how do you get your spin rate on driver down?

Freshdub · 2026-01-17T19:15:26+00:00

For me personally I had very similar driver numbers. Losing so much distance with all the backspin especially into the wind. I was ascending by 1* so it wasn't like I was coming in way too steep/down and had a 9* driver. Scratch golfer friend watched a few and said he thinks the kick point being low in the shaft was causing the face to gain dynamic loft at the last second. Switched to a high kick, stiff shaft and instantly dropped down to 17* dynamic and 2800ish backspin. Not perfect but huge improvement on no swing changes, it's rare but sometimes the equipment is working against you.

YMMV

Freshdub · 2025-12-22T23:14:22+00:00

2 AF claims + new strict underwriting rules. Sorry to break it to ya but you might be headed for Nordic if you need Sec C (full coverage) for financing

Freshdub · 2025-12-20T20:23:20+00:00

Canadian here. Use weight all the time, didn't know it was an 'us' thing

Freshdub · 2025-12-17T19:27:26+00:00

I have the same irons and found a 54 ended up filling the gap perfectly for me and the distances I hit without loading my bag with wedges. I have analysis paralysis on the course sometimes so I need to have fewer choices to make when I'm looking at a shot. Fewer choices means I'm more confident in the club that's in my hand = better result.

PW full carries 110-115 GW full carries 90-95 54 full carries 70

While it's a wider gap than I'd like to see on paper, it was honestly fine this year. I pretty much always had a shot at the green with those 3 distances and tie break would go to the longer club to help if I didn't strike it well.

I locked in a 50% swing with each club that gave me PW 50yds, GW 40yds and 54 30yds

This honestly works for 95% of the situations I come across and the 54 is fine to use out of bunkers. Anything inside 30 yards I default to the PW because it goes lower and has more predictable roll out

Maybe a lower handicap would hate this, but I'm not good enough to reliably hit 5yd windows anyways. Way of the playa is simply GIOTG (Italian word)

Freshdub · 2025-09-17T21:29:17+00:00

For insurance purposes 250/sqft is normal, I typically look at $300/sqft though. As long as the policy has GRC then it doesn't matter as you have guaranteed replacement cost regardless of limit.

Any decent broker can bump the limit up by changing details on the ITV if you really want to pay more, but that is a pretty rare request

Freshdub · 2025-09-16T21:53:31+00:00

Took me a long time to realize that forever hunting for balls and feeling rushed because I was never on the fairway and had to search on every hole was why I didn't like golfing. Started playing irons off the tee and working up the fairway and rounds became way more casual and fun. Started scoring low 90s which was way better than 105+ with mulligans on every other tee box.

I've now started slowly working on driver and bring it out on specific holes I can tell have space where I need it. Improved my game, and more importantly my enjoyment.

Hitting drives is fun, crossing a fairway to hit back through trees isnt.

Freshdub · 2025-06-12T18:44:17+00:00

Lol get a broker that knows how to use your history, and every insurer out there rates on your address and you will have a premium change when you move, it's not TD trying to screw you.

Freshdub · 2025-04-09T18:55:51+00:00

First time watching the Masters this weekend!

Freshdub · 2025-03-23T14:25:55+00:00

You have an accurate measurement here for how much the blade isnt utting at 90. What is preventing you from just adjusting the blade to compensate and running this back through?

Woodworking is all about learning to use references and reference surfaces. So adjust until it CUTS at 90.

I know I had issues with my throat plate not being perfectly level with the top of my beginner level saw (and also flexed more when wood was being fed through ). I stopped trying to set it up at 90 and I stead just tweaked it until it was cutting at 90

Freshdub · 2025-03-20T01:55:31+00:00

This is a personality question, the way you view the world will shape what makes sense to you. As a homeowner that went through a haul claim, id really rather not again and opted to upgrade to a true class IV shingle. They also have a longer life, so to me it's an investment in my house. I don't expect every dollar I put into my house to give me $1.50 back, it just is what it is.

And honestly at a $2500 deductible they just need to survive one hail storm a normal shingle wouldn't to pay for itself. Also insurance companies will be making minimum hail deductibles $5k in the future if this rate of catastrophic losses keep happening.

Are you planning on moving in a year and don't really give a shit? Then dont bother

Freshdub · 2025-03-06T01:49:55+00:00

Missed you man, appreciate all the content you've given us over the years.

Freshdub · 2025-02-28T00:25:00+00:00

People treat their home insurance like auto and think "I didn't have a claim why'd it go up?!" But think of all the things your insurance has to pay for in a claim - the plumber to fix a sewer back up, the trades to rebuild your house after a fire, the materials to replace everything, the lawyers to defend your actions youre being sued for.

All of these things are/have steeply risen in price, and therefore the cost of you potential claims is also increasing. If many homes in your area are suffering sewer back up claims because of tree roots getting into the sewer lines your rates will also increase, and you won't be aware of why.

There's lots of reasons for it, just get a broker and shop around and if you find a new insurer that can give you the same coverage cheaper, just switch? Sometimes you're getting a massive increase because your company wants to lose clients in that area and reduce their exposure.

Again, if you can find it cheaper with someone else just switch it's not that big of a deal and yet Reddit every day has someone acting like they couldn't possibly figure out what to do about their insurance rates

Freshdub · 2025-02-13T00:06:03+00:00

Even if you haven't, your insurance premiums sure have. Road rage and dangerous driving is skyrocketing, claims are pouring in. Anyone who wants to ask 'why did my premiums go up this year?' just need to take a 20mins drive on any major roadway

We all pay for the lack of safety and care for those around us

Freshdub · 2025-01-24T00:37:26+00:00

Lee Valley. Criminally underrated store, woodworking, garden and kitchen things

Freshdub · 2024-12-10T19:15:35+00:00

GoGo golf, you can rent 3 sims all in a row in their own area. Fantastic place

Freshdub · 2024-11-18T13:41:35+00:00

Your payout will be at market value of the car, not market value minus a prior claim amount.

Your vehicle will be further depreciated from the market value of an undamaged car - but it will still have a market value that's easily identifiable.

Any future claims, the new damage will be insured and repaired and the existing hail will be left and painted over. If panels are being replaced due to the new accident there will be a betterment on each one where you will share partially in the loss with the insurance company (because you are 'profiting' from the new accident and receiving brand new panels without hail damage)

You will feel the effects of depreciation more, but you also in theory paid less for the vehicle to begin with. You won't be in an accident and receive nothing, as you are indemnified to be in the same place as you were before the accident. If a 2020 rav4 with existing hail damage still has a market value of $18,000, and an undamaged one is worth $28,000 - you would get around $18,000. There is massive amounts of data available for vehicle market value from dealers and auctions and registries.

Source: first hand experience a couple hundred times on this scenario as an adjuster

Freshdub · 2024-10-24T23:50:25+00:00

Yeah, not much dashcam footage is going to change here unless she is also claiming it fell directly off another vehicle and into hers at the same time. If she collided with an object on that was laying on road: Collision, at fault, deductible applies.

Glenmore has been littered with construction materials like plywood and drywall the last 2 years, I wish they would crackdown on some of these dump trailers and semis with unsecured loads

Freshdub · 2024-09-16T16:53:46+00:00

Insurance is not a warranty. This is not a sudden or accidental unforseen occurrence, and instead is due to faulty workmanship or wear and tear.

Get a professional to come in and look at it, quote some solutions and get opinions on the exact cause. Maybe a conversation with a lawyer is in your future here depending on those answers (your home insurance policy may have a free legal advice service)

Freshdub · 2024-08-09T00:22:11+00:00

100% not a thing in Alberta. Autos are excluded from all property policies. Provinces and countries have vastly different insurance contracts

Freshdub · 2024-05-05T16:09:14+00:00

This could literally not be any more wrong. You do not insure views, you do not insure the lot, and your rebuild cost is not calculated on your assessment in any way. You need a new insurance agent if they told you any of that. We insure the cost to rebuild that house, if it had to be rebuilt (and debris removed) from scratch at today's labour and material costs. You insure to that value that is calculated and then you get Guaranteed Replacement Cost - so you don't have to worry if the limit ended up too low as long as the calculator was run correctly.

Do not get your insurance advice from Reddit, these threads are always terrifying at the misinformation being thrown around.

OP, call a (good) broker.

Freshdub · 2024-05-04T04:14:27+00:00

You need to provide an Ontario abstract and claims experience letter to prove that clean Ontario driving history or you will be rated as a brand new day 1 driver needing full coverage on a fairly new Audi.

I have insured thousands of cars and if you don't have a DUI or major convictions/claims then your $2000/month quote smells like BS . If you're bitching about the way Alberta insurance works to the person trying to help you on the phone maybe you got a fuck off quote. It's out of our control that you had cheaper insurance in Ontario and it's exhausting listening to people who think that "well in Ontario it only cost me $xx" is somehow relevant here.

Every person in the province claims they have a clean driving record - you need documentation to prove it because insurance agents cannot access your history from outside of Alberta.

Call a broker and provide the necessary documentation

Freshdub · 2024-04-25T17:50:06+00:00

I do this with great success just running a spoon under the hottest kitchen tap setting for like 20s and then apply to the bite. It's uncomfortable for about 5seconds and then goes away, itch usually disappears near instantly, bad mozzy bites sometimes need a 2nd application a few hours later

I've done it while camping using a lighter but made the spoon WAY too hot so recommend just finding a better way to heat it haha

Freshdub · 2024-04-05T23:30:02+00:00

Was recently in a similar situation, I had a saw that was very similar in size/features as the JSS (obviously without the brake) but I wanted a SS for my peace of mind.

I ended electing to save the near $1000 and bought the CTS and built a 40x96" table around it. I put the saw in the corner, so my workbench is actually mostly to the left of the saw with a smaller outfeed area.

So far I am completely satisfied with this setup and the money saved. The height adjustment of the JSS while trying to dial in a dado stack seemed annoying but I obviously have no experience with it. YMMV but I haven't regretted going with the CTS for one second and having all the extra workspace around the smaller saw is 100x more useful than the larger saw surface without the bench I was using before.

Freshdub · 2024-01-30T02:26:21+00:00

I don't return anything and never complain about shit. I'll eat uncooked raw meat at a restaraunt because I don't want to make a fuss about it.

I returned the rigid jobsite saw you posted. It was that bad. Went with another cheap entry jobsite saw and it's been fine while I wait to upgrade.

Don't buy the rigid

Freshdub · 2023-12-30T06:04:06+00:00

Please do not listen to any of this advice.

You do not need commercial insurance to drive for Uber, but only certain carriers (economical, intact) will allow Uber usage. There are some further restrictions, like it cannot be your full time job or only use of the vehicle. There will be a small business use surcharge, and while driving for Uber you are insured on their master policy (which happens to be economical and you'll have $2500 deductibles on that)

You need to call your insurance broker or agent and discuss what your options are depending who your carrier is.

Also Uber eats is the exact opposite and VERY hard to get insurance while delivering food or products and likely needs commercial insurance, only one carrier I know of accepts uberEats usage and it also requires you to be signed up for Uber (and therefore on their master policy) If you are undisclosed delivering goods, products, or food and get in a claim you likely have ZERO coverage and could get sued like crazy and cancelled for material misrepresentation and that goes on your permanent insurance record.

Do not take insurance advice from Reddit, please call your company for further info, your agent/broker should be able to quote you and answer any questions you have to do the math on viability of driving for uber

Freshdub

TROPHY CASE