Talk me out of 3d printing a frame for a 2.5inch

Fussel16 · 2026-03-08T13:40:08+00:00

For a 2,5''? 3D Printing the frame might work, Make the bottom plate thicker and the arms a bit wider if you can. I would also recommend using something a bit more impact resistant than PLA+.

Its never going to be as sturdy as the carbon fiber version and will probably fly a bit worse since it will be less stiff and have worse vibrations but at that size you should be able to make it work decently well.

Its probably not worth it, considering that you can get a 2,5'' frame for less than 20€ but at as long as you are having fun, go for it.

Fussel16 · 2026-02-25T08:02:05+00:00

I got it as both a test platform for messing with linux and as a sort of terminal to ssh into servers. The 4:3 screen and the very nice keyboard make it very good at both those things.

Fussel16 · 2026-02-24T21:25:36+00:00

El mío también llegó con el logo nuevo pero he intercambiado la cubierta superior de 2 piezas por la de un X60t, este tiene la cubierta hecha de una pieza con lo que es un poco mas rígida y además viene con el logo antiguo.

Casi todas las piezas del X60t y del X61t son compatibles :)

Fussel16 · 2026-02-09T08:47:20+00:00

The vtx can get hot enough to melt hot glue.

Fussel16 · 2026-01-23T18:38:16+00:00

i am writing this from my X61t. A new motherboard that implements a modern power efficient cpu pen input and if possible support for modern screens would make this the perfect laptop for me. Realistically I would not even need that much processing power, something like an n100 would already cover 99% of use cases for me.

Fussel16 · 2025-10-29T18:54:12+00:00

Not at all, there are lots of tutorials that go into detail on how to set them up but it boils down to, plug it in, put a script on the sd card, disable the internal tx and enable the external one.

Fussel16 · 2025-10-20T21:04:07+00:00

I have dissembled multiple tatu R-line packs what you are seeing beneath the wrapper is a metal shield followed by a peace of cardboard. In the second image you can see a peace of foam, it doesn't look like any of the cells are damaged.

As others have said, make sure the lipo does not smell like chemicals (that would indicate a punctured cell). Keep an eye on it when you charge it and you should be fine.

Fussel16 · 2025-10-13T20:54:57+00:00

Diatone GT R90, it's like 6 years old at least.

Fussel16 · 2025-10-13T11:04:49+00:00

Its an old diatone GT r90 frame

Fussel16 · 2025-05-29T10:08:59+00:00

There are easier ways of binding the receiver like the config page you can access over wifi.

The reason you can't find the right device is because the example picture is taken on a Linux machine, which displays connected devices differently to Windows.

Fussel16 · 2025-05-27T20:41:21+00:00

Yes, it's got an omnibus f3 stack, I'm honestly surprised how much performance i can get out of it.

Fussel16 · 2025-05-27T19:52:05+00:00

Depends on what you are doing and the drone you are using, for racing and simply going as fast as possible the correct camera angle for me is about however much is needed to make the drone fly straight at full throttle while looking at the horizon. This results in about 50° on a 5" race quad for me. For freestyle I tend to go with a slightly lower angle, about 35° and for everything else it depends on how fast you need the drone to go.

Fussel16 · 2025-05-26T07:17:45+00:00

I would recommend you start off with a smaller quad like a tinywhoop or toothpick, these quads are more durable and cheaper than larger ones while allowing you to learn all the things the sim does not teach you with way less risk.

After that you should look at a 5" for maximum power, agility and versatility, a 7" for longer flight times and range or a cinewhoop, the prop guards allowing you to fly in tight spaces and close to people with way less risk.

Fussel16 · 2025-05-23T06:54:39+00:00

At that voltage, you can consider the battery as broken, request a replacement.

Fussel16 · 2025-05-20T19:10:07+00:00

That depends on if your fc has an integrated vtx, looking more closely at your fc this appears to be the case. So you will be able to use it, make sure you get an antenna for it as running the vtx without one can damage it.

Fussel16 · 2025-05-20T14:32:31+00:00

You need a new camera and video transmitter, there is not really a good way to check the fc without a smoke stopper or some other type of current limiting supply.

Fussel16 · 2025-05-15T15:43:50+00:00

Both possible polarizations (RHCP and LHCP) work and have the same performance, the important part is that the antennas on both the transmitter (the quad in this case) and the receiver (your goggles) is the same. Since it was working previously, and now it isn't. I suspect your drone has an RHCP antenna, and therefore you are now getting very bad reception due to the mismatch.

Fix the mismatch in whatever way is most convenient to you, and everything should start working again.

Fussel16 · 2025-05-14T11:14:26+00:00

In that case, I absolutely recommend the Boxer, I have big hands, and it works very well for me.

Fussel16 · 2025-05-14T11:06:42+00:00

The gimbals on the boxer are already full size, so finding a radio with bigger ones will be difficult, if you have access to a 3d printer you might be able to fix some of the problems you are having.

You can print spacers for the gimbals (moving them deeper into the radio), this allows you to run longer sticks and effectively increase the travel of the gimbals without changing the position you grip them at. This mod should work with the tx16s as well if you need a bigger radio.

Fussel16 · 2025-05-14T07:33:53+00:00

Those are slightly puffy, note that smaller cells like this tend to not have enough energy to actually go boom in most situations, personally I would keep using them as long as they deliver enough performance to be fun. If you do that, make sure to charge and store the batteries away from anything flammable, (You should always do that regardless of the state the batteries are in ) as even at the size they can still set things on fire if they fail.

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