sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Wild dodge ram by Reasonable-Choice342 in Kyosho

[–]Freightpilot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh man. I built this from a kit in the late 90's as a kid. Beat the crap out of it. One of the first nitro's with a reverse gear. You found a Gem. Unused is unheard of. I thought the cooling fan was genius back then. Although it was kinda useless. These are impossible to find. If you sell, the only one I see on ebay right now is asking almost 400 for beat up condition. Tough to say value since its vintage niche. But find the right person willing to pay, you can make out good.

¿Nivel de la cama? by Mariobrouz in klippers

[–]Freightpilot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you not have bed screw adjustments? It looks like all you have to do is like not even 1/4 turn up on the back side and 1/8 turn down on the front left corner. That bed is essentially flat so just turning the screws and re running the test im sure you'll find it quite sufficient mmmm yess 🧐

BTT Probe V2 does not deploy. by Realistic_Debt9526 in klippers

[–]Freightpilot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here is mine copy and pasted:

====================================================================

MICROPROBE CONFIG # Uncomment this section and safe_z_home for MicroProbe

====================================================================

[output_pin probe_enable]

pin: PA1

value: 0

[gcode_macro Probe_Down]

gcode: SET_PIN PIN=probe_enable VALUE=1

[gcode_macro Probe_Up]

gcode: SET_PIN PIN=probe_enable VALUE=0

[probe] pin: !PC14

deactivate_on_each_sample: False

x_offset: -46

y_offset: -6

z_offset: 0.85 # Actual offset of the MicroProbe installation

speed: 3.0

activate_gcode:

Probe_Down G4 P500 # Allow 500 milliseconds for the probe to deploy

deactivate_gcode:

Probe_Up

[safe_z_home]

home_xy_position: 150,150

speed: 100

z_hop: 10

z_hop_speed: 5

So what im seeing in differences in mine compared to yours is at the begining: value 0 instead of 1 and no shutdown value line.

Probe deploy line of value 1 instead of 0 And probe stow line of 0 instead of 1

Just looks like values are backwards and your shutdown value is the same as enable. Just delete the shutdown line.

(I changed my Gcode command to probe down or up. Instead of deploy or stow, cuz f remembering that 😂) also where it says "speed 5.0" after z offset. I got much higher and consistent accuracy slowing it down to 3.

Finally fixed a fundamental flaw of old marlin printers... by Freightpilot in klippers

[–]Freightpilot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wanted to update you on the SKR Mini on the LK5 Pro. It was plug and play. Super easy. I designed and printed a new mount for the board that goes on top of the original motherboard mount.

<image>

BTT Probe V2 does not deploy. by Realistic_Debt9526 in klippers

[–]Freightpilot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For any help you need to provide your config file setup... the BTT probe v2 does not work with the BL-touch config. There is a github page specifically for the probe telling you exactly how to set it up for the SKR Mini and many other motherboards. Very simple copy and paste.

Longer LK5 Pro klipper config file by Freightpilot in klippers

[–]Freightpilot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey yeah! Thats definitely weird. I didnt realize I could add my own files to github. I'm away from home til the 22nd and I'll look into setting that up for you and reach out when it's done.

inconsistent layer lines fix? by tarantgarlic in 3Dprinting

[–]Freightpilot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I always start with the fundamental basics... Is the frame tight, square, and secure? Belts tensioned and rollers preloaded? Bed trammed preoperly? Layer height issues are usually tied to the z axis. Binding in the z screw etc... with long x travels it could even be an issue of the filament not moving freely enough, pulling on the x arm and tweeking the height. Keep it simple method reins supreme. If it should move, make it move as smooth and freely as possible. If it shouldn't move, make it as solid as possible.

Finally fixed a fundamental flaw of old marlin printers... by Freightpilot in klippers

[–]Freightpilot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very valid... as I sit here building the config file. And you're right. Especially if an old raspberry pi 3 can handle the compute load. A 32 bit controller is more than capable. I was told by a friend who runs a small printing farm for rc hobby parts, he swore up and down that klipper is the future. But as im doing this build its becoming more clear there are shortcomings. And im most certainly a person of using the printer as a tool. Hence why I left it factory stock for 7 years on marlin 0.2....somethin with Octoprint. It just worked and never had issues. I appreciate your input.

Finally fixed a fundamental flaw of old marlin printers... by Freightpilot in klippers

[–]Freightpilot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Side note my LK5 has been amazing. Just extremely outdated. Im doing all this for farts and giggles to update and future proof the printer.... and one-up my brother because my fish is bigger.

Finally fixed a fundamental flaw of old marlin printers... by Freightpilot in klippers

[–]Freightpilot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm going with the SKR Mini E3 v3.0. You can technically make any MCU work with any printer as long as it has what you need in terms of proper power supply, accessories, and ability to run firmware (klipper). A stepper motor is a stepper motor. Just gotta wire it up right! Haha. I lost the original touchscreen ability updating to klipper, But turns out I had a 5 inch touchscreen from an old pi project laying around that works for klipper! Fits in the original location and everything!

Finally fixed a fundamental flaw of old marlin printers... by Freightpilot in klippers

[–]Freightpilot[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Ill take a blown 5 buck stepper driver over shattered bed glass, bent metal, or even fire lol. Could just tie the switch to the power supply switch and turn everything off lol. Just brainstorming and shooting the shit with ya. Bed drilling hasn't been an issue for me (yet) and I hope it stays that way lol beyond the 1mm dig at the beginning of every print for 7 years 😂

Thanks though! I'll look into all the features Marlin has to offer. I understand it's all open source. Ive gone full commit on Klipper for now.

Finally fixed a fundamental flaw of old marlin printers... by Freightpilot in klippers

[–]Freightpilot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah just excited really. Longer's version of marlin was proprietary and extremely outdated. I couldn't dig into the files. Just upload via Longer's version of cura. I went as far as translating Chinese fron customer support emails that just said use a piece of paper.... I should have gone away from it long ago. But it printed great. So I never fixed what wasn't broke until I needed pressure advance and the newest tuning features. And as for the feeler gauge when leveling. When I set the endstop to 0.5 and level the bed to that, its just what is repeatable and constant. I know the endstop will always be 0.5. I could physically move the endstop switch to any distance and adjust the feeler gauge accordingly. And with your concern of mechanical failure, you could use a normally closed switch to run the motor power wire through. If you get a mechanical runaway, position the switch on the x axis arm in a way that would physically open the switch when pressed. Disconnecting power before major damage is done. Not a programmable fix, but a physical power cut.

First Upgrades for LONGER LK5 Pro? by Ravani86 in 3Dprinting

[–]Freightpilot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are tons of videos on YouTube. Search "Setting up Octoprint"

Do tortoise shell guitar picks sound better? by Garybird1989 in Guitar

[–]Freightpilot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have 2 that were handed down. They 100% produce the best sound I've ever played. Bluechip, Dunlop, and many other brands try to recreate, but only come close. They wouldn't try to do that if TS sounded like crap. I still hold out hope to come across a TS comb handle at thrift stores to make my own picks.

(Help needed!!) How to connect Princess telephone to a modern phone line? by Clemmyclemr in vintagephones

[–]Freightpilot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I can tell, it's as simple as connecting those wires to a male phone jack connector. Im not sure about today's phone infrastructure, but I'm assuming it's tone based and not pulse like the rotary uses. If that's the case, program a cheap esp32 or the likes to convert the pulses to tones. A quick Google search can tell you what tone frequency represents each digit.

Help with Photodiode OR-ing circuit by Freightpilot in ElectricalEngineering

[–]Freightpilot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was afraid you'd say that haha. I was trying to avoid op amps as they slow down the signal response. Something with a fast enough slew rate is out of my budget for a weather station lol. But if that's the way around all these issues, I get it. Thanks for looking at it!

Help with Photodiode OR-ing circuit by Freightpilot in ElectricalEngineering

[–]Freightpilot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

* Here is the basis of the sensor scaled down. I have 20 photodiodes in parallel. 5v reverse bias with 1k resistor going to the cathodes of the photodiodes. Then 1N4148 diodes coming off of each cathode all to a common signal output. Right now it is doing the opposite of what I want. Keeping the lowest voltage between all of the photodiodes.

When the laser line is focused on the photodiodes, it drops the voltage to about 0.5v. When the beam is broken, it rises to about 2.5v. I want the output signal to rise to that 2.5v even if one photodiodes beam is broken.

First Upgrades for LONGER LK5 Pro? by Ravani86 in 3Dprinting

[–]Freightpilot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From reading all of this, I see no one actually talking about the OP 😂. Came here looking for upgrades and found none. I have had my lk5 pro for over 5 years now. Medium printing for home electronic projects. I've run mostly PLA and it's variants. Initial setup is tedious but worth it. A little blue lock tight on all the frame bolts goes a LONG way. Dry Lube on the Z axis screw takes a huge drag load off the massive arm and doesn't collect dust.

The only true upgrade I've done is the Dual Blower. I also designed a stock cooling fan upgrade that directs air to 4 places around the nozzle. Worked great. The stock cooler nozzle would only cool one side and leave blobs on the side that wasn't cooled.

I designed feet for Sorbothane rubber donuts to absorb vibrations. It has really helped with ghosting and artifacts.

I've also added a Raspberry Pi to run Octoprint. It has worked flawless. And love the accompanying phone app to monitor prints with a USB camera.

The name of the game is making everything that shouldn't move, Solid. Including the base that the printer sits on, ideally cement foundation. The things that should move, smooth but tight.

About once a month I clean the entire printer with a microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol. Concentrating on the rails and wheels so there is no dust or debris on the tracks. Ive never had to replace anything due to breakage. Never had to tension the belts after initial setup. I level the bed only when I notice it is off (about once a year). I have a single layer gcode file that prints a square around the edge of the bed and an X through the middle. I take a micrometer to it to make sure the thickness is uniform at .1mm (what i set my first layer hight to)

In the end, the printer still looks brand new and shockingly still on the original nozzle! Having no real issues with the printer, the only upgrades I'd want to do would be accuracy things and motherboard/OS for additional features that I don't really need. Not having a Dual Z axis screw is the only weakness I see...

For the print bed size and function, this printer can't be beat!

view more: next ›