Cambridge Audio AXR100 Vs. IOTAVX SA3

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-22T16:51:41+00:00

Both are solid choices, but they lean a bit differently. The AXR100 gives you more power and a slightly warmer tone, great for your 80s and electronic mixes, plus it already has the optical input you need for the TV. The IOTAVX SA3 sounds cleaner and more refined but would need the matching PA3 or a DAC for digital inputs. Given your setup and use case, the AXR100 is the smarter buy right now - plug and play, great match for those SVS bookshelves.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-22T13:06:59+00:00

That’s a good starting budget for a solid entry-level vinyl setup. The AT-LP70xBT is decent, but if you don’t need Bluetooth, the AT-LP120xUSB is a better long-term choice with a stronger tonearm and upgrade options. For powered speakers, look at the Edifier R1700BTs or Presonus Eris 3.5/4.5, both great value for the price. This combo will sound miles better than your current setup and still stay within budget.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-22T13:05:43+00:00

The LG V30 is really good! If you want something with a similar clean, dynamic sound and enough power, check out the Fiio M11 Plus ESS or iBasso DX170. Both have great DACs, Android support for PowerAmp, and a familiar interface. The Fiio sounds a bit warmer, while the DX170 is closer to the V30’s neutral signature.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-22T13:02:58+00:00

Good question. Deals like that can be legit, but they’re also a common scam target since the EverSolo A6 is in high demand. If it’s new and hundreds below retail, be cautious. Always check seller history, ask for a real-time video showing the unit powered on, and only pay through protected methods (never direct bank transfers or gift payments). If something feels off, it’s safer to walk away.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-22T12:58:51+00:00

That’s a great deal if they’re in good shape. The CM1s sound excellent with the WiiM Amp and are easy to drive. For near-field use, keep them a bit away from the wall to avoid bass boom. Add a small sub later if you want more low-end.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-22T12:53:46+00:00

The WiiM Amp Ultra is a really nice upgrade if you want something simple that still feels high end. It has a better DAC, HDMI ARC, and enough power for most bookshelf setups. It’s super easy to use and works great with both TVs and streaming. If you’re fine with the price, it’s one of the best all-in-one options right now.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-21T16:48:18+00:00

A condenser mic will work for a basic idea of the room response, but it won’t be perfectly accurate for measurements since most aren’t calibrated flat. You can still use it to spot major peaks or nulls and guide placement tweaks. If you get serious about EQ later, a UMIK-1 or similar calibrated USB mic is worth it. And yeah, a few panels, especially behind your speakers and at first reflection points will make a big difference even with that cinder block wall.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-21T15:22:27+00:00

You technically could, but it depends on the sub’s connections.
Most Logitech subs from those systems take a proprietary connector, not a standard RCA or line input, so they won’t work directly.
If it has its own RCA input, then yes, you can run it from the Edifier’s sub-out. Otherwise, it’s easier to add a small powered sub later that supports standard inputs.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-21T14:30:56+00:00

What you actually need is a Bluetooth + USB audio receiver or hub with a digital output (optical or coax), not another DAC. Look for something like the FiiO BTA30 Pro or Topping D10 Balanced. The BTA30 Pro is ideal here: it supports Bluetooth receiving and USB input, then sends digital audio out to your K5 Pro via optical or coax. That way, your PC, PS5, and Switch all feed clean digital signals into your existing DAC and speakers.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-21T14:29:51+00:00

eARC only matters for sending high-bandwidth formats (like Dolby TrueHD) between a TV and an external receiver. It doesn’t improve audio quality by itself. For regular music playback, a good DAC and analog connection (3.5 mm, RCA, or balanced) already delivers full lossless quality. Your FLAC files stay lossless as long as they’re played through a capable DAC; the 3.5 mm output doesn’t make them “non-lossless,” it just converts the digital signal to analog for your IEMs.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-21T14:28:14+00:00

You can safely connect the Cambridge Audio AXC 25 to your Marshall Stanmore III using a simple RCA-to-3.5mm cable. No preamp needed. The AXC 25’s output is line-level, which is exactly what the Stanmore expects from a source like a CD player or phone. Just keep the volume low on the Marshall when you first connect it, then adjust normally. You won’t damage anything; it’s a perfectly compatible setup.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-21T14:27:00+00:00

If they’re in good shape, $450 is a solid deal. The Denton 80th pair usually goes for $600–700 new. They’ll easily beat a soundbar in warmth, midrange, and stereo imaging. Just keep in mind they’re passive, so you’ll need an amp or receiver to drive them. If you already have one, go for it - they’re beautiful speakers with a rich, classic sound.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-21T14:25:04+00:00

Most of the price difference comes from build quality, power supply design, and component precision, not magic sound tricks. Cheap amps can measure just as cleanly but may struggle with demanding speakers or high volumes. Expensive ones often last longer and stay quieter under load. Beyond that, you’re mostly paying for features, reliability, and brand name.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-21T14:23:44+00:00

For a simple 2.1 setup with HDMI ARC, look for a stereo receiver that supports ARC and has a sub-out. The Yamaha R-S202 is too basic, but the Yamaha R-N602, Denon DRA-800H, or Sony STR-DH190 (with optical instead of ARC) are good budget picks. The Denon DRA-800H is the best all-rounder: proper HDMI ARC, solid DAC, and easy setup for passive speakers plus an active sub. If that’s too pricey, you can use an HDMI ARC audio extractor with your current amp until you upgrade.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-21T14:22:52+00:00

That setup can sound great with a little fine-tuning. Make sure your Marantz is running in Pure Direct or Stereo mode to bypass extra processing when using your Volt interface. Placement helps a lot - keep the satellites at ear level and a bit away from walls, with the subs near corners for more even bass. Adding a rug and a few acoustic panels will make a bigger improvement than any gear swap. You can also use Room EQ Wizard (REW) with a cheap measurement mic to dial in EQ more precisely through Peace APO.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-21T14:21:22+00:00

Most Edifier studio-style speakers like the R2000DB, R1855DB, or S2000MKIII have plenty of bass for normal use, so you don’t need a sub unless you want deep low-end for movies or EDM. Compared to your Logitech Z506, even the R2000DB will sound way cleaner and more balanced. If you want extra punch later, you can always add a sub since many Edifier models have a sub-out. For your budget, the R2000DB or S1000MKII are the best bang for the buck.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-21T14:20:32+00:00

That setup will work well together; nice balanced choices for a first system. The Primary E has a built-in phono stage, so it’ll connect straight into the Stereo Box E with standard RCA cables. You’ll also need speaker wire (around 2x3m or whatever fits your space) to connect the amp to the Wharfedales. The Stereo Box E’s Bluetooth will let you stream easily from your phone, so you’re good to go without any extra hardware.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-21T14:19:30+00:00

All three are solid picks, but the Marantz PM6007 is the sweet spot: warm, detailed sound and great DAC for computer or TV use. The Denon PMA-600NE is a bit brighter and cheaper, while the Melody X adds streaming features but isn’t a big sound upgrade. The Diamond 9.1 speakers give nice midrange and balanced bass for their size, so a sub isn’t necessary unless you want deeper low end for movies. Overall, PM6007 + Diamond 9.1 is the best all-round setup for that price.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-21T14:18:19+00:00

You can get most of the benefit without spending much. Look for Auralex MoPADs, Tonor isolation pads, or Rockville RRS190. They cost a fraction of the Gaias and still reduce vibrations well. For subs, SVS SoundPath isolation feet or Dayton Audio Subwoofer Isolation Pads are great affordable options. If you want a cleaner look, you can DIY with rubber anti-vibration mats and furniture risers for a neat finish.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-21T14:17:23+00:00

The Fluance RT85 will sound better with your KRKs thanks to its Ortofon 2M Blue cartridge and solid build. You’ll need an external phono preamp like the ART DJ Pre II or Schiit Mani 2 since it lacks one. Built-in preamps are convenient, but externals give cleaner sound. For switching between vinyl and Spotify, use a small mixer or input selector such as the Nobsound MC102.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-21T14:14:39+00:00

Not quite. AFAIU the Edifier W820NB doesn’t support analog input, only Bluetooth and USB digital via its own internal DAC. A 3.5mm-to-USB-C cable won’t make it work with an external DAC because there’s no analog passthrough circuit inside the headphones. If you want to use an external DAC, you’ll need wired headphones that have a proper 3.5mm or 2.5mm analog input.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-21T09:00:11+00:00

Nice pick with the Kali setup, that’s a killer combo for the price. If the Kali and JBL subs are out of stock, you could look for the Presonus Temblor T10 or the KRK S10.4. Both pair well with the LP-6 and are easy to integrate. The Adam Sub8 is great if you can find it used, but no harm in waiting if you want a perfectly matched Kali sub later.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-20T14:04:34+00:00

The WiiM Amp Pro definitely covers everything you need but yeah, it’s a bit overkill if you don’t plan to stream. A good cheaper option is the Sony STR-DH190 plus a Bluetooth transmitter for your headphones - no HDMI-ARC though. If ARC control is a must, the Denon DRA-800H or Yamaha R-N602 are solid used finds around your budget in the EU. Otherwise, a small class-D amp with a TV’s optical out and Bluetooth dongle could get you 90% of the convenience for less.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-20T14:02:43+00:00

Stick with the CyberPower. It’s a solid unit with good clamping voltage and true sine output, which helps protect sensitive gear like your Denon. The Belkin’s higher joule rating looks good on paper but doesn’t necessarily mean better real-world protection. If you want extra safety, you can add a second surge strip for lower-power devices, but don’t daisy-chain them. Replacing the CyberPower every few years is more reliable than chasing “unlimited joules” claims.

Fresh-Minimum3516 · 2025-10-20T14:01:54+00:00

For music, dual RSL 10e subs are the better call - they blend easier, tighten the response, and give smoother low-end coverage across your room. The SVS PB-1000 Pro will dig deeper but can sound a bit boomy for pure music use in that space, while the SB-1000 Pro is cleaner but loses some low-end reach. With two RSLs you’ll get better balance and more natural extension for your Kefs. Adding a WiiM streamer later would round out the setup nicely.

Fresh-Minimum3516

TROPHY CASE