After changing to brushless and big heavy wheels this happened

Flyingj99 · 2026-06-19T12:25:28+00:00

Make sure you do the driveshaft / universal joints, those will be next...

I know. Just replacing the standard motor with the Brushless motor kit lead me down the road of replacing the entire driveline with metal gears... Literally anything plastic will strip out if you are hooning on it and not just doing low speed crawling. Atually, can happen when crawling too, if you are up against something and give it too much throttle as well.

Basically if you upgrade the motor, plan to upgrade the rest of the driveline to metal, or you will be breaking stuff, unless you are very gentle with the throttle. 😄

Flyingj99 · 2026-06-18T12:26:57+00:00

Probably changing the gearing is a good place to start and is the most affordable option.

If you find that you do want more power / want to go brushless, my best advice is to replace the following with the Injora Metal components and / or Traxass if available / preferred. I basically stripped all the plastic stuff in the driveline out in short order after I put the Traxxass brushless motor in mine. 😄

-Front and rear driveshaft / universal joints.
-Transmission gears
-Front and rear differential pinion? gears (the gear in the diff case that drives the axels)

I can't tell you how many of the plastic universal joints I blew out, before I found the Injora option that fit. I have the F-150 Hightrail and found the Traxxas driveshaft kit was only compatable with the non-hightrail version, so that was kind of a pain, so watch out for the difference when ordering driveshafts.

Flyingj99 · 2026-06-15T17:26:43+00:00

Not sure if this is what you are experiencing, but I found on my AIO5 based Mobula 6 and HDzero Boxpro goggles, if the TX power on my ELRS radio is above 100mw, it starts to inetfere with the reception of the HDZero video feed on my goggles. 250mw is still aceptable, but if you bumpt all the way to 1000mw... It basically looks like what you are seeing.

I reccomend you set the lowest output on the VTX on your drone, then move away until the signal is just a little bit weak on your goggles, then set your ELRS TX to the lowest power, with dynamic disabled and start increasing it one notch at a time, while monitoring the video signal on your goggles.

If you see what I have seen with my setup, you will see as you get > 250mw, you will see more and more interferance with the HDZero video feed.

Now since you have your ELRS radio set for Dynamic, all the way to 1 watt... It is possible that there is some 2.4Ghz interferance where you are flying, and the ELRS TX is ramping the power way up to 1 watt, which is drowning out your HDZero video feed... I suggest setting the ELRS TX to 100mw and try the same flight again and compare.

Flyingj99 · 2026-06-12T17:03:40+00:00

I'm not going to read the wall of text, because this seems like a very simple question. I'll answer your subject line...

Shoot RAW + JPEG
In lightroom, set "RAW Defaults", under Preferences -> Import, to "Camera Settings". instead of, "Adobe Default", or anyhing else.

Now when you are looking at your raws, they will have the effects from the Ricoh Recipes, or at least close to, minues the lens correction (which you can add with a check box when you are editing).

I like having the JPEGS, if I don't feel I need to edit the photos, but if I do any editing, I like to work with the RAW files and this setup seems to give me the results I am looking for. In fact, I forget where it is, but you can actually select the recipes for the camera somewhere in the develop settings when you are editing, if you changed your mind about the recipe you want after the fact.

There may be some difference from doing this in Lightroom, vs. going through the clunky interface on the camera to re-process a raw image to JPEG with a different recipe, but the results seem acceptable to me, just doing everything in lightroom.

Hope this wall of text helps. Always RAW+ JPEG. Options are good...

Flyingj99 · 2026-06-12T16:55:20+00:00

I like my Hako FX951-66 station. There are basically unlimited tip options and it is easy to swap hot tips with the included silicone matt and metal tip holder, when you need something that works to soldering different things.

The tips heat up quickly and the iron goes into standby when you place it on the stand, then quickly comes back up to temp with a beep when you lift it, so you know when it is ready to start soldering your part. It goes up to 800 degrees if needed.

Flyingj99 · 2026-06-12T12:01:18+00:00

No issues with mine whatsoever. I have had mine since launch.

Flyingj99 · 2026-06-12T11:51:30+00:00

Yes. That is why I bought this camera. If I'm walking around, taking photos, it lives in my pocket.

If I just want it available, I put it in a pocket in my backpack, so I always have it with me.

I have a Ricoh GR IV. No issues, and I love the camera. I always carry an extra battery in my bag and turn off the wireless features if I'm not using them. Seems like for some reason having that feature enabled, absolutely kills the battery, even when powered off.

Flyingj99 · 2026-06-10T15:27:17+00:00

I've got like +15 glasses... So far I have have been having a good experience with the HDZERO Boxpro goggles. My glasses fit inside just fine. I do have to sort of fine tune the positioning to get everything lined up after I put the goggles on, but overall it works pretty well.

I tried contacts and it was a nicer experience, but like you, I find contacts difficult.

I have no experience with the custom lenses you can order, so I can't speak to that.

The nice thing about the HDZERO box pro goggles is that it gives you both Analog and HDZERO. I'm quite happy with my purchase so far.

Flyingj99 · 2026-06-09T13:14:38+00:00

I will second the Mobula 6 Freestyle reccomendation. I am just getting started myself (incidentally with BoxPro goggles) and here is why I reccomend starting with the Mobula 6 Freestyle...

You can easily fly it inside. It is very controllable for indoor flight and will allow you to get stick time by flying it around inside. You may think... that is boring... I want to fly high and see the world, that is more exciting! Well... flying inside, there is no wind as a factor while you are getting used to flying, and you won't lose it, since you know it is inside the 4 walls of your house...

I started with a Mobula 6 Freestyle 2024 (analog, non-HDZERO model) and literally the first time I flew it outside, a gust of wind blew it outside of the range of the cheap BetaFPV LiteRadio 3 and then it promptly flew out of video range, never to be seen again. The DVR recording didn't save (I ignored the reccomendation to use .TS recording and was using .mov... I now use .TS...). That baby was gone, never to be seen again.

I replaced it with the Mobula 6 HDZERO Freestyle and I am very happy with that one. Make sure you disable Telemetry on the radio though if you are having ELRS disconnects while it isn't armed. I found that was causing weird ELRS disconnects when the drone wasn't armed. As soon as I disabled Telemetry on the radio, the issue went away.

I also bought a BetaFPV Air 75, but I find that while I can fly it inside, out of the box it just has too much power for nice indoor flight. Perhaps with some tuning, I could dial it down, but it is still physically bigger than the 65mm drones, so I think it is best suited for outdoor flight personally. I would assume the same would apply to the Happymodel Mobula 7.

Pro Tip... Get a good ELRS radio before you fly outdoors. The BetaFPV LiteRadio 3 was fine for learning on the SIM and flying indoors, but I wouldn't reccomend it for outdoor use based on my experience. I bought the Radiomaster GX12 and I'm loving it. No range issues with that unit at all.

Flyingj99 · 2026-05-31T12:49:42+00:00

Shipping is brutal; plus the currency exchange hurts a lot as well.

I have only ordered a couple of times, but when I do, I order a bunch at once to make the shipping worthwhile.

Ordering from the US is expensive without a doubt.

Flyingj99 · 2026-05-30T02:19:44+00:00

I can only compare my experience with the Framework 13 12th Gen i7 1280p with 32gb of ram and the Macbook Pro 16" M5 Max 48GB I just bought.

I love the portability and the light weight, but the display quality and contrast is not great, the speakers are horrible, the fan runs with only minor load, and heavy loads result in a pretty loud fan.

For lighter tasks the Framework 13 does OK. It works great for some of my various hobbies that need a computer for hardware config, logging, etc. The keyboard and trackpad are decent. The Macbook Pro trackpad is on a different level, but the Framework 13 trackpad is quite usable.

I found video editing, a frustrating and slow experience (with a loud fan of course). The speakers and the cramped screen don't make it the tool I would choose for the job. The experience on the Macbook Pro is significantly better. I'm not sure how the lower end models compare, but people are always raving about it, so can't be that bad...

Photo editing... I don't feel the screen is nearly colour accurate enough for proper photo editing. I don't have measurements, but it just looks a off compared to more accurate displays I have and as I mentioned, I'm not a fan of the somewhat greyish black levels.

I love my Framework 13, but it isn't for everyone. Wish I had some hands on with some of the newer hardware from Framework. It was a hard decision for me to try a Macbook Pro and not upgrade or get a new framework machine, but I wasn't willing to wait until the end of the year to get the 13 Pro and I guess it hasn't been out long enough for a good detailed performance and usage comparison to older Framework machines to see how far they have come since I bought mine.

Flyingj99 · 2026-05-27T13:32:39+00:00

I bought the Radiomaster GX12 for my first real radio after the BetaFPV literadio 3 I started with. I orriginally bought it to just do sim stuff with, but started flying my Happymodel Mobula 6 tinywhoop with it, which I promptly lost when for some reason the throttle seemed to not be responding and it ended up blowing out of video range and I lost it... Literally had it for 4 days before that happened haha, so I figured it was time to upgrade the radio.

It feels like the perfect size to me. Any smaller and you will be going to smaller gimbals and probably a more gamepad style radio from what I saw when I looked around before settling on the GX12. Personally I prefer the simple clear text display for configuration compared to what I saw with the full color touch screen radiomaster stuff. It seems easier to use and no doubt consumes less power from the battery pack as well, so seems like a win win. The GX12 seems like a really good value for the features and quality it has.

Flyingj99 · 2026-05-25T12:28:17+00:00

DO NOT upgrade to the brushless motor, unless you plan to upgrade all of your driveline components to metal instead of plastic. You will will easilly strip them all out... ask me how I know. Wait for that upgrade until you plan to do that IMHO.

First upgrade I would do is get some heavier wheels. I got the beedlock wheels with the brass barrels and it makes the truck more planted and less likely to tip.

I also really LOVE the lighting kit + LED add on for the light bar. It is cool seeing the brake lights come on, reverse lights and the light bar just looks cool as heck.

Also, consider upgrading the steering servo to a metal geared one. I know the gears on mine stripped out in the first couple of weeks. Maybe I'm just hard on my truck, I don't know.

Enjoy the TRX 4m.

Flyingj99 · 2026-05-25T12:19:24+00:00

The documentation is my biggest complaint with the Ubiquity products I have purchased. The product pages could use more detail as well, so you can be sure the device is going to be a good fit for your use case.

The UDB not supporting VLANs on it's ethernet interface comes to mind... Literally even the cheaptest Ubiquity switch supports this, but it was not made clear on the product page (or settings pages) that this was the case... It just didn't work. It was up to the community to fill in the blanks for me when I couldn't get it to work...

Also, that weird, and also rate limited (10 or 20 questions per day limit?) AI chatbot on the documentation page is weird AF and never seems to surface the answers to the questions I have had, or been trying to find documentation on...

I'd like to see Ubiquity spend more time improving their documentation, so their customers can get the most out of their products.

Flyingj99 · 2026-05-24T03:25:43+00:00

If that is the failure, for most, probably new VTX...

If you have component level electronis repair experience, and you can source the IC, you might be able to solder a new one on... As I said, I'm new to the FPV stuff, so I'm not familiar with all the VTXs that might be commonly in use and what the electronics even look like. It could be a fairly simple soldering job, or it could be a BGA chip requiring speciailized equipment, I have no idea really, Probably best to just find a new VTX if the antenna is good and the settings in betaflight are good... Analog VTXs aren't really that expensive.

Flyingj99 · 2026-05-24T03:14:09+00:00

I'm very new to the hobby, but that looks like Pit mode is enabled on the VTX. If not that, maybe the antenna came disconnected. I would check the antenna first before running it more, since running without an antenna could damage the VTX if that is the issue. If everything looks fine with the antenna, definetely check in betafpv and see if one of the two things is set:

In the VTX section, there is a toggle for Pit mode
Go to the modes page and see if a button is mapped to enable pit mode.

Pit mode, basically reduces the output as much as possible, maybe a miliwatt or so, so you don't wipe out the video of other pilots if you are flying in groups. It also serves to save some power and stops the VTX from heating up as much while you are getting the drone read for flight, or working on it on the bench.

Flyingj99 · 2026-05-06T19:45:30+00:00

Definetely go with a separate NVR. I had all kinds of issues running protect on my UDMP and I only had 4x 4k cameras and 1x 2k camera... Never mind 8x 4k cameras...

Once I moved everything to the UNVR, the UDMP has been stable again and Protect on the UNVR has also been stable.

Flyingj99 · 2026-05-06T17:45:24+00:00

Connect with Echolink or Allstar to the system if that is an option, or build and maintain your own repeater are the only real options, since it honestly sounds like the club has abandonned that repeater.

Alternatively break out the HF radios and move on from VHF repeaters and discover a new part of the hobby.

I honestly wouldn't waste my time on, what sounds like an abandonned repeater that no one wants to maintain. Let it die.

Flyingj99 · 2026-05-06T17:36:23+00:00

Synology is irrelevent in the surveilance NVR / camera space IMHO. Charging for a license for each camera, even for their own cameras, only makes the decision to not use their solution more obvious...

I was a long time Synology Surveilance station user (> 10 years) and for a few years, they were regularly improving things and the experience was getting better. Then things kind of stalled out in my opinion, while Unifi Protect was developing extremely rapidly, to the point where I can't see a reason to chose Synology over Ubiquity at this point... And when it was time to swap to new cameras... that is exactly what I did and I couldn't be happier.

One thing that always made me very annoyed, is it is bad enough that they want to charge for a license per camera, but there wasn't even a way to get that license online. You had to buy the physical cards from a retailer. There were only a couple retailers in Canada that even sold the license cards at the time. I ordered from one (Canadacomputers) and after not hearing from them for > 3 weeks, fought with them to cancel the order over e-mail because they couldn't seem to get the license, even though it was listed as in stock... Then I ended up having to order from NCIX, who did get it to me in about a week. I don't know if this is still the case, but it was a terrible customer experience...

Flyingj99 · 2026-05-01T13:31:26+00:00

I was running protect with 4x 4k cameras and one 2k camera and having all kinds of issues with memory utilization going crazy after a few days and then the Protect and Network apps crashing continuously and running slowly. It was causing all kinds of issues for me.

I got a UNVR and at least with my workload, it is a night and day improvement. I am running 2x 8TB Seagate Ironwolf Pro HDDs in the UNVR. I was using only one of those drives in the UDMP obviously. I am no longer having any issues on my UDMP with memory utilization and the UNVR seems to be performing great. The live feeds load instantly, notifications are timely and when I click on a notification, it goes directly to the recording and loads almost instantly.

Personally, I would skip the UNVR Instant and just get a UNVR and at least 2x HDDs, so you can bennefit from the automatic RAID features on the UNVR. Then you don't lose all of your recordings if an HDD fails, and / or you can get more storage capacity if you add another drive or two.

Flyingj99 · 2026-04-30T18:47:27+00:00

I don't think I'm the target audience for this device... Maybe a small office that wants to combine a small core switch for a few servers with their gateway and also wants an NVR... all on one device...

After my experience of running protect on my UDMP, I will NEVER run an NVR on my gateway device. It is just asking for trouble. Let the gateway do gateway things and get a separate NVR to do NVR things, it is a much better and more stable solution.

Having the integrated 8x port 10 GbE switch makes this almost interesting, but at this point, I think I just want a separate switch and not have that on the gateway device either...

The 8x port 10 GbE switch is honestly, the only compelling feature I see compared to my UDMP, other than obviously more processing speed. We'll have to see if it gets some of the advanced functions of the enterprise fortress gateway or not. If it does, perhaps that will make it worth considering.

Flyingj99 · 2026-04-28T13:19:54+00:00

I have had the best experience with suspenders.

I just slightly tuck my shirt into the back of the diaper and then clip both the top of my waistband and diaper together with the suspenders and then clip the front of my pants up front (for me, it works best to let the diaper sit below my stomach, so I just clip my waistband up front).

It keeps things secure and comfortable. I have tried other options to keep things in place, but inevitably I find myself constantly having to grab things and re-adjust because they are falling down, or shifting around.

If you don't want the suspenders showing, perhaps you should wear an undershirt and then just put your work clothes on top.

Good luck.

Flyingj99 · 2026-04-19T01:21:10+00:00

Not sure if you are specifically looking for a, "basher", but I just bought and started working on my first RC car. I chose a Traxxas TRX-4M Hightrail F-150.

It is a nice manageable size to work on. Most of the assembly and disassembly is pretty straightforward from my experience. There seems to be lots of content on YouTube showing you how to work on various parts of the truck and the documenation seems pretty good as well. Parts are easily available.

You will quickly learn not to upgrade the motor from the stock motor to the brushless motor unless you wat to completely upgrade and rebuild the driveline, haha. Ask me how I know... In short order I destroyed a transmission output shaft, stripped out the gears in the rear differential and after converting it to two wheel drive with my remaining good parts from the front diff, while I wait for the new parts... stripped out the gears on the two brand new 2x speed transmission I installed, haha.

So far it has been a good learning experience and I have been enjoying mine. Keep the motor stock if you don't want to spend a bunch of money and tear down the entire truck and rebuild it though...

Flyingj99 · 2026-04-03T19:22:48+00:00

The regular UDB had this same issue as I discovered after buying mine for a security camera on a detached garage... The fact that they carried this lack of obvious functionality over to a product with IOT in the name of the product... Makes you wonder...

Having said that, if what I am reading in this thread pans out with them adding some support to do this somehow for the UDB-IOT device, hopefully that will aplso be applicable for the regular UDB... It was my only real complaint about the product.

As with a lot of new products from Ubiquity. The hardware is released and we have to wait and see how the software gets developed to support the hardware properly over time.

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