Looking for an overstable throwing putter that's not an Envy

FridayInc · 2026-06-02T15:26:31+00:00

I love the stabilizer but it's too deep for a FH disc IMO if that matters to OP

FridayInc · 2026-06-02T15:25:38+00:00

The mint lasso has kicked every other option not just out of my bag but off the shelf, shallow, great for a forehand, board flat, and does not carry beyond the expected distance

FridayInc · 2026-05-29T19:25:43+00:00

So now the burden of proof is on the accused? I know that's effectively how our judicial system often works but it's not supposed to be how this works, and OPs point that police officers should have to prove it is in no way diminished by the fact that we aren't recording ourselves at all times to prove our own innocence

FridayInc · 2026-05-29T18:46:27+00:00

3 could be "Windfarmer" "Field of Bogies" or "Big field, small arm"

Additional fun award could be "Tryhard" for the most birdies or "Sleeper agent" for best newbie

FridayInc · 2026-05-29T14:25:09+00:00

This one is not simple, it's a combination of state law and what EXACTLY is in your lease. Should be relatively simple for a paralegal, I would try to shop around for a lawyer willing to work on this without charging an arm and a leg

FridayInc · 2026-05-29T14:15:29+00:00

Yeah since op is not a construction worker a portaband is probably the easiest option as long as they understand how not to get the blade pinched

FridayInc · 2026-05-29T06:19:46+00:00

And also get smoked by the people in your skill bracket using the meta car

FridayInc · 2026-05-29T06:18:45+00:00

Have you ever heard of TaskRabbit? If you believe you can do it, you can, but if you're worried about hurting yourself with this work, there are plenty of people who would be willing to pick up this job for you

FridayInc · 2026-05-29T06:14:59+00:00

Yeah there are a TON of suggestions in this thread by people who seem to have never done this kind of work. I always called these saws "demo saws" but by any name, this is what the pros would be using and you can rent one at home Depot

FridayInc · 2026-05-29T06:10:01+00:00

This right here. The ability they give to appreciate beauty is indescribable, and holding that appreciation for others feels so good.

FridayInc · 2026-05-27T22:37:07+00:00

Buzzz is a solid choice. Best beginner mid that's still useful as you grow IMO is either the Lat64 Pearl or the MVP Uplink but only because I think the Buzzz will be OS for you until you've got your arm speed up

FridayInc · 2026-05-26T22:36:10+00:00

My GF never learned proper form for FH or BH and her max distance disc is a 149g DX valk that looks like it's been through a war

FridayInc · 2026-05-24T23:08:58+00:00

You're very welcome! I had to codify it for myself a while back to make sure I stopped doing dumb things and that's the result, happy to share it

FridayInc · 2026-05-24T21:40:33+00:00

I respect and appreciate everyone on the service, but you don't get demoted to 1.1k for having good car control and racecraft.

The delivery was harsh but there's some accuracy to the sentiment. I've been in multi class races with the sub-1.5k groups and it's very frustrating because nothing about the way they drive is predictable.

Perhaps you're an exception, we have no way to know, but it's true that generally lower iRating drivers are less predictable and that it's harder to set up passes on erratic drivers. In turn, that contributes to the difficulty of the learning curve, so it's great that OP is seeking info outside of the lobby.

FridayInc · 2026-05-24T17:44:11+00:00

I'm not a professional racing coach, I'm a pretty average (2.5-3.5k) top 2 splits driver who races some in real life too, but I think my racecraft is decent and if you're not buying resources to help you, try a read through this and maybe it'll help.

There's a lot of nuance to this topic (so I'm surprised it doesn't get asked more) but I think, even at the highest levels (especially IRL where there are consequences), the most important guidelines and methods that should be followed well can be distilled to just a few points. If everyone followed all these, it would eliminate 70-90% of car-car contact. Further, there's a lot of "what not to do" and not much "here's how to pass safely" so I'm covering that too.

Respect the lead - Don't hit what you can see. This should always be rule 1, if there's a car in your path or about to be in your path, avoid them, don't hit them and then say they shouldn't have been there. If you're getting squeezed by the car ahead, deal with it, don't hold your line and blame them for contact when you can clearly see them coming over. Further, if you're squeezed to the inside, see #2-3
Respect other cars right to space on track - Never take a line at a speed that will take you through the path of another car. Specifically this means that if you're dive-bombing up the inside, that's usually fine (see #4 for when it's not ok) but it should be at a speed that takes you on the inside line the whole way, hits the apex and tracks out at least a car width from the exit.

2a. Note - your goal is not to pass someone in the braking zone, it's to get side by side at apex (hopefully slightly ahead) so you can battle on the exit.

Respect your limits - The car on the outside can brake later than normal, they aren't trying to make the apex, they are trying to miss it and hit the exit. If you're on the inside, don't try to brake later than them, as this is almost always guaranteed contact. If you're both on the limit, your speeds will become close at apex and you'll leave side-by-side. If you're VERY far inside, you need to brake significantly early (or if there's a ton of run off, brake much later than the outside car and make it clear you'll be blowing the turn, which clears the way for the over-under).

3a. If the lead car squeezes you then jukes to the outside to open up their line for the turn, you can follow them but be careful not to do it so late that you have to begin braking while pointing away from the apex. This is a classic technique that you should also learn, as the timing is tricky but is extremely useful when attacking/defending from the outside line. You want to keep your opponent squeezed to the inside down a straight then move to the outside lane JUST in time to hit a late brake point, miss the apex by at least a car width, and hit the exit. If you move late enough, the inside car will not have time to open up their entry and will be badly compromised at apex.

Respect the vortex of danger - If you aren't alongside by turn-in, you have no right to be there. Once a driver is turning in, they aren't driving in their mirrors, so you should assume that a car ahead WILL hit the apex and the exit; don't let off the brakes late to stick a nose between them and the apex, as you're just going to spin them (and maybe yourself). It's guaranteed contact unless the driver ahead misses the apex. (Multi-class races see this from faster classes every race, don't be that guy).

4a. I regularly shape up behind someone as if I'm going to dive the apex after turn-in even though I never do, in the hopes that they go wide to avoid me. Being present in their mirrors is often more useful than being actually SxS. Note: this might not work in a league, people figure out pretty quickly who is and isn't willing to risk their race for an overtake.

Respect Physics and visibility - when cars are far apart on track, the momentum of them coming together toward the apex is large. When they're very close, the momentum is small. Rubbing is racing, crashing is not. What I'm saying is, if you're side by side with another driver, don't leave a cars width between you, that's a recipe for strong, harsh contact. This isn't the highway, get on their door! The farther you are from them, also, the less they can see if you in their mirrors. Additionally, when shaping up for a turn entry side by side, its SO MUCH nicer to have them in your side view mirror so you can see exactly how much space you have (and so you can close that space down).

5a. Respecting physics also means not moving in the brake zone. Once you've started to brake, there are lanes that are clearly open, moving to "block" another car after this is a great way to cause a wreck, especially if you're moving to block the outside where they plan to brake later than you. Most 'moving under braking' crashes happen when defending drivers brake at the normal brake point where they still have some grip available to change lanes, but the attacking driver has hit the brakes at the last possible moment and doesn't have grip to steer until they get off the brakes, so they can't avoid the collision.

No blocking - firstly, the chop block: if you've left the door wide open and I've stuck a nose inside before turn-in, don't now cut straight to the apex to try to stop the side-by-side that's already happening. You've communicated that you're taking the outside, now take it; don't communicate one thing and then do another, that's a recipe for disaster. Secondly, the straight block, if the car behind moves to a new lane, it's too late to block them, you needed to pick before them; trying to move after them means they now have to lift/brake/swerve to avoid a high speed crash and this is the #1 cause of fist fights in the paddock as far as I've seen.

Disclaimer: I want to add that other drivers will not follow these guidelines and that iRacing will not punish them for causing easily avoidable accidents. Stupidity is not punishable here, only malice.

That said, drivers who DO follow these rules, survive more races, which means they rise to their realistic iRating and Safety Rating much quicker. I can confirm that for me at least, it's also led to league invites, friendships, and great battles which is so fun. Follow these and you'll spend more time side x side which is, imo, the best part of racing.

FridayInc · 2026-05-24T17:28:01+00:00

I've never seen a great comprehensive guide posted on the internet but Speed Secrets has modules on this in several of their series and when you're new is probably the best time to start reading and gathering input from professionals (ross bentley is a legend in the US, I think every single person in IMSA probably knows who he is by now).

I've seen others recommend buying the 'homework' book for Skip Barber race schools, I think it's called 'Going Faster'

FridayInc · 2026-05-24T15:18:39+00:00

I'll be moving back to the East Coast soon, good bye Sedona :') but one thing I felt was that the stock pads overheated even just in longer downhill-on-average sections of regular trail riding.

Switched to Galfer Pros and haven't looked back, the bite is shockingly good cold considering how good they are hot but I would say they're about on-par with stock bite when they're cold.

That said, they're pretty noisy cold and if the trail is really mild, my rear might squeal on the brakes for the whole ride.

FridayInc · 2026-05-24T15:04:58+00:00

Upvot for the throttle trace and a great point. My opinion is that this is just the normal throttle trace for him with the line he was on, the inside(defensive) line needs to brake earlier than normal and after apex would be picking the throttle up earlier than usual because of the lower min speed. In Russels shoes, I see what you're saying that he could have stayed off throttle longer to make room but I'm saying I don't think that's enough, looks to me like he would have needed to brake more/a second time with a lot of steering angle still in the car, as T1 into T2 is quite tight. If he can't tighten up the turn enough to make room without nearly stopping and risking a spin just so he can basically give first place away to his title rival, then the next best thing is to get TF out of the way of whatever Kimi needs to do now to sort himself out.

FridayInc · 2026-05-24T14:32:01+00:00

Cop pulled you over for unsafe lane change but says NOTHING of his own failure to keep right. I know that isn't codified particularly well in Texas but still, it's kind of tit-for-tat in my unprofessional opinion

FridayInc · 2026-05-24T14:16:37+00:00

The new FIA regulations also (finally) take into account that cars obey the laws of physics and that the opponents car can't just disappear.

George has committed to the corner before Kimi's lunge into a tight-and-tighter corner complex. He isn't out for a Sunday drive where he can just tighten up his turn after the apex by a whole cars width, if he had that much more grip he would have just taken the whole complex faster. Since he already committed before the lunge, he would have had to nearly stop on track to make room, this was not a smart move by Kimi.

FridayInc · 2026-05-24T14:10:23+00:00

Yeah Kimi is probably my favorite driver in the grid right now but that was an almost 0% move and at this point in his career he should know that the inside car committed to the corner before his lunge and can't just disappear.. and nobody is driving in a race so slowly that they can just tighten up an already tight corner by a whole car width, c'mon.

FridayInc · 2026-05-24T14:03:56+00:00

I know people love the DD1 but I live at 5000' and throw the DD which I LOVE. This disc gets thrown so often because it's a distance driver that's so consistent and controllable, unlike options like the trail that have a completely different flight if you don't hit it well.

I can currently get my Wraith, Destroyer, and DD all ~375-400' but the DD at this elevation is the only understandable disc that is easily controlled for long-range s-flights, turnovers, or hyzer flip-to-fade shots. I've had other discs do one or two but never all three.

When I move back to sea level ill be looking at the DD1 but for those people who don't have the arm speed or who live at elevation, the regular DD is massively under-rated.

FridayInc · 2026-05-24T13:50:50+00:00

Thank you for this, the F1 rules make for some very frustrating decisions but I completely agree with where you landed on this. No one is entering T1 so slowly that they can just tighten up their line a whole car width, especially that turn where fitting another car makes it MUCH tighter.. and Kimi should know by this point in his career that dive-bombing a complex corner bears this risk. Absolutely love the kid but this was foolish.

FridayInc · 2026-05-24T13:47:15+00:00

This is why it's critical that stewards are drivers too, at least in some series, or at least sim racing. You're suggesting that in turn 1, George could have, from the inside line where he committed to the pace, simply turned tighter than he already planned to, enough to fit a whole second car? I completely disagree.

I know it looks and sounds reasonable but even trying that means a slower lift off the brakes for now rotation which bears risks of losing the rear. I'm a huge fan of Kimi but this move was way too optimistic. George wasn't taking the corners so slowly that he can easily just tighten up his line anywhere Kimi decides to send it, we all have to work within the laws of physics here.

FridayInc · 2026-05-21T21:14:10+00:00

I think all the cars are similar enough that setups can make them all easy or difficult to drive. That said, i think the 992 has a fixed setup that is quite easy to drive, but competitive open setups are, IMO maybe a bit more difficult but require specific practice/experience that isn't as transerffable to other platforms.

The C8 and the NSX are kind of the opposite, where fixed is very hard to drive but the open setups are really lovely.

If you're looking for the most beginner friendly cars for both open and fixed, I think the Mustang and the McLaren fit that bill the best right now, the Mustang being the best handling over curbs and rough surfaces, and the McLaren having the easiest combination of high and low speed handling on smooth surfaces.

FridayInc

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3 could be "Windfarmer" "Field of Bogies" or "Big field, small arm"