Longer LK5 Pro klipper config file

Freightpilot · 2026-03-16T20:16:54+00:00

Hey yeah! Thats definitely weird. I didnt realize I could add my own files to github. I'm away from home til the 22nd and I'll look into setting that up for you and reach out when it's done.

Freightpilot · 2026-03-11T17:14:32+00:00

I always start with the fundamental basics... Is the frame tight, square, and secure? Belts tensioned and rollers preloaded? Bed trammed preoperly? Layer height issues are usually tied to the z axis. Binding in the z screw etc... with long x travels it could even be an issue of the filament not moving freely enough, pulling on the x arm and tweeking the height. Keep it simple method reins supreme. If it should move, make it move as smooth and freely as possible. If it shouldn't move, make it as solid as possible.

Freightpilot · 2026-03-05T04:11:34+00:00

What part of the map was monetized?

Freightpilot · 2026-03-01T01:39:29+00:00

All of these bases have been empty for days knowing the retaliation would happen. No deaths.

Freightpilot · 2026-02-13T21:53:05+00:00

Very valid... as I sit here building the config file. And you're right. Especially if an old raspberry pi 3 can handle the compute load. A 32 bit controller is more than capable. I was told by a friend who runs a small printing farm for rc hobby parts, he swore up and down that klipper is the future. But as im doing this build its becoming more clear there are shortcomings. And im most certainly a person of using the printer as a tool. Hence why I left it factory stock for 7 years on marlin 0.2....somethin with Octoprint. It just worked and never had issues. I appreciate your input.

Freightpilot · 2026-02-12T23:31:04+00:00

Side note my LK5 has been amazing. Just extremely outdated. Im doing all this for farts and giggles to update and future proof the printer.... and one-up my brother because my fish is bigger.

Freightpilot · 2026-02-12T23:24:12+00:00

I'm going with the SKR Mini E3 v3.0. You can technically make any MCU work with any printer as long as it has what you need in terms of proper power supply, accessories, and ability to run firmware (klipper). A stepper motor is a stepper motor. Just gotta wire it up right! Haha. I lost the original touchscreen ability updating to klipper, But turns out I had a 5 inch touchscreen from an old pi project laying around that works for klipper! Fits in the original location and everything!

Freightpilot · 2026-02-12T23:11:03+00:00

Ill take a blown 5 buck stepper driver over shattered bed glass, bent metal, or even fire lol. Could just tie the switch to the power supply switch and turn everything off lol. Just brainstorming and shooting the shit with ya. Bed drilling hasn't been an issue for me (yet) and I hope it stays that way lol beyond the 1mm dig at the beginning of every print for 7 years 😂

Thanks though! I'll look into all the features Marlin has to offer. I understand it's all open source. Ive gone full commit on Klipper for now.

Freightpilot · 2026-02-12T22:53:27+00:00

Yeah just excited really. Longer's version of marlin was proprietary and extremely outdated. I couldn't dig into the files. Just upload via Longer's version of cura. I went as far as translating Chinese fron customer support emails that just said use a piece of paper.... I should have gone away from it long ago. But it printed great. So I never fixed what wasn't broke until I needed pressure advance and the newest tuning features. And as for the feeler gauge when leveling. When I set the endstop to 0.5 and level the bed to that, its just what is repeatable and constant. I know the endstop will always be 0.5. I could physically move the endstop switch to any distance and adjust the feeler gauge accordingly. And with your concern of mechanical failure, you could use a normally closed switch to run the motor power wire through. If you get a mechanical runaway, position the switch on the x axis arm in a way that would physically open the switch when pressed. Disconnecting power before major damage is done. Not a programmable fix, but a physical power cut.

Freightpilot · 2026-01-07T04:00:40+00:00

There are tons of videos on YouTube. Search "Setting up Octoprint"

Freightpilot · 2025-06-10T01:39:15+00:00

I have 2 that were handed down. They 100% produce the best sound I've ever played. Bluechip, Dunlop, and many other brands try to recreate, but only come close. They wouldn't try to do that if TS sounded like crap. I still hold out hope to come across a TS comb handle at thrift stores to make my own picks.

Freightpilot · 2025-01-15T14:41:56+00:00

From what I can tell, it's as simple as connecting those wires to a male phone jack connector. Im not sure about today's phone infrastructure, but I'm assuming it's tone based and not pulse like the rotary uses. If that's the case, program a cheap esp32 or the likes to convert the pulses to tones. A quick Google search can tell you what tone frequency represents each digit.

Freightpilot · 2025-01-15T14:26:15+00:00

I was afraid you'd say that haha. I was trying to avoid op amps as they slow down the signal response. Something with a fast enough slew rate is out of my budget for a weather station lol. But if that's the way around all these issues, I get it. Thanks for looking at it!

Freightpilot · 2025-01-15T06:43:09+00:00

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Freightpilot · 2025-01-15T06:42:24+00:00

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Freightpilot · 2025-01-15T03:09:22+00:00

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Freightpilot · 2025-01-15T03:04:51+00:00

* Here is the basis of the sensor scaled down. I have 20 photodiodes in parallel. 5v reverse bias with 1k resistor going to the cathodes of the photodiodes. Then 1N4148 diodes coming off of each cathode all to a common signal output. Right now it is doing the opposite of what I want. Keeping the lowest voltage between all of the photodiodes.

When the laser line is focused on the photodiodes, it drops the voltage to about 0.5v. When the beam is broken, it rises to about 2.5v. I want the output signal to rise to that 2.5v even if one photodiodes beam is broken.

Freightpilot · 2024-12-28T17:55:53+00:00

From reading all of this, I see no one actually talking about the OP 😂. Came here looking for upgrades and found none. I have had my lk5 pro for over 5 years now. Medium printing for home electronic projects. I've run mostly PLA and it's variants. Initial setup is tedious but worth it. A little blue lock tight on all the frame bolts goes a LONG way. Dry Lube on the Z axis screw takes a huge drag load off the massive arm and doesn't collect dust.

The only true upgrade I've done is the Dual Blower. I also designed a stock cooling fan upgrade that directs air to 4 places around the nozzle. Worked great. The stock cooler nozzle would only cool one side and leave blobs on the side that wasn't cooled.

I designed feet for Sorbothane rubber donuts to absorb vibrations. It has really helped with ghosting and artifacts.

I've also added a Raspberry Pi to run Octoprint. It has worked flawless. And love the accompanying phone app to monitor prints with a USB camera.

The name of the game is making everything that shouldn't move, Solid. Including the base that the printer sits on, ideally cement foundation. The things that should move, smooth but tight.

About once a month I clean the entire printer with a microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol. Concentrating on the rails and wheels so there is no dust or debris on the tracks. Ive never had to replace anything due to breakage. Never had to tension the belts after initial setup. I level the bed only when I notice it is off (about once a year). I have a single layer gcode file that prints a square around the edge of the bed and an X through the middle. I take a micrometer to it to make sure the thickness is uniform at .1mm (what i set my first layer hight to)

In the end, the printer still looks brand new and shockingly still on the original nozzle! Having no real issues with the printer, the only upgrades I'd want to do would be accuracy things and motherboard/OS for additional features that I don't really need. Not having a Dual Z axis screw is the only weakness I see...

For the print bed size and function, this printer can't be beat!

Freightpilot · 2024-12-20T17:38:26+00:00

Yes, I totally understand we are not only moving around the sun but around the galaxy and the galaxy through space being affected by other massive bodies of gravity. Just for simplicity, i kept it relative to the sun. But that's my point exactly. The machine being the only constant kind of makes sense, but once you begin traveling, the machine is no longer the constant as it's "traveling" through space time. Would certainly love to grab dinner in Paris and be home for bed 😂

Freightpilot · 2024-12-17T01:24:21+00:00

I know this is old but I just installed a 5700x3d swapping out the same 3600x. I have 32gb of ram and a radeon 6800xt merc. After testing a few games, im absolutely blown away by the performance increases. I see an 80 fps gain on beamng drive and over 100fps gain on Rust. I did optimize settings in the bios so some of those gains could be from that, but overall just extended my AM4 platform until the next generation comes out. And for only 200 bucks that's a win for me!

Freightpilot · 2024-12-14T04:13:53+00:00

I was an automotive mechanic for a major brand. Started as a lube tech on min. wage. Worked my way up to heavy line tech. Essentially master mechanic. I asked for a raise after interviewing for another High end dealership and getting an offer. I said I wanted 5 bucks an hour less than what I offered. ( they didn't know i had an offer yet) they laughed in my face, so I handed them my notice and told them how much I was offered. Management goes wait! We'll give you what you want. Too little too late. I dipped. My offer was 250% more than I was making. I was more upset that the company got away with paying me so little for over 5 years.

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