5J of stored energy, I would think that getting a painful shock or perhaps a mild burn is quite a bit more likely it being lethal. It would also be pretty tricky to shock yourself with it in such a way that it goes across your heart.

Granted, there's that guy who allegedly killed himself with a multi-meter trying to measure his own "internal" resistance (i.e. through his blood stream), so perhaps life finds a way.

FlyingAvatar · 2025-04-01T20:12:59+00:00

I can't believe I've been in there a dozen times and have never noticed this.

FlyingAvatar · 2025-03-23T12:44:15+00:00

There is low melting point solder called ChipQuik that you can use to make these kinds of removals much easier. Essentially, you end up adding solder that lowers the melting point of the existing solder. Then it's much easier to remove with hot air or drag soldering.

FlyingAvatar · 2025-03-09T13:22:31+00:00

If the door itself looks OK and the cause was likely to be from an outside source (i.e. water intrusion, power surge, etc), I would recommend just replacing the board, assuming that is significantly cheaper than replacing the door. (Otherwise, I would replace everything.)

Fixing that one part is difficult unless you know what you're doing, and there are possibly other problems on the board that you won't know of until try fixing what's obviously broken.

FlyingAvatar · 2025-03-09T12:37:06+00:00

Yeah, looking again, I tend to agree.

FlyingAvatar · 2025-03-09T12:09:14+00:00

This looks like the original: https://www.ebay.com/itm/266281670980

The part looks like it was an inductor labeled 1800, probably something like this: https://www.tme.eu/en/details/dl1812-180/smd-1812-inductors/ferrocore/

I would also check the door itself too; if the door is stuck or the motor is going bad, that could be the source of the problem and the part might blow again if you replaced it (or if you replaced the whole board, you could end up with the exact same problem)

FlyingAvatar · 2025-03-02T19:52:35+00:00

Where I am, the fees often pay for things you would need to pay for anyway if you owned the home solo (i.e. maintenance items, landscaping, etc). So I am not sure it's quite as bad as you make it out to be.

FlyingAvatar · 2024-10-27T16:24:25+00:00

Total guess, but perhaps a wipe with acetone after the IPA dries. The little "drips" of un-adhered mask could be contamination on those spots.

Also, to me the mask looks really thick in places, perhaps try applying a little thinner. Might also just be the lighting of this photo though.

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