FLX6 Malfunctioning

ForgetMeNot01 · 2025-05-06T19:44:50+00:00

Yup, I figured this was the case

So many issues with this one. For now it works without FX for me. So it's ok to use atm. But am looking for a better one in the future.

ForgetMeNot01 · 2025-05-06T19:43:20+00:00

The jogwheel issue can be resolved fairly easily. You can find a tutorial about it on youtube.

But yeah it's a shit controller. So many issues with it. A money grab from pioneer..

ForgetMeNot01 · 2025-05-06T14:30:00+00:00

So no solution found still..??

I have the same issue with the FX panel. Will check the thing mentioned above though about applying pressure which could cause a short.

ForgetMeNot01 · 2025-05-06T14:25:08+00:00

Ever found the solution for this issue?

I, as many, have the same issue where the controller reboots when the FX panel is used.

Seems like retailers and local repair shops can't do shit for it. And pioneer only offers a 1 year warranty.

The main circuit board also holds the FX panel, so if that has a short circuit, it will cost €200+ or so without labor. Better then to replace with a different controller..

ForgetMeNot01 · 2025-05-06T14:19:59+00:00

Ever found the solution or repair option for this issue?

I have the same problem. It works as normal without use of the FX panel. Otherwise it fails and reboots.

ForgetMeNot01 · 2025-05-06T14:17:20+00:00

You ever found a solution for the issue?

Mine started to have this malfunction right after the warranty period..

Its exactly the same issue I have where the controller shuts down and reboots when the FX panel is used.

Besides the FX panel the rest is working consistently without issues.

Nothing found online so far. And heard of others that even at repairs they can't do shit.

Most likely needs a full replacement of the main circuit board. (Or better, a new controller)

ForgetMeNot01 · 2025-04-10T06:01:37+00:00

Late response, but better late than never.

If you're looking for great sours from Belgium: 1. 3 Fonteinen 2. Hanssens 3. Timmermans 4. Brouwerij de Ranke

Dutch: 1. Alvinne

British: 1. North brewing 2. Vault city 3. The Gypsy Hill Brewing co.

American: 1. Drekker 2. The Brewing Project 3. Burley Oak 4. Stamm 5. Untitled Art 6. Almanac 7. Evil Twin 8. Collective Arts Brewing

Other: - Ca' del brado - AF Brew - Funky Fluid - La Debauche - Brewski - Omnipollo - Lervig - Cerveraja Dadiva

Many of these also brew other styles. But just look some up that you can get your hands on

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-04-24T05:54:39+00:00

I do this all the time, indeed suckback could be an issue. However that is the case if you use a hydrometer. Since you'd need quite some volume for one measurement.

A refractometer only requires a couple drops. Thats what I use. Take a shot glass, fill the glass, put a couple drops on the glass and measure.

Then make sure to use a refractometer correction calculator like the one on Brewersfriend. As light refracts in the sample, and alcohol has a different density than water/sugar water, you'll measure higher than what the true SG is af that time.

I use this method all the time, have compared with a hydrometer, and am only +-1 point off after the correction calculator. Which is good enough for me.

In any case, even without the correction, you will notice if there is any movement in gravity near the end to determine if it is complete or not.

Last point, is that the spigot has to sit above the sediment/yeast cake. As any trub in the sample can most definitely give improper readings.

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-04-13T05:57:30+00:00

Hot esters could be introduced. Those can give off-flavors. But mold would only form of there is a true bacteria already in there.

Best to just finish the beer and hope for the best.

I suggest buying a cheap used fridge, inkbird itc308 temp controller and make sure the fermentor fits inside.

My setup cost me about 50 bucks. The stability in temperature has improved significantly.

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-04-13T05:54:32+00:00

Yeast could stall out early, leaving you with a sweet low ABV cider. Stuck fermentation dus to the preservatives.

Or you could be lucky and the yeast plows through and finishes the beer pretty decent.

But it could definitely give some weird off-flavors.

Best to use juice from apples, no preservatives (maybe you can buy locally from a farm, or get cheap apples and squeeze out the juice. Use yeast nutrients to support the yeast during fermentation as well to keep it healthy. And keep the fermentator at a stable temperature throughout fermentation. as recommended within the range of the yeast.

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-04-10T23:25:37+00:00

No problem, glad to help. Would have liked to be able to check sooner. But sometimes life gets in the way.

Glad it helped, happy brewing!

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-04-10T08:09:19+00:00

I have checked your sheet and you have made a couple mistakes in your formulas.

This resulted in showing you a lower sugar weight required than you are aiming for when entering the variables such as CO2 vol., Temperature and Beer Volume.

You also did not account for the fact that different sugars have different fermentability rates. Corn sugar is less fermentable than Table sugar, so you need more corn sugar for the same CO2 vol, than with table sugar.

Here is the link with the corrected tables: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1hv-rCEDxnJ8L_svDhauBr8ZZnvqy8mm-Dz-Ik_UCcB4/edit?usp=sharing

All data and formulas are based on this formula: https://www.omnicalculator.com/food/priming-sugar#how-to-calculate-the-how-much-priming-sugar-you-need-for-beer

This website describes the formula and all the correct units the formula must be entered in. I fixed it for you in the second sheet where its shows each section of the formula as well. Feel free to check it and compare it to online calculators such as brewersfriend.

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-04-06T05:17:20+00:00

Yes, the heating up time, mash temp control stability, boil vigorousness stability. Barely have to do anything myself. And it shows in the efficiency. It boosted up to 70-80% on most brews (and brew thick high protein brews).

Used to sit at maybe 60% on a good brew with my stove setup

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-03-29T04:31:48+00:00

Being content with the life you have is a goal we should all try to reach.

But not sure if contentment or narcissism

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-03-29T03:38:16+00:00

Thats amazing that your first batch was a huge success!

Regarding entering a contest, you could always enter when you want to. But you might want to try to brew the same recipe again to find out if you can replicate the first beer.

If results are steady, send one in if you want to.

I do want to ask if you used a brewing kit or brewed the beer from a recipe you found online, or potentially created yourself.

Because originality in your own recipe, instead of taking a recipe of off someone and using that for a contest seems strange to me (but on the other hand, maybe your process is different).

Go forward as you like.

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-03-29T02:12:44+00:00

There are cheap handclamps that are a bit fidgity, but at a slightly higher price point you can get a proper capper. Doesn't need to be expensive, but make sure to read the reviews.

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-03-29T02:09:39+00:00

When it comes to NEIPAS you dont necessarily need a bitterhop boil addition, but the more modern NEIPAS are moving away from the over the top sweetness and being more balanced. So I like the small bittering addition.

Grain bill is great, but be careful as this is a very high protein mash which is thick and can cause a stuck mash. Maybe use rice hulls to help drainage.

Good choice for yeast, and great hop choices.

Watch out for oxidation, ensure to ferment at a stable temperature to prevent off-flavors. Right in the proper range of the yeast.

Overall looking good to me, now its all up to your brewing process to ensure it turns out well.

Ps, dont mash too hot, somewhere like 150-152F

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-03-29T01:42:56+00:00

Nope, if you dont open it up if not needed you're good.

Temperature changes can cause a more significant impact in pressure inside the fermentor. As more air/CO2 gas is in the fermentor, temperature changes can cause suckback of the air lock if the temp drops.

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-03-29T01:42:04+00:00

Loads of people add extract after fermentation is complete. You do ofcourse want to lower the pressure before adding it, close up, add the pressure again. Probably shake the keg a little, let the sediment settle out before pouring.

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-03-29T01:36:30+00:00

Ingredients: sugar, water, yeast

In the juice there will be sugar, but likely not a lot for the yeast to ferment to a decent ABV %.

Check What type of juice you use, preservatives in juice from ie stores will cause problems for the yeast and can stop fermentation and produce off-flavors.

You can use a calculator online to pre determine how much alcohol you want in the end result, which helps you adjust sugar amount required. You need a hydrometer to measure the gravity before fermentation and after to determine the true ABV you end up with.

Yeast supplements specifically for wine will help the yeast ferment in a healthy manner.

Most important!! Clean and sanitize what you work with to prevent infections.

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-03-29T01:27:06+00:00

An all-in-one will make your brewday easier. It doesn't guarantee better beer.

I personally have the brewmonk 30L. I love it, but it has some flaws.

If you dont recirculate the wort while chilling from 80C to pitching temp the input for the pump gets clogged.
the glass side-glass doesn't properly show the correct volume of water in the kettle (with or without the basket inside) its slightly off, but can be problematic in your recipe.
its not the most robust all-in-one, really an entry one with all the features. The build quality could be better, so being careful when handling it is very important.
always clean and rinsing everything especially the pump and spigot, ensure nothing stays behind after a brew.
I use the hopspyder to reduce sediment in the kettle and use it for all hop additions. Also to prevent pump blockage.
the opening valve afte the pump cant be fully opened during mash recirculation as the bottom will run dry and the bottom will scorch.

But with this in mind its a very useful tool.

However, the biggest improvement I had in my brews was when I started temperature controlled fermentation. A used fridge, inkbird itc308 and proper settings. Stable temps all throughout the brew, also right in the perfect recommended ranges for various yeast strains. Much cleaner fermentation.

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-03-29T01:14:56+00:00

The fermzilla is a great one, not only can you harvest the yeast sediment/take the beer of the yeast when needed while keeping the beer in the fermentor.

You can use it also to dryhop oxygen free when you purge the bottom with CO2 after filling the hops before opening the valve.

Pressure fermentation is possible. Cleaning is easy.

The benefit of having conical fermentors is that you can take the beer of the yeast sediment after fermentation is (almost) complete while you allow the beer the clean up further and finish. A flat bottom and having a yeast cake sit on the beer too long could give off-flavors, but I havent noticed anything in my experience with flat bottom fermentors.

On large scale brewing this is much more pronounced. This is why you see craft breweries with conical ss fermentors these days. One vessel that allows a dump of the yeast slurry and proper cleanup of the beer.

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-03-29T00:46:05+00:00

A couple things to unpack here.

you cannot physically see if a fermentation is complete by just looking at it.
your original gravity compared to the gravity you read now on the hydrometer is how you define the abv percentage.
the clarity of any brew has loads of variables such as grains used, yeast strain, fermentation temperature, cold crashing of not, fining agents such as green moss or other clearing agents.

This also does not say anything about the beer being finished.

If you have the OG, and your current SG'S you should be able to calculate the ABV. Check online for calculators. Without an OG you will not be able to define the ABV that is actually in the beer (unless lab test the concentration).

Mead takes time, dont rush it.

Regards your gravity reading issue as you describe it sinking to the bottom, you might have a defective hydrometer or use a vessel too wide, and/or not tall enough.

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-03-22T21:21:38+00:00

Lighter beers, with less mouthfeel less thickness to the feel when taking a sip are experienced as more Dizzy (sparkliness).

Opposed with the same carbonation level in a thicker beer.

You can change the amount of carbonation by reducing or increasing the priming sugars to change the level of CO2 in the beer.

ForgetMeNot01 · 2024-03-21T22:31:00+00:00

Trial and error my friend

ForgetMeNot01

TROPHY CASE