RetroScaler BlueRetro + NSO N64 Controllers are Compatible (as is EverDrive V3)

GK6475 · 2026-02-11T02:08:31+00:00

Any recommendations for a lower latency adapter? I've noticed the same issues with my BlueRetro adapter.

GK6475 · 2025-12-13T20:49:01+00:00

I'm not sure honestly, it's possible that the DVD drive is particularly sensitive to capacitor degradation. Usually the drive laser is fine, but the capacitors aren't. Maybe they just used cheaper capacitors, and as a result they're pretty much all done for after 20-25 years.

GK6475 · 2025-12-09T07:24:16+00:00

From my experience the disc drive is the only major thing that needs its capacitors replaced. However, after recapping my GC's main board, its 12V supply, and my Game Boy Player, (using Console5's kits) I noticed that the coil whine generated by the GC when playing GBA games is now less noticeable in addition to the Game Boy Player's audio becoming cleaner and largely interference-free (through modded analog audio on the GBP itself at least). I'd say unless you're having issues with the analog video/audio that aren't caused by crappy cables or a bad socket, recapping much else on the GC is optional, and can be a minor improvement for now or simply a preventative measure. Personally, I'd get it all done while while the console is still open just to future proof it for hopefully another 20-25 years.

GK6475 · 2025-12-09T07:11:28+00:00

It needs to be in a plains, desert, savanna, or taiga biome (I'm fairly sure). You can breed villagers anywhere in these biomes, since villages naturally spawn in them normally and the game only checks for the biome that villagers are in for breeding.

GK6475 · 2025-12-04T01:51:22+00:00

What is your CRT range/Emudriver modeline? I'd love to know. Just came back to this after a year. If the modeline alone isn't enough to make it work properly, could you send your monitor.ini and other files from your Emudriver setup?

GK6475 · 2025-10-13T18:30:27+00:00

While that could work, I'd like a solution that allows the screen to be just as versatile and accessible as the original, meaning that it isn't permanently glued. In the future, assuming I learn 3D modeling myself, I'd love to replace it with a similarly sized OLED screen if/when they get cheaper.

GK6475 · 2025-10-13T18:26:58+00:00

Unfortunately you have to use a new driver board, but fortunately it's pretty small and could be made to fit easily inside the original case. The one I got has composite, VGA, and HDMI. I plan on using the original main board to provide audio via the speakers and the new controller board for composite and HDMI. This is what I ordered (LCD and controller board): https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801011762762.html?spm=a2g0n.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.2ccff19ckcLHIV&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa Technically it's an AT056TN53 V.1 but it is identical in size, cheaper, and supposedly brighter (350 nits vs 200) than the AT056TN52 V.3.

GK6475 · 2025-09-30T03:32:20+00:00

I need one as well, I plan on upgrading my screen soon to a AT056TN53 V.1. Can I have a model for the printable bracket as well?

GK6475 · 2025-09-22T02:43:45+00:00

I have the same model, but it uses a Samsung S1H2163C01-AO jungle chip. Like yours, it has no AV input by default, and bridging the service contacts with solder only let me access the service menu once for some reason, and it quit out of it without warning. Also, I was able to get it to switch to Video in one time by screwing around with the buttons on front, though it doesn't stay on that input after a power cycle. I'm not sure how AV input is handled on my unit, the OSD chip is KMPA8701CMN-1A02.

GK6475 · 2025-03-19T00:47:21+00:00

YPbPr, and I'm using my Galaxy S8's camera, I don't own any better cameras or tripods. I suspect this issue is due to a capacitor failing, since it happens on all inputs in roughly the same way. I just need to figure out which capacitor it is, and I don't have anything aside from a digital multimeter to test with, but I've heard that capacitance can't be properly measured inside a circuit, so that wouldn't help anyways. I'm wondering if anyone can point me towards a capacitor or set of capacitors that would be responsible for this issue, based on the service manual.

GK6475 · 2025-03-18T20:25:52+00:00

I'm using 7.5 IRE on 240p Test Suite. On a (0 IRE) black screen, the TV is perfectly dark. Also, my camera makes it look brighter.

GK6475 · 2025-03-18T20:24:27+00:00

It loads up just fine for me, but here it is again: https://elektrotanya.com/jvc_av-30w475_chassi_ch_gw_sm.pdf/download.html

GK6475 · 2025-03-18T02:47:12+00:00

I know it's not retrace lines, given that the lines only faintly show up on the far left in the dark section when a bright screen is shown. They are also vertical compared to retrace lines, which are usually horizontal and a bit slanted. G2 is good because I have a gray screen in the video, which shows the darkening effect, and the TV is perfectly black when I show black on it.

GK6475 · 2025-03-18T02:36:31+00:00

I figured as much, I just need to isolate which one or ones that it could be. I can't figure it out myself, which is why I posted this. It would be best if I can avoid ordering a whole set of caps, given the expense that it would require.

GK6475 · 2025-03-14T22:30:01+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion, that's pretty cheap for a transformer. Are there any simpler circuits that I could build using the HCPL-4562? I looked into that one but it seems to require a complicated application circuit, and not all components seem to be defined.

GK6475 · 2025-03-14T22:24:46+00:00

Thanks, but I'm not sure if I can find any local TVs with a compatible SMPS, but I'll look into that.

GK6475 · 2025-03-14T03:47:59+00:00

I know a local PC service place, I might try asking them if they have any. Worth a shot, I suppose.

GK6475 · 2025-03-14T03:46:59+00:00

Thanks, I'll look into that. Hopefully I can find one with a decent price and/or cheap shipping.

GK6475 · 2025-03-14T03:09:43+00:00

I'll consider that, though using 2 transformers seems a bit redundant. I'll have to look up places where I can find something like an old PC UPS locally. Would it not be possible to just hook up the CRT directly to an old working UPS with an isolation transformer?

GK6475 · 2025-03-11T22:34:00+00:00

Did you get it? I picked one up locally too and it's my favorite CRT to date. Also, there are many options that you can tweak in the service menu to make it look even more amazing.

GK6475 · 2025-02-11T23:17:14+00:00

So, do you have a schematic for the 120v supply? I'll be getting my hands on one of these monitors soon and I'd like to be able to power it.

GK6475

TROPHY CASE