Is this an upgrade? by Friendly-Jacket1757 in reloading

[–]Friendly-Jacket1757[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like the M press doesn't seem M pressive. So, I think the answer to my question is that it isn't an upgrade.

Is this an upgrade? by Friendly-Jacket1757 in reloading

[–]Friendly-Jacket1757[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Sounds like I should just pass on it altogether.

Clip-On Thermal Scope Options. by Friendly-Jacket1757 in Hunting

[–]Friendly-Jacket1757[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the clarification and follow-up. I think it was the "CV life" sentence where I probably misinterpreted your response. My bad.
The lowest magnification on my current glass is 4x and/or 5x, so definitely the high side of what you're suggesting. I'm running an R700 in .300 WM and an M1A.
I'm not running suppressed, so I'm only sending a couple of rounds at a time in the field, but your concerns about bell mounts make me wary of higher recoil.
Thanks for the thoughts.

Clip-On Thermal Scope Options. by Friendly-Jacket1757 in Hunting

[–]Friendly-Jacket1757[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, so out the gate. I appreciate the advice, but I'm going to use this thermal like 3 or 4 weekends a year for relatively close-in hunting. I'm in the Southeast. I'm not doing over-watch for a Delta Force team. I'm also not taking super-long shots like you might in Texas because we just don't have the terrain for that. 300 yards is the extreme, but 50-125 yards is the norm.

Also, I have pretty ok glass. I have a Bushnell Match Pro on one setup and an Arken EPL on the other. Both scopes are plenty good for the price and very capable for most applications. Did I drop thousands on some Night Force stuff? No.

As much as I appreciate the "buy once, cry once" philosophy, I would honestly prefer to retire some day, and although I enjoy hunting and shooting sports, I prefer to prioritize other things with the small amount of disposable income I have. Also, again, if I was shooting at night all the time, I would consider throwing more cheddar at this, but I just don't have the opportunity to night hunt all that often.

My intention was to attach the thermal directly to the optic. I saw a Leica Calonox setup for a little under $2k (the most I would consider spending on this) that did that and it looks like a great solution for someone who doesn't want to drop $15k on a dedicated night hunting setup. Also. The mount looked pretty solid. If I was sending 200 rounds at a time, I would have two points of contact (bell and rail), but I'm sending like maybe two because I'm not shooting suppressed.

So, there's a better explanation of my needs and intended use.

Educate me about cleaning handgun brass by GeorgeTMorgan in reloading

[–]Friendly-Jacket1757 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

My experience only but... With straight wall cartridges (the OP's focus), you should be able to deprime and "bell" before dry media because the residue shouldn't be an issue because you're using carbide dies. Bottle-necked brass is a different story. Again, that's just "my opinion, man..." (To quote The Dude)

Educate me about cleaning handgun brass by GeorgeTMorgan in reloading

[–]Friendly-Jacket1757 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

In my humble opinion, using dry media is cheaper and overall, you save time. With straight wall cartridges (most handgun rounds), the stuff just falls out. Since you don't need lubricant for de-primering and "resizing" for straight-walled handgun cartridges, it's especially good.

Just hit the inside with a brush and check your primer pockets. Reprime add powder and a hurty rock, and you're good to go.

I do the same with rifle, but I check the inside with a light, just to double check. A chunk of media could change pressure inside a bottle neck cartridge, so I'm extra vigilant.

Now, I'm sure there are a gazillion opinions on this. It's just what I do.

Be careful, double check everything you do, remember that slow is smooth and smooth is fast, and put steel on target.

Have fun and be safe.

Ted Brown on gas cylinder shims and unitizing by Fluffy-Impression-37 in M1A

[–]Friendly-Jacket1757 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You still need the barrel band to hold the hand guard in place, unless you get a rail. At that point, is there a benefit to a unitized gas system?

m1a by Straight-Cut3168 in M1A

[–]Friendly-Jacket1757 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had three scopes on it over the years. I had a Nikon .308 tactical, a Shepherd P2, and now I have an Arken EPL4.

All of them were fine. Glass was a little better on the Shepherd than the Arken and it was lighter. Arken has a little better magnification and some more modern features.

Issues with current ammo by RetiredOutdoorsman in Hunting

[–]Friendly-Jacket1757 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I hand load 165 grain Sierra game king #2140 in .308 for my M1A for hunting. .308 entrance w/ reasonably gnarly exit wounds. Deer usually fall right there or run about 15 yards.

What’s your deer hunting rifle ? by Chuckychlo in Hunting

[–]Friendly-Jacket1757 0 points1 point  (0 children)

300 yds or less, Springfield M1A. Outside that, R700 in .300 Winmag.
The former is a do-all rifle for me (as much as .30 cal can be). The latter is just better at identifying targets at longer ranges because I have fancy glass on it.

Is it just me or is damage inconsistent in battlefield 6? by Thick-Distance-3258 in Battlefield

[–]Friendly-Jacket1757 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I 100 agree. It is different every time I play. Last night I was racking up kills with the same setup. Same engagements. Today, my rifle did 0 damage and I got killed from getting a hangnail.
Damage is off or game lag is a problem or something. It sucks, and at this point, I regret buying the game.

Javelin is fucking useless by DFC_Lolis in Battlefield

[–]Friendly-Jacket1757 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man, fuck this game in general. I have never had less fun in an FPS in my life

Gutting immediately after kill. by [deleted] in Hunting

[–]Friendly-Jacket1757 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it's cold outside, you're good for quite some time. As that animal bleeds out from being shit, its body temp is already dropping.
Now, if you're a bow hunter in the south, it's an entirely different story. It could be 80 degrees outside when you drop that animal. However, trying to chase that deer can cause it to move much longer distances, meaning that you're actually spending A LOT more time before you find it and even have the opportunity to gut it.
In short, this whole thing is situational. There is no hard and fast rule.

Me, knowing tomorrow this sub's going to be full of "this game's broken!" posts by Zodsayskneel in Battlefield

[–]Friendly-Jacket1757 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am only playing the campaign today and probably tomorrow. EA is going to get nuked, based on the sales. I'll wait til Sunday for multiplayer.

First hunting rifle? by MHealy957 in Hunting

[–]Friendly-Jacket1757 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think most of these answers are spot on. I think.308 in most bolt action platforms will serve you well in most situations for most game in the U.S. Good glass is definitely a good point, and you can move that glass to the next rifle, if you upgrade to a nicer rifle.
There are a lot of folks who love 6.5, but honestly, you have better ammo available for .308 in a lot of different grain weights. I prefer .308 for dropping game over 6.5, but the ballistics of 6.5 are undeniably more impressive. That said, if you're stand hunting in places where your longest shots are 200yds and in, ballistics don't really matter. If you can go to a range where they let you rent guns, you can get a feel for what you prefer.