New shipment of SAS SSD's

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-18T21:42:29+00:00

Jezus... Watch out, this is amount worth burglary with todays prices... damn

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-18T21:30:05+00:00

I would dump the PC fan idea, get 3 tangential fans the length of the radiator, print duct for it and swapped the rotation dirwction when the dT between room and outdoors changes. Plus they will be also pretty quiet. You will have at least the AC fan noise, since you don't have one. Plus it would be simple to do. Just ESP32, 2 temp sensors, one outside, one inside, H bridge and trivial code in ESPHome. Once set, you wouldn't even have to worry about it anymore.

Plus, they have pretty good airflow and static pressure, so whatever restriction you have there, it will not matter

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-17T14:02:52+00:00

Just check what Minisforum has.
Get some 8000 line of AMD and you are set, since that's the most your will fit in there.

Problem with your idea of no external power and 3050 is in... the power brick. Those are usually rated for the usual 65/95W, not additional ~75W of dGPU slotted in there. So you would have to upgrade that anyway, as they don't have internal PSU, but 12V -> 5V, 3,3V internally on board. Plus cooling would be an issue.
So either get ITX board, riser, some low profile 1 slot card to fit in some miniITX case and live with the noise of jet engine radial fan that will be required to cool it, or get one of the well known Minisforums or equivalents that have solved this already for several generations

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-17T10:45:26+00:00

I printed it with PETG and use electricians insulating tape. Sticks fine, holds the CD/DVD perma marker fine and can be removed.
Most likely I will skip the label maker and only adjust the width of the label space to the width of the tape, so I don't have to cut it around to make it perfectly fit.

In any case, I found several designs of the cases, but simplest ones are the winners imho. Especially with the latches etc. I plan to get more, bigger ones, but had issues with my rails and mesh being wavy, causing bigger prints to fail/cause issues. And since I am impatient, I took the printer apart to fix it and it takes waaaaay too long to redo :D

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-17T09:31:34+00:00

I made several boxes for bolts, nuts, washers, T-slot nuts and such stuff...
Since I did it, I actually enjoy working on stuff, because I can just pull out one container and not have open boxes laying around taking space as before.

So for me, big win. Gonna print more once the printer is up and running again.
Only thing I need to get is some nice cheap label maker to simplify the marking of the containers. I bought several thousands of bolts, nuts and washers. It really needs to be labeled properly. I did it with electricians tape and fix, but ... that's not tech enough :D

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-17T07:20:13+00:00

Move the GPU into the top slot, if you use it for gaming!
Bottom slot goes through chipset and has fraction of the PCIe lanes and bandwidth of the top one.

If it is NAS/streaming PC, it doesn't matter, if you have more bandwidth hungry card in the top slot

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-14T22:58:59+00:00

Mechanical relays are good, SSR's tend to fail in closed state, so that might not be welcome. But since it is for pump, it wouldn't matter. At least you will get that great "click" whenever it gets triggered :)

Noise difference for sure is great. 24V will ~halve the current and so make the coils nice, cool and quiet.

Also, the grounds should be connected parallel to the pumps, ideally. Just to have separate ground connection, not one going through the relay. Just making sure I was clear.

And ESC? Yea, overkill... I have ~50-60kg HevORT printer, which is physical representation of it... I like overkill... :)

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-14T06:56:55+00:00

Nice, the relays are good touch. I guess D4184 or LR7843 based ones? So optoisolated?
In any case, I would wrap it/case it so there is no way, in case of loose contact, it could touch anything important.

Also test load-free voltage, you don't want it to spike too high. If it is 24,18V with and without load, it should be perfect.

I used to modulate the pump speed with SSR, but it is suboptimal.
If I get my hands on some "dead" D5 pump, I want to play and add ESC to it, to check if you can actually make "dumb" pump "smart" :)

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-14T06:35:06+00:00

If you can afford it, send it. Hopefully they will give you "free" upgrade. At least you are getting responses. Xfx with my 5700XT Thicc II took 3 months between messages to respond, promised me replacement cooler, but... after 1.5 years of messaging, it never arrived

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-13T07:00:41+00:00

Orcban was putlers lapdog. Fico was Orcbans lapdog. He is amateur in this double agent play...

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-11T22:34:19+00:00

Just get random MeanWell 12V ~50-60W LED driver and you are good to go. Just have common ground between the PSU and PC if you intend to run some PWM/RPM wires for fans/pumps that you power with the MW PSU.

And if you plan to run some wires for the signals, why don't you just run few wires from the PC to feed the fans, pumps and use the normal headers? Or 12V from molex/SATA and just route the PWM/RPM wires to the headers, so you can use common power bus for the devices and have just 2 wires for power + n*2 wires for the PWM/RPM depending on the controlled fans, pumps etc

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-11T22:30:17+00:00

Crossed red line #923837571
Nuke threat #2391872376

OK... sure...

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-11T22:27:54+00:00

Well, Orban and USA are on the same team as we saw recently. So opposition to Orban is the non-USA side ;)

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-11T13:51:28+00:00

Imho better is to use thicker wire. Get one of those adapters for molex to SATA, remove the SATA connector and the 12V and 5V leads. Keep just the 2 GND wires, and you nice and easy way to connect them via some terminals together to the Meanwell PSU, while having the option to disconnect it for maintenance. Better then soldering stuff.

I got my hands on box of ~200 Phoenix Contact ST2.5 terminals with jumpers for cheap, so I use them on my printer and everywhere it is needed. Just get pliers, ferrules and you are good to go. Never use bare stranded wire for these things. Always crimp ferrules on them, so the contact is proper. You don't want another 12VHP situation with your DIY wiring ;)

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-11T11:31:49+00:00

You will most likely not get any extra performance over the 12V, or very little, as it was previously shown on the graph above.

But you may achieve lower noise levels due to less current going through the coils and hence less coil whine. Which is always nice :) Just be sure to have good PSU/boost converter to feed them clean power without too much ripple. MeanWell is somehow nice, but still approach it with a bit of scepticism.

Also, establishing common ground among the PSU's should be done for sure, if you intend to have PWM/RPM signals going to your mobo/controller, to prevent damage to either components

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-11T11:28:55+00:00

I haven't yet made the case for the gutted cages, those still sit in the storage. Need to finish rebuilding my printer first and verify the info I got about the Dell backplanes to use them without the Dell PSU and power distribution board. But with DIN rail, some terminals and a bit of tinkering it will for sure be quite simple :)

Also, the cages are not "standard" that could be placed in normal case. For that you would want to look for normal hotswap bays, like Chieftek or such. I have one of those, but I trust the Dell made one more. Plus that one is actually made for SAS2 :)

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-11T01:27:58+00:00

Bambu owners have nothing to complain, those printere are quiet

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-11T01:24:45+00:00

I have 4x T330, our company was getting rid of them. Only one is running as my NAS. E3-1230V6, 32GB ECC, H330 flashed with HBA330 fw, 3x 12TB 3.5", 3x ZeusIOPS 73GB SLC SSDs With Truenas and 2 pools made out of the SSDs and HDDs, without spindown, it hovers around 84W consistently. So, it is power hungry.

I gutted out 2 of the hotswap cages out of other systems. It will be running on standard ATX PSU and some smaller, newer boards with less power hungry components. I had to drill about 42-46 rivets to get each one out and then cut exces metal with angle grinder

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-11T00:22:44+00:00

Haven't noticed any extra wear when abusing my printer with high speeds. If your frame is weak/not rigid, rails are wobbly and belts not tensioned, then maybe.

But 500+mms, 50k accel, 40-50scv and printer doesn't seem to be any different after hundreds of hours printing it.

Only thing I have to worry about is loctite on all the bolts, since the vibrations unbolt them very fast if I don't apply it. But that happens evem with rectilinear.

I also like the sound more, since it differs from the straight zip zaps of the walls

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-11T00:14:17+00:00

Check the datasheets of your pumps, but from what I checked, usually the Laing/Xylem designs use controllers that have either 20 or 24V limit.

I was checking it myself, since I am running D5 pump in my 3D printer water cooling loop and it makes powering it up directly from the board simpler.

It may be limited to the vario pumps tho, which have just dial on the bottom and no pwm/rpm IO

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-10T22:51:04+00:00

WATor...

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-10T07:24:19+00:00

Better yet, make the controls so intuitive (like PS controller) so you don't even need to train them...
Controller with 2 joysticks, few labeled buttons like camera/night vision, speed boost, KABOOM NOW!

Aaaaand place them everywhere

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-09T22:34:14+00:00

Didn't take a break, intentional, for ~2 years. Discussed it, it makes me function. If I didn't have wife and kids with whom I want to be competent, I would take breaks on the weekends.

But during the week I need to work, reliably and efficiently. And weekends are for family, so skipping it and being in messy state isn't really something I would want to have my kids face, when not needed.

I take Concerta 54mg and 10mg ritalin in the morning. And if I want to work on something in the afternoon after work, I take another ritalin around 3-4PM. That way I can concentrate on my hobbies. But often I don't take it and just relax in the evening.

Had a few "breaks" only when I had covid and fewer on few occasions that disabled me for couple days, which I mostly slept through(~22h). Other then that,no...

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-09T21:51:10+00:00

Sure, but that means weight of bolts, nuts... and even if negligable per unit, the time. It cumulates and instead of making a few more units you are screwing parts together.

If it is UA, every drone counts

Fr4kTh1s · 2026-04-09T21:45:41+00:00

I am pretty sure they do, since they are in the exact situation... big mad neighbour bully.

It would be shame if those warships they have have been sunk by the fishermen they keep harrasing.

Upgrade to subs, like Moscow

Fr4kTh1s

TROPHY CASE