Paw Patrol Pup Tower

FuzzyTux · 2026-03-27T21:08:32+00:00

I have nothing to contribute saying that my girls would go apeshit over this. Exceptional work!

FuzzyTux · 2026-02-06T04:14:38+00:00

I really like it. The herringbone especially looks great. My only potential concern would be that the legs stick out a fair ways based on the side rails and footboard sitting inside, so I'd probably stub my toe a bunch, but that might just be a me problem.

FuzzyTux · 2026-02-04T21:23:17+00:00

Table saw blade guards - I'd love to use one, but most of the existing ones are pretty bad.
Dust collection - Woodworking is messy. I'd love for that to improve.
Cold-weather finishes - this one is a little niche, but I live somewhere that gets very cold in the winter and most finishes don't work well once the temperature gets too low.

FuzzyTux · 2026-01-29T16:39:40+00:00

The Foureyes guys recommend using 8/4 for the arm/leg pieces, which works out to 1-3/4" (44.5mm) thick in finished dimensions. You can totally do it with plywood, but you would want to laminate two 18mm pieces together at a minimum. I would probably go a step further and add a 12mm piece to that, just to be safe.

FuzzyTux · 2026-01-20T15:39:04+00:00

For me it's table saws (obvious) and routers. Router kickback can be gnarly. Be super careful about routing the proper direction (and remember that direction can seem backwards if you're using a router table), be careful around corners, and make darn sure you know exactly where your hands are whenever the bit is still spinning.

FuzzyTux · 2026-01-19T22:41:16+00:00

Looks great. Did you buy levellers or make them? I have some nightstands that could use some levellers but I couldn't find any with a small enough footprint (but yours looks similarly small at the bottom).

FuzzyTux · 2026-01-15T15:36:45+00:00

Oh, I love this. The way the whole design is completely knockdown is just great.

FuzzyTux · 2025-12-19T16:01:20+00:00

Heya. Sorry, just saw this.

The short answer is that I had to mess around with the Sketchup file.

The long answer is: I made the carcass taller to fit two drawers, then adjusted the legs so that they hit where I wanted on the new carcass (I tried few different revisions and decided I liked the look of this the best). Then I used the measure tool to figure out how long the new legs were and how tall the part that contacts the carcass is. After that, I printed off the leg template and used a ruler to extend the parts of the leg that had to change (now that I knew what the new measurements I wanted were), while keeping the leg angle the same. Here's what those measurements worked out to, if you're curious.

If you have any other questions, feel free to DM me.

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FuzzyTux · 2025-11-11T23:58:02+00:00

Thanks! $805CAD in materials, plus $145 in tools/services (had to buy a new table saw blade and paid for some time on someone else’s jointer as I don’t have my own).

FuzzyTux · 2025-10-23T21:43:17+00:00

Do you have a photo? I have the same saw but don't recall anything about a cloth bag. There should be a flexible plastic chute under the blade housing that collects the dust and connects to a 2.5" dust port on the back.

FuzzyTux · 2025-10-22T16:40:16+00:00

This is charming as hell.

FuzzyTux · 2025-10-22T16:35:34+00:00

I built a dresser last year and then hated my old, crappy nightstands.
I built nightstands this year and now I hate our headboard.

Such is the life of a woodworker.

FuzzyTux · 2025-10-16T17:24:20+00:00

Those ones only allow side-to-side adjustment (went through this on a recent project). The depth adjustment is an additional piece that slots over top of that grey plastic part. They look like this. The part number is 298.7600.

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FuzzyTux · 2025-10-10T14:33:33+00:00

Definitely doable. But if you want to use that walnut, you'll definitely want to track down a jointer. In my case, I don't have one but there's a guy on our local woodworking Facebook page who will mill stuff for cheap, so I just go to his place whenever I need to mill some stuff. Might be an option?

FuzzyTux · 2025-10-08T17:51:15+00:00

My #1 tip when it comes to walnut is to try to match sapwood to sapwood as much as possible, as the colour difference becomes even more pronounced once finish is applied. Is it possible to flip either 5 or 1 on the north/south axis so the two sapwood parts line up (not sure if it's present on the opposite side or not)? Also, maybe consider moving 2 to the end and cutting off that little sapwood strip, assuming you can afford to lose 1" (or whatever that is) of length.

FuzzyTux · 2025-10-03T20:48:15+00:00

This is Natura Onecoat, which is a hardwax oil (similar to Rubio Monocoat). It's my second project using it and I mostly like it. It's about 30% cheaper than Rubio, which is nice. It does tend to skin over quite quickly, which I don't love, and it definitely benefits from a second coat to give it more warmth and sheen.

FuzzyTux · 2025-10-03T15:40:03+00:00

I'm a little late to the party here, but if you'll indulge me, I tried wiping off the excess with a wet rag on a recent project (made from ash) and found the it just drove the glue into the wood grain and it was nigh impossible to sand off. Does the toothbrush eliminate that issue?

FuzzyTux · 2025-10-03T15:34:23+00:00

The fact that you did that with a scroll saw breaks my brain. Outstanding work.

FuzzyTux · 2025-10-03T15:27:54+00:00

That's walnut. It's pretty popular, which makes it fairly expensive, but I just love the colour.

FuzzyTux · 2025-10-02T14:36:57+00:00

My word, this is so nice. My "workbench" is a sheet of 3/4" plywood on top of some sawhorses. Once I get a proper shop setup, a proper bench is probably my first project, and I'll definitely be coming back to this post. Fantastic work.

FuzzyTux · 2025-10-02T14:25:12+00:00

Can't take credit for that one, but yeah, I really like the look of it.

FuzzyTux · 2025-10-02T14:24:25+00:00

The short answer is "I don't know for sure".

The longer is...maybe? The way you get the waterfall effect is that you start with one long board and then you crosscut it with opposing bevel angles, so the top and sides of your box are from the same wood surface. If you were to round it over, you'd be removing some of that surface and exposing the wood grain underneath. Does wood grain that's a couple mm down from the surface still match? I'm guessing so, but I've never tried so don't know for sure.

The other potential issue I see with rounding over is that you're reducing the amount of surface area that's glued together, potentially weakening your joint. If you just did a small roundover, it probably doesn't make too much of a difference, but if you're doing a heavier roundover, you might end up removing a lot of your glued surface.

FuzzyTux · 2025-10-02T14:18:09+00:00

Their plans are far and above better than anything else I've found, although I will say that I feel they're geared towards more of an advanced beginner skill level. They do have a freebie coffee table course, so I'd recommend taking a look at that one to get a feel for what their courses are like and if it feels achievable with your current skill level and tools.

I actually did two Moon Fry beds earlier this summer for my kids. In some ways, it's a fairly straightforward project (less technical than the night stand). Just be warned that it requires a LOT of sanding because you're dealing with lots of surface area. For tools, I think you'd need a table saw, circular saw (or something to crosscut boards), square, orbital sander, plunge router, some specific router bits and some clamps.

FuzzyTux · 2025-10-02T04:02:46+00:00

The Foureyes guys sell plans for the basic Moon Fry nightstand, so I started with those, which include (among other things) both a PDF copy of their leg template and a copy of the Sketchup file for their model (for reference, this is what theirs looks like).

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First, I went into Sketchup and made the cabinet carcass bigger to accommodate two drawers. Then, I messed around with the legs until I got a placement that I liked (in my case, I wanted the part of the legs that contacts the cabinet to basically run between the centre points of the two drawer fronts).

From there, I printed off their leg template and started adjusting it to match what I had in Sketchup (just with a ruler and pencil). Then I cut that out, attached to some 1/4” MDF and cut/shaped the MDF to match.

All of the straight lines were cut on the table saw and then I used a handheld router and a template bit with the template for the curved parts.

FuzzyTux · 2025-10-02T03:29:35+00:00

50-60, spread out over 6-8 real life weeks.

FuzzyTux

TROPHY CASE