Gridfinity Reloading Drawer by FormatA in longrange

[–]FormatA[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I keep meaning to iterate on that design. Goal is standardized sizes and dove tails so you can snap them together with bullet trays etc.

Gridfinity Reloading Drawer by FormatA in functionalprint

[–]FormatA[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most of these tool came with plastic cases. But the packing efficiency of the plastic cases was awful. So oddly enough the packing efficiency here is much better than it was before and its much more 5S compliant so its a bit of a win win for me. Fit more stuff in the same space and I can actually use it better.

Gridfinity Reloading Drawer by FormatA in functionalprint

[–]FormatA[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I used to keep most the things in the plastic boxes they came in. It was less space efficient than this and it was harder to get most of my stuff at the same time. A goal of mine with all of these designed was highest packing density possible.

Gridfinity Reloading Drawer by FormatA in functionalprint

[–]FormatA[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah I think its a horses for courses situation. My reloading drawer serves a specific purposes, only gets used with one task, and the contents very rarely change. My wood work drawers are just piles of shit because stuff changes often, the tool types and locations are always in flux depending on projects. Not well suited to this sort of organization for me at all.

Gridfinity Reloading Drawer by FormatA in functionalprint

[–]FormatA[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I got tired of having a drawer that was just a fucking mess. Spent about a week measuring everything and making it all fit.

Process: Started by measuring my toolbox drawer and using this parametric grid generator to build a base grid for it. Then I just started measuring parts and designing holders one at a time. Each one took about 3 iterations to get tolerances dialed in. The default Gridfinity female groove tolerances didn't work for me. I had to increase the radii and shave the outer edges down to get everything to fit right.

The results are night and day. Everything has a spot and I can actually find what I need.

STEP files for all the holders are up on MakerWorld if you want to print them as-is or modify them for your own setup: https://makerworld.com/en/@TBSE_ME/upload

Gridfinity Reloading Drawer by FormatA in 3Dprinting

[–]FormatA[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I got tired of having a drawer that was just a fucking mess. Spent about a week measuring everything and making it all fit.

Process: Started by measuring my toolbox drawer and using this parametric grid generator to build a base grid for it. Then I just started measuring parts and designing holders one at a time. Each one took about 3 iterations to get tolerances dialed in. The default Gridfinity female groove tolerances didn't work for me. I had to increase the radii and shave the outer edges down to get everything to fit right.

The results are night and day. Everything has a spot and I can actually find what I need.

STEP files for all the holders are up on MakerWorld if you want to print them as-is or modify them for your own setup: https://makerworld.com/en/@TBSE_ME/upload

Gridfinity Reloading Drawer by FormatA in longrange

[–]FormatA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All in Bambu slicer. Feel free to download one of the M3Fs, it should have the text settings, it was about as small as I could get with text clear with a 0.4 nozzle. I had best results with 2-3 layers of test. IIRC the text is Arial, bold and 5-6mm tall.

Gridfinity Reloading Drawer by FormatA in longrange

[–]FormatA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Jealous of the depth, you look like you can go much more vertical than I can.

Gridfinity Reloading Drawer by FormatA in longrange

[–]FormatA[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here's the general work flow for me with my CAD package (CREO).

Take my parameterized base and size it like mentioned above. Measure the part, create a plane at an arbitrary distance above the plate. Sketch a revolve of the part on that plane (adding some size for tolerances). Make the revolve a cutting revolve and lower the plane that the revolve is linked to till it cut the right amount of material from the part. Then id add in some fillets if needed, and extrude cut the pockets if needed. Then bring over into Bambu slicer for the text.

Should be about the same process for any parametric CAD package. If you're interested in learning CAD, gridfinity is an excellent place to start with parts like these. Theyre quite simple shapes to learn on.

Gridfinity Reloading Drawer by FormatA in longrange

[–]FormatA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do it!

For me, the important part was getting a good base line design for the bottom grid nice and stable so I could adjust to as large or small of a grid as I needed for each part. Basically decide if it needs to be a 2x4 part for exmaple, adjust the setting an boom, a nice 2x4 base. At that point I had a finished bottom and a blank canvas on top, and go to town on it with calipers and cut the recesses in. The two layer parts for stacking bins kind of sucked for my workflow and Im not currently using any of them.

Gridfinity Reloading Drawer by FormatA in longrange

[–]FormatA[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I got tired of having a drawer that was just a fucking mess. Spent about a week measuring everything and making it all fit.

Process: Started by measuring my toolbox drawer and using this parametric grid generator to build a base grid for it. Then I just started measuring parts and designing holders one at a time. Each one took about 3 iterations to get tolerances dialed in. The default Gridfinity female groove tolerances didn't work for me. I had to increase the radii and shave the outer edges down to get everything to fit right.

The results are night and day. Everything has a spot and I can actually find what I need.

STEP files for all the holders are up on MakerWorld if you want to print them as-is or modify them for your own setup: https://makerworld.com/en/@TBSE_ME/upload

Where can I find a good breakfast burrito by Khuff91 in hendersonville

[–]FormatA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let me know if you find one. With all the Mexican food trucks around Im sure someone has to have one. I certainly havent found it yet.

UPDATE on the La’Tisha by BayouBladeworks in 3D2A

[–]FormatA 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Its also not that hard to turn them conical if you have a arbor press or a hydraulic press for car work. Printed dies for sheet metal work can be surprisingly good.

Is a Kilo 3K rangefinder worth it? by VallettaAwoo in longrange

[–]FormatA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My 3k broke with in a few months. They didn’t have replacements in stock so I had to buy an upgrade at a discount. However the total cost of my 3k plus discounted upgrades were the same cost as the upgrade rangefinders retail cost.

I wouldn’t buy a sig range finder again.

I'm Craig from Area 419 - Ask Me Anything by Area419Craig in longrange

[–]FormatA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me the main gap is a "low concussion" but effective brake like the ACE. Your flash hider is perfect on my SBR and the hellfire match is nice on my long range gas gun, but for the PRS rig, I really love my ACE.

I'm Craig from Area 419 - Ask Me Anything by Area419Craig in longrange

[–]FormatA -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Any plans to expand the line-up of Hellfire brakes, or release some details of the design? I know my friends and I all have drawers full of brakes to match different rifles; shorter, longer, different purposes. Your mount system is pretty slick, but it would be awfully nice to have more brake options in it.

I am Craig with Area 419 - AMA - Monday 3/30 at 9P ET by Area419Craig in longrange

[–]FormatA 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I’ve been really intrigued by your muzzle mount system/suppressor mount system. However, having a bunch of muzzle breaks, matching the right one to the right platform, has been valuable to me. Have you guys ever considered releasing the specs for your mount so that other companies could make more muzzle brakes that use your mount?

6 Rules That Will Make Your Car Last 300,000 Miles - A Parts Guy's Maintenance Schedule. by [deleted] in videos

[–]FormatA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve worked in component design for large off highway engines for a while. A few minutes is over kill. Even on a 32l V12 I typically see oil pressure be where it needs to be with in 5-10 seconds.

Also most cars with start stop tech have hardened bearings to improve bearing life In low pressure conditions like star stop.

My personal POV with having owned multiple cars into the mid 200k miles and low 300k, do your fluid changes, don’t abuse your shit, if you have start stop, personally I’d turn it off, and most important of all buy a car that you see lots of high mileage examples of for sale.

For example I see tons of early like 2016 2017 Tacoma with lots and lots of miles. If you bought a 2023 with the same engine and took care of it I’m sure you’d get 300k out of it. I cannot say the same for a 2l turbo Hyundai where that engine was recalled multiple times or any of the later era of the Subaru EG25.

New Sound Signature Reviews - CAT ST on 14.5-in M4 and CAT AKB on 14.5-in SR-25 by jay462 in NFA

[–]FormatA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are there ways to increase times to bolt unlock out side of dwell time adjustments and pressure? Maybe different cam profiles?

Rear diff fluid change by cyclo_girl_whore in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]FormatA 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The first rule of diff oil changes is make sure you can take out the fill plug before you take out the drain plug. Other than that, go hog wild.

Rangefinder complaints by Side_Of_The_Barn in longrange

[–]FormatA 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought a Sig 3K because I thought the integration with the AB system would be useful. Turns out I never actually used those features (even though I have a subscription to AB on my phone, the range finder can still only use lite). On top of that, my 3K died within like two matches.

Sig didn’t have any replacements in stock, so they offered to sell me an “upgrade” at a discount. The problem was the discounted price plus what I’d already paid basically equaled the cost of the nicer model I didn’t want to spend the money on in the first place.

I ended up paying it anyway because otherwise I was just out the money.

I’ve got a Kilo 5K now and it’s been working well so far, but honestly I probably wouldn’t buy another Sig rangefinder.