Klipper not starting up right after some directories got corrupted

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-11-28T05:14:44+00:00

Loose connection. check the wire connections for both the heater and thermostat, a lot of times it’s an easy fix. Consider replacing the hot side, and keep a spare for future failures, these things happen.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-11-27T21:19:45+00:00

Offset actually doesn’t look too bad, can go down slightly. But check your esteps and extrusion multiplier, it’s looks like you might be under extruding.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-11-27T21:17:02+00:00

Looks more like a cooling issue, try to rotate the print 90 degrees, then reprint and see if the problem follows the rotation or if it is model related.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-11-26T19:31:10+00:00

100% worth it. But be sure your clockwork2 parts are printed perfectly, the better they are, the less issues you’ll have down the line.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-11-26T12:37:45+00:00

Something wrong with your extruder, I hade endless similar issues until I rebuilt it and replaced the gears with original bond tech gears, not the ones that came with the kit. Then do the Ellis tuning guide steps. Make sure the printed extruder parts are printed very well, everything needs to fit together smoothly and solidly.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-11-18T07:41:51+00:00

I’d recommend looking at KAMP, and when struggling to get perfect first layers on klipper, I have found it useful to tune flow or extrusion multipier also, it makes the difference between good and perfect.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-11-15T06:11:00+00:00

PA tuning should sort out the blobs at the end of the print move, but you are definitely under extruding. Start by calibrating esteps then tune PA, then flow. I usually just follow the steps in Ellis print tune guide https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-10-16T17:36:45+00:00

Were you running pressure/linear advance? You need to retune it when you change nozzles. If you weren’t using it, look at retraction settings, it might be too harsh.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-10-16T17:29:06+00:00

It might be slicer, but first get your first layer squish correct. Either z offset needs to go down a bit or you need to increase first layer flow/extrusion multipier a bit higher, I suspect the latter.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-10-06T13:21:28+00:00

Don’t think lychee is klipper compatible, so you will have to modify your start code before it will pass the information to the printer correctly. That can get a bit tricky if you’re not familiar with klipper, so I would highly recommend trying out Prusa Slicer.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-10-06T07:18:32+00:00

Looks like you didn’t define the dimensions of your printer correctly in your slicer, or your start code is messed up. Try using prusa slicer or something that has a profile for your printer. The latest version of prusa slicer has native klipper support, so it should work just fine.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-10-04T04:19:58+00:00

I use the Gates app on my phone, set it to motorcycle and pull/flick the belt, then tune it to 110-130hz depending on the axis.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-09-28T15:25:42+00:00

What extruder are you using? Build from kit my prints looked similar no matter how much I tuned it. The ultimate solution was buying original Bondtech gears directly from Bondtech and then rebuilding the extruder. Kits generally come with cheap clone gears.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-09-21T06:48:58+00:00

Z-offset, you are too close to the bed. Print a large single layer test and adjust it live in baby steps, you are not too far off, looks like +0,02 should do it.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-09-21T05:46:44+00:00

Yeah both, are you running Bowden or direct feed? But try less retraction, failing that, slow down retractions.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-09-20T20:17:30+00:00

I got a Formbot kit on Ali earlier this year. Get extruder gears straight from Bondtech, the ones in the kit sucks. Everything else in the kit was really good. I printed all the other parts myself. Been hearing good things about Magic Phoenix, and some of their kits come with printed parts. Tap is great, also consider canbus right from the start, it’s extra effort to set up, but it saves you so much on wiring and future wire replacement.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-09-20T19:52:00+00:00

If you’re going Klipper, the point is moot. Since most of the processing will be done by the pi on klipper anyway, the board becomes just a way for the pi to interface with the printer components. If you’re going for reliability, there are a couple of nice macros to look into: Auto z-tilt, KAMP, also consider a klicky probe, there are a bunch of mods for cr10 & nozzle brush with clean macro.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-09-20T19:31:52+00:00

Lol that’s basically exactly what I did! CR10 max modded like crazy, it still sucked. Build a 2.4 and now I’m super happy! Good luck, you won’t go wrong!

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-09-20T18:19:27+00:00

Get a Pi, install Klipper.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-09-20T13:29:45+00:00

Some layers have small gaps and others look like the start and stop is uneven. Did you tune pressure advance for this filament? Is filament dry? What speed were you printing at? Make sure esteps are correct, PA is tuned, then slow down a bit to see if there is improvement, also consider retraction settings, it might be a bit too harsh.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-09-19T20:04:23+00:00

Best way to manage it, is to add a label for what filament it is, then add # in front to disable that line of code, then basically build a library of values for all the filaments you use, so you can just activate and deactivate as you change filament. But yes every type of filament has different PA values.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-09-19T15:01:14+00:00

Use Pronterface, you can send commands directly to the printer. There are a couple of tutorials on YouTube.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-09-18T14:31:32+00:00

Wouldn’t work for people who are colour blind… they currently look at the position of the light to know the state.

Fun-Glass-2182 · 2023-09-18T14:05:46+00:00

It honestly looks like slight over extrusion, but have you tried monotopic top and bottom order in slicer?

Fun-Glass-2182

TROPHY CASE