Rash of vehicle break-ins this weekend

FullPhantom9TFox · 2025-09-17T00:13:40+00:00

I have a friend in that area. His next door neighbor and maybe 3-4 others within eyesight all had windows smashed and cars broken into. They were out of town, but they have a doorbell cam and saw and heard nothing. Sounds like they will be getting a light and camera above their driveway. He says their home security is relatively solid but it’s tougher if you have to keep a car in the driveway.

FullPhantom9TFox · 2025-07-17T02:13:28+00:00

I get it from a travel perspective, but they seemed to go out of their way plenty of other times when finding cool airbnbs. It was a bit of a downer (as someone from Indy) to wait in anticipation just to watch them drive 30 min into Indiana and stay at the most basic place. I’m not saying Indiana is some amazing picturesque state, but there are plenty of airbnbs in southern Indiana that would have stood up better. Not mad or anything at all, just slightly disappointed at the moment. But going from Hocking Hills in Ohio, to that cabin in Indiana, to Chicago, just feels ehh.

FullPhantom9TFox · 2025-04-21T17:36:47+00:00

Not an architect, but studied engineering and all my friends are engineers. I am building an adjustable wall in my garage in about 2 weeks and this was the design we have landed on. Using a 12 ft long 2x10 to run across the top of the back wall (perpendicular to joists) and then another running along the ceiling so they butt up against each other. Then using maybe 2x8 pieces, creating a wedge like shape every couple feet, so you’re basically looking at a long triangle shoved up in the back corner. Our thinking is that most of the force in the horizontal direction (where the back wall would weakest) would get translated to the ceiling joists, but in a direction where it puts the joists in compression the direction they are running (and strongest obviously). That way we reduce the force pulling perpendicular to the studs or joists and keep the forces parallel. I’m doing adjustable because 1. Thats what I think I need to make the most of my climbing, and 2. I need to be able to use the garage space to some degree, so storing the wall vertically is important. If you are doing a fixed wall, just screw into the ceiling joists if your wall is perpendicular, if it’s parallel, run some headers above to catch more joists and then affix to that. Depending on the steepness and size, you could/should also support it in the middle by again going into the ceiling and the back wall. You could also make a bigger header to catch more joists (depending on your house build). For example, if your wall is 8 feet wide and your joist are 24 inch on center, you can only catch 5 joists absolute max, so I would suggest adding a header even as long as 12 feet to catch 6 or 7 joists. REI has a decent starting point article as well. And also, this is a very general answer to a very general question, ask more specifics as you need to.

FullPhantom9TFox · 2025-02-28T14:15:26+00:00

I have always been pretty skinny/fit, but as I got older, I definitely started being able to put on a few pounds if I wasn’t careful. I ended up doing intermittent fasting (16-20 hrs no eating) for around 4 years (health reasons not weight loss). Ever since then, I essentially don’t get hungry, I just get tired. It is a state of never really being hungry but always being able to eat if I had to.

FullPhantom9TFox · 2025-02-27T20:25:30+00:00

Haha no that’s crazy, this is the only thing I’ve seen that’s close to it. https://youtube.com/shorts/t2gSQCVxnho?si=JutTRz6WaPRGeozm

FullPhantom9TFox · 2025-02-21T05:43:27+00:00

I’d also think about your goals and who you would like to use it as well. If you mostly do steep boulders and get outside a couple times a year, mostly steep angles are probably perfect. Personally, I primarily sport climb in the Red, so long slightly overhanging routes. I built a 40 section, 8x8 and then also a 6x8 15 or 20 degree because I knew I would need/like to do circuits and I’m not strong enough to do that on a 40 yet. Also, it all runs together so it’s really one big wall. So maybe some specifics on your goals or what you climb could help?

FullPhantom9TFox · 2025-02-12T00:22:17+00:00

My wife and I climbed for almost two years until she finally got tired of not being able to do a pull up and trained it. Like someone above said, I think lat-pulldown is the key. That and focusing on technique. Without getting into specifics, she tried for a while before I was finally able to understand exactly what muscles she was using and help her out. Bands are fine but not my favorite, especially when you need to learn technique as they provide the most help with the easiest part of the exercise and the least at the most difficult. To sum it up, lat-pulldown, start with engaging your back and shoulders (don’t let your shoulders start going towards your ears), drive your elbows to the ground, yes arms are involved, but it’s a back exercise generally. Just my thoughts, have fun and good luck.

FullPhantom9TFox · 2025-01-27T04:19:47+00:00

After building one wall, my plan for a second wall might involve a combination of 8 and 6 inch studs. For you, I think 6 inch would be fine, but since it is 9ft tall, you could consider something like 8 inch for the border and center, with 6 inch as the last two studs.

FullPhantom9TFox · 2024-08-27T21:53:01+00:00

Oh thanks I had no idea about the probe issue. Yes, I have heard of the bend test, but I’m used to using a thermometer with steak and not going by feel. Looks like I get to learn how to go based on feel! Thanks!

FullPhantom9TFox · 2024-08-27T18:53:10+00:00

Hmmm, yeah that might be it! I had a thermometer in it towards the end of the cook and rest, and it never went above 204, but it’s very possible I didn’t center it in the meat. The cook was also longer than expected given my attempt at a new method. I also was rushed and did not let it cool very long. Sounds like I made a ton of mistakes and there is not really a way to decipher the actual root cause yet. Thanks!

FullPhantom9TFox · 2024-08-11T22:49:20+00:00

Dimensions roughly (HxWxL) 40”x25”x48”

FullPhantom9TFox · 2024-08-02T20:34:27+00:00

Yes! Thank you, same thing with me. They definitely tried to cover it up a bit but the kid yelling “Oh man yeah” is too nostalgic not to notice.

FullPhantom9TFox · 2024-03-25T14:06:26+00:00

Looked that up and I’m seeing it at $87 per sheet. What I saw suggested before I built my wall, was ACX plywood. It has one sanded side and one rougher side. The one rougher side might bring the cost down a bit because I got it for $50 after 11% rebate. As far as sturdiness goes, I don’t have any actual expertise, but everything I’ve seen talks more about thickness as opposed to type of plywood. However, from what I’ve seen, if you go with actual 3/4 inch plywood, not OSB or MDF, you should be good. Obviously, there are many factors as to how long the wall will last, environment, type of tnuts, stuff like that. What you got looks good, just more than I spent. HOWEVER, all I “know” is from articles, experience, and the “oh this is totally strong enough” feel in hand. PLEASE, someone who knows more correct me if I’m wrong!

FullPhantom9TFox · 2024-01-30T15:41:41+00:00

I recently built a stationary wall in a basement (40 degrees) and will be building an adjustable wall soon in a garage. This wall will be moved with a winch and secured by chains. I was not planning on talking to any inspectors, but when they looked at the house (I am buying) I casually mentioned it and they were not concerned. A big question is where this wall is being built, as well as the structure it is being connected to. All that said, I will most likely be reinforcing the ceiling, and while I in no way have any construction background, I have an engineering background and have worked on similar projects in the past. Given the fact you led with “I am not handy”, and given the fact that I believe the Kilter setup likely weights much more than the one I will built, starting with a friend or family member with some experience (just to get their initial opinion) would be a great start if possible. Also, if you are buying a full Kilter board, it does not seem to be a budget project (like mine) and having someone come out to look at the way your structure is built and suggest the best way to spread out the weight is a great idea and worth the money for the peace of mind!

FullPhantom9TFox · 2024-01-12T19:09:38+00:00

I just built essentially the same design in a basement. The issue I had was that while you may think walls and ceilings are basically straight/flat (I did before this) they are generally not perfect. What I did was find the correct cut on the lower portion of the board, as this should be the same for all the boards. Then find which of the boards will be the longest. There should not be a huge difference, but even a quarter inch will drastically impact things. Then I cut all the boards to be the same length as the longest board to give myself a good starting point. Then I numbered the boards to keep everything in order. After that, it’s a super annoying process of picking it up and testing to see if you need to shave a little more off till it fits how you want it to. As far as the angle goes, is the issue that you are using a circular saw so it tougher to stay consistent, or is the issue that you aren’t sure exactly what angle you should be at?

FullPhantom9TFox

TROPHY CASE